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  • A Micoli Restoration

    August 5th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    The best man in my wedding is an artist.  The creativity that artists have is an innate ability to create beauty from nearly anything.  I was always amazed by this superpower.  When I first saw this Micoli pipe I thought, “that carver is an artist, how in the world did he come up with that?”  I merely have the ability to repair the toll of time on things of beauty and a sense of practicality.  Though this Micoli pipe is an incredible pipe to look at, the carvings do not meet my sense of practicality.  Aesthetic beauty and useful practicality are often at odds and this pipe strikes me as an example of that conflict.  For whatever reason; desire to work on a Micoli pipe, infatuation with a truly artistic creation or “dang, that’s cool”, I had to have this pipe when I saw it on eBay.  After the winning of the auction the waiting for arrival began. Five days seemed to go more slowly than usual, perhaps I have discovered a remedy for aging? The relatively short trip from Saint Charles, Illinois to the wilds of southeast Nebraska was done and below is what the pipe looked like upon its arrival.  The only stampings were a signature style “Micoli” over “Fre…” I could not make-out the last letters of the lower word.

    I wasn’t and still am not sure if the stem is intended to be a reverse tenon push stem or a threaded tenon.  Maybe the artist designed it to be either or.  The pipe looked to be in better condition than the eBay photos indicated.  Minimal oxidation of the stem, good news.  A nice polish to the smooth sections, I do hope that is just a very thick carnauba wax…  A slight cake in the bowl, more good news.  This looked like an “easy button” restoration. 

    Background

    Micoli has an active website:  Micoli is a master carver of freehand pipes

    According to the site,

    “Micoli or “Mic” as he is called by family and friends, has aquired the reputation of being one of the best  American pipe makers. He is appreciated by the most prominent of collectors. Educated in the arts, He started this adventure in 1968. His craftsmanship and artistry were dedicated to over twenty years of full time pipe making, with no two alike. In the last thirty years plus he has been partially retired and limits carving to a few pipes a month. ​He has continued sculpting animals and other subjects fom brair and other rare woods.  

    Micoli is now 79years” (About Micoli)

    That woud make chronological sense, I was born in 1966 and if he started carving in/after college he’d be about 79.  Yeah, math works.  The site has photographs of a lot of Micoli carved pipes.  These were fun to look through though I did not find one similar to the pipe in hand.  That is not too surprising since no two pipes look alike and the various styles are a veritable kaleidoscope of shapes.

    For further information I checked pipephil.eu.  Here I found the following quote and images:

    “Artisan: Robert Eugene (Mic) Burns carved pipes at least from the early 1970’s. Last news about him dates from November 2001. His son Ryan Burns stated in a forum his father is still (2009) very much alive and is in excellent health.

    The deeply Dremmel carved pipes are typical of R. Burns’ work.

    Micoli’s second: E. Oslo” (Mi-Mk — Pipes: Logos & Markings)

    The final search was at pipedia.org, where the below was taken along with several photographs.  Hmm, it sounds remarkably like his own website.  Darn these lazy writers…  Oh wait, I’m one of them.

    “Micoli or “Mic” as he is called by family and friends, has acquired the reputation of being one of the best American pipe makers. He is appreciated by the most prominent of collectors. Educated in the arts, He started this adventure in 1968. His craftsmanship and artistry were dedicated to over twenty years of full time pipe making, with no two alike. In the last twenty years plus he has been partially retired and limits carving to a few pipes a month. ​He has continued sculpting animals and other subjects from brair and other rare woods. Micoli is now 72 years old.​

    Micoli 01.jpg
    Micoli 01b.jpg
    Micoli 03a.jpg
    Micoli 03b.jpg
    Micoli 05.jpg
    Micoli 05a.jpg
    Micoli 13.jpg
    Micoli 13a.jpg

    The signature of Burns’ work is the specific way of rustication he worked out using a Dremel power tool. (The Dremel had been introduced to pipemaking by Teddy Knudsen.)

    Burns / Micoli also made the E. Oslo pipes. These can be considered his entry-level pipes as he did not carve these from scratch but rather purchased run-of-the-mill standard shapes from Italian and English pipe makers, such as Savinelli and Comoy’s, and dremeled his signature magic on them. The pipe shown was very likely a Savinelli 111 KS.”

    • Example and detail, courtesy Doug Valitchka
    Micoli01.jpg
    Micoli07.jpg
    Micoli08.jpg
    Micoli15.jpg

    (Micoli – Pipedia)

    The Restoration

    I took the pipe parts to the workbench and gave them a cleaned denim piece.  

    Looking over the pipe with a more critical eye, I again inspected the tobacco chamber.  I hoped that the darkened rim was just a deposit of lava and that there was no charred wood beneath.    

    I reattached the stem and tried the draw.  Yikes!  There was barely any airflow.  I pulled the stem and tried it.  The stem was clear.  I looked into the mortise.

    I heard Jed Clampitt saying, “What in tarnation?” in my mind.  I grabbed a thin forceps and grabbed at the obstruction.  A wadded up abraded piece of plastic came out.  It looked as if someone had been trying to get it out for some time and had scratched and pushed the piece of plastic into the airway.  “Odd”, I thought.

    The air way was now open and had a normal draw.

    The ream team was gathered.

    The PipNet #3 and #4 blades got used but not much.  The wide bowl of this pipe was cleaned out with a little help from both the Smokingpipes Low Country reamer and the General triangular scraper.

    Below is the condition of the reamed tobacco chamber.

    I sanded the interior of the chamber with 320 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel.  The briar showed no signs of heat damage.

    I ran an alcohol dipped pipe cleaning into the shank and it went straight in but not into the bowl. Hmm, that is odd.  “What is this little depression in the tobacco chamber and why is it wet?”

    And why are there two airways?  Those two pipe cleaners were not going through the same hole.

    Here you can see two pipe cleaners in the bowl.  Well, one complete pipe cleaner and the emerging tip of the second.

    The correct airway was a bit difficult to get a pipe cleaner into with the Delrin tenon screwed into place.  I bent the tip of the pipe cleaner downward and it would go through.

    Below you can see a slightly bent pipe cleaner going through the airway.

    It is kind of hard to make out in the photo below but if you use your imagination you can see two airways.

    I used a length of aluminum tube which was 0.13 inches in outside diameter to go through the drillings.  This was done so I could envision what in the heck was going on inside this shank.  It was weird, there were two airways.  One was only accessible if the Delrin tenon was removed.  This one angled down from the shank-end and to the bottom of the tobacco chamber.  The other drilling was straight inline with the Delrin tenon if it was screwed in place.

    The below three photos with overlaid diagrams are representations of what I think the airway was like and how I thought repairs might proceed.

    The first diagram is how the carver drilled the stummel.  The angle is not precise nor probably to scale but for visualization purposes it works.

    This second diagram shows what was done to the stummel by a previous owner.  The angle here would follow the straight line entrance of a pipe cleaner or drill bit inserted through the threaded reverse tenon if it were screwed into the shank.

    This photo shows the stummel with the threaded Delrin reverse tenon fitting.

    This last diagram attempts to show my idea of a repair.  I thought that I could use a disposable pipette to deliver J-B Weld epoxy and fill the incorrectly drilled hole, shown in dark gray, into the existing upper drilling.  This would fill the hole and seal off the incorrect airway.  The epoxy is inert and heat resistant.  I would sand any epoxy that extruded into the tobacco chamber.  This seemed like a grand idea if I could get the thick viscous epoxy to flow enough to use a pipette to deliver it into the hole.

    For this plan to work the epoxy would have to be drawn up into a disposable pipette.  I had two types of pipettes on hand, one with a larger diameter tip and one that was smaller.  I thought the larger would work.  If it did not, I figured I could cut the tip back a little and make the opening wider.

    I needed to be careful not to get any epoxy onto the threads or into the correct airway.  I made a tool to clear the correct airway of any stray epoxy by plugging the end of a 0.14 inch, outside diameter brass tube with a cotton swab.  

    I snipped off the extra cotton and hardened it with a drop of thin cyanoacrylate (CA).  Once hard I sanded the CA hardened cotton smooth.

    I had a plan now to see if the pipette would be able to deliver the epoxy.  I measured out the epoxy.

    Then mixed the two parts for 30 seconds as per instructions.

    The moment of truth, would the plan work or force a “Plan-B” into effect?  Success.  The epoxy did flow up into the pipette.  Very slowly and probably only for about 5 minutes but it was working.

    Using the bright workbench lights I was able to see into the mortise of the shank, insert the pipette into the hole and deliver some of the epoxy.  This was repeated a few times before the epoxy became too thick to be drawn into the pipette.  The below photo shows the wet epoxy filled hole at the 10:00-11:00 position.

    I checked the correct airway with the “brass correct airway clearing tool” (I wonder if there is a market for these?).  It came through clean and epoxy free.

    Next I cleaned the threads of the epoxy which I had carefully and purposely spilled using acetone on a cotton swab.  Okay, that isn’t true.  I did not purposely spill anything.

    I set the stummel in a pipe holder and let the epoxy set-up for about 20 minutes.  This was done so the epoxy would not flow out of the hole.  Gravity can, on occasion, be your friend.  

    Once the epoxy was set-up, I held the stummel up to the light so that I could see light coming through the correct airway.  Again, success.  I thought that I had better quit.  This many successful outcomes usually indicates a major FAIL in the near future.  The pipe was set aside for 12+ hours giving the epoxy time to cure completely.

    The next day I sanded the spot where epoxy had come through the hole into the tobacco chamber.  I thought that I might have to use a bowl coating to cover this slight imperfection.

    I also disassembled the “brass correct airway clearing tool” by dipping the tip in acetone and pulling the cotton swab with a pliers.  Weird how my marketing team has not gotten back to me about the prospects of a nationwide campaign for  “brass correct airway clearing tools”.  O, yeah, I forgot, I don’t have a marketing team.

    It was time to get this restoration back on track.  The whole “easy button” theme had been severely violated.  The stem was cleaned with ethyl alcohol dipped pipe cleaners and cotton swabs.  All one each of them.  You can tell I am not used to clean pipes.

    The stummel was taken to the sink for a scrubbing with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    Back at the workbench the stummel was wiped with a cotton ball dipped in 99% ethyl alcohol.  Very little color came off on the cotton indicating that the stummel was free of any finish or wax.

    I was very happy to see that the rim had not been charred much by use and that the lava coating the surface was mostly removed.  

    The stummel was sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 400-3500 grit.  Between each sponge the briar was wiped with an alcohol dampened cotton ball to remove sanding debris.

    The stem was also sanded with a series of sanding sponges.  Between sponges the stem was rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a paper towel.

    The stem and stummel were worked with micro-mesh pads 4000-12000.  I don’t know why there was no photograph documenting the micro-meshing of the stummel.  Perhaps the photography team is off cavorting with the marketing team.

    The stummel was then given a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm while the stem was coated with Before and After Hard Rubber Balm.  Both the stem and stummel were then abandoned because the fishing team needed a guide.

    Okay, there isn’t really a fishing team but there was fishing.  The next day I wiped the remaining Before and After balms from the pipe with an inside out athletic sock.

    I wanted to give the smooth parts of this pipe a nice coating of carnauba wax but I did not want the wax to gum-up the carvings.  My solution was to mask off the carvings with masking tape.

    The smooth shiny parts received their carnauba coatings and they looked marvelous.

    The last steps were to remove the masking tape and to hand buff the pipe with a microfiber polishing cloth.  That made the shinies even shinier.

    This Micoli was a treat to work on.  Sure, the whole repair of a second airway was a pain but I learned that epoxy can be applied via a disposable pipette.  Besides, I think the repair was a fun challenge and keeps my old brain working on problems that need solving.  The grain on this Micoli is nearly flawless. Perhaps he carved away flaws but I do not think that was why he carved like he did.  I think the artist was just being an artist and I got to share in that process.  The stem polished-up beautifully.  There is one tiny metal inclusion in the vulcanite that is reminiscent of the recycled rubber from wartime pipes.  Overall the pipe is a whimsical adventure of flowing lines.  I am not sure if this piece will enter my personal collection or if it will go on to another owner.  I’ll just have to see if someone reaches out to me about purchasing it.  Pipes like politicians are nearly all for sale.  The dimensions of this Micoli are:

    Length:  6.08 in./ 154.43 mm.

    Weight:  1.43 oz./ 40.54 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.87 in./  47.50 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.43 in./ 36.32 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.88 in./ 22.35 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.54 in./ 39.12 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the finished Israeli Bent Billiard.

    Yeah, I still don’t know what that second word is.  I did email The carver via his website but have not heard back.

  • An Israeli Bent Billiard Pipe Restoration for the Real American Pipe Smokers (RAPS) Facebook group

    July 29th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    This is the third, though not likely final, restoration of a pipe for the Real American Pipe Smokers (RAPS) Facebook (FB) group.  This pipe was sent to me by a fellow member who had asked if I’d be willing to restore some pipes to be given away to RAPS members.  I love to work on pipes that I find interesting and doing so for a good cause is even better.  The three pipes arrived and were indeed interesting.

    The top and bottom pipes were blogged about last week and were a Porcelain Apple and a J. Rettke, Feel free to click those names for links to the respective restorations.  The final pipe is a large bent billiard with a chimney-like bowl.  The only identifying stamp of the pipe was ISRAEL on the underside of the shank.  Below are some photos of the pipe before I began work on it.

    The stem had been chewed on a great deal this normally would indicate a pipe that had been smoked a great deal.  However the tobacco chamber appeared fairly cake free.  The rim did have a layer of lava and the rim edges showed signs of being knocked against hard rough surfaces.  Perhaps I had come across a heavily smoked pipe which had been owned by someone who appreciated a clean pipe?  There was also a dreaded clear coat finish on this pipe which would have to go.  I know, my job is to restore, but I have a disdain for heavy clear coat finishes.  The stem did look salvageable and I hadn’t restored one that was this chewed up for a while.  Oh, the things I consider fun…  I was worried about the ISRAEL stamp surviving the finish removal.  Oftentimes the stamping is done on top of the clear coat and the briar below does not preserve the stamp very well. 

    Background

    The number of Israeli pipe making companies is pretty easy to count, one.  According to pipedia.org:  

    “Not much is known about Israel’s sole pipe factory though it’s reported to have operated quite successfully on international markets.

    Beside the brand “Shalom” the mainstay brand was Alpha – especially well known in the USA. Alpha was popular for a range of fresh and unusual shapes. Series (afaik): Caprice (s), Citation (s), Classic (b), Pedestal (s), Regent, Region (b), Rex (s). (1)

    (1) (b) = blasted, (s) = smooth

    Alpha also produced at least one of its Citation forms for Carey’s “Magic Inch” series.

    Mentioned in context with Shalom Pipe Factory was a Danish pipemaker named ‘Muki Liebermann’, who later lived and worked in the USA. Muki is known for his unique briar bending technique and his original shapes that gave inspiration to many of the most praised Danish pipemakers.

    Shalom was taken over by Robert L. Marx of New York City, later Sparta, NC, then of Mastercraft. Mastercraft continued the Alpha pipes introducing new lines.” (Shalom Pipe Factory – Pipedia)

    Also at the bottom of the pipedia.org entry is a blurb about other Israeli brands.  It is not clear that these are lines which Shalom produced or if they are separate companies.  I assume that they are Shalom lines.  

    “Other brands from Israel:

    • Andersen
    • Burl King (Best known for their Danish-looking “thumbhole” pipes with plateau tops.)
    • Fader (Presumably for Fader’s Tobacco Shop, Baltimore. Also known: Fader – Made In Denmark.)
    • Goliath Briar (huge pipes)
    • Krisson
    • Mastersen
    • Trophy” (Shalom Pipe Factory – Pipedia)

    The Restoration

    As usual the pipe got herself a cleaned denim piece, more for the protection of the workbench than for the pipe’s comfort.

    I decided to work on the stem first as I thought it would require the most effort.  The top was lightly chewed but had pretty significant calcium deposits.

    The bottom side was really chomped on and would need to have black cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) built up and then reshaped.

    I started with a cleaning of the stem with bristle pipe cleaners dipped in 99% ethyl alcohol.

    The calcium deposits were scraped off with a sharp pocket knife.

    The top and bottom were then filed with a small flat file to remove most of the teeth marks.

    Rubberized black CA was used to build up material in the indentation on the bottom surface and button.

    The built-up material was filed flat.

    Additional black CA was added to allow for smoothing the underside of the stem.

    This built-up area was then filed smooth and blended with the existing stem.

    The whole area was sanded to check the blending of the vulcanite to the CA seams.  It did not look bad.  I had not started on the button as of yet.

    To better blend the seams I applied a coating of thin CA.  This penetrates any tiny crack of seams and would further blend the two materials with finer grade sanding.

    The stem was sanded with a series of sanding sponges from grits 400-3500.  Between each sponge I rubbed the stem with mineral oil and wiped it with a paper towel.  The last thing I did, at this stage, was to apply a coating of Mark Hoover’s Before and After Hard Rubber Balm.  Mark sent me this product to try and I think it does a very nice job at preserving a polished stem and keeping oxidation at bay during normal pipe smoking.

    I turned my attention to the stummel.  The reaming tools were gathered and included the PipNet, Smokingpipes Low Country Reamer and the General triangular scraper.

    All three tools were used and the Kleen-Reem reamer was pulled into the fray because of the bowl depth and slightly conical boring.

    The rim looked like it had suffered frequent hard knocks on concrete or stone surfaces. This roughened rim also had a coating of lava.  Scraping lava from a flat surface is pretty easy but scraping lava from a rough surface is a different matter.

    I tried to use the traditional scraping method of using saliva to moisten and soften the lava then scrape it with a sharp pocket knife.  With the surface being as rough as it was, I met with limited success.

    Normally a light topping of the rim would be done with 320  sandpaper but this rim was rounded and dented.  Due to the very deep bowl, I decided that there was plenty of briar there and filing the rim would be a faster was to smooth the surface.

    One smoothed with a flat file I topped the rim with 320 followed by 400 grit sandpaper.

    The shank was then cleaned with several bristle pipe cleaners and cotton swabs dipped in 99% ethyl alcohol.

    Next up was the scrubbing of the stummel with a nylon brush and undiluted Murphy Oil Soap.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    I wiped the stummel with a cotton ball wetted with ethyl alcohol.  The alcohol has no effect on the clear coat.  Bah.  In the next couple of photos you can see where the finish had been worn off the briar.

    Since the ethyl didn’t affect the finish, I tried acetone.  It did soften the finish but very slowly and with a great deal of work.  I decided to give the whole stummel a bath in acetone.  The old jar was not large enough so I had to make use of a wide mouth pint jar acetone bath.

    I let the stummel soak for over an hour in the acetone before removing it.  Apologies for the poor focus.  I’d blame the nitrile glove but I was only wearing one.  There was still a lot of finish remaining on the briar.  I thought, “why the heck did they apply the finish so thick?”

    The good news was that the soaking made the old fills easy to remove.  Well, easy if I moved quickly before the acetone evaporated.

    There were several deep pits in the briar.

    The pits were pretty evenly distributed over the whole stummel and as I said, deep.

    At least they didn’t use the bright pink fill that you often find on old pipes.  Below are a few of the remnants of fill material.

    I sanded the remaining finish from the briar using sanding sponges that I usually never would use on a pipe, 180 and 280 grit.  The little 320 sanding sponge just couldn’t cut through the thick hard finish.  You can also see the depth of the pits on the shank in the below photo.

    Eventually the stummel was sanded with 320 and 40 grit sanding sponges and the fills were refilled with briar dust and brown CA.  I could have sworn that I photographed the filling of the pits but I failed to.

    I also sanded the interior of the tobacco chamber and discovered some pits there as well. Imperfections in a chamber like this can cause the briar to burn and smolder with the tobacco.  That extra surface area is something I wanted to eliminate.

    I mixed up a small batch of black J-B Weld epoxy to press into the pits within the tobacco chamber.  I used the mini popsicle stick as an applicator to “squeegee”  the epoxy into the pits.

    After the epoxy had dried for 24 hours I would sand away the excess.

    With the epoxy hardening I turned my attention to redoing the color scheme of the pipe.  The plan was to use a base coat of black Fiebing’s Leather Dye.  This would be buffed and lightly sanded, dying the softer grained briar black while removing the outer surface of the harder, less susceptible briar.  Next a coating of Mahogany, again lightly sanded and finally a top coat of orange.  The goal was to have a pipe with dark grain highlighted with an orange mahogany.  It worked well in my imagination and it should conceal all those dark spots that were the new fills.

    The first step, black Fiebing’s looked as expected.

    After buffing with a rouge buffing compound and wiping with ethyl alcohol cotton balls the black had indeed penetrated the softer grain.

    A light sanding brought out the lighter grained areas more to my liking.

    Next came the mahogany dye.

    Below is the mahogany after a light sanding and alcohol pad wipe.

    Finally the orange top coat.

    I discovered why the Israelis had applied such a thick clear coat to this stummel while I was sanding it.  The briar was extremely soft and very difficult to work with.  Sanding would remove one scratch and create two more.  I decided that maybe a couple coats of Danish Oil would help to toughen the briar.

    Below you can see how I hung the stummel on a vice for drying.  I applied three coats of Danish oil to the pipe and the stummel looked like it had never even seen a drop of Danish oil.  Good lord this briar was a pain to work with.

    The final steps to the restoration included a trip to the buffer for several coats of carnauba was and a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth.  It was at this point that I realized how completely unhappy I was to have forgotten to bend the stem to what I thought was a better bend.

    I used a heat gun to heat the stem until it was pliable.  I then bent the stem to have a more attractive and more comfortable shape. 

    The stem before the bending:

    And, after the bend:

    Of course the heating and bending of the vulcanite ruined the finish of the fill work that I had done to the stem.  That was all resanded, a touch of thin CA, and some more sanding then rebuffed.  This then led to a rewaxing and re-hand-buffing.  Oh, for the love of transparency!  I could have left all my mistakes out but then I’d feel dirty or something…

    I think that the briar used in this Israeli pipe was the same or similar to the briar used by  Robert Marxman, in other words it is Algerian briar.  This briar is known to be a great smoking briar but is also known to be very difficult to work with due to the very soft nature of the wood.  Think about the heavily rusticated pipes of Marxsman or the Custom-bilts.  Those carving techniques were utilized to conceal the soft and imperfect grains of those pipes.  Though they are renowned as great smokers, this pipe has the same cinnamon-cardamomscent as my Marxmans.  The difficulties in trying to get this pipe to have a flawless smooth surface was difficult and I completely understand the Israeli’s use of a heavy masking clear coat.  In the end I think that I did maintain the color scheme of the original pipe though I did lose the stamping, ISRAEL.  The stem is another problem area.  This vulcanite just would not lend itself to the high gloss sheen that I strive for.  Overall I am sure this pipe will provide a great smoking experience but it does not have the aesthetic that I would be proud of.  I guess I should be happy by giving this undoubtedly a “basket pipe” a new lease on life and provide its next owner with a good quality pipe. 

    The dimensions of the Israeli Bent Billiard are:

    Length:  5.64 in./ 138.18 mm.

    Weight:  2.10 oz./ 42.24 g.

    Bowl Height: 2.35 in./  49.02 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 2.09 in./ 38.35 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.73 in./ 18.54 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.57 in./ 34.54 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the finished Israeli Bent Billiard.

    I included the next two photos to show what the finished tobacco chamber fills looked like after the sanding.

  • A Rettke Pipe Restoration for the Real American Pipe Smokers (RAPS) Facebook group

    July 24th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    This is the second pipe of the Real American Pipe Smokers Facebook (RAPS & FB) group set of pipes.  The first pipe of this series was a porcelain apple ().  All three pipes will be given away to RAPS members in the near future.  This one is a real treat for me to work with.  I love to play/work with pipes with what I call crazy gimmicks.  I’m sure that the inventors would call them “creative innovations”, or some-such, rather than crazy gimmicks – tomayto, tomahto.  Whatever you call them I find these creations fascinating.  Going all the way back to Charles Peterson’s 1890 patent for the reservoir in Peterson pipes.  Okay, that one is NOT a crazy gimmick but a heavenly inspired stroke of human genius.  

    (US519135A – Charles peterson – Google Patents)

    Hey, I have the title Nebraska Pete Geek, Certified Pete Geek (CPG) for a reason.  I think the heyday for these “innovations” was from the turn of the last century to the 1960s.  This was a time of far more people smoking pipes and a period where new materials, like plastics, were coming to market.  The age-old issues of heat, “impurities” and steam had a myriad of cures put forward by imaginative pipe inventors.

    Now, this Rettke pipe reminds me of two other pipes I have restored; the Samharra and the Needham pipes.  All three share a similar double drilled shank.

    (A SAMHARA Pipe Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek)

    (A Needham Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek)

    The Rettke is the most recent patent with a 1962 stamping.  OK, I’m getting ahead of myself again, let me get back on track.  This pipe was sent to me by RAPS member Jonathan “Fuzzy” Polak, along with two others.  The pipe was stamped with RETTKE over WASHINGTON MO. on the left bottom and PAT. JUNE 12 1962 on the right bottom.

    Below are some photos I took of the pipe prior to work beginning.

    Overall the pipe looked to be in very good condition.  The typical reaming and tobacco chamber sanding would be done.  A thorough cleaning of the interior and exterior.  Sanding of the stummel and a polishing of the stem.  The exciting part, for me, would be the exploration of the drillings involved with making this pipe.

    Background

    I started my research on Rettke pipes with a pipedia.org search on “rettke”.  Below is the short entry from that site.

    “J. Rettke, Washington MO, PAT. June 12 1962. The silver colored thumbscrew below the stem unscrews and is a 2⅜” corkscrew like device. The company is now gone having been purchased by Missouri Meerschaum. This odd looking pipe is made of briar and has a lower chamber with a metal condenser and an upper chamber that contains a filter. The smoke leaves the bowl thru the lower chamber then into the upper and out the stem. It smokes dry and cool. It has a large bowl.”

    (Rettke – Pipedia)  I could not read the above newspaper article even by zooming in.  

    The next search was using Google patent and searching for “Rettke 1962”.  This search turned up the original patent diagrams:

    (1498404097506821639-D0194174)

    My next search was for Steve Laug’s Rebornpipes.com.  Steve Laug did a Rettke restoration back in 2017 and contained links to the State Historical Society of Missouri.  I could not get this site to produce the same document or to even display the link Mr. Laug has in his blog post.  I will link Steve Laug’s blog here:  Restoring a J. Rettke Patent Pipe from Washington, Missouri | rebornpipes.  It is a very well written and researched piece that does contain a transcript of the newspaper article as well as several photographs of Julius Rettke and the pipe making process.

    My favorite quotes from the newspaper article are,

    “The work is done in Mr. Rettke’s basement of his home at Third and Market streets. He doesn’t work at it every day only when he feels like it. He likes to fish and that comes before his pipes in the summer.”

    I can completely understand the lack of enthusiasm for pipe work when fishing is taking a priority.

    And this quote:

    “Mr. Rettke received his patent on his pipe in 1962. What makes his pipe different from others on the market is the path the smoke takes from the bowl, and the passage of smoke through a twisted piece of aluminum, or a “whirler.” The smoke also travels through a standard filter in a standard hard-rubber stem. The “whirler” has a rubber tip that shows on the outside of the pipe under the stem. The “whirler” also can be used as a pipe cleaning tool. It pulls out easily for cleaning purposes.”  Here the newspaper article talks about a rubber tipped “whirler”.  That is how the whirler of my pipe is made.  The other Rettke pipes I saw in photos all had a knurled aluminum tip.  This little fact is mostly non-important, I just found it interesting.

    Now for the fun part:  How does this pipe work?  In the news article transcript it said, “four holes are bored.” under the photo of J. Rettke at the drill press.  I read that after I had done my exploration of the stummel and it was in near complete agreement of what I observed.

    Using the above photo, I overlaid some image features to indicate the “four” drillings.  

    Not to be a smart ass, but I think Mr. Rettke would agree that there were actually 5 drillings.  The final hole would be a hole at the bottom of the tobacco chamber connecting the airway to the lower chamber.  I’ll blame the reporter for the oversight and not Mr. Rettke.

    The Restoration

    The Rettke made its way to the workbench and received its complimentary denim piece.

    I started with cleaning the whirler, as Julius Rettke called it.  There was a shellac like coating from smoking residue on the aluminum indicating that it did actually work.

    The whirler was placed in a medicine cup with 99% ethyl alcohol and allowed to soak.

    Using the same alcoholI started cleaning the two shank airways or, the upper and lower chambers if you are thinking about my amazing diagram from above.

    This pipe had been used but not very heavily.  The cleaning went quickly.  Oh yeah, I also cleaned out the connecting airway with bristle pipe cleaners also dipped in ethyl alcohol.

    I gathered the ream team.

    The number 2 blades for the PipNet was the perfect size for most of the tobacco chamber,  Julius Rettke may have had a custom drill bit for boring the tobacco chamber as it appeared to have a flat button and a slight taper at the bottom quarter of the chamber.  According to the newspaper article he was a machinist for Missouri Meerschaum so who knows, maybe it was a custom built bit?  

    The photo below attempts to show the tobacco chamber’s shape after the reaming.

    The below photo of the sanded tobacco chamber better shows the flat bottomed chamber.  The chamber was sanded with 320 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel and with small pieces of sandpaper by hand.

    The sten was placed into Briarville’s Pipe Stem Oxidation Remover and allowed to soak overnight.

    The stummel was taken to the sink for a scrub with a nylon brush and undiluted Murphy Oil Soap.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.  The photo below shows how dirty the stummel actually was with the lather colored brown from dirt and maybe a bit of stain

    Back at the workbench the stummel was wiped with a cotton ball dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.  A little bit more stain was removed but the wood grain looked very good.  I also noticed that this pipe had no discernable fills.  Thank you, Mr. Rettke for selecting quality briar.

    I figured that I should give this pipe a full cotton/alcohol treatment due to the fact that there was additional length to the airway.  I didn’t want any of the previous tobacco smoked to influence future smoking.  I packed the tobacco chamber with cotton.

    I then packed cotton into the lower, connecting and upper chambers.  The cotton was then saturated with 99% ethyl alcohol and allowed to sit overnight.

    The next day I returned to the workbench to find the alcohol had done its job of dissolving smoking residues then depositing those residues onto the cotton as it evaporated.

    The cotton in both chambers looked as did the tobacco chamber.

    Upon removing all of the cotton, I could see that the cotton/alcohol treatment was both needed and successful at removing more yuck from the airway.

    I used alcohol dipped cotton swabs to clean the airways again.

    The stem was removed from the Briarville solution and vigorously rubbed with a coarse shop rag.

    I applied some Before and After Hard Rubber Balm to the stem to see how it would react with the vulcanite.

    This is how the pipe sat for several days.  I had a week-long trip to east Tennessee for family matters.  When I returned I had all the post-vacation abandoned house/yard nonsense and some fishing to catch up with.  I can say that the stem seemed to react positively to the time spent soaking up the Before and After Hard Rubber Balm.  The restoration got back on track with a topping of the rim.  3200 and 400 grit sandpaper were used with the pieces laid flat on a countertop.  I also used a wood sphere and 320 sandpaper to give the inner rim a slight bevel and conceal the two slightly charred spots.

    The pipe stem was reattached to the stummel for the sanding.  A series of sanding sponges in grits 320-3500 were used on both the stem and stummel.  Between each sponge I wiped the stemmel with a cotton ball wetted with ethyl alcohol while the stem was rubbed with Obsidian Oil and wiped with a paper towel.  These wipings were done to remove and sanding debris.

    After the sanding the pipe was worked with micro-mesh pads 4000-12000.  The same wiping between sponges was employed between pads.

    The pipe was then coated with Before and After Restoration balm.  This magic elixir was allowed to sit for 30 minutes.  After the sit time excess balm was wiped away with an inside out athletic sock.

    The pipe was then taken to the buffer for several coats of carnauba wax.

    I placed a drop of Before and After Hard Rubber Balm on the rubber end of the whirler and rubbed it in.  Yeah, this rubber is not “hard” but I figured that it would work well here too.

    The whirler was reinserted and the entire pipe was hand buffed with a microfiber polishing cloth which raised the shine on this lovely pipe.

    Of the many gimmick pipes I’ve had the pleasure of working on, I think this one would actually be an effective system for condensing steam.  It just makes sense.  That said, I did not try it out as it is intended to be a pipe given to a RAPS member.  I did try the draw both with and without a new Medico filter and both were very nice.  By the way, If you are interested in becoming a member give FB “The Real American Pipe Smokers” a look and join up with this interesting group of pipe smokers.  This J. Rettke pipe has very pretty grain on the left and decent birdseye’s on the right.  The Medico stem polished up well and can be used with or without a Medico filter.  Looking closely at the stamp on the pipe’s bottom, I do think that the stamping should look like the other examples of Rettke pipes and read J. RETTKE.  The J. is just too faint to be seen.  Overall this is a very nice and interesting historical pipe.  I would consider this an artisanal pipe from a time before artisanal was cool.

    The dimensions of the J. Rettke are:

    Length:  5.44 in./ 138.18 mm.

    Weight:  1.49 oz./ 42.24 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.93 in./  49.02 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.51 in./ 38.35 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.73 in./ 18.54 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.36 in./ 34.54 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the finished J. Rettke pipe.

  • A Porcelain Apple Restoration for the Real American Pipe Smokers (RAPS) Facebook group 

    July 22nd, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    In February of 2024 I joined the Facebook (FB) group Real American Pipe Smokers.  I found my first post in that group, below:

    I have found in this group a unique group of about 1,600 folks that are open to others and even accept pipe smokers who like Captain Black Grape.  Yeah, I know, crazy right.  Oh, by the way, I have a jar of Captain Black Grape and a dedicated MM cob for that aromatic delight.  The members are everything someone like me is looking for in a FB group, a bunch of friendly, funny, knowledgeable, giving individuals who put up with my nonsense.

    Anyway, I have been part of a cabal within the group who has been giving away some of the pipes I have restored and various other items like tobacco, tampers, rare bourbon samples, etc…  I was recently asked if I would be interested in restoring three pipes, donated by another member, which we could in turn give away to group members.  I said, “Sure”.  So the next three restorations will be those pipes.  Here is a photo taken of the three:

    The first pipe I decided to work on was the porcelain apple, thus the title and subject of this posting.  Below are some photos of the pipe before I did anything with it.

    This restoration looked to be more of a cleaning and stem polishing than a true restoration.  Some work would have to be done to improve the fit of the cork tenon.  Other than that there was not a lot that the pipe needed.  

    Background

    There really isn’t much I can say about this pipe without a whole bunch of imaginative conjecture.  This pipe has no identifying stamps or marks.  If I had to venture a guess, I’d say this pipe was made in Europe post WWII to 1980.  I have included some links for those interested in porcelain in general and a couple more specific to pipes below.

    Porcelain – Wikipedia

    List of porcelain manufacturers – Wikipedia

    Amsterdam Pipe Museum – Royal Goedewaagen,

    Catalogue | Porcelain Tobacco Pipes

    The Restoration

    The pipe began on the workbench with a cleaned denim piece.

    An Exacto knife kit was broken out for a little bit of cork trimming.

    The cork tenon had a rough and unsightly end.  This would need to be trimmed and sanded.

    The cork proved to be very dry and brittle leading me to think that it was probably at least 50 years old.

    With the cork trimmed and sanded, I cleaned out the stem using bristle pipe cleaners and 99% ethyl alcohol.  I had been using 95% ethyl and recently switched to this product.

    To address the dryness of the cork I got out the trusty old tea kettle and started some water on the stove.

    The cork was steamed for about 5 minutes.  This is precisely the amount of time it takes for the kettle’s whistle to become so annoying that you have to stop or become patient at Homicidal Acres Home for the Mentally Unstable.

    I then rubbed some petroleum jelly onto the cork to hopefully preserve the now swollen cork.  This did greatly improve the fit of the stem to the stummel.

    Next came the reaming of the tobacco chamber.  Porcelain is a hard material but in my mind, it is also brittle.  I’ve never broken a porcelain pipe during cleaning but I have only worked with one other so my experience was rather limited.  I chose to treat it more like a meerschaum pipe and only used the Smokingpipes Low Country reaming knife to scrape the chamber.

    A small amount of cake had been deposited within the chamber.

    Alcohol dipped cotton swabs removed the smaller particles and more soluble cake remnants.

    I used 3200 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel and a piece of sandpaper wetted with alcohol to sand the interior of the tobacco chamber.

    And some more sanding.  The carbon cake seemed to be well on its way to becoming diamond.

    I eventually called it quits on the sanding and thought that perhaps a cotton stuffing and alcohol soak treatment might soften the remaining cake and remove any residual “old tobacco” aroma.

    The tobacco chamber and shank were stuffed with cotton and then saturated with the 99% ethyl alcohol.

    The unglazed porcelain of the shank began to discolor from the alcohol.  I did not think this would be permanent with the evaporation of the alcohol.

    I compared my other example of a porcelain pipe to this pipe.  I was struck by the color difference.  My bent pipe has been smoked numerous times and it has taken on a very nice creamed coffee color.  It was originally a bright white as well.  The apple had obviously been smoked but had not experienced the same coloring.

    After allowing the alcohol to work its magic overnight, I removed the now dry cotton.  As you can see in the photo below very little smoking residue was absorbed by the cotton.  The discoloration on the shank had also disappeared.

    I turned my attention to the stem.  I filed the tooth chatter with a small flat file and lightly sanded the bite zone with a 320 grit sanding sponge.

    The stem was then worked with sanding sponges from 320-3500 grits.  Between each sponge I rubbed the stem with mineral oil and wiped it with a paper towel.

    The stem was then worked with micro-mesh pads in grits of 4000-12000.  Between these pads I rubbed the stem with Obsidian Oil and wiped with a paper towel.

    I rubbed a coating of Before and After Hard Rubber Balm onto the stem and let it sit overnight.

    The next day the  pipe was taken to the buffer where I applied several coats of carnauba wax to the stem and stummel.  The final step was to hand buff the pipe with a microfiber polishing cloth.

    I think the porcelain pipe is a unique piece of our hobby and history.  I only have a single example of my own and I have mixed feelings about it.  I do like how mine has colored over time, taking on a creamed coffee color.  I do worry about the fragility of the porcelain and my tendency to drop things.  This porcelain apple is a wonderful shape and size.  The exterior is a brilliant glossy white.  The tobacco chamber interior has discolored and I suppose that I could have been more aggressive with the restoration but I did not want to damage the porcelain.  My inexperience with this material kept me from “tough love” during the chamber restoration.  The expansion of the cork tenon worked well and the stem polished up very nicely.  The black and white of the piece is truly eye-catching.  The double holes at the bottom of the tobacco chamber provide an exceptionally smooth draw and I am sure that this pipe will treat its new owner with years of contemplative relaxation.  The dimensions of the Porcelain apple are:

    Length:  5.78 in./ 146.81 mm.

    Weight:  1.45 oz./ 41.11 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.64 in./  41.66 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.17 in./ 29.72 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.77 in./ 19.56 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.62 in./ 41.15 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the finished Porcelain apple.

  • A Custombilt Restoration and Stem Replacement

    July 17th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    I suppose some people dream about finding an original unsmoked CUstom-bilt pipe in an antique shop with a price of $5 hung delicately from a tag on a string.  That sounds to me more like a nightmare.  Well, the $5 would be okay, I guess but finding a Custombilt that didn’t need to have hours of work done sounds terrible.  They are fun pipes to work on and I am a restorer.  Sure, I am self-proclaimed lazy and like to work on an easy restoration on occasion but still, it is a restoration.  Bringing an abused greatly loved pipe back to life so that it can be greatly loved some more is what I look forward to.  And today’s restoration was just that.  This Custombilt had been smoked quite heavily in its day.  A three tier wedding cake had nothing on the cake in this pipe’s bowl.  This pipe came as part of a trio, 2 Custobilts and a third “look-alike” back in March.  This pipe wears a Custombilt, all one word no hyphen, over IMPORTED BRIAR stamped on the left shank.  No other stamps were found.  Below are some photos taken prior to work being done on the pipe.

    Now, you may think this looks like a nightmare.  For me, the stuff dreams are made of.  The pipe would need a replacement stem.  Remember when I said this was part of a trio?  The other Custombilt in the trio was a stem donor.  I am still not sure if that pipe can be saved but it certainly can donate its saddle stem for this recipient.  The bowl would definitely need a good reaming.  Here is to not finding any charring in that well used tobacco chamber.  The rim was quite lava encrusted, probably concealing a charred rim.  Some people call me a pessimist, I call myself a realistic optimist – always expecting the worst thus avoiding the horror of disappointment.

    Background

    Back on January 2, 2025 I did a blog on a Custom-Bilt pipe.  Below you will find the “Background” information from that restoration.  Being a proud Generation X slacker type, I will include it here rather than try to come up with something original.

    “The standard starting point for researching a pipe typically includes pipedia.org.  The query of Tracy Mincer, originator of Custom-Bilt, will take you to this brief entry:

    “Tracy Mincer started the original Custom-Bilt pipe company in 1934. In 1946, the name was changed to Custombilt after Mincer began an association with Eugene J. Rich, Inc. There were some big changes in advertising and distribution. The slogan “AS INDIVIDUAL AS A THUMBPRINT” began at this time as well.

    In the early 1950’s, Tracy Mincer developed severe financial problems that caused him to stop making the Custombilt, and he lost the name. n 1952, Mincer began a new pipe, The Doodler, that due to the holes in the bowl had to made primarily in a billiard type shape in three sizes. In the early 1950s, National Briar was turning the bowls for Mincer. Based upon the documentation, it appears that Mincer made the pipe until the mid 1960s, when National Briar Pipe Co., Inc. began making and selling the Doodler.

    Mincer died in 1964. Based upon the information provided, Mincer seemed to always have money, production, distribution and other problems. Mincer was probably a terrific craftsman but a very poor businessman and administrator. To me, Mincer sounds like your typical small business entrepreneur who always knew what was right and if you disagreed¼problems. Mincer always seemed to be on the brink of going out of business, not meeting payroll and so on.

    Claude Stuart purchased the Tracy Mincer Pipe Company and began making pipes using the Tracy Mincer stamp. Stuart finished nearly all the pipes produced, mostly carved and textured bowls and the occasional straight grain. Claude made the Tracy Mincer Pipe Company a moderate success. Stuart became ill and in 1990 The Tracey Mincer Pipe Company went out of business. Currently, Jim Tedesco owns the Tracy Mincer name.

    These interesting examples bellow are pipes made with the Tracy Mincer stamp. If you any additional information about these pipes, or can otherwise add to the history of this interesting pipe man, please add it here, or send it to sethile.pipes@gmail.com, and we can add it for you.” (Mincer – Pipedia).  

    There is a book written by William E. Unger, Jr.,Ph.D titled “As Individual As A Thumbprint”: The Custom-Bilt Pipe Story.  This book appears to be self published by Dr. Unger at The Graphic Touch, of Columbus, Ohio.  Printed in 2001 and bound with a black plastic spiral, the book states that the entire contents are “All rights reserved…without permission in writing from the author”.  Dr. Unger passed away January 1, 2013 (obituary:  https://www.legacy.com/us/obituaries/dispatch/name/william-unger-obituary?id=12197453) and the book is no longer in print.  This unfortunately means that I will not be including any quotes from the book.  We’ll see how I get around that, I guess.   I got lucky and purchased a copy from eBay for under $30 (with shipping) earlier this year, after watching several copies sell for what I considered astronomical prices.  The book is a remarkable piece of work and is the definitive history of the Custom-Bilt pipe.  The research that Dr. Unger put into getting the story correct is amazing.  Fortunately there were several past employees, friends and relatives associated with Tracy Miller and the company that were able to give interviews and explanations to the inner workings of the company.

    In regards to the stamps on the pipe in hand, I will speak to what I have found in Unger’s book, without quoting any of it.  The first thing that needs clarification is the Custom-Bilt vs. Custombilt name.  I’ll paraphrase William Unger here, the first stamps used by Tracy Mincer were “Custom-Bilt”.  These were used from 1938-1946 definitively and less definitively prior to 1938.  You could, perhaps, find reference to this in the book on page 91.  There, I think that should give me legitimacy and keep any lawyers at bay.  Next we examine the IMPORTED BRIAR stamp on the bottom of the pipe.  Unger states that he has inspected a large number of Custom-bilt pipes and that about ½ of them do not have this stamp.  He declares that he is at a loss to explain either their absence or presence  This lack of explanation might be seen towards the bottom of page 114.  The final stamp on this Custom-Bilt is the geometric circle stamped on the shank.  Certainly these stamps have some utilitarian meaning.  Nope.  Unger declares that he is not able to explain any system where shapes such as circles, triangles, stars, rectangles, half moons or even trapezoids have any systematic meaning.  This may or may not be seen on the top of page 114. 

    Pipephil.eu does allow quotations with proper referencing and shows nice examples of the above-mentioned geometric stamps.

    (Cos-Cz — Pipes : Logos & Markings)”  (Young, John M. A Custom-Bilt Circle Stamped Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek)

    Regarding this pipe, I looked at the stamp diagrams from Unger’s book and matched this pipe with stamps from the Wally Frank years.  This would date this pipe to 1974-1987 and most likely put production at the Weber factory in New Jersey.

    The Restoration

    The pipe made the 20 foot trip from the photos table to the bench and received a cleaned piece of denim.

    I reexamined the cellophane tape spacer in the mortise.

    I had no plans of attempting to salvage that mouthpiece and that tape had to go.  I removed it with gentle pressure and forceps.

    The old adhesive gave way and the tape was removed in a single piece.

    The reaming tools were gathered.  I planned on using the PipNet blades in sequential order from smallest to largest with each one removing a layer of the overabundant cake.

    The first blades did a fine job. It was here that I decided that I wanted to know how much cake was actually present.

    I started pouring the removed cake into an empty snus container for weighing at the end of the reaming.

    The 2nd blade also did a fine job.

    With the results deposited into the plastic cup.

    Of course the 3rd blade came next and performed valiantly.

    I was accumulating quite the pile of cake.

    Finally the fourth blade, the poor fourth and often unused blade that infrequently is not needed, got his chance to shine.

    There it was the collection of all four PipNet blade’s work.

    I took it up to the electronic balance and was surprised to see 0.22 ounces or 6.24 grams of cake.  Dang near a quarter ounce.  I wondered, “how much tobacco did that take?”

    Back to work.  The tobacco chamber was sanded with 32 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel.  The chamber looked good but…

    On both the left and right sides of the interior front of the chamber there were signs of “spider web” cracks from excessive heat. 

    The spider webbing was light and superficial.  That thick layer of cake had protected the briar quite well.  I did think that a good bowl coating would be in order at the end of this restoration.

    Next came the scraping of the rim.  The lava was moistened with saliva and allowed to sit for a few moments while I put away all the reaming tools.  I then used a sharp pocket knife to carefully scrape the lava from the rim.  There was one large char area at the 8:00 position on the outside edge of the rim.  This was likely due to a lighter. 

    The shank cleaning was next and after the condition of the tobacco chamber, I had visions of using boxes of cotton swabs and liters of alcohol.  I used a couple of alcohol dipped cotton swabs to moisten the residues in the airway and ran the Kleen-Reem shank drill through the airway.  It brought out a good deal of crusty yuck.  Additional scraping was done with a dental scraper.

    I then used a nylon shank brush dipped in alcohol.  You can see from the photo below that this started out very dirty.  Folded bristle pipe cleaners along with more cotton swabs and a good dose of ethyl alcohol helped clear the filth  Within a few scrubbings the airway was cleaned.

    The stummel was then taken to the sink for a scrub with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and dried with a cotton hand towel.

    Back at the workbench the stummel was wiped with a cotton ball wetted with 95% ethyl alcohol.

    The rim looked much better than it did but would require a light topping with 320 then 400 grits sandpaper.

    The charred spot on the outer rim was scraped with a sharp pocket knife then sanded with a 400 grit sanding sponge.

    The rim was topped with 320 and 400 grit sandpaper laid flat on a countertop.

    It was time to find a donor.  Fortunately this CustomBilt arrived with another.  This other had a saddle stem and a crack through the bowl on both the front and back.  I have tried to reduce and compress these cracks to no avail.  I have pretty much set the cracked CustomBilt aside and think about potential fixes now and again.  The stem from the cracked pipe seemed like a near perfect fit to the Custom Bilt at hand.

    I realized that the original stem was a taper and this replacement was a saddle stem but they were both CustomBilts of the same era.

    The fit of the donor stem was slightly larger than the shank of the original pipe.

    Since I know of no way to increase the diameter of a shank, I do know how to reduce the diameter of a vulcanite stem.

    First things first.  I had to snug up the tenon so that it was a nice solid fit to the mortise.  I decided to do this by thickening the tenon with black cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue).  A thin bead of black CA was added to the tenon

    I used a curved dental scraper to evenly spread the CA over the tenon.

    The wet CA was spritzed with a CA drying accelerator then sanded with a 400 grit sanding sponge.  The new fit was very good.

    With the stem securely attached to the stummel I could start the shaping of the stem.  I wrapped the shank in masking tape to protect it from the activities with the file.  The tape had to be replaced several times to keep the shank covered.

    Eventually I stopped filing and started smoothing the stem with emery boards for finger nail filing.  

    To make the seam even better fit, I use Scotch tape as it is even thinner than the masking tape.

    Eventually I removed the tape altogether and sanded the shank and the stem in unison.  This worked because there was no rustications or stampings on the end of the shank.  I had little fear of blending the briar from the old finish to the new.  The stummel and stem were worked with a series of sanding sponges from 320-3500 grits.  Between each sponge the stummel was wiped with a cotton ball moistened with alcohol.  The stem was rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a paper towel between sponges.

    The stummel was given a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm applied with a soft bristle toothbrush and allowed to sit for 20 minutes

    The excess balm was wiped from the stummel using an inside out athletic sock.

    The shank and stem were buffed using white buffing compound on the buffer.  Next, several coats of carnauba wax were applied to the pipe.  The final step was another hand buff with the microfiber polishing cloth then a return to the photography table for the finished pipe photo shoot.

    I realize that I changed the appearance of this pipe quite a bit by replacing a taper stem with a saddle stem but I feel that since they were both original CustomBilt stems it was more acceptable.The notch on the rim doesn’t detract from the appearance and almost looks like it is supposed to be there.  The rustications cleaned up very nicely and look great with the freshly sanded smooth portions.  The replacement stem also polished up very well and it looks good with the stummel.  I think this restoration was a great success and will allow some new owner to make and have many memories of their own with this wonderful old pipe.  The dimensions of the now saddle stem CustonBilt are:

    Length:  5.65 in./ 143.51 mm.

    Weight:  1.79 oz./ 50.75 g.

    Bowl Height: 2.09 in./  53.09 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.71 in./ 39.88 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.88 in./ 22.35 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.56 in./ 39.62 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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  • A Woodsman Restoration

    July 15th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    This pipe screamed at me when I first saw it on eBay.  I have no idea why.  I am not a huge fan of billiards but there was just something about the extended shank that said, “Hey you, check this out.”  Everything about the pipe said that it was a WWII era pipe.  The rustication, the non-briar look about the shank grain and the use of so much aluminum.  I had neer heard of “Woodsman” as a maker or line of pipes.  More on that in the “Background” section.  This pipe demanded that I work on it.  I’d have to ship it in from Canada and I doubted that I’d ever even break even if it sold.  Still, it beckoned.  Well, long story short, I bought it and waited for the arrival of another pipe to entertain me.  Upon arrival the pipe looked as described; dirty, used  and with faint stamps.  The stamps read, Woodsman, in script on the left and GENUINE over BRIAR in a circle on the right shank.  The below photos show the Woodsman before any work was done.

    The pipe would need a reaming and an assessment of the condition of the tobacco chamber.  There appeared to be a crack in the bow; on the right side of the bowl but it did not appear that the crack went all the way to the rim.  The stamps were faint but still legible so extra care would have to be taken to preserve these.  The stem had some light tooth chatter and minimal oxidation.  The aluminum would need some buffing for scratch removal and polishing.  A thorough cleaning and general refinishing were also on the menu.  Overall it looked like a general restoration of a 75 year old used pipe.

    Background

    The research of the name, “Woodsman” produced nothing on either pipedia.org or pipephil.eu.  A Google search did produce a result on Worthpoint.com and is shown below:

    “

    WOODSMAN D&P GENUINE BRIAR SMOKING PIPE From the research I gathered this pipe (D&P “Woodsman”) was probably made just after WW2. It has a genuine briar bowl and a Mt. Laurel shank. D&P made pipes mostly from Mt. Laurel from about 1942 until just after WW2. NEEDLESS TO SAY THIS IS AN EXTREMELY HARD TO FIND UNSMOKED PIPETOTAL LENGTH APPROXIMATELY 6″ LENGTH OF MOUTH PIECE IS ABOUT 1-1/2″ HAS A 7/8″ INSIDE ALUMINUM INSERT BETWEEN THE MOUTH PIECE AND THE PIPE STEM SPORTS A NICE SILVER BAND WEIGHS 1 OUNCE EXCELLANT CONDITION LIKE NEW NEVER SMOKED – VERY, VERY NICE” (Vintage smoking Pipe WOODSMAN D & P GENUINE BRIAR NEVER SMOKED | #1903579341)

    I was not sure where the author of the above got the D&P but it does seem likely.  The “D&P” comes from David and Paul Lavietes originators of Sparta Pipeworks, predecessor of Sparta Industries.  I’ll let the pipedia.org site explain that history, below:

    “Sparta Industries is based in Sparta, NC. It was created in the 1940s by David and Paul Lavietes, and originally called D&P Pipeworks. It began production in 1943 and at the end of the 1950s. From 1943-1946 D&P made the Spartan Pipe from locally sourced rhododendron a.k.a. “mountain laurel”. These pipes were very utilitarian and blocky, the bits were made of maple and featured a military mount. Pipes made from rhododendron had to be boiled in a boric acid solution to keep them burning when smoked. Both Rhododendron wood and Boric acid are known to be toxic to humans, though there is no evidence that there were any issues with the Spartan pipes. While some Spartan pipes were sold on the domestic market they were mainly produced to be sent to the war effort in Europe and were often included in C-Rations. Once the European briar shortage ended and shipments to the US began again D&P shifted production to traditional pipes made from real briar. Dr. Grabow took it over, at the end of the 1970s Sparta became one of the biggest pipe makers in the USA, and the Dr. Grabow brand was the number one in sales in the country. Today it makes various brands, producing over a million pipes a year, perhaps the largest amount from just one factory.

    The company was bought in the 1990s by Lane, Ltd., a giant in the North American distribution sector. It produces and represents various brands, such as Aldo Velani, Alpha, Cesare Barontini, and Mastercraft.” (Sparta Industries – Pipedia)

    The Woodsman pipe in hand, has what appears to be an extended shank of non-briar wood.  I say this because the grain of the shank looks unlike briar.  I’ve restored several pipes made from both Mission Briar and Mountain Laurel.  Both of these woods have grains without the birdseye grain.  I will link a post by Dave Tabler writing for Appalacianhistory.net for a fascinating read about the use of Mountain laurel and the pipes made from it in North Carolina – This is not a pipe… – Appalachian History –.

    As a bonus feature I’ll link to an article on the curing of wood used for pipe making – Curing – Pipedia.  Yeah, you can continue down that rabbit hope if you like.  And if that were not enough I’ll throw in another restoration I did of a Trapwell pipe made of the “World’s Best Briar” that ain’t briar at all:  A Trapwell Large Apple Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek.

    The Restoration

    Things started well with the typical denim piece.

    The ream-team was assembled.

    This pipe needed the #2 and #3 PipNet blades.  The Smokingpipes Low Country reamer and the General triangular scraper also got to see some action due to the concave nature of wear and charring.  

    The below photo is very misleading.  The reamed tobacco chamber was not a cylindrical drilling any longer.

    The below photo shows the tobacco chamber sanded.  The charred areas were sanded to remove as much of the charred briar as I was able.  I was not sure how to proceed with repairing the chamber and needed some pondering time.

    Shank cleaning usually is a good activity for me to do pondering.  This one started out by running the Kleen-Reem tool’s shank drill through the airway.

    Below you can see the tip of the drill in the button of the chamber.

    Next came the cotton swab dipped in alcohol to soften the remaining smoking residue.  Then the scraping with a dental scraper.  This produced a great deal of yuck.  I tried scrubbing with folded bristle pipe cleaner dipped in alcohol and a shank brush.  More yuck.  Then moved to a .25 caliber brass bore brush mounted to a wood dowel.  The Airway was filled with alcohol during the brushing and drained on the paper towel.  Did I mention the amount of yuck removed?

    At this point I thought maybe some hot water would help.  So I took the stummel to the sink for the undiluted Murphy Oil Soap scrub with a nylon brush.

    The stummel remained full of grime so the scrub was repeated with Murphy’s and a brass brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    Dang!  Look at that crack.  Well, does it go all the way through the chamber?

    Oh man.  The water really made the spider webbing show up too.  What have I got myself into?

    I then wiped the stummel with a cotton ball dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.  This colored the cotton some but not terribly.

    I poured some alcohol into the tobacco chamber to see if the crack was all the way through the bowl.  Alcohol leaked right through the side.  

    I was not leaking through just one point but the length of the crack.

    What about the other side?, I asked.  Yep, that one too was leaking alcohol through the bowl.  Not as bad but still not a positive development.

    Hmm, more to ponder.  Needing additional pondering time, I turned to cleaning up the stem.  I soaked the aluminum tube extension in alcohol to soften the residue. 

    The shank was very dirty so I thought packing the tobacco chamber and airway with cotton then saturating the cotton with 95% ethyl alcohol might help dissolve some of that.

    The above 10 ml of alcohol were added to the cotton stuffed chamber and shank.

    Some of the alcohol was seeping through the crack on the right side of the bowl.  This leaking alcohol was undoubtedly carrying tars and other smoking residues to the outside of the bowl.  That would require more cleaning.

    A lesser amount of alcohol was seeping through the left side.  This just added to the pondering.

    Maybe stem cleaning would help the pondering process.  The stem was also pretty filthy.  Numerous bristle pipe cleaners all dipped in alcohol were used before the stem was cleaned.

    I was still pondering tobacco chamber fixes.  Hmm, maybe ridding the stem of the tooth chatter would help the pondering.  The bite zone was filed with a small flat file.

    On one side there remained three dents which would require filling with black cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue).

    I applied a layer of black CA to the dents.  This was allowed to cure or dry.

    The cured black CA was then filed with a small flat file and sanded with a 600 grit  sanding sponge.

    Maybe the pondering organ would come up with a great solution in the morning.  I let the alcohol do what it does in the tobacco chamber and shank overnight.  The next morning I removed the now dry cotton.  The cotton in the bowl was daily clean but the shank cotton was full of yuck.

    I started the shank airway cleaning process again.  Many cotton swabs dipped in alcohol and a good deal of scraping later the airway was more clean.

    Still, the shank was dirty.  I thought, “maybe another cotton alcohol soak would work.”  I repacked the shank and chamber with clean cotton then added another 10 ml of 95% ethyl alcohol and let it sit overnight.

    Another day later, I returned to the pipe and removed the cotton.  I considered this a great success.  The cotton was stained but it had removed nearly all of the smoking tars.  Subsequent cotton swabs came back much cleaner.  Victory!

    All my pondering came up with the following plan for the cracked and leaking tobacco chamber:  Water Glass, also known as sodium silicate (Na2SiO3).  The idea would be to

    1. Coat the interior of the tobacco chamber with a layer of Na2SiO3 allow it to dry or harden 
    2. Sand the chamber smooth.  
    3. Repeat until the tobacco chamber is smooth and a uniform cylinder. 

    This sounded very reasonable and like a good solution.

    Below is a photo of the warnings from the bottle label.

    I applied the Na2SiO3 using a folded pipe cleaner.  I vigorously rub the pipe cleaner to remove any loose fibers.  The Na2SiO3 is thicker than water, more like a syrup, in consistency.  

    The Na2SiO3 dried quite quickly and was hard within 30 minutes.

    I then used brown CA applied with a fly tying bodkin to carefully fill the crack along the outside of the bowl on the right side.

    I used a brass brush to add texture to the CA after it had dried.  I had to apply a second coat to fill the void at the outer rim.

    I sanded the interior of the tobacco chamber using a ¾ inch wood dowel wrapped in 220 sandpaper.  Below is a photo of the first sanding of the first application.

     A second application of Na2SiO3 was done, followed by a second sanding.  This was followed by a third application and sanding.  The ¾ inch dowel wrapped with sandpaper allowed me to re-establish an even cylindrical shape to the tobacco chamber.

    With the tobacco chamber situation resolved I wondered if oxalic acid would lighten the color of the wood.  I didn’t call the wood briar because I do not think it is briar.

    The oxalic acid was worked into the stummel with a cotton swab.  Below you can see the discoloration on the cotton.

    When working the oxalic acid into the bowl the wood lightened almost immediately on the front and the back of the bowl.

    The sides remained darker.  I was not sure if this was due to smoking residues seeping through the cracks from previous use, the cotton-alcohol treatments or a combination of the two.

    Below is the oxalic acid treated front of the bowl.

    Below is the oxalic acid treated rim.

    I let the oxalic acid sit for 30 minutes then scrubbed the stummel with copious water and a nylon scrub brush.

    Once dry the stummel did indeed appear lighter in color.  I call this a success.

    The brown CA filled crack appeared worse for wear after the oxalic acid.  I touched up the light area of the crack with a Furniture touch-up marker.

    The stampings were covered with masking tape for their protection.

    I then reattached the stem and took the pipe to the buffer for a buffing with rouge compound.  Once buffed the tape was removed and the wood wiped with an alcohol dipped make-up pad to remove and rouge residuals.  The wood was coated with Before and After Restoration Balm and set aside for 20 minutes.

    An inside out athletic sock was used to remove any remaining Restoration Balm.

    To finish the restoration of the tobacco chamber I decided to use a bowl coating.  100% maple syrup and charcoal powder were chosen as the bowl coating.  The chamber was coated with a light layer of syrup using a cotton swab.

    To keep the charcoal powder out of the airway a pipe cleaner was inserted into the airway.  A capsule of charcoal powder was poured into the chamber.  The rim was covered with a piece of painters tape.  The stummel was then shaken for a couple of minutes.  I also tilted and tapped the bowl with the rubber coated handle of a file to make sure the powder was evenly distributed on the entire bowl surface.

    The tape was removed and the excess powder was dumped.  I reinserted the stem and gave a couple of hard puffs of air through the stem to clear remaining carbon powder.  The finished bowl coating is shown in the photo below.

    The pipe was taken to the buffer where several coats of carnauba wax were applied to the pipe.  The final step was another hand buff with the microfiber polishing cloth then a return to the photography table for the finished pipe photo shoot.

    This restoration ended up being much more extensive than I originally thought.  The tobacco chamber was in far worse shape and the cracks in the bowl were more severe than I expected.  This is probably not a pipe that I would sell to anyone who has not read and understands all of the procedures done to it.  I do think that steps taken to restore this pipe will provide many years of use to an otherwise worn-out old pipe.  I have not taken it out for a test-smoke yet but I do plan to soon.  The pipe remains a very unique historical example of the ingenuity of pipe makers during the drought of briar caused by World War 2.  It really is a lovely pipe with great billiard lines.  The stem polished very nicely and is a pretty contrast to the aluminum bands.  The extended shank is, I believe and attempt to use non-briar in the manufacture of the pipe.  I cannot determine if the bowl is actually briar or not and the rustication doesn’t allow a solid identification by the wood’s grain.  The dimensions of the are:

    Length:  6.02 in./ 141.22 mm.

    Weight:  1.02 oz./ 49.33 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.69 in./  45.47 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.60 in./ 39.88 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.80 in./ 21.34 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.28 in./ 36.57 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the  finished Woodsman Billiard.

  • A London Briar Apple Restoration

    July 3rd, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    I cannot say how many times I had picked up this London Briar apple and appreciated its dimensions and contours.  Yet, time and again I set it aside to work on another pipe.  The apple shape is a favorite of mine and this pipe has nearly perfect “apple” archetypal lines.  Perhaps it fell to the wayside because of its more generic heritage and my snobbish attitude.  Then I think back to my list of favorite brands and lines:  Peterson, Marxman, Dr Grabow, Yello-Bole.  Hmm, that pretty much rules out the snobbery, eh?  

    This pipe came as part of an estate lot.  One of those purchases where it was along for the ride and not the object of my desire of the lot.  Below are some photographs I took of the pipe before work was started.

    Overall, the pipe was in very good condition.  The acrylic stem was pretty much impervious to oxidation, saving me a good deal of work.  Another positive was that the stem had not been the victim of chewing.  It did have a dark streak from smoking residue though.  The stummel had been given a clear coat finish which I do not like and will typically remove.  There did not appear to be any significant fill which would require attention.  The tobacco chamber was also quite clean and the rim looked nearly pristine.  This had all the earmarks of a nice relaxing restoration.

    Background

    I cannot say that there is a lot of information out there on this pipe.  Searches on both pipephil.eu and pipedia.org came up with nothing.  Fortunately there is the great Steve Laug who has restored a very similar pipe and chronicled it very well.  Here is the link to Steve’s restoration blog:

    Didn’t Break a Sweat Cleaning this London Briar Brandy | rebornpipes

    Unfortunately the link from Steve’s blog to the shop where these pipes were sold lists the link as: 

    (Page not found | Gauntleys Cigars)

    I will quote from Steve Laug’s post,

    “I had not seen the stamping London Briars before so I did some hunting on the web for the brand and found that the brand was made by/for Gauntleys of Nottingham. They sold new for £31.95 Here is the link to their site: https://cigars.gauntleys.com/uk/offer/gauntleys-london-briar-pipes

    I quote directly from the site:
    Gauntleys London Briar Pipes – Our London Briar pipes have become very popular since we introduced them just a few months ago. Each is made from selected second briar blocks from one of the country’s largest and most respected pipe makers.

    If the briar was flawless these pipes would sell for over £250. These are from briar with small flaws in the grain or needing small amounts of filler so are great value. The briar is some of the finest in the world and can be up to 80 years old.

    Each pipe is hand made in a range of classic English shapes and comes in a number of finishes from Smooth Brown to Black (Shell Briar) Sandblasted.

    If you are looking for a first pipe or something to use around the house or garden the Gauntleys London Briars are very affordable and smoke like an entry level premium briar. Each pipe comes boxed with a silk bag.” (Didn’t Break a Sweat Cleaning this London Briar Brandy | rebornpipes).

    The Restoration

    The restoration of this great apple shaped piece began with a cleanish denim piece on the workbench.

    The pipe’s tobacco chamber looked pretty clean but I kept getting whiffs that it may have been used for the smoking of non-tobacco.  I have had experiences with marijauna smoking residue and it is never easy nor pleasant to deal with.  This pipe had a slight aroma of the wacky weed yet there were tobacco fragments in the chamber.  If it had been used for non-tobacco it was infrequent.  I gathered the “ream team”, which included the PipNet, Smokingpipes Low Country reamer and General triangular scraper.

    The number 2 blades of the PipNet made short work of the tobacco chamber with the Low Country reamer used for the bottom part of the chamber.

    Below is a photo of the reamed chamber.

    The draft hole was constricted so I used the Kleen-Reem draft hole drill to clear it.

    Below is a photo of the drill in the airway.

    The airway was cleaned with several bristle pipe cleaners, cotton swabs, both dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol, and some scraping with a dental scraper.

    This stummel had a clear coat finish that I wanted to remove.  I tried ethyl alcohol on a make-up pad and that didn’t touch the finish.  I then tried acetone on a make-up pad.  This too had little effect.  I decided that a bath in acetone for 30 minutes would loosen or dissolve the finish.

    While waiting for the acetone to do what it does, I started cleaning the stem.  This was done with bristle pipe cleaners and 95% ethyl alcohol.  The before photos show a distinctive dark stained airway.  Once cleaned out the stem showed no signs of the dark streak.

    After 30 minutes in the acetone I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad and some color and finish did come off but not enough for my liking, so I went back into the acetone for another 30 minutes.

    After another 30 minutes the clear coat was relinquishing its hold on the briar.  A light sanding while the finish was still soft  removed it from the bowl.  The finish remained on the shank.

    The below photos indicate that further sanding and acetone wipes were needed.

    Eventually the clear coat was removed.  Below, you can see that the stem was reattached to preserve the joint where the stem meets the shank as well as the painters tape protecting the stamps.

    WIth the finish removed I sanded the stem and stummel with a series of sanding sponges in grits from 320-3500.  Between each sponge I wiped the pipe with a make-up pad wetted with ethyl alcohol. 

    After the sanding sponges I worked the pipe with micro-mesh pads 4000-12000, again wiping the pipe as above.  

    I gave the stummel a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm and allowed it to sit for 20 minutes.

    The Restoration Balm was wiped from the stummel using an inside out athletic sock.   

    The pipe was then taken to the buffer where the stem was buffed with white buffing compound before the entire pipe was given several coats of carnauba wax.  The final step was a hand buffing of the pipe with a microfiber polishing cloth raising the shine to the levels which can be seen below in the “finished” pipe photos.

    There is something about the apple shape that just fits for me.  Perhaps it is because I share a well rounded shape.  This apple caught my eye as a wonderful example of the shape and turned out beautifully.  The acrylic stem cleaned up nicely and demanded attention with its bright pearlescent yellow.  The briar grain, though not unattractive, is rather muted.  I wonder if I should have tried to accent the grain more with a contrast dye.  Still the cross grains at the front and rear of the bowl are pretty.  The best part of the pipe is the hand feel, this apple just fits in the hand with the perfect plumpness. The dimensions of the London Briar Apple are:

    Length:  5.74 in./ 145.80 mm.

    Weight:  1.52 oz./ 43.09 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.66 in./  42.16 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.49 in./ 37.85 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.74 in./ 18.80 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.55 in./ 39.37 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the finished London Briar Apple.

  • A Peterson Kapp-Royal 01 Bent Pot Restoration

    July 1st, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    It seems like I haven’t worked on a Peterson pipe for a while but, that’s not true.  I did that Captain Pete commission just a couple of weeks ago.  Oh well, I’ll use my newly created meme anyway:

    This restoration is on a Peterson I have never worked with a Kapp-Royal bent pot 01.  This beauty was spotted on eBay back in April of 2025.  I remember when I wouldn’t pay more than $45 dollars for a Peterson pipe.  Then Inflatron (the inflation monster) attacked like Godzilla. Sadly this Irish lass was a bit more than the $45 but all things considered it was still reasonable.  The stampings are all clear and read as follows:  Peterson’s over “KAPP-ROYAL” on the left shank, with MADE IN THE over REPUBLIC over IRELAND, offset 01, on the right shank.  Below are some photograph taken prior to work on the pipe.

    The Kapp-Royal was in very good condition.  The stem had light oxidation and no tooth chater, to speak of.  The briar looked very nice with fine birdseye’s on both flanks.  The gap where the stem met the stummel was an annoyance which would have to be addressed.  Other than a few minor fills and some sanding/polish this beauty would be ready for a new owner in no time.

    Background

    For the first three pieces of Peterson history I turned to the official Peterson website.  Here, I chose quotes from the general history of Peterson, the “Classic” shape range, and the 01 shape in particular:

    As the oldest continuously operating briar pipe factory in the world, we at Peterson have a certain tradition to uphold, a legacy of craftsmanship dating back over 150 years. Whether you’re browsing for your very first pipe or are a seasoned collector in search of a rare gem, know that every pipe in our catalogue carries with it that same preservation of tradition. A Peterson pipe isn’t just a utilitarian tool; it’s a piece of history you can carry with you in your travels, a faithful companion to accompany you through all that life offers. (Peterson.ie: Pipes)

    One of our most popular shapes, our signature take on the bent Pot enhances the inherently muscular design with a broad, squat bowl and extra-sturdy proportions through the shank and transition, as well as an elegant quarter bend. (Peterson Pipes: Army Filter Heritage (01) Fishtail (9mm))

    Since our inception, we’ve offered a range of specific tiers suited to our customers’ tastes and price requirements. Our Classic range represents non-System pipes crafted for the Everyman, unique and timeless designs that capture our House Style and quality craftsmanship at a price any smoker can enjoy. Rather than relegating production to one or two lines, we offer a variety of styles, shapes, and finishes among these entry-level series, including traditional navy mounts (flush-fitting stems), P-Lip mouthpieces, and army mounts. (Peterson.ie: Classic Pipes)

    Next I looked into the big The Peterson Pipe book (Irwin, Mark and Malmberg, Gary (2018). The Peterson Pipe The Story of Kapp & Peterson, First edition, second printing 2021. Briar Books Press, Canada.) for a more specific account of the Kapp-Royal line.

    “Kapp-Royal (1969. 1976-79, c. 1988, 2004-)  First appearance as a line introduced 1969.  In 1976-79 Iwan Ries catalog offering identical with non-System Dunmore line.  Second appearance the late eighties as a high-grade Italian-market line with briar band inset into mouthpiece.  From c. 2004, Italian line available in the US as high grade, orange finish, sterling band, amber-colored acrylic fish-tail stem or sometimes vulcanite, embedded aluminum P.” (Irwin and Malmberg p. 306)

    According to the above description by Irwin and Malmberg, this pipe is likely a Kapp-Royal from the “c. 1988” period and made in the Dublin factory.

    The Restoration

    The Kapp-Royal made its way to the workbench after the “Before” photo shoot.  Here it received a cleaned denim piece and a more thorough examination. 

    Below you can see that gap I was referring to earlier.  I couldn’t see an obstruction to a tight fit but there certainly was one.

    The original fills had failed and would need fixing.  Fortunately they were a distance away from the stamps.

    Another old fill was located on the heel.

    The reservoir, well not really a reservoir since this is a Classic 01 and not a System pipe, was surprisingly dirty.  That could definitely be the culprit for the ill fitting stem.

    The tobacco chamber looked very clean.  I could even make out the chuck marks from the Peterson factory.  How could a chamber this clean have a shank that is fouled so badly?

    Below is another shot of the chamber prior to work done.  It had obviously received some scraping by the marks at the bottom of the chamber yet the rim looked pristine. 

    I figured there was no reason to ream this tobacco chamber so proceeded directly to sanding it.  I could see no damage to the chamber other than the scraping marks at the bottom of the chember.

    The shank cleaning was far more difficult.  Here I used the following techniques:  Nylon shank brush scrubbing with alcohol present, Folded bristle pipe cleaners dipped in alcohol, cotton swabs dipped in alcohol and dental scraper scraping.

    The stem was, like the tobacco chamber, surprisingly clean requiring only a couple bristle pipe cleaners wetted with alcohol.  The stem did not need to be treated with either Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer or Briarville Pipe Stem Oxidation Remover.  I thought sanding/polishing would suffice.  I did apply a coating of mineral oil to the stem though.

    The stummel made its way to the sink for a scrub with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and dried with a cotton hand towel.

    Back at the workbench the stummel was wiped with a make-up pad wetted with 95% ethyl alcohol.  Very little color came off indicating that the stummel was clean.

    The disturbingly dirty shank bothered me so, I decided to give it an overnight cotton-alcohol treatment.  The bowl was stuffed with cotton balls while the airway was stuffed with more cotton.

    The cotton was saturated with 95% ethyl alcohol until no additional alcohol could be absorbed with a disposable pipette. 

    The next day the cotton was removed.

    The logo area was de-oiled with alcohol on a cotton swab.  Yeah, I tried to mask it without de-oiling at first – unsuccess!

    The stamps and logo were masked with painters tape to protect them from the upcoming sanding.

    The fills were redone using a dab of brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) applied with a fly tying bodkin.  Briar dust was then pressed onto and into the wet CA.  A quick dab of additional CA was applied to the top of the new fill.

    The new fills were filed with a small flat file and smoothed with a 400 grit sanding sponge.

    The pipe was then worked with a series of sanding sponges from 400-3500 grits.  The stummel was wiped with a make-up pad wetted with alcohol between each sponge.  The stem was rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a paper towel between each sponge.

    I then worked the pipe with 4000-12000 grit micro-mesh pads.  Between each pad I repeated the above wiping except Obsidian Oil was used in place of mineral oil.

    The pipe was then buffed with white buffing compound at the buffer.

    The remaining buffing compound was removed with hand buffing and a rag then wiped with a make-up pad wetted with alcohol.  The stummel then received a coat of Before and After Restoration Balm and was allowed to sit for 15 minutes.

    The excess Restoration Balm was wiped from the stummel with an inside out athletic sock.

    The stem logo was again cleaned with alcohol and a cotton swab.  

    To re-do the gold logo, I used Gold Leaf Rub’nBuff applied with a fly tying bodkin.

    The excess gold leaf was wiped away with a paper towel.

    The stem was then polished with Before and After Fine Polish followed by their Extra Fine Polish.  Both were applied and hand buffed using a soft cotton cloth.

    The pipe then received several coats of carnauba wax at the buffer.

    The final step was another hand buff with the microfiber polishing cloth then off to the final photo shoot.

    I don’t think I’ll ever tire of working on Peterson pipes.  This pipe started out not needing much but in the end it is absolutely beautiful.  The bird’s eyes on both sides are gorgeous.  The vulcanite stem polished very nicely and with that briar band looks amazing.  I have nothing against the 01 shape, it is just not my favorite but this pipe could change my mind on that.  The hand feel and balance while clenching is very comfortable.  The dimensions of the Peterson Kapp-Royal 01 Bent Pot are:

    Length:  5.56 in./ 141.22 mm.

    Weight:  1.74 oz./ 49.33 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.79 in./  45.47 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.57 in./ 39.88 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.84 in./ 21.34 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.44 in./ 36.57 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the  finished Peterson Kapp-Royal 01 Bent Pot.

  • A Prestoration of a Viking Thor 520

    June 26th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    OK, I made up a new word.  “Prestoration”, meaning to make a brand new pipe more usable.  I hear folks saying. “Can’t you just leave well enough alone?”  Hmm, probably not.  I mean I tried.  When I got this pipe, I thought, “Oh cool, it’s a reverse calabash.  I like the ugly little bugger.”  I then loaded it up with Uhle’s Perfection Plug Burley, which is a cube cut burley.  The pipe smoked very nicely.  About ¾ of the way through the bowl, I noticed a reddish stain on my left hand.  That’s the pipe holding hand, if you are wondering.  I thought, “Was that there before?”  My hands are typically only clean before a meal, after a shower or after scrubbing a stummel.  It had been several hours since any of those. 

    I took the pipe downstairs to the workbench and started to wipe the stummel with a make-up pad dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol and yikes!  Wow, I am really getting ahead of myself here.  Let’s back up and do this right.

    About a week ago I came across the Pipes and Cigars (PIPES and CIGARS – Shop Tobacco Pipes, Pipe Tobacco & More) Father’s Day sale special.  This offer allowed you to choose a pipe, a lighter, a tin of tobacco, a pouch of tobacco and a travel pouch all from various selections, oh yeah, a Rockwell pipe too too.  The total price of your customized assemblage was $99.  I thought, “Hmm, I’ve never had a Viking pipe before and that one has some darn thick walls.  I am out of Peterson De Luxe Navy Rolls, that’s a neat little Lane lighter, I’ve always wondered about C’est LaVie pouches and I can always use another leather tobacco pouch to forget in a pocket.”  So, I ordered that set of stuff and it arrived today.

    Okay, to be honest the above pipe is how it looks now, not like when it arrived.  

    The below photos show how the Viking Thor looked upon arrival.

    The mailman also delivered three blends from Uhle Tobacco Company (Uhle Tobacco Company).  I had never tried any of their blends and was curious.  

    Now we can pick up the story from the previous “yikes!”

    I took the pipe downstairs to the workbench and started to wipe the stummel with a make-up pad dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol and yikes!  As you can see below, there was plenty of red dye on the pipe.  Enough to stain my left hand for years and years.  Excuse the photo-bombing Peterson, Stay tuned that restoration  will be published next week.

    The Viking without all that excess red stain was more of a sickly pink.  Though RF Kennedy would probably concur that living without all that RED DYE #5, or whatever it was, was a good thing.  That was not why I removed it.  I reverted to being a 10 year old, “Thor started it.  He put the dye on my hand first.  I had to do what I did because of him.”

    Leaving well enough alone has never been one of my strengths.  I did need to return this pipe to some semblance of its original condition though.  I guess I am restoring it, eh?  I decided to re-dye the pipe with Fiebing’s Dark Brown Leather Dye.  This would hopefully darken the briar and still keep some of that original reddish tint.

    I assembled the dye kit.

    Using a folded pipe cleaner, I applied two coats of Fiebing’s Dark Brown Leather Dye to the briar.  I tried to flame the dye after the first coat but too much alcohol had evaporated.  The large size of this stummel made it difficult to get the whole thing dyed and flamed.  I tried again after the second coat.  This corked slightly better but only a partial burn was achieved.

    I let the dye dry for a few minutes then wiped the stummel with a paper towel.

    I was quite pleased with the color of the pipe at this time.  I allowed the pipe to dry for another 30 minutes.

    I then buffed the stummel with rouge buffing compound.

    Back at the workbench I wiped the stummel with an alcohol moistened make-up pad to remove any remaining buffing compound.  I got the compound and a bit of dark brown dye.  At least this pipe wouldn’t be staining my hands red.

    I then took the pipe back to the buffer for several coats of carnauba wax. 

    DOH!  I forgot that I wanted to add some pizazz to the logo.  I cleaned the wax from the logo with a cotton swab and 95% ethyl alcohol.

    I chose Silver Leaf Rub’nBuff for coloring the stamped depressions of the logo thinking that it would look like the steel of a viking sword.  The silver leaf was applied with a fly tying bodkin and worked into the stamp.

    The excess silver leaf was buffed from the surrounding area with a cotton swab and then with a paper towel.

    Back to the buffer to redo the carnauba wax over the logo.  The last thing was a hand buffing of the pipe with a microfiber polishing cloth.  Below are some photos of the finished Viking Thor 520.

    If you are interested in Viking pipes here is their website:  Viking Pipes Website – Premium Classic, Smoking Tobacco Pipes.  Be warned though that clicking the provided link to “Check Price” will take you to Amazon and it was not the same pipe nor even a Viking pipe.  Weird but true.

    The only remaining question I had was who was actually making the Viking pipes.  The Viking website had photos of a bearded man with a pipe and talked about, well here is a quote,

    “In the windswept fjords and dense forests of the North, the inspiration for Viking Pipes took root. Drawing from the rich traditions of craftsmanship passed down through generations, the brand was created to honor a time when tools weren’t just objects but an extension of their maker’s hands. The name “Viking” reflects strength, resilience, and a connection to the land and sea—a tribute to those who balanced practicality and artistry in their everyday lives.” (Viking Pipes Website – Premium Classic, Smoking Tobacco Pipes).

    Back at the Pipes and Cigars website I looked at the specifications of the Viking Thor again and found the following:

    (Viking Thor Smooth Pipe – PIPES and CIGARS)

    Apparently I was unaware of the Italian “windswept fjords and dense forests of the North”.  I mean no disrespect to Italian pipes or their makers.  There are great makers and brands throughout Europe, Italy included.  I also appreciate the ability to buy a good quality briar pipe at reduced cost.  This pipe is that.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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  • An EA Carey Billiard Restoration

    June 24th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    I am not sure why but it happens with some frequency,  I’ll look at an estate lot and one pipe just jumps out at me as being more attractive than the rest.  This singularly attractive pipe turns out to be an EA Carey Magic Inch.  Now, I am far from an expert on design or aesthetics but I do know what I like.  The strangest part is that I have only ever kept one EA Carey pipe as a companion and that one was “restored” many years ago.  I say “restored” because I don’t really remember anything of the restoration other than recognizing the repaired fills.  I got the pipe out and smoked it as research for the writing

    (above image is the only EA Carey pipe that I’ve kept for use)

    of this blog.  It performed well though I am still not sure what to think of the Magic Inch system.  The pipe had a new papyrus filter and after the smoke the filter appeared nearly as it did before the smoke.  The pipe had a very nice draw and the vent along the stem did cool the smoke.  I tried covering the vents with my finger and thumb, rather than covering the rim to increase the ember, this worked well.  I was just using the vents as more of a carburetor.

    Over the years I have accumulated a few EA Carey pipes and they sat in a cardboard box.  I guess it was time for one to hit the workbench.  The EA Carey that I selected can be seen in the photos below prior to any work done.  This pipe is an Italian product as indicated by the stamp of the bottom of the pipe.  The stampings read, EA CAREY over MAGIC INCH over PAT. No 3267941 with an ITALY offset to the right.

    This pipe appeared to have been smoke but not heavily.  There was a light cake built up in the tobacco chamber and a light lava deposit on the rim.  The mouthpiece had some teeth chatter indicating that it had been clenched but not mauled.  The finish was worn either from handling or from being pushed around in a drawer.  The plastic stem was not subject to oxidation.  This looked to be a relatively easy restore.

    Background

    The history search began with pipephil.eu.  Here I found a matching set of stamps but a different country of manufacture (COM).  This indicated to me that EA Carey was importing pipes to their specifications.

    (Can-Car — Pipes : Logos & Markings)

    Next I went to pipedia.org for their general history.  The entry here suggested it was written by EA Carey advertising folks though no source was mentioned.

    “Magic Inch” System has been a Carey’s tradition for over 50 years, with over 1,000,000 sold. The “Magic Inch” is an air chamber inserted between the imported briar bowl and the vented mouthpiece which allows cool outside air to enter and mix with the warm tobacco smoke inside the “Magic Inch” chamber. Tobacco tars, oils and moisture, are squeezed out of the smoke. The residue drops to the bottom of the chamber and is absorbed by the Papyrate sleeve. From its rich tradition and thousands of satisfied customers, this pipe is sure to be your smoking favorite for life.

    Carey Magic Inch pipes can be readily identified by a boxed letter C on the stem, along with a distinctive series of three vent slits and the Carey Magic Inch name stamped into the side of the bowl.

    (Carey Magic Inch – Pipedia)

    Finally I turned to the EA Carey official website.  I guess I should have started with looking at the “horse’s mouth” rather than using second party information.  Since Ea Carey is still in business and selling their signature tobacco blends, pipes and various sundries their website, EA Carey’s Online Smoke Shop | Best Pipe Tobacco | Briar Pipes is kept relatively current with weekly specials.  For a great article on the history of EA Carey

    (History of EA Carey 1948-2024)

    On the information page the following was found:

    “The “Magic Inch” System has been a Carey’s tradition for over 50 years. Hundreds of thousands of these smoking pipes have been sold, beginning with the very first billiard shape back in 1948. Based on the original “Magic Inch” System, the improved modern design provides the coolest and driest smoke ever found in a pipe.

    1. Improved Ventilator Action 2. Papyrate

    3. The “Magic Inch” 4. The Carey Mouthpiece

    Improved Ventilator

    Each Carey “Magic Inch” system begins with a scientifically metered amount of air into each puff of smoke. The Carey “Magic Inch” System, with the new Papyrate, controls air better and more accurately…for improved drawing and smokeability!!

    Papyrate

    The all new Papyrate…the heart of the “Magic Inch” System, features new and improved 2-ply construction. You get improved rigidity for ease of fit and removal. You get extra absorbency for dryer smoking and longer lasting quality between Papyrate changes…made especially for your new Carey pipe.

    The “Magic Inch”

    The “Magic Inch”, unmistakably superior for 38 years, now achieves a new and better level of performance. The outer shell of the Papyrate filters and meters air with 50 micron precision. The “Magic Inch” unique “moisture ports” dissipates moisture, tar, and nicotine into the 2-ply Papyrate, protecting the smoker from unwanted materials. And finally, the unique Carey “Magic Inch” evaporation chamber releases moisture through evaporation during resting periods between smokes. Not a filter, not a standard “push bit”…the unique “Magic Inch”…producing an all new level of smoking quality.

    The Carey Mouthpiece

    Now you can enjoy new mouthpiece construction for added comfort and durability. Made of Zytel 101, this new mouthpiece has depth of color, outstanding durability, and a bit thickness of only .380 inches. The result is added comfort, outstanding durability and a color that never tarnishes and never needs to be polished.”

    (Carey’s “Magic Inch” System Defined)

    Okay, I stand corrected.  The papyrate  is not a filter and my expectation of it absorbing moisture or tars from the smoke was explained in the above quote from EA Carey.  A second bowl of EA Carey Gold blend was smoked the next day.  This time I checked the Papyrate more frequently.  It did appear to be absorbing moisture.  As I thought about it, it made sense, the cooler incoming air from the vents would mix with the smoke.  This would cause moisture to condense out of the smoke and form along the nylon Magic inch.  The ports along the Magic Inch would allow the moisture to flow through and be absorbed by the Papyrate.  Definitely not a filter.  In my two smoking sessions, I did not note any real discoloration of the papyrate as would be expected from a filtering of the smoke.

    As for the dates of the pipe in hand, I have little idea.  Other than it being stamped with the patent number.  Assuming that the stamping was a marketing strategy and that patents are valid for 20 years from the filing date, I can assume the pipe dates from 1948-1968.  I would not expect the company to continue stamping the patent number after the expiration of the patent though I could be very wrong about that..

    The Restoration

    The EA Carey billiard made its way to the workbench and a laundered denim piece.

    The ample bowl of the billiard demand the #3 PipNet blades.

    Reaming was completed with the PipNet, Smoking pipes Low Country reamer and General triangular scraper.

    The tobacco chamber was sanded with 320 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel and with 320 sandpaper by hand.  The sanded chamber showed no signs of heat damage or charring. 

    The rim showed only minimal lava in the rustications.

    This was cleaned by moistening the rim with saliva and scrubbing with a brass brush.

    The rim was wiped with a paper towel and looked a little better.

    I took the stummel to the sink for a scrubbing with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and dried with a cotton hand towel.

    The plastic stem was also scrubbed with soap and a shank brush and rinsed with warm water.

    Returning to the workbench I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.  I was surprised to see a dark purple color on the cotton.  The black stain must have actually been a dark purple.  There remained some very shiny spots of finish on the briar.

    Also more observable were old fills of pits in the briar.  Below is one pit on the front of the stummel.

    And a second large pit on the left side.

    Below you can easily see the shine I was referring to above.  There was some kind of clear coat on this pipe.

    Below another look at the remaining shine where the shank meets the bowl.

    I needed to think about shine removal so I started cleaning the shank, figuring that I could think while doing a repetitive task.  The Magic Inch system made shank cleaning more difficult since I could not use any scraper to access the airway.  I placed a few milliliters of alcohol in the tobacco chamber and allowed it to flow into the shank but not through.  Using the alcohol, I scrubbed the airway with a nylon shank brush.  The alcohol was poured into an empty medicine cup.  This was repeated a few times.  I also ran folded bristle pipe cleaners through the airway.  These were also dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.

    With the shank cleaned and the ponder still in process, I decided to try removing the clear coat with acetone.  I tested  the susceptibility to the finish with a cotton swab dipped in acetone.  It did remove some of the finish but that clear coat was tough.  It also looked like the clear coat itself was dyed purple.

    More acetone, this time on a make-up pad did remove more purple but the only way to ensure the total removal was with an acetone bath.  I opted against this in fear of the effects of the acetone on the nylon Magic Inch and the acrylic shank extension.  I also worried about the acetone affecting the glue holding all of those components in place.

    I chose to use a 400 grit sanding sponge to sand the high spots of the rustication.  This would allow the briar to peek through in those places at least.  It also took a bit of the shine away from the shiny spots.

    Next came the restoration of the stem.  I have found that this type of plastic can be filed and sanded but that only with very fine abrasives.  Coarse grits or files cut deeply into the softer plastic and are a pain to remedy.  My small flat file was fine enough to not create an issue.  In sticking with this “finer is better” mentality, I opted against sanding sponges altogether.  Micro-mesh pads were used andonly from 1800-12000.

    I thought that I would have to accept the old fills because I could see no way for me to retexture and match the existing texture.  I worked Before and After Restoration Balm into the rustications with a baby toothbrush.  The balm was allowed to sit for 15 minutes.

    The remaining excess balm was removed using an inside out athletic sock and hand buffing.

    The rustications were shallos so I thought that carnauba wax would be acceptable to use as a preservative.  I did take my time and buff in the direction of the rustication.  The stem was also waxed with carnauba on the buffer.

    The final step was another hand buff with the microfiber polishing cloth.

    The EA Carey Billiard has very traditional shaping.  Traditional in the sense that it is well thought out and very pleasing to the eye and hand.  The thickness of the bowl at the rim is 0.27 inches (6.86 mm) and at the swell of the bowl it increases to 0.48 inches (12.19 mm).  This gradual thickening of the briar is a nice way to keep the pipe feeling cooler throughout the smoke.  As I would expect the thicker briar to absorb additional heat during the smoking of a bowl of tobacco.  The rustication allows for a nice grip and good hand feel though it looks rather like a factory mass produced texture.  The stem did polish up nicely and looks good.  The feel of this plastic is good, softer and more flexible than vulcanite.  Overall this is a very nice pipe that will serve its next owner many years of service.  The dimensions of the EA Carey Billiard are:

    Length:  6.10 in./ 154.94 mm.

    Weight:  1.41 oz./ 39.97 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.85 in./  46.99 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.65 in./ 41.91 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.80 in./ 20.32 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.46 in./ 37.08 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the  finished EA Carey Billiard.

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