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  • LHS Sterncrest 14K 39 Billiard Restoration

    April 29th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    If Vincent van Gogh were to have been a pipe carver this pipe may have been carved to compliment his Starry Night painting.  The carved swirls remind me of van Gogh’s famous stars.  Maybe that is what struck me about this piece or maybe it was the 14 karat solid gold band.  With gold breaking $3500 per ounce, I suppose more folks are going to be hunting for the solid gold work on all kinds of old pieces.  This pipe was picked up from an antique dealer in Beverly, Massachusetts last month and got itself bumped up in the queue due it’s amazing carving.  Below are some photos of the pipe as it appeared upon arrival before work started.

    Pretty cool, right?  The bone tenon extension was a real bonus as those typically indicate a higher level of quality and workmanship.  The gold band was tarnished.  This was weird because gold doesn’t tarnish, perhaps the copper and silver which were added to the gold all settled on the surface (metallurgical humor, there).  The pipe was in very good condition and did not look like it would need much more than a thorough cleaning and a bit of stem work, tooth dent removal and better fitting of the tenon with the mortise.  Speaking of the stem, it did not appear to be vulcanite but rather a hard plastic.  Another weirdism.

    Background

    I began the research for LHS with pipephil.eu.  There I found the following short piece on the company along with many examples of stampings matching the stamping from this pipe.:

    LHS — Pipes : Logos & Markings

    The next stop on the research train was at pipedia.org.  There I found greater detail regarding the company and it’s founders, brothers Ludwig and Hugo Stern.   

    “Ludwig Stern, a successful pipe manufacturer since 1893 and closing around 1960, reorganized his company along with his brother Hugo Stern, opening a factory in 1911. They named the company L&H Stern Smoking Pipes & Holders. The newly formed company was moved into a six story building on the corner of Pearl and Waters street Brooklyn, NY.

    Notes from Geyer’s Stationer

    Thoroughly organized in all departments, and housed in a well-lighted and ventilated modern office and manufacturing building, the firm of L&H Stern Inc. is located near the first arch of the Manhattan bridge, near the river and convenient to the Brooklyn bridge, which makes it accessible from all the hotels in the metropolis for visiting buyers. The structure is six stories with a seventeen-foot basement, with light on three sides through prismatic glass windows, the first floor being seven feet above the sidewalk. Light enters the upper floors from all four sides.

    L&H Stern is known to every important wholesaler and jobber in the country. LHS manufactures a complete line of briar pipes. Ginmetto wood pipes are also made, as well as Redmanol goods, the man-made amber. The first substitute for amber. Everything, even down to the sterling silver and other metal trimmings are made under one roof.” (LHS – Pipedia).

    The pipephil.eu site did have a great set of photographs of the LHS Brooklyn factory and they can be seen below.

    (Document: L&H Stern factory — Pipes : Logos & Markings –)

    (Document: L&H Stern factory — Pipes : Logos & Markings –)

    (Document: L&H Stern factory — Pipes : Logos & Markings –)

    (Document: L&H Stern factory — Pipes : Logos & Markings –)

    I still find it hard to imagine that New York City was a manufacturing hub.  In my mind NYC is a place of offices and apartments housing people all like Jerry Seinfeld, George Costanza, Elain Benes, Cramer and Newman.  As you may have guessed, I have never been to NYC.

    This Sterncrest 14k. according to the quality guide from pipephil.eu, was LHS’s second highest quality line.

    (Document: LHS Grading — Pipes : Logos & Markings –).  What would today’s equivalent of $7.50 in 1944 money?  According to the US Bureau of Labor Statistics,

    (CPI Inflation Calculator).  A $138 pipe is not considered to be a “highend” pipe by today’s standards but more in line with a standard Savinelli or Peterson factory made base pipe.  The threaded bone tenon and sold gold band lead me to think that the Consumer Price Index may be missing exact relevance or that quality standards of today are much different than that of 1944.  If you are curious, I used http://coinapps.com/gold/gram/calculator/ to value the 0.4 g 14K gold band.  The below is a screen shot using the gold value as of 4/25/2025:

    The Restoration

    The Starry Night Sterncrest, the pipe’s new nickname (do you like it?) made it to the workbench and a cleaned denim piece.

    I disassembled the pipe.  I was slightly surprised with the ease that the bone tenon unscrewed from the stem.  Frequently these old bone tenon extensions become fused to their stems and require their destruction to remove.

    The bone goes from white to nearly black with smoking.  This one was a uniform dark brown.

    The shank cleaning was done with 95% ethyl alcohol, cotton swabs, pipe cleaners and a dental scraper.

    The reaming tools were gathered.

    The PipNet reamer and the #1 and #2 blades did most of the work removing the cake from the tobacco chamber.

    The chamber looked good and was then sanded with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel.

    After sanding to bare briar the chamber was inspected for any damage due to heat or charring.  None was observed.

    I took the stummel to the sink for a scrubbing with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon scrub brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    Returning to the workbench the grooves in the carvings still looked rough as if partly filled with dirt and grime.

    The rim also looked like the carvings retained some lava, smoking residue.

    The rim was scrubbed with a brass rush dipped in ethyl alcohol and wiped with a make-up pad.

    I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.  The pad picked up quite a bit of old stain.

    Since the brass brush worked well with the rim, I decided to try scrubbing the carvings with it and ethyl alcohol.  The color is not off in the photo below.  My fingers were stained with the stain from the stummel.  What I had thought was dirt and grime in the grooves was actually accumulated stain.

    The carvings looked better after being scrubbed, wiped and allowed dry.

    I turned my attention to cleaning the airway of the stem.  Again I used ethyl alcohol and bristle pipe cleaners.  The stem was surprisingly clean.

    The same was done with the bone tenon extension.

    I addressed the overly tight fit of the tenon to the mortise by sanding the tenon with a 400 grit sanding sponge.

    Once sanded I applied a light coat of petroleum jelly to the tenon and retried the fit.

    The fit was great with the appropriate tightness.

    I wanted to remove the tarnish from the 14k solid gold band.  It was thin and to reduce the risk of bending it I wanted to polish the band on the shank.  I wrapped the shank in masking tape to protect the briar from discoloration due to the polishing cloth chemicals.

    Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths were used to remove the tarnish from the band.  I have to comment that the smell of this metal polish is a high point of using it.  It has a wonderful aroma.

    The band after polishing was returned to a brilliant gold color.

    The shank, band included, was rewrapped with masking tape again for its protection from sanding.

    Before sanding, I wanted to remove the tooth chatter from the stem.  I was leery of using a lighter to “paint” the stem as I was unfamiliar with this type of stem material and did not know how it would react to flame.  I opted to just file the chatter with a small flat file.

    The area was sanded with 320 and 400 grit sanding sponges.

    The stem was then sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 320-350.  Between each sponge the stem was rubbed with Obsidian Oil and wiped with a paper towel.  After the sanding the stem was taken to the buffer and polished with rouge compound with the rouge wheel then white compound with the white compound wheel.

    I removed the masking tape and wiped the shank with a make-up pad dipped in alcohol to remove any traces of adhesive from the tape.  The stummel was then given a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm worked into the carvings with a soft fiber tooth brush and allowed to sit for an hour.

    The stummel was then hand buffed with an inside out athletic sock to remove excess Restoration Balm.

    I applied Before and After Hard Rubber Balm to the bone tenon extension.  I am sure that Mark Hoover didn’t intend for his balm to be used on bone but the product works amazingly well at preserving vulcanite stems and I figured that it would work equally as well on bone.  I then reassembled the stem.

    The stem and stamping surface were given several coats of carnauba wax at the buffer. Apply carnauba to the carving as they were too deep and would likely accumulate a thick wax coating which would then accumulate dirt. 

    The stummel was waxed with Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax with a baby tooth brush and buffed with a clean flannel buffing wheel. The edge of the wheel was used to work excess wax from the deeper carving grooves while still receiving a protective coating.  I have to say that I also love the smell of this wax.

    The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth further deepening the shine.

    Personally, I think this LHS Sterncrest 14K 39 billiard, AKA: Starry Night Sterncrest, restored very nicely.  The swirling carvings are eye-catching and something not seen on modern production pipes.  The bone tenon extension is also a link to simpler days.  The stem polished up beautifully and both is set apart from the carvings and is accentuated by the gold band.  The light weight of this pipe should make it a fine clencher and the sarving are both pleasant to the eyes and provide a great feel in the hand.  The dimensions of the LHS Sterncrest 14K 39 billiard are:

    Length:  5.68 in./ 144.27 mm.

    Weight:  0.95 oz./ 26.93 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.54 in./  39.12 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.34 in./ 34.04 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.76 in./ 17.78 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.32 in./ 30.48 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover. 

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    Below are some photos of the finished LHS Sterncrest 14K 39 billiard.

  • A James J. Fox Irish Bulldog Restoration

    April 24th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    You know when you see something and the little voice in your head says, “Wait!  There’s something peculiar about that”?  That is exactly what happened when I was perusing eBay and saw this pipe.  I can’t recall if it was the photo or the header, “James J Fox Made in Dublin Ireland Pipe” that caught my eye but one of them gave me a temporary case of whiplash.  Now, we all know what a pipe made in Dublin actually means but what is this James J Fox stamp?  A distant relative of Wileward Ethelbert Coyote, perhaps?  (Wile E. Coyote for those non-cartoon-culture savvy).  Even with less than stellar photographs, I knew I had to lay hands on this lass.  The button was clicked, money sent and the pipe arrived.  Well, it was a bit slower than that but you get the idea.  Upon arrival, I got a good look at the stampings.  Top left, Fox over Special in a flowing script.  This one was faint, not worn, just faint.  The top right shank had MADE IN DUBLIN over IRELAND.  Again the stamp was faint but only in the middle top portion.  Almost as if the stamp was not flat.  The final stamp was on the lower left face of the shank and it read, JAMES J FOX over DUBLIN LONDON.  The photos below show the pipe as it appeared before any work was done.

    This looked like it would be a straightforward restoration with no real obstacles.  Yeah, the stem was oxidized and there was some weird stain on the front left of the bowl but the stem fit was great and the rim indicated that the previous owner took care of this pipe or hadn’t used it extensively.

    Background

    I went directly to the James J. Fox website as the start of the background search.  Here it states the following:

    “We have been trading in fine tobacco and smokers’ accessories from 19 St James’s Street since 1787 and our customers have included discriminating smokers from all walks of life – from commoners to kings. Among them have been Sir Winston Churchill, Oscar Wilde, British and Foreign Royalty, the officer’s mess of famous British regiments, and the leading lights of the stage, film, sport, tv, radio, music and literature.

    Our world famous tobacco business started with Robert Lewis, who began trading fine tobacco in St James’s Street in 1787. James J Fox was formed in Dublin in 1881 and opened its first tobacco shop in London in 1947. Fox acquired the business of Robert Lewis on 14 September 1992, uniting two of the most respected names in the cigar world. Both companies now trade as JJ Fox (St James’s) Ltd and run the cigar departments of Harrods and Selfridges.”  and about their founder, Frederic James Fox (1913-1990)  “Born in 1913, Frederic (Freddie) was the fourth of five children and the youngest of James Fox’s three sons.He found himself in charge of the family business, a single cigar shop on Dublin’s Grafton Street, after the untimely death of his two brothers. Stanley Fox was shot dead by armed thieves thought to be members of the IRA in 1926, while Ronald (Biffy) was missing in action over the Dutch coast in 1942 during an RAF mine laying mission. Freddie, not content with just one shop, took the business from strength to strength. He established a successful import and wholesale business in Ireland alongside the world’s first Duty Free outlet which expanded the retail cigar business into London. He developed numerous brands including Punch Nectares, Bolivar Amado, Hoyo Royal Hunt and La Corona Policromia, and established the Astor Tobacco Company. His enterprising nature also saw Freddie acquire and develop a successful import and wholesale business in the Channel Islands; and he oversaw the origin of the business’s entry into the property markets, developing several high profile office buildings in St Helier, Jersey including Sir Walter Raleigh House on the Esplanade. Freddie Fox died in 1990. He is still sorely missed by his family, friends and colleagues from the cigar industry. Were he to be asked to comment on his career achievements, he might say :

    “Not bad for a beginner.”  We would agree.” (Heritage | Welcome to the History of James J. Fox)

    For a far more complete history of the James J, Fox shops and their history I will refer to Mark Irwi’s Peterson Pipe Notes blog, 157. The James Fox – Peterson Small Batch Lines: An Interview with Yiorgos Manesis (157. The James Fox – Peterson Small Batch Lines: An Interview with Yiorgos Manesis – Peterson Pipe Notes).  Yiorgos Manesis says in Irwins blog, “They used to make their own pipes here, a small factory for a few years. It didn’t last long, and only two or three people worked there. I don’t know if they were turning bowls, or just getting bowls and finishing them here. They were involved in all parts of the tobacco business—they were making pipes, hand-blending their own pipe tobaccos. And Freddie Fox, who was Robert and Stuart Fox’s [the 5th generation owners] grandfather, was a very intelligent, savvy man.” (157. The James Fox – Peterson Small Batch Lines: An Interview with Yiorgos Manesis – Peterson Pipe Notes).  Now is this pipe one of those made by Fox?

    I sent some photos to Mark Irwin asking him what he thought of this pipe soon after it arrived.  His response was, “Boy oh boy! Isn’t this COOL?  Does it look like the Peterson 493 shape to you? It pretty much does to me.  These James Fox / Peterson pipes are really scarce. Yes, please let me know when you run the blog post, as I want to point everyone out to it as well as include at least one of these photos to help them get to your blog.” (Mark Irwin, personal email).  I cannot say that I was terribly familiar with the 493 shape so that is where I went hunting. 

    Mark’s Peterson Pipe Notes provided me with two wonderful posts describing the development of Peterson’s bulldog shapes.  Blogs 388 (1891-1919) and 390 (1920-1947) detail the development of shaps during the years in parentheses.

     “Two years after hostilities ended and bringing our survey of the IFS and Éire eras to its conclusion is the fullest flowering of bulldogs in K&P’s history, before or since: the distributor’s catalog c. 1947. Three squat bulldogs, the 493, 494 and 495, all reintroducing the “Cad” name.  The 170 / 175 and 150 /155 don’t appear to be different shapes, but merely different stems—one saddle, one bent.” 

    (https://petersonpipenotes.org/390-a-visual-history-of-petersons-bulldog-shapes-part-2-from-the-end-of-the-patent-through-the-irish-free-state-and-eire-eras/ highlight added by me).  In examining the James J. Fox and comparing it to the 493 from the diagram above the shape looked very similar.  Mark appeared correct but one thing which struck me was the saddle stem.  The 493 looks to have a saddle that tapers slightly from the shank towards the button.This narrowing is completely absent in the Fox Special, if anything the Fos pipe has a reverse taper.  Using my micrometer I checked the width at the shank, 0.72 (18.4 mm) inches and at the opposite end of the saddle, .74 inches (18.8 mm).  This is far from definitive proof that the pipe was made in the short lived James J. Fox shop but it does make me say, “Hmmm.”

    Though lacking a shape number, the Fox Special must be regarded with some suspicion.  Mark thought it looked like a Peterson 493, and I concur with estimated measurements from the shape charts the dimensions do fit nicely.  The 493 shape existed through the 1970s as evidenced in a chart and description, “This shape chart from Associated Imports point-of-sale brochure leUS pipe smokers know what shapes they might expect in non-System pipes.  Note several rare, currently sought-after shapes by collectors:  the XL02, XL999, XL493s, 124 and 120F.” on page 170 of The Peterson Pipe The Story of Kapp Peterson (Irwin, Mark and Malmberg, Gary.  Briar Works Press. 2018, First Edition, second printing 2021.  Printed in Canada).

    In 1983 Peterson published a point-of-sale catalog, the Peterson-Glass catalog.  I can find no reference to the 493 shape in this catalog, with only the 80S,150 and 999 bulldog or Rhodesian shapes remaining.  (petersonpipenotes.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/Peterson-Glass-Catalog-1978-79-PETERSON-PIPE-NOTES.ORG_.pdfpetersonpipenotes.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/Peterson-Glass-Catalog-1978-79-PETERSON-PIPE-NOTES.ORG_.pdf)

    The final thing I’ll mention here is a listing of a Peterson 493 from the Estates section of smokingpipes.com:

    (https://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/estate/ireland/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=239789)

    So, we are left with little but supposition, assumptions and conjecture, three great words, but hardly a definitive date of birth nor maker for this lovely pipe.  Ath the end of this blog I show the measured dimensions of the Fox Special.  If you compare the dimensions of this pipe to the listing of a Peterson 493 from smokingpipes.com  there remains little doubt of this pipe’s heritage.

    The Restoration

    As usual the pipe was introduced to the workbench with a cleaned denim piece.  I say cleaned because though laundered, stains aplenty remained.

    I began with a quick prep of the stem for a bath in Briarville’s Pipe Stem Oxidation Remover. This product was sent to me by Richard Messineo of Briarville to try.  Again I wish to thank Richard for the chance to test this product.  The stem was lightly sanded with a 400 grit sanding sponge.

    I then cleaned the airway with bristle pipe cleaners dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.

    The stem was submerged in the Briarville solution.  The label instructions say 2-24 hours.  I allowed this stem 13 hours of exposure.

    In the meantime I began reaming the tobacco chamber.The tools of choice were the PipNet, Smoingpipes Low Country Reamer and the General triangular scraper (with the tip ground round). 

    The number 3 blades of the PipNet did the lion’s share of the work with the General coming in for clean-up.

    The tobacco chamber was sanded with 220 sandpaper scraped around a wood dowel.  The chamber appeared free of any heat damage or charring.

    Next came the cleaning of the airway.  This was done with numerous cotton swabs and bristle pipe cleaners both dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol as well as some scraping with a dental scraper.

    The stummel was taken to the sink for a scrubbing with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    Back at the workbench the stummel looked better but the stain at the front right remained.

    A wipe with 95% ethyl alcohol on amake-up pad removed a bit of color, probably old wax and stain.

    The stain persisted.

    As a remede, I thought maybe oxalic acid would bleach the stain.

    I used a saturated solution of oxalic acid applied with a cotton swab on the stain.  The swab assumed an orangish color.

    After the oxalic acid had sat for 30 minutes I returned the stummel to the sink for another scrub with Murphy Oil Soap.  I figured the basic nature of the soap and copious rinsing would neutralize the acid and rinse any remnants.  Once dry the stummel appeared as below.  The stain was vanquished.

    The next day I returned to the stem.  The Briarville Pipe Stem Oxidation Remover is getting darker in color.  I am not sure how many stems this product is able to treat.  I think this was number 3 or 4.

    The stem was removed and was vigorously rubbed with a coarse shop rag.  Below you can see that some of the oxidized vulcanite was removed onto the rag.

    The stem looked much better.

    I scrubbed the stem with Soft Scrub cleanser on make-up pads to remove more of the oxidized vulcanite.

    The stem was then coated with another product, Before and After Hard Rubber Balm.  This product was sent to me from Mark Hoover to try.  Thank you, Mark. I really like this balm for treating vulcanite stems after they have been restored.  It is more viscous than Obsidian Oil and I think it lasts longer than Obsidian Oil in protecting polished stems.

    In preparing the stummel for sanding, I covered the stampings with masking tape.  I prefer to cut slightly irregular pieces of tape for this as they do not give as blocky a look to the unsanded areas under the tape.

    The stummel and stem were united during the sanding to avoid rounding the joint between the two materials at their seam.  The sanding was done with a series of sanding sponges in grits of 400-3500.  Between each sponge the briar was wiped with a make-up pad dipped in alcohol to remove sanding debris.  The stem was rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a dry paper towel between sponges.

    The tape was removed and the pipe micro-meshed with pads 4000-12000.  The above between pad wiping was done as with the sanding except I used Obsidian Oil rather than mineral oil.

    The stem was polished with Before and After Fine followed by Extra Fine Polish.  

    Each was applied by finger then hand buffed using a soft cotton cloth.

    The stummel was then covered with a liberal coat of Before and After Restoration Balm.  I let the balm work its magic for 20 minutes.

    The excess balm was hand buffed with an inside out athletic sock to remove it and reveal the revived briar grain.

    The pipe was then taken to the buffer for several coats of carnauba wax.  I used a fly tying bodkin to remove the xa deposits from the beading around the rim.  The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth further deepening the shine.

    I think this Fox Special turned out very well. This stained spot and stem were the two areas I was most concerned about, both turned out exceptionally well.  The high gloss black vulcanite really accentuates and contrasts the briar grain.  The condition of the rim makes the pipe look like it is a brand new specimen rather than a restored old beauty.  The stampings, though faint, can all be made out and add to the mystery of this pipe provenance.  Peterson product or not, it is a beautiful Irish Lass.

    The dimensions of the James J. Fox, Fox Special are:

    Length:  5.77 in./ 144.53 mm.

    Weight:  1.30 oz./ 51.60 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.55 in./  45.97 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.24 in./ 39.37 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.73 in./ 20.32 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.78 in./ 42.16 mm.

    Below is an image of a Peterson 493 estate pipe:

    (the above image is taken from https://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/estate/ireland/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=239789).

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover. 

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    Below are some photos of the finished Royal Guard 522.

  • A Missouri Meerschaum Freehand Customization

    April 22nd, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    In a previous blog about customizing a Missouri Meerschaum Riverboat Gambler I made the following comment, “Expecting perfection from a new corn cob pipe is kind of like expecting a perfect first date.  Sure it can happen but more often than not the pipe will have flaws typical of cobs like a first date will undoubtedly have awkward, “damn, I should never have said that” moments.” ()  As far as cobs go, this is a rather expensive one Missouri Meerschaum (MM) lists the Freehand at just north of $50 (https://corncobpipe.com/product/freehand-corn-cob-pipe/).  I have to say I was a bit disappointed when I held my new cob for the first time.  The size was impressive and the stem beautiful but the nickel collar was wonky.

    Given the wonkiness was not very much but it was enough to bother me.

    When I tried removing the stem, the shank separated from the cob.

    So now I had a new MM Freehand in two pieces, which I wanted, but not in the way I wanted.  The stem fit was very tight and I was able to liberate the stem from the shank with more force than I thought necessary.  Once separated the wonk was even more pronounced.

    Now given, it was only a couple of degrees off but it bothered me.

    To remedy the stem collar fit I first had to remove the collar.  The glue here was holding fast, unlike the shank…  I used a heat gun to heat the collar and soften the glue.

    The heat worked and the collar was removed.

    Looking at the stem, I wondered why it was so darn tight.  It had been sanded as evident by the sanding marks on the tenon.

    The one side of the tenon looked as if it had been polished to a high gloss.  Weird, is all I could think.  I sanded the tenon with a 400 grit sanding sponge until I got a tightness which I thought more appropriate.

    I looked at the collar wondering why it was not fitting the shank.  It was even in thickness.

    When placed standing upright the stem had a cant to one side.  It is hard to notice in this photo but trust me it was there and annoying.

    Upon close examination of the collar I saw the issue.  There was an inner flange to the collar which was not flush with the outer collar.  Hmm I thought, “how can this be adjusted?”

    I looked through a snuff tin of various parts and scraps from previous restorations and found a solution in true Redneck Merican fashion – a gun and a hammer.  Well not really a gun but a spent .44 Mag case which had donated much of its length for a band at some time.  I thought the brass case could be tapped with a hammer to straighten the flange of the collar.

    It worked.  Although it did take some fine tuning by flipping the collar ofer after adjusting too far.  

    The inner flange was eventually made flush with the outer edge of the collar.

    Now when pressed back onto the shank, the stem stood upright perpendicular to the benchtop.

    The collar was glued in place using brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue).

    Since the shank was no longer fixed to the cob, I thought that I may as well trim the inside tobacco chamber end of the shank.  I know this is not necessary but it was already apart so why not?  I marked the excess shank with a pencil.

    Below is the marked shank removed from the cob.

    I used a cutoff bit in the Dremel rotary tool to cut the end from the shank and smooth it.

    Once reinserted the shank end could be just seen.

    The shank was glued into place using Elmer’s white general purpose glue.  The glue was applied to both surfaces, pressed together tightly and allied to dry for 15 minutes.

    Below is a photo of the mounted shank as it was drying.

    Since I had a few minutes until the glue had dried, I thought, “why not use the new tapered bit from Vermont Freehand to open up the airway in the stem?”  

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance, restorations or customizations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover. 

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    Below are a couple of photos of the finished Missouri Meerschaum Freehand.

  • The Riverboat Gambler with a Forever Stem Customization

    April 17th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    Expecting perfection from a new corn cob pipe is kind of like expecting a perfect first date.  Sure it can happen but more often than not the pipe will have flaws typical of cobs like a first date will undoubtedly have awkward, “damn, I should never have said that” moments.  I recently bought three brand new Missouri Meerschaum Riverboat Gamblers with very pale complections, brass collars and white stems.  

    My thought was to dye the stummels black and make some very sharp looking custom cobs.  Well the thought worked out well for two of the three pipes.  The third pipe had a stem that was cracked at the base of the tenon.  This crack led to a break while trying to remove the stem.  This is not something that I have had occur with a new pipe but I wasn’t too upset by it thinking that this was an excuse to purchase a Forever Stem from Vermont Freehand for the pipe.

    A drywall screw was used to pull the broken tenon from the shank.

    “To the Internet!” was the battle cry.  I chose and ordered a replacement stem from the great options from Vermont Freehand. The shipping was quick and I soon had a replacement stem.  I still wanted to dye the cob and stem black as I was very happy with how the other two Riverboat Gamblers turned out.

    I wanted to maintain the Missouri Meerschaum logo sticker so I covered it with Vallejo Liquid Mask.  This is a quick drying latex that is used to keep paint from areas where it is not wanted.  Once dried it can be easily peeled off.

    The cob and stem were sanded with 320 and 400 grit sanding sponges.  I do not like to go finer than that before dying briar due to my thoughts that finer sanding does not allow the dye to penetrate as well into the wood.  I was not concerned with masking the band at the end of the shank since the brass collar would completely cover it.

    Once the sanding was completed I prepared the dye gear.  This included a cork to plug the tobacco chamber and act as a handle, a lighter for flaming the wet dye, a bend pipe cleaner as an applicator, a paper towel surface cover and the Fiebing’s Leather Dye in black.  I also had a heat gun to heat the cob before applying the dye.

    The cob was briefly heated then painted with the black Fiebing’s Leather Dye.  The first coating was applied and quickly absorbed into the cob and stem.  I tried to flame the stummel but there was just nothing to burn.  

    I applied a second coating of Fiebing’s this time the flaming attempt did work but very briefly.  The pipe was taken to a vise where I clamped it and allowed it to dry overnight.

    The next day I applied a third coating of black dye and set the pipe to dry for two hours.  Once completely dry I wiped/rubbed the cob and stem with a paper towel to remove any of the dye that might come off on a person’s hands while handling it.  I then proceeded to apply a coating of Danish Oil to the cob and stem.  I used a fluffy pipe cleaner to apply the Danish Oil.

    I allowed the Danish oil to dry for about an hour and applied a second coat.  This one was allowed to dry for another hour.

    I peeled the Liquid Mask latex from the logo sticker.

    The mask did exactly what it was supposed to do and kept the dye from coloring the sticker.

    The last steps included giving the pipe a couple of coats of carnauba wax with the buffer followed by a hand buffing with a microfiber cloth.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance, restorations or customizations.If you are interested the two Riverboat Gamblers from the earlier customizations are available.  Feel free to message me in the comments if you would like one of them.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover. 

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    Below are some photos of the finished RIverboat Gambler 2.

    How it looks after one bowl of Prince Albert.  The light interior of the tobacco chamber is now properly colored, as well.

  • A Royal Guard 522 (Stanwell) Restoration

    April 15th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    “That is a cool shape” is what I said to myself when I came across this darling Danish damsel languishing on eBay.  The two photos in the listing were not great, which may have been why there had been little interest in the pipe.  I’ll include one below.

    I made an offer to the seller and it was accepted.  Several days later the Royal Guard made the trip from Shenandoah, Virginia to the wilds of southeast Nebraska.  The stamping on the pipe read “Royal Guard” (in a fancy script) over MADE IN DENMARK on the left shank and 522 on the right shank.  The stem stamping was clear and had an RG overlapping.  Below are some photos of the pipe prior to any work done.

    The Royal Guard looked like it was in very good shape.  The only issues were the lava flows on the rim and the oxidation of the stem.  This looked to be a very relaxing restoration.  I was excited to continue the testing of the new products too:  Before and After Hard Rubber Balm and Briarville’s Stem oxidation Remover.

    Background

    Stanwell was hardly an unknown brand to me but I had not spent a lot of time working on Stanwell pipes.  The last one I had worked on and blogged about was back in June of 2024.  Here is that link if you’d care to read it.  The funny part was that the restored Stanwell from that post was very similar in shape to this pipe.  Below are before photos of both pipes.  Apparently my taste in pipe shapes has not changed much in a year.

    The first place I researched Royal Guard was pipephil.eu.  Here I found a match for the stamping s and the RG stem logo.  The Royal Guard was said to be a “Stanwell seconds”.

    (Roy-Rz — Pipes: Logos & Markings)

    The next leg in the search was to pipedia.org under “Stanwell”.  “During WWII, Danish pipe smokers could no longer buy the English made briar pipes they preferred to smoke. In 1942, because of the unavailability of English pipes and raw briar, Poul Nielsen began making pipes from beech wood for Danish customers. At the time, Poul was managing a company called Kyringe, which made various wood products.  At the end of the war, briar became available again, so Nielsen began importing his own briar and started making briar pipes to compete with the English manufacturers. It must be remembered that in 1948, England was the single great center for pipe making. Therefore, Nielsen changed the name of his pipes to “Stanwell”, which sounded much more like a proper English name than “Nielsen”. He also created the horse drawn carriage logo for its English connotations. He later changed his own last name from Nielsen to Stanwell, a testament to his devotion to the pipes he made. Stanwell’s relationships with Danish pipe makers goes back to Sixten Ivarsson, who is considered the originator of modern Danish pipe making. Ivarsson was commissioned to design Stanwell shapes. In 1969, the factory was moved a town called Borup, just outside of Copenhagen to be closer to Ivarsson.” (Stanwell – Pipedia)

    According to the entry the main part of the information was from a smokingpipes.com article on Stanwell.  So, I went to the original document:  (Stanwell Shapes and Origins | Smokingpipes.com).  I will include this information in its entirety below:

    “Alongside classic English and French pipemakers, Stanwell holds a significant place in pipe history. Due to the briar shortages of WWII, and the chaos that overwhelmed both France and Britain — as well as Italy from where a large quantity of briar was sourced — Danish pipe smokers couldn’t obtain pipes from England, despite preferring such pieces. To fill this void of quality smoking instruments in Denmark, Poul Nielsen began making pipes out of beechwood under the name Kyringe in 1942.

    When the war ended and briar resumed availability, Nielsen transitioned into making briar pipes, joining the market now resurrected with popular English brands. These marques dominated the preferences of pipe smokers, England considered the Mecca of pipemaking, so in 1948, Poul changed his brand name to Stanwell — a more English-sounding name to cater to popular pipe smoking inclinations. He even changed his own surname to Stanwell, cementing his commitment to his pipe making venture and his devotion to crafting quality pipes.

    Stanwell became the first main exporter of Danish pipes, introducing the world to new pipe designs and adding diversity. Unlike most other brands, though, Stanwell fostered relationships with individual Danish artisans — most notably Sixten Ivarsson. Ivarsson revolutionized the pipe making process in the 1960s with his paradigm-shifting “shape first, drill second” approach, allowing carvers greater freedom and creativity when crafting new designs.

    Recognizing this potential for collaboration, Stanwell commissioned Sixten to design a number of shapes for the Danish marque. This relationship, then, extended to other artisans in Denmark: Jess Chonowitsch, Anne Julie, Tom Eltang, and the S. Bang workshop, which at the time consisted of Svend Bang, Per Hansen, and Ulf Noltensmeier.

    Stanwell’s extensive portfolio, then, features a number of artisan-designed shapes, offering the individuality and aesthetic appeal of artisan pipes but with the greater production ability of a state-of-the-art factory. Such a combination is rarely seen from large-scale pipe makers, setting Stanwell apart and lending it a distinguished place among the globe-spanning breadth of pipe making.

    Many of these artisan-designed shapes can be found in our Danish Estates category, and below are listed some of the most popular and iconic pieces, divided by their progenitors:

    Sixten Ivarsson

    11 – Bent Pot

    17 – Billiard

    21 – Potato Sack

    30 – Acorn

    35 – Peewit

    62/63/64 – Bent Dublins

    70 – Volcano

    86 – Bent Pot

    Anne Julie

    11 – Bent Bulldog

    35 – Bent Egg Freehand

    Tom Eltang

    126 – Horn (plateau rim, 125 smooth rim)

    131 – Apple

    190 – Billiard

    191 – Bent Rhodesian

    199 – Billiard

    Sixtus 208 – Billiard

    Sixtus 209 – Apple

    Sixtus 210 – Pot

    Sixtus 211 – Bent Dublin

    Sixtus 212 – Bent Billiard

    Sixtus 213 – Horn/Zulu

    227 – Bent Dublin

    228 – Dublin

    232 – Bent Billiard (sits)

    Featherweight 243 – Bent Dublin/Acorn

    Featherweight 245 – Poker

    Jess Chonowitsch

    140 – Bent Dublin

    141 – Billiard/Brandy

    142 – Bent Dublin

    145 – Horn

    146 – Horn/Dublin

    148 – Canadian

    162 – Calabash

    217 – Horn

    S. Bang

    178 – Billiard

    179 – Bent Apple” (Stanwell Shapes and Origins | Smokingpipes.com)  I did take some creative license to format the original images to better fit the page but the information was not changed in any way.  

    In looking at the images from various Stanwell carvers I could not find a match for the Royal Guard pipe.  The number 522 also could not be found on any Stanwell literature.  The closest thing I could find was the following:

    (Stanwell Shape Numbers and Designers – Pipedia)

    If you assume that the 5 of the 522 is there to indicate the Royal Guard then the 22 would be the shape number.  There is no reference to a shape 52 in any Stanwell catalogs so, this seems like a reasonable assertion.  The shape number 22, is mentioned in the above quote/screenshot in two versions.  The “Straight billiard with an oval shank and tapered stem” obviously does not pertain to this pipe but the “Bent apple-horn hybrid with a half-saddle stem” could be used to describe this pipe.

    (Stanwell Shape Numbers and Designers – Pipedia)  A further look at who originally designed the Stanwell shapes lists Sixten Ivsrsen as the creator of shape 22.  As for the date of production, who knows.  If I had to guess I would say, 1970s but that would be just a guess. 

    The Restoration

    Even just sitting on a denim piece at the workbench I think this is a great shape.

    As I said before, I was excited to try out the new Briarville Pipe Stem Oxidation Remover.  So much so, that I completely forgot to clean the stem airway before inserting a pipe cleaner to act as a handle and placing it in the solution.

    I left the stem in the solution for 12 hours.

    Reaming the tobacco chamber was the next task.  The ream team was gathered, below.

    The PipNet with the #3 blade did the heavy lifting here with the General triangular scraper finishing up the job.

    The chamber was sanded with 220 sandpaper to bare briar.  No heat damage was observed in the chamber.  The rim certainly needed a good cleaning to remove the lava, though.

    The lava was moistened with saliva and allowed to sit for a couple of minutes before being scraped with a sharp pocket knife.

    The scraping revealed no serious charring of the rim’s briar.

    Next, the stummel was taken to the sink for a scrubbing with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    Back at the workbench the stummel was wiped with 95% ethyl alcohol on a make-up pad.  This removed some color from the stummel.

    There was some shine remaining on the stummel so I repeated the wiping with acetone on make-up pads.

    This pipe had been used for smoking cherry blends and there was a definite cherry ghost haunting the briar.  I opted to do a cotton alcohol treatment to exorcize the ghost while I waited to see the results of the Briarville solution.  

    I added alcohol to the cotton which was stuffed into the tobacco chamber and airway with a disposable pipette.

    Alcohol was added until both ends were saturated.

    The next day revealed the scene below.  The bowl was quite unstained while the shank was heavily discolored.

    The cotton was removed.

    Well, it isn’t bright and pretty yellow anymore.  The Briarville solution was dramatically darker than the previous day.

    The stem was moved to a coarse shop rag.

    A vigorous rubbing with the rag removed some of the softened oxidation from the stem and left it on the rag.

    The stamping on the stem looked good.  There is always a fear of the oxidation remover removing the logo though, this stamp was nice and deep and hard not been buffed or worn into oblivion like some I’ve seen.

    Overall I was quite impressed with the Briarville Pipe Stem Oxidation Remover.  It seemed to have worked well and was less messy than the Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer that I have been using for many years.

    I applied a drizzle of Soft Scrub cleanser to several make-up pads and scrubbed the stem with these.  There was a lot of oxidized vulcanite removed in the process.

    The last step in the oxidation was a coating of Before and After Hard Rubber Balm.  This is another product sent to me by Mark Hoover, creator of the Before and After Products.  I really like this blam for maintaining vulcanite stems after they have been restored.  I think the more viscous balm is a better preservative than the Obsidian Oil.

    With the residues within the shank softened by the alcohol-cotton treatment I started cleaning out the shank with alcohol dipped cotton swabs and a dental scraper.

    The mortise had been drilled with a Forstner or other flat bottomed bit making a very regular mortise.  This also created a great place for tars and residues to accumulate.

    With the airway cleaned I was ready to start sanding the stem.  To protect the shank and stem log0, masking tape was used to cover them.  I wanted the stem and stummel together during the sanding to avoid round their edges creating an unsightly gap.

    I tried flame painting the tooth dents out the button of the stem.  This can sometimes reduce the dents.

    The one thing that always reduces dents is filing the area.  It also reestablishes a nice button.

    The filing was done on both the bottom and top of the stem.

    The stem was then sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 320-3500 grit.  Between each sponge I rubbed the stem with mineral oil and wiped it off with a paper towel.

    The smooth part of the stummel was sanded with the same series of sanding sponges.  Here I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad moistened with alcohol between sponges.

    The original logo appeared to have been painted with a white paint.  I thought that a silver would look more “Royal”, befitting the name Royal Guard.

    I applied silver leaf Rub’nBuff with a fly tying bodkin, working it into the logo stampings.

    The Rub’nBuff was buffed by rubbing it on the denim work surface.  This left a little bit of silver remaining on the area around the logo.  I figured that this would be removed by the micro-mesh pads.

    The stem and smother area of the stummel were micro-meshed with pads 400-12000.  The stummel was wiped with an alcohol dampened make-up pad between micro-mesh pads while the stem was rubbed with Obsidian Oil between pads.

    The stem was then polished with Before and After Fine followed by Extra Fine Polished.  Both were applied by my finger and hand buffed with a soft cotton cloth.

    The pipe was then taken to the buffer for several coats of carnauba wax.  Since the sandblast was not very deep or pronounced I thought that it would be safe to use carnauba wax if applied carefully and worked with the blast direction.

    The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth further deepening the shine.

    I think this Royal Guard 522 turned out very well. This rim and stem were the two areas I was worried about, both turned out exceptionally well.  The high gloss black vulcanite really accentuates and contrasts the sandblast of the stummel.  The smooth portions of the stummel and shan are also a nice contrast in textures and amplify the sweeping curves of this shape.  There was a lingering cherry taste when Drawing air through the pipe.  Fortunately for me I planned on keeping this pipe and adding it to my personal collection and I don’t mind the ever so slight cherry.  Heck, I might just use it for those blends.   The dimensions of the Royal Guard 522 are:

    Length:  5.69 in./ 144.53 mm.

    Weight:  1.82 oz./ 51.60 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.81 in./  45.97 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.55 in./ 39.37 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.80 in./ 20.32 mm.

    Outside Diameter:  1.66 in./ 42.16 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover. 

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    Below are some photos of the finished Royal Guard 522.

  • A Marxman Lovat Restoration with a Shank Reconstruction

    April 10th, 2025

    Photographed and written by 

    John M. Young

    My love affair with Marxman pipes sometimes gets the best of me or worst of me.  This pipe started out as just a typical listing on eBay for two pipes.  The E. Wilke is the one that caught my eye and the Marxman was a deal sweetener.  

    I made an offer that was accepted.  The seller messaged me saying that he broke the Marxman while putting the stem back on and that he was going to substitute a Dr Grabow pipe.  I replied by saying that I bought the two pipes from the listing and did not want a Dr Grabow.  We messaged back and forth, him saying the pipe was thrown away, me saying I’ll still take it but I wanted a discount of the original price.  He eventually sent me the broken Marxman, though without the chipped piece from the shank and the Wilke.  Below are some photos of the Marxman prior to work being done.

    The glaring repair was the large chip from the shank.  I thought the best way to fix this would be to cut a piece of briar from a donor pipe and carve it to fit.  The whole piece would then be covered with a band.  The replacement briar would provide the strength and fill the void.  Other than that this looked like a typical restoration.

    Background

    I have restored numerous Marxman pipes and blogged about several.  I will not go into great detail fawning over the amazing Robert Marx and his marketing genius.  I will include a link to one blog where I detailed the history of the; company, myth, legend and the man that was Robert Marx.  If you’d like a nice brief history, pipedia.org has a nice Marxman primer HERE.

    The Restoration

    The poor broken Marxman made its way to the workbench and a clean denim piece.

    The first task was to find a donor pipe that was close in size.  I found an old Bruyere Guarente with nearly the same diameter.  I felt a little bit sad for the poor donor then looked upon the large number of fills in the old French billiard and thought that would live on in this Marxman.

    I measured the approximate chip dimensions and marked them on the donor.

    The ream team was gathered and included the PipNet, Smokingpipes Low Country Reamer and the General triangular scraper.

    The PipNet #1 blades were used for most of the work.  The #2 blades were just a bit too large for the tobacco chamber so the other two reamers were used to finish the scraping.

    The tobacco chamber was then sanded with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel.  No heat damage was observed in the chamber.

    Airway cleaning was next.  The initial alcohol soaked cotton swabs and pipe cleaners came back black with smoking residue.  The best part about the chipped shank was that I could get a little bit deeper into the shank with the dental scraper.  The scraping produced a great deal of tar and yuck.

    The cleaning continued with more alcohol, cotton swabs and bristle pipe cleaners.  There was also more scraping and scrubbing with a nylon shank brush.

    The stem was cleaned with 95% ethyl alcohol and bristle pipe cleaners.  The tooth dents were filed with a small flat file.

    The filing also addressed the reshaping of the button.

    A couple of weeks ago Richard Messineo (BRIARVILLE TOBACCO PIPE REPAIR & RESTORATION) asked for my address.  He said that he’d like to send me some of Briarville’s Stem Oxidation Remover to try.   Apparently he had read the blog and still thought that Briarville should be associated with this blog.  Weird, eh?  Heck, I don’t even know if I want to be associated with some of the ramblings found here…  Anyway, the Briarville Stem Oxidation Remover (Briarville deox) arrived and I was anxious to give it a try.  The label said to leave the stem in the solution for between 2-24 hours.  The solution was a lovely bright yellow and was far more liquid than the Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer (deox) that I have been using for the past several years. The Briarville deox also has a much less offensive aroma than my old deox.  The stem received a pipe cleaner to act as a hanger to suspend the stem in the solution.

    As I was cleaning the shank and stem I was thinking about the best way to cut the donor shank and remove the patch.  I opted to use the Dremel rotary tool with a cutoff bit.

    The large diameter would create a larger cut on the donor but the thin nature of the cutoff bit was a plus.

    The cutting went without issue and provided me with a pretty good match to the chipped portion of the Marxamn.  Some minor shaping was done to improve the fit with the flat surface of the cutoff bit.

    Below you can see a rough fitting of the patch.

    Here is the opposite side.

    The stummel was taken to the sink for a scrubbing with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    I looked over at the Briarville deox.  The stem had been in the solution for about an hour.  I noticed there was a brown swirl at the bottom of the jar.  Cool, it works.

    Back at the workbench, the stummel looked better.  The scrubbing revealed a couple of old fills that were quite soft, one on the left of the bowl and another on the right at the junction of the shank and bowl.  I picked the old fill out of the pits with a fly tying bodkin.  

    I wiped the surface of the stummel with a make-up pad dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.

    Below is the pit picked of the old fill.

    And the second pit.

    The pits were filled with brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) applied with a fly tying bodkin. 

    I then pressed briar dust into the pit.  The new fill was then filed smooth and sanded with a 400 grit sanding sponge.

    And the second fill.

    The next day I returned to the stem.  It had spent about 12 hours in the Briarville deox.

    The stem was removed and placed on a coarse shop rag.

    I vigorously rubbed the stem with the shop rag.  Some oxidized vulcanite was removed by the rag.

    Back at the workbench I examined the stem and compared the results between the two solutions.  There was a light brown residue on the stem.  The residue was also present in the stamping of the stem logo.

    I wanted to treat the stem like I would if I were using the Before and After product so I scrubbed the stem with Soft Scrub on a make-up pad.  The Soft Scrub removed more oxidized vulcanite.  The light brown residue was removed with this scrubbing.

    After the scrubbing I applied Before and After Hard Rubber Balm.

    I gathered the stuff that I needed for the gluing of the patch into the chipped area.  I wanted to use epoxy due to the more forgiving nature and longer setting time.

    I wanted to glue the patch in place with the assistance of the tenon to keep this aligned.  To keep the epoxy from adhering to the tenon, I applied a coating of petroleum jelly to the tenon.

    Below, you can see the well greased tenon.

    The epoxy was placed on all of the surfaces and clamped.  The next three photos show various views of the clamp.  This epoxy is said to set-up in 15 minutes.  I let it sit for 30 before removing the clamp and stem.

    While the epoxy was setting-up I measured the width of the brass band.  I thought that a band that completely covered the patch looked too large for the size of this pipe.  I chose to make the band a bit smaller and looked more appropriate.

    After 30 minutes the clamp and stem were removed.  The patch looked good.  I thought that it provided good contact with the existing shank and the tenon.  The band would provide the reinforcement strengthening the whole shank end.

    I began filing the patch making the patch fit the contours of the shank.

    There were small seams which I filled with brown CA and briar dust, as with a normal fill.

    The above fills were smoothed with a file and sanding sponges.  In preparations for the sanding, the shank stamps were taped on both the left and right sides.

    The stummel was sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 320-3500.  Between each sponge the briar was wiped with a make-up sponge moistened with alcohol.

    The stummel was then worked with micro-mesh pads 4000-12000.  Again, between each pad the stummel was wiped with a make-up pad wetted with alcohol.

    To keep the joint from being rounded by sanding I wanted to sand it attached to the shank.  I was not worried about rounding the shank end since it would be under the band but I still did not want to remove briar from the shank so, I wrapped it in masking tape.

    The stem logo was taped over with masking tape for its protection.  The stem was sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 320-3500 grit.  Between sponges the stem was rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a paper towel to remove sanding debris.

    The stem was worked with micro-mesh pads from 4000-12000.  Between pads I rubbed the stem with Obsidian Oil and wiped it with a paper towel.

    The brass band was temporarily fitted.  I could see that the filing and sanding of the shank end had made it lighter color than the rest of the shank.  I thought that I could match the color better with a Furniture Touch-up marker.  Oak was the color of choice.

    Below you can see the stained shank end.

    To glue the band in place I used brown CA applied to the shank and pressed the band in place against the workbench.

    I thought the stem logo would look good in a color that accentuated the brass band so gold leaf Rub’nBuff was used. I first cleaned the logo stamping with alcohol on a cotton swab.

    The Rub’nBuff was applied with a fly tying bodkin and worked into the stamping.

    The Rub’nBuff was buffed off holding the stem and rubbing it on the denim work surface.

    The stem was then re-oiled with Obsidian Oil.

    The stummel received a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm and was allowed to sit for 20 minutes.

    After the Restoration Balm worked its magic the excess balm was wiped with an inside out athletic sock.

    The pipe was taken to the buffer to polish the brass band with white buffing compound.

    After the metal polishing the pipe was wiped thoroughly and waxed with several coats of carnauba wax with the buffer.

    The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth further deepening the shine.

    I think this Marxman turned out very well.  I am still having internal debates as to the band width.  I think it looks great with this band but I wonder if a band that concealed the whole scar would have been okay.  The repair is solid and the stem fit is very good.  I have no worries about the repair failing.  The band looks like it is original and adds a flourish which improves the look of the pipe.  The Briarville Stem Deoxidizer was a very nice product to work with.  I cannot say at this point whether I prefer it or not over the Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer.  More testing will be done on future restorations.  I can say that it works well and is less messy to use.  The stem looks great with no signs of oxidation but it was not a heavily oxidized stem to begin with.  These dimensions of the Marxman lovat are:

    Length:  5.20 in./ 132.08 mm.

    Weight:  0.74 oz./ 20.98 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.56 in./  39.62 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.37 in./ 34.80 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.67 in./ 17.02 mm.

    Outside Diameter:  1.20 in./ 30.48 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover. 

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    Below are some photos of the finished Marxman lovat.

  • A Missouri Meerschaum Riverboat Gambler Customization

    April 8th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    I am stepping a bit away from a restoration with this blog.  These are brand new Missouri Meerschaums that I saw on sale from The Pipe Nook a while back.  I was not terribly impressed with the color scheme but I thought that they would look lovely if dyed with black.  The gold (brass) collar and the white stem looked amazing in my vivid mental image.  Well, I ordered three of them and completely forgot about them until the day they arrived.  Below are a couple of photos of the pipes upon arrival.

    Background

    The three pipes in my vivid mental image reminded me of the Three Amigos movie.  Perhaps due to the color scheme of because I found both to be funny.

    (https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR_cYnPqluK9oSLhSnahLRE2or2bchVG5scyEXdtgrBw6sfir3u)

    Corn cob pipes by their very nature make me think of down home utilitarian goodness.  Nebraska, my home state, is known as the home of the University of Nebraska Lincoln (UNL) Cornhuskers.  Immediately to our southeast is the state of Missouri, home of the Missouri Meerschaum Pipe Company.  According to pipedia.org, 

    “Washington, Missouri has long been known as the “Corn Cob Pipe Capital of the World.” It was the Missouri Meerschaum Company, still the world’s oldest and largest manufacturer of the cool, sweet-smelling corn cob pipes, that began the tradition for which Washington became famous.

    In 1869 Henry Tibbe, a Dutch immigrant woodworker, first began production of the corn cob pipe. Legend has it that a local farmer whittled a pipe out of corn cob and liked it so much he asked Henry Tibbe to try turning some on his lathe. The farmer was well-pleased with his pipes so Henry made a few more and put them for sale in his shop. They proved to be such a fast selling item that soon Tibbe spent more time making pipes for his customers than working with wood. Soon Tibbe went into full time production of corn cob pipes. In 1907, the H. Tibbe & Son Co. became the Missouri Meerschaum Company

    The word Meerschaum is taken from a German word that means “sea foam”. It is a Turkish clay used in high grade pipes. Tibbe likened his light, porous pipes and their cool smoke to that of the more expensive meerschaum pipes and coined the name “Missouri Meerschaum” for his pipes. Tibbe and a chemist friend devised an innovative system of applying a plaster-based substance to the outside of the corn cob bowls. In 1878, Tibbe patented this process.

    A nationwide distribution system was established for the sale of his pipes. Other pipe firms also developed; by 1925 there were as many as a dozen corn cob pipe companies in Franklin County, most of them in Washington. Today, Missouri Meerschaum stands alone as the first and only surviving piece of the living history. These gentle pipes are smoked and loved all over the world as well as being used as souvenirs, often imprinted with the name of the city, business or event.” (Missouri Meerschaum – Pipedia)  

    These three lovelies are brand new products of Missouri Meerschaum. 

    The Customization

    The three amigos made their way to the workbench and nestled in with a clean denim piece.

    I thought the natural rim of these pipes would look interesting if I kept it in it’s natural state.  TO do this I planned on applying a coating of Vallejo Liquid Mask to the rim.  This product is a liquid latex which dries quickly and will seal off the surface.  It is used by model painters to keep paint off surfaces where paint is unwanted.  Once dry it can be easily peeled off.  I planned on pouring a small amount onto a try and dipping the rim into the Liquid Mask.

    Well, the plan came to a quick detour.  The liquid was thicker than I remembered it being so a fly tying bodkin was used to stir it and apply a layer to the rim.

    As the mask dries it loses the pastel color and becomes more clear.

    Below you can see the mask clearing.  I sanded the stummel and shank with a 320 sanding sponge and followed that with a 400 grit sponge.  The bare wood/cob was wiped with a make-up pad moistened with alcohol to remove sanding debris.

    The dye of choice was Fiebing’s Leather Dye in black.  I wanted to heat the surfaces to be dyed with a heat gun prior to the dyeing to help the dye penetrate.  

    The dye was applied with a folded pipe cleaner.  I applied two coats and tried to flame the wet dye but most of the alcohol had evaporated.  Instead I used the heat gun to apply heat to the stummel.

    A third coat of dye was applied.  This time it did flame but not much so the heat gun was used again.

    Back at the workbench the stummel was allowed to dry for over an hour.

    I was happy with how the cob and wood had taken the dye.

    I peeled the Liquid Mask from the rim.

    The mask worked brilliantly but I Was not sure if I liked the natural rim or not.

    Tha base and the logo looked okay.

    For pipe number two, I sanded as with number 1.

    This time I applied the Vallejo Liquid Mask to the logo on the bottom of the pipe.

    Below is the dye kit used for the second pipe.

    Number two was dyed black.

    A second coat of black on number two.

    A third coat of black on number 2.

    Both pipe 1 and 2 were set aside for an hour to completely dry.  As I looked at the two side by side, I decided that I did not like the natural rim.  I used a cotton swab to carefully apply Fiebing’s Leather Dye to the rim of pipe number 1.

    I liked that better.  Some dye made it past the cork plug and into the tobacco chamber with both pipes.  I do not think this will be noticeable when smoked or if it is I’m sure it will be very temporary.

    As the first two were dying st started on the third pipe.  As I was twisting the stem loseI noticed it was cracking.  As I continued it broke completely leaving the broken tenon in the mortise.

    I used a drywall screw to remove the broken tenon piece.  Hmm, not happy but this will be an excuse to buy a Forever Stem from Vermont Freehand.  I think one of the light bone sems would look amazing.  Stay tuned for that blog.

    The natural and the black backgrounds for the logos both looked good to me so, I left it weil enough.

    The next day I applied a coating of Nordicare Danish Oil to the black dyed surfaces.  This was allowed to dry for an hour.

    A second coating was added and allowed to dry for several hours.

    I wrapped the shanks of both pipes with masking tape to protect them while I buffed the collars.

    White buffing compound was used on the dedicated white wheel.  This did put some smudges on the white stems but wiped clean with a cotton cloth.

    The pipes were then lightly waxed using carnauba wax on the buffer.

    The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth.

    I think these two corn cob pipes turned out very nicely.  They match the vivid mental image I formed in my imagination when I first saw them.  The whole process went pretty much as planned.  I think the slightly matte finish goes with the whole cob character as does the slightly rough finish of the shank.  The white stems are a beautiful contrast to the black dyed stummels and those polished brass collars add a touch of class few expect from a corn cob pipe.  These pipes are ready for a classy night at the opera or at least Grand Ole Opry.

    These dimensions of these two Missouri Meerschaums should be very similar, being lazy, I only measured one:

    Length:  6.30 in./ 160.02 mm.

    Weight:  1.31 oz./ 37.13 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.80 in./  45.72 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.67 in./ 42.42 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.69 in./ 17.53 mm.

    Outside Diameter:  1.48 in./ 37.59mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover. 

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    Below are some photos of the finished Missouri Meerschaum Riverboat Gamblers.

    Below is pipe #1

    Below is pipe #2

    Below is the rim of pipe #2

    Below is the rim of pipe #1

  • A Marseille Oval Shank Volcano Restoration

    April 4th, 2025

    Photographed and written by 

    John M Young

    I don’t understand how the red in pipes is so difficult to capture in photographs.  The oxidation is easy to capture and this stem had plenty of that.  The rim was coated in a layer of lava indicating a fair amount of use but the tobacco chamber was pretty clean.  Perhaps the previous owner liked to keep the cake to a minimum but was not concerned about rim maintenance.  I did not like the look of the clear coat on the pipe and hoped that would be easily removed.  Overall this looked like a straightforward restoration.

    Background

    I can barely say anything about this pipe.  Pipedia.org has nothing on Marseille.  Pipephil.eu has the following:

    Which, in all honesty, is the same as nothing.  The pipe has no country of manufacture (COM) stamp but, if I were a betting man, I’d bet on France.  Marseille makes me think of Marsielle Marso but I kind of dislike bringing that up due to the dislike of mimes in general by AMericans.  At least in my experience mimes are not appreciated.  

    Smokingpipes.com has two old estate pipe listings.  One by Butz-Choquin

    (https://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/estate/france/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=200428) and the other by Chacom.

    (https://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/estate/france/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=558385)

    Both Butz-Choquin and Chacom are French pipe makers although the lack of any maker’s stamps or COM on the Marseille at hand opens any conclusion I make to pure speculation.

    The Restoration

    This is the second pipe of the double restoration.  The first was the E. Wilke Squashed Apple.  If you missed that restoration there is the link.  I said in that one that I do not normally like to work on more than one pipe at a time.  Anyway, here is the Masrielle situated on a clean denim piece.

    I lightly sanded the stem with a 400 grit sanding sponge.  I was careful to avoid the stem logo.

    Next the tooth marks were filed smooth with a small flat file.

    The stemairway was cleaned with 95%ethyl alcohol and pipe cleaners.  The button was a little bit constricted so I used a Vermont Freehand Slot Funneling Tool to clean up the slightly off-center drilling.  I also used a piece of emery board (fingernail file) to sand the airway at the button.

    The stems of both project pipes were suspended in Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer (deox).  The stems were left in the solution  for four hours.

    I returned to the stummel and cleaned out the airway within the shank.  95% ethyl alcohol with cotton swabs and a nylon shank brush were the tools of choice here.

    Next came the ream team:  The PipNet with #2 blades, the Smokingpipes Low Country Reamer and the General triangular scraper with the tip ground off, round were called up for duty.

    They all served valiantly with the PipNet doing the lion’s share of the work.

    Once sanded Chuck marks within the tobacco chamber could be observed.  This told me that the pipe, though used, had not experienced a lot of use.

    The stummel made her way to the sink for a scrubbing with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    The scrubbing did not remove the lava from the rim as well as I had hoped.  Back at the workbench a wipe with ethyl alcohol on a make-up pad barely touched the clear coat and the lava.

    The rim required a bit of scraping with a sharp knife.  Saliva was applied to soften the deposits on the rim prior to and during the scraping.

    It was looking better.

    The problem with a good scraping was what it uncovered.  The absence of the lava highlighted some dings on the rim.  Topping would be my solution to this.

    I wondered if wiping the stummel with acetone on a make-up pad would be sufficient to dissolve away the clear coat.

    The acetone was working but oh, so slowly.

    Light sanding helped etch the coating but it was still a slow process.

    I decided to give the stummel a 30 minute bath in acetone.

    After 30 minutes the stummel was removed and wiped with another make-up pad.

    The shininess of the clear coat was gone and with it most of the red stain.

    The four hour deox bath ended and both stems were set up to drip excess deon solution back into the jar.

    The Marseille stem was vigorously rubbed with a coarse shop rag to remove both the remaining deox solution and some of the oxidized vulcanite.

    The stem was scrubbed with Soft Scrub cleanser on a few make-up pads to remove more of the stubborn oxidized vulcanite.

    Both stems were oiled with mineral oil and set aside overnight.

    I returned my attention to the stummel.  I wanted to try to return it to the reddish brown.  I assembled the materials needed to dye the stummel; Dark Red Fiebing’s Leather Dye, a lighter , a wine bottle cork and a pipe cleaner.  The cork was to be both a plug, keeping dye out of the tobacco chamber and a handle.  The lighter, for flaming the wet dye, allowing the alcohol solvent to burn off and set the dye to the briar and the pipe cleaner as an applicator.

    Below is the freshly dyed stummel in red.

    The stummel was allowed to air dry another 30 minutes at the workbench.

    A second dying was done with mahogany Fiebing’s Leather dye and the same process as with the red dye.

    Below is the freshly dyed stummel with mahogany over the red dye.

    This too was allowed to dry for 30 minutes before lightly wiping the stummel with a make-up pad wetted with 95% ethyl alcohol.

    The stamps were taped with painters tape to protect them during the sanding to come.

    The stem and stummel were reconnected and sanded together.  A series of sanding sponges in grits of 600-3500 were used.  Between each sponge the stummel was wiped with an alcohol dampened make-up pad to remove sanding debris.  The stem was rubbed with a light coating of mineral oil and wiped with a paper towel between sanding sponges.  You can see in the photo below where I wiped the sponges off on the denim.  It not only protects the workbench surface but is a great place to wipe sanding sponges.

    The stummel was then worked with micro-mesh pads 4000-12000.  The wiping of the stummel with a make-up pad was repeated as was the oiling and wiping of the stem.

    The pipe was taken to the buffer for several coats of carnauba wax.  The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth.

    I said it before and I say it again, I am developing an appreciation for the oval shank.  It is a feature that provides a more robust feel in the hand while retaining a more elegant contour in profile.  I am sure the extra briar also provides additional strength for those who are a bit more hard on pipes.  The oval shanked volcano of this Marseille restored beautifully.  The dye turned out lovely and the factory staining was fairly well mimicked.  The stem oxidation was problematic with the loss of the logo disappointing.  I admit that I am not finished with this restoration.  I am waiting for another brand of stem deoxidizer which a supplier has sent me to try.  I want to try it on this stem and report the findings when I have used the product.  Stay tuned for updates.  Overall I am very pleased at how well this pipe turned out.   The dimensions of the Marseille Oval Shank Volcano are:

    Length:  5.05 in./ 128.27 mm.

    Weight:  1.47 oz./ 41.67 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.84 in./  46.74 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.47 in./ 37.34 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.76 in./ 19.30 mm.

    Outside Diameter:  1.56 in./ 39.62 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover. 

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    Below are some photos of the finished Marseille Oval Shank Volcano.

  • An E. Wilke Squat Apple Restoration

    April 1st, 2025

    Photographed and written by 

    John M. Young

    I will probably catch grief for calling this a squat apple and be corrected by some saying it is a tomato or an author but to my eye, it looks like an apple and to be specific an Cortland Apple sans the anthocyanins and their red.  Sorry, my previous life as a chemistry teacher emerged and demanded recognition.  This plump little darling caught my eye along with its long shanked Marxman coconspirator.  The eBay listing only had two photos, the below is a screenshot of one of them:

    Those adorable chubby cheeks demanded that I buy the pair.  There was a little bit of drama but I’ll leave that to the blog about the Marxman but after a few days wait, the E. Wilke and Marxman both arrived.

    Below are some photos of the pipe prior to working on it.

    Yeah, it had some issues but that shape, that amazingly round bowled shape.  I was smitten.  The stem looked like a Weber that had been left out in the sun.  The pipe had obviously been smoked and showed the signs of moderate use, as shown by the charring and lava on the rim.  There was also that strange dark streak of the right shank and that truly dreadful fissure on the bottom of the shank but those chubby cheeks could not be denied.  I would reclaim this dilapidated doll and make her mine.

    Background

    E. Wilke stamped on the shank of this pipe refers to Edwin Wilke.  According to pipedia.org, 

    “Edwin Wilke founded Wilke Tobacco in 1872. As the story goes, according to a 1937 New York World-Telegram article, he had no sons, and so he taught his two daughters, Anna and Louisa Wilke, how to make pipes and blend tobacco, and by his death in 1930 they were well versed in both trades, and adamant about only using quality briar. In 1950, when they were the focus of an article in the Sarasota Herald-Tribune, they were the only women pipe makers in the United States, and had sold pipes to Herbert Hoover, Lord Halifax, John Steinbeck and others. The sisters also blended pipe tobacco and repaired pipes. They did not, however, smoke pipes.

    Wilke prided itself on “unpainted pipes”, and promised that only Macedonian briar was used, without paint, varnish, plug, or putty of any kind. As of 1950, some of their pipes were selling for up to $100.00, or just under $1,000.00 dollars today. By the release of a 1970 New York Magazine highlight of the shop, that claim had risen to $500.00, or over $3,000.00 today.

    The Wilke Pipe Shop was located for decades at 400 Madison Avenue and 48th, in New York City, and in the 1970s opened a satellite store in the famed Wanamaker’s department store in Philadelphia, selling Wilke pipes made by Steven Johnson. In 1983, the brand was purchased by pipe maker Elliott Nachwalter and his wife, Carole Burns. They continued to operate the Madison Avenue store until the early 1990’s, at which point the couple moved to Vermont and Pipeworks & Wilke was born as a mail-order business.

    Carole Burns[1] continued blending tobacco in Montpelier, Vermont till July 2017. Now John Brandt looks to continue blending Wilke’s traditional blends and bringing back some of the older blends from the early days to keep the 145 year old brand alive and growing.[2]“ (Wilke – Pipedia)

    Now, this pipe did seem to fit a couple of the characteristics from the pipes.org article;  it was unvarnished and it did not seem to have any putty filling imperfections in the briar.  I cannot speak to the “Macedonian briar” as there is no stamp indicating the origin of the briar.  I still think that the stem of this pipe reminds me of Weber made pipes from the same era.  In researching further I found an old Google Groups discussion of E. Wile pipes from 2002. Here the user “” started a thread with the following,

    “Can anyone give me a brief history about this manufacturer or brand? I

    am curious about… if this was a NY company that made pipes, still in

    business, overall quality…etc. thanks!” (https://groups.google.com/g/alt.smokers.pipes/c/w34OVfPNFfE?pli=1)

    The interesting part came from another user named “LDaneman”.  LDaneman, states the following”

    “As a former employee and pipemaker for Edwin Wilke Company, I can give you a

    little history.  The little shop on Madison Avenue was purchased by a Stanley Becker, a jewish NY lawyer. Some pipes were left over from Wilke’s hey-day, . . . I forget the name of the Italian pipemaker who did extra-large art deco shapes.

    Through the 80’s the old (80+) tobacconist still blended up on the 4th Floor
    and I have fond memories of ‘time-traveling’ with him. The 524 blend was better
    than Dunhill, and the 400 was pretty good as well. The key was an unflavored
    golden Cavendish and a dark fine cut Cavendish in the 524.

    I started a new pipemaking workshop in Philadelphia for Wilke’s concession shop
    in John Wanamaker’s department store. Our pipes made national news and we
    shipped tobaccos to European customers. My pipes sold from $65 to $1000 but our
    main pipemaker was Stephen Johnson. Last I heard Steve worked for Zino
    Davidoff.

    Steve made some sweet smoking pipes and I smoke a few of my own make with the Wilke stamp, but still own a couple by Steve as well.

    I was fired under dubious circumstances. The management of Wanamakers hated me since I successfully marketed Eltron razors when they failed, pens, and really
    hit the roof when I began blending a men’s fragrance.

    Wilke in Philly folded less than a year after my departure into the perfume
    business and the New York shop was sold soon after that. I heard Wilke finally
    vanished after the buyer was hit with unpaid employee taxes and was bankrupted,
    but that is just a rumor to me, . . . I don’t know if that is true or not.

    Most the Wilke pipes are not especially good, mass-manufactured by a factory
    whose name escapes me. Unless made by the old Italian fellow (an indented tenon
    is usually an indication of his make) or by Steve Johnson, . . . well just
    forget it.

    A grand history in the 20’s through 50’s. The 60’s brought on a slow demise.” (https://groups.google.com/g/alt.smokers.pipes/c/w34OVfPNFfE?pli=1)

    In a later post LDaneman writes,  

    “. . . ., and if anyone is interested, most of the post Wilke sister pipes were

    mass-produced by Weber pipe company. I think anyway. Trying to remember the

    name of that company. They were crap and that’s why I set up the new pipemaking

    shop on the mezzanine level at Wanamakers. It was in the original teak paneled

    Tobacco Shop John Wanamaker used to hang his hat and coat in.  Was lost when 

    they enlarged an underground parking garage.” (https://groups.google.com/g/alt.smokers.pipes/c/w34OVfPNFfE?pli=1)

    Now, I have no reason to doubt anything that LDanman writes.  The pipeda.org information indicates that the  location of the Wanamaker’s in Philadelphia occurred in the 1970s and that LDaneman “Set up a new pipe making shop” on Wanamakers mezzanine.  This too would likely be during the 1970s.  His knowledge of the company is interesting but his jumping around in time, frustrating. The part about the Weber made pipes was particularly interesting as I thought the stem of this pipe looked like a Weber made stem.

    The Weber connection is further supported by information again from pipedia.org,

    “The firm grew to be one of the giants of the American pipe industry focusing itself in the middle price and quality zone. Trademark: “Weber” in an oval. Beside that Weber – especially in the years after 1950 – was a most important supplier for private label pipes that went to an immense number of pipe shops. Alone in New York, exactly the same pipes were found at Wilke’s, Barclay Rex, Trinity East, Joe Strano’s Northampton Tobacconist in Ridgewood, Queens, Don-Lou in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn… Nearly all pipes for Wilke were unstained and many models, for example the “Wilke Danish Bent”, could hardly deny originating of Weber.”  (Weber Pipe Co. – Pipedia)

    So, the question remains, “who made this pipe and when?”  I honestly do not know.  I feel pretty sure of my original thought that this was a Weber made pipe, likely from the 1970 or later.  Produced for the E. Wilke company.

    The Restoration

    As usual the pipe made its way to the workbench and a clean denim piece.  I actually undertook the restoration of two pipes during this project.  That is not something I really like to do but my schedule has been filled with essential time sucking activities.  Okay, I’ve been doing a bit of fishing and have not been at the workbench as much as I should.

    The stem required some work before I could put it into the Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer solution (deox).  This will be called pre-deox and involved; some scraping of calcium/oxidation, filing tooth dents and light sanding with a 400 grit sanding sponge.

    The stem was also cleaning out internally with bristle pipe cleaners dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.

    The stem had trouble passing a pipe cleaner through the button so I did work on opening the airway a little bit.  I used a tapered piece of an emery board to sand the interior of the airway.

    The resulting airway was much better.

    The stems of the two project pipes, the E. Wilke and another oval stemmed piece were suspended in deox with pipe cleaners as hangers.  They each spent about four hours in the solution.

    During this time I continued work on the E. Wilke stummel.  The shank was cleaned out using a dental scraper, nylon shank brush, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners with 95% ethyl alcohol.

    Once the shank was clean I turned to the tobacco chamber.  The PiNet #1 and #2 blades along with the General triangular scraper and the Smokingpipes Low Country Reamer were used.

    The below photo shows the results of each tool.

    After reaming the chamber was sanded with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel.  The tobacco chamber showed no signs of charring or heat damage.

    Next, the stummel went to the sink where it was scrubbed with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon scrub brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    The scrubbing revealed an unsightly charred rim and a dark stain I thought was accumulated grime.

    A second scrubbing of the stummel was done with no effect on the supposed grime.

    Back at the workbench I got a good look at the two areas of concern.  The charred rim would require topping and then some.

    The rest of the stummel looked pretty good.

    An alcohol wipe confirmed that there was no finish on the stummel.

    I took the stummel to the counter where I laid a piece of 320 sandpaper flat on the counter.

    Using a figure 8 motion I topped the rim  removing the charred wood.

    The results of the topping are shown in the photo below.

    The charred area below the rim was lightly filed and I attempted to blend the filing to minimize the noticeability of the filing.

    The dark streak on the lower right shank was some strange stain on the briar.  

    I have had good results using a saturated oxalic acid solution to bleach stains from wood and thought it might be useful for both the rim and the shank.

    The oxalic acid was applied to the darkened areas with a cotton swab and allowed to sit for 20 minutes.

    After the initial 20 minutes I applied more oxalic acid to the entire stummel.  This was allowed to sit for another 30 minutes.

    After the stummel was scrubbed a third time using Murphy Oil Soap and a copious amount of rinsing the stummel was dried using the cotton hand towel.  Once dry the results of the oxalic acid were observed.  The stummel looked better but not as good as I had hoped.

    The darkened areas had been lightened but they remained darker than the surrounding briar.

    I started repairing the blemish on the bottom of the shank.  I know E. Wilke was proud of their “no putty” but that pit was unacceptable to me.

    I applied brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) to the pit with a fly tying bodkin.

    A dental scraper was used as a spoon to scoop a small amount of briar dust and place it on the wet CA.

    The back of the dental scraper was used to press the briar dust into the wet CA in the pit.

    Additional brown CA was applied to the pit after the dust had been brushed off.

    A second application of brown CA was applied once the first had cured.

    After the second application had cured and set up, I filed the fill using a small flat file to remove the new fill material and smooth the surface.

    The new fill was then sanded with a 400 grit sanding sponge.

    I sanded the entire stummel with a 400 sanding sponge followed by a sanding with a 600 sponge.  I was looking for additional spots which might require CA filling.  I found none.

    I figured the best way to conceal the darker areas caused by the charring or staining was to give the stummel a contrast dye.  I thought a black undercoat of dye might be the perfect camouflage.  I covered the stamp with painters tape hoping this would prevent the dye from dying the stamp area.  It didn’t.

    The stems were removed from deox and allowed to drip excess solution back into the jar.

    The E. Wilke stem was vigorously rubbed with a coarse shop rag to remove both remaining solution and oxidized vulcanite.

    The stem was then scrubbed with Soft Scrub cleanser applied to make-up pads.  This removed more oxidized vulcanite.

    Below you can see the E. Wilke and the other restoration victim.  Both stems had been oiled with mineral oil after their Soft Scrub ordeals.

    The dye kit was gathered.  It consisted of  Fiebing’s Black Leather Dye, a cork to keep dye from the tobacco chamber, a lighter and a pipe cleaner as an applicator.

    The Fiebing’s Dye was applied and flamed, burning away the alcohol solvent of the dye and fixing it to the briar.

    The stummel was then rinsed with 99% isopropyl alcohol and wiped with a paper towel.

    Back at the workbench the results of the black dye can be seen.  The dye penetrated the softer grained briar more than the harder grain.  A light sanding removed the outermost layer of briar revealing lighter and darker areas due to penetration depth.

    Below is a photo of the sanded stummel.

    The stem and stummel were then sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 400-3500 grit.  The stummel was wiped with an alcohol dampened make-up pad between each sponge while the stem was rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a paper towel between sanding sponges.

    The stem and stummel were then worked with micro-mesh pads from 4000-12000.  Again stummel wiping with an alcohol make-up pad between micro-mesh pads was done.  Between pads the stem was runned with Obsidian Oil and wiped with a paper towel.

    The pipe was then taken to the buffer where it received several coats of carnauba wax.

    The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth.

    Overall, I am very pleased at how well this E. Wilke pipe turned out.   Though it is likely not an example of the highest quality E. Wilke pipe of the company’s heyday, still is a lovely little piece.  The contrast stain did a good job of concealing the blemishes that the pipe accumulated over the years of use.  The stem polished up nicely and the glossy black accentuated the light and dark grain from the contrast dye.  The thick walls and the cheekiness that they provide are even more pronounced with the finished pipe than they were when it arrived and I think it is far more attractive now.  The dimensions of the Carlyle Oval Shank Dublin are:

    Length:  5.00 in./ 127.00 mm.

    Weight:  1.08 oz./ 30.62 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.42 in./  36.07 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.06 in./ 26.92 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.72 in./ 18.29 mm.

    Outside Diameter:  1.58 in./ 40.13 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover. 

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    Below are some photos of the finished E Wilke Squat Apple.

    .

  • A Carlyle Oval Shank Dublin (by Comoy’s) Restoration

    March 27th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    Background

    I have good news and bad news:  The good news is that this pipe’s provenance is pretty certain – it is a Comoy’s second. As seen here from pipephil.eu:  

    (Can-Car — Pipes : Logos & Markings)

    This brings me to the bad news, the bad news is that it is a Comoy’s.   I suppose I should explain, Comoy’s is really a collaboration between the Chapuis and Comoy’s families and centered in two locations, the Saint-Claude region in France and London, England.  There are many names involved over a 150 year period.  The various people are related and moved between countries over the years.  This is why I said, “The bad news”.  It is because I find this all confusing.  

    In a nutshell Henri Comoy was from the Sainte-Claude region.  As many folks did, he followed his father as a wood turner.  He ends up married and living in London, making pipes from briar.  His wife’s sister provides the connection to the Chapuis name.  His wife’s sister, Fanny Beausire was married to Charles Pierre Chapuis, a Swiss watchmaker.  They had seven children, three of which are important to this story; Charles Chapuis dies leaving the children partially orphaned, Emile (21 years old when Charles dies), Louis (19) and Charles (15).  Louis and Charles are adopted by their Aunt Anna, Henri Comoy’s wife, and moved to London.  Here they are taught the Comoy family business of pipe making alongside Henri and Anna’s two biological children, Paul and Adrien Comoy.  The four boys, Louis Chapuis, Charles Chapuis, Paul Comoy and Adrien Comoy are treated equally regarding inheritance within the business.  

    This leads to the start of the start of the company.  “H. Comoy & Co. Ltd was established in 1914. It was a partnership between Henri, his sons Adrien and Paul and his nephews Louis and Charles.” (Comoy’s – Pipedia)  By 1921 the company expands to the United States.  Now the adopted brothers remain in contact with the older Emile.  He is in the pipe business as well selling pipes wholesale in Paris, according to the pipedia.org article.  In the early 1922 Emile, Louis and Charles started another company, Chapuis-Comoy, in Saint-Claude.  This company serves the French market for briar pipes.  I know, this nutshell is becoming larger and larger. Old man Henri Comoy died in 1924 and within 5 years H. Comoy & Co. Ltd became part of Cardogan Investments Ltd.  In 1928 the two pairs of brothers created Chacom in Saint-Claude.  Now Chacom can have the French and European market while Comoy’s deals with England and the US.  Here is where things get weird, both companies use the same shape charts thus all the overlap in Comoy’s and Chacom shapes.  

    As pipedia explains, “In 1929, H. Comoy Co. Ltd became part of Cadogan Investments Ltd, created by the Oppenheimer Group, which at that time already owned a number of very important and well-known brands such as Maréchal & Ruchon (GBD), Civic & Co Ltd, BBB de Frankau, Sina, Verguet Frères, Orlik and Loewe.” (Comoy’s – Pipedia).  Comoys are apparently allowed to manage their own business affairs and continue with business as usual.  Of course there is an “UNTIL” coming.  Comoys was left alone until the 1980s when Cardogan took over and quality went downhill. 

    Chacom had their ups and downs as well, with mergers with La Bruyere in 1932.  Then the war, the recovery, the reassertion or market share, the regaining of their own name Chacon from Le Bruyere and eventual integration with Ropp.  For the much longer version please see some of the following links:

    Chacom – Pipedia

    Comoy’s – Pipedia

    Comoy — Pipes : Logos & Markings

    Document: GBD Comoy Chacom — Pipes: Logos & Markings 

    Hopefully this all kind of explains why CARLYLE from the pipephil.eu photos is an English maker while the pipe is sporting a country of manufacture (COM) stamp clearly saying FRANCE.  I told you it was confusing…

    The Restoration

    After all that background it’s good to get back to the easy stuff, for me anyway – the restoring.  The Carlyle began the procedure with a clean denim piece on the workbench. 

    The airway of the stem was cleaned with bristle pipe cleaners and 95% ethyl alcohol.

    The stem was then lightly sanded with a 500 grit sanding sponge and a pipe cleaner was inserted into the tenon to act as a hanger for suspending the stem in Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer solution (hereafter called deox).

    The stem was immersed in deox for two hours.

    The reaming tools were gathered.

    The PipNet and the #1 blade was only used to clear the bottom of the tobacco chamber as this chamber was quite conically bored.  The #2 blade did most of the work reaming the chamber.  The Smoingpipes Low Country Reamer and the General triangular scraper were used for some light clean-up work.  The chamber was then sanded with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel.

    The tobacco chamber showed no signs of heat damage or charring.

    Another view of the chamber, below.

    Scrubbing with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush came next.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    Returning to the workbench the stummel was wiped with 95% ethyl alcohol on a couple of make-up pads.  This removed some of the finish and stain.

    I then wiped the stummel with acetone on new make-up pads.  This removed more of the clear coat finish and more stain.

    With the clear coat removed, I started picking the old fill material from the largest of the three fills.  Additional acetone was used to soften the old fill material for picking with a fly tying bodkin.

    There was one other large fill at the front of the bowl.  This too was picked out.

    The airway of the shank was cleaned using a dental scraper, bristle pipe cleaners and cotton swabs along with a healthy dose of 95% ethyl alcohol.

    The stummel was then lightly sanded to reveal any additional areas where old fills may have been hiding.

    The depth of the front fill was minimal and was filled with brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue).

    The two pits on the right side were deeper.  These were filled with brown CA applied into the pit with a fly tying bodkin.  

    Briar dust was then scooped with a dental scraper and a small pile placed on top of the wet CA.  The back of the dental scraper was used to press the dust into the CA filled depression.

    The briar dust cured almost immediately with the briar dust.  The resulting fill was then filed with a small flat file.

    The front fill received a second coat of brown CA. and was filed after it had cured.

    The new fills had slightly lighter areas around them from the filing.  I wanted to blend the color to match the existing stain.

    I first used a Cherry Furniture Touch-up Marker and allowed the stain to dry.  The area was lightly wiped with a make-up pad moistened with 95% ethyl alcohol.

    The color was close but not close enough.  I used the Mahogany marker over the area, allowed it to dry and re-wiped with the alcohol.  I was happy with the results of the second stain.

    The stamp was taped with painters tape for protection from the sanding.

    After two hours, the stem was allowed out of deox.  The drip-dry-o-matic (patent pending) was deployed to allow excess solution to join it’s jarred brethren.

    I used a coarse shop rag to vigorously rub the remaining deox solution from the stem.  This removes some of the oxidized vulcanite from the surface.

    Back at the workbench I used Soft Scrub cleanser on make-up pads.  This removed a great deal of the oxidized vulcanite.

    And, some more.

    The COM stamp and the “maybe” logo were taped with painters tape to protect them from sanding.

    Ready for sanding.

    The stem and stummel were sanded intact to avoid the rounding of the edges of each part.  A series of sanding sponges from 400-3500 grit.  Between each sponge I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad moistened with alcohol.  The stem was rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a paper towel.

    The painters tape was removed and wiped with alcohol to remove any adhesive remaining.  The pipe was worked with micro-mesh pads from 4000-12000.  Again, between each pad I wiped the stummel and stem between each pad as with the sanding sponges except in place of mineral oil I used Obsidian Oil.

    The stummel received a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm. The balm was allowed to stay on the stummel for 15 minutes.

    The remaining Restoration Balm was wiped from the stummel using an inside out athletic sock.

    The pipe was then taken to the buffer where the pipe was given several coats of carnauba wax.

    The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth.

    I am developing a new appreciation for the oval shank.  It is a feature that provides a more robust feel in the hand while retaining a more elegant contour in profile.  I am sure the extra briar also provides additional strength for those who are a bit more hard on pipes.  This oval shank Carlyle Dublin restored in beautiful fashion.  The briar grain grain is lovely and the factory staining was preserved.  The stem lost the oxidation without losing the FRANCE stamp though I would have liked to see the factory fresh top stem logo but that appears to have been lost years ago to wear and buffing.  Overall I am very pleased at how well this pipe turned out.   The dimensions of the Carlyle Oval Shank Dublin are:

    Length:  5.43 in./ 99.57 mm.

    Weight:  1.20 oz./ 18.71 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.84 in./  38.10 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.57 in./ 27.69 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.74 in./ 16.00 mm.

    Outside Diameter:  1.35 in./ 28.45 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover. 

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    Below are some photos of the finished Carlyle Oval Shank Dublin.

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