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  • A Savinelli Extra 616 KS Restoration

    January 1st, 2026

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    I think I have only worked on 6-10 Savinelli pipes.  There have been four that I have blogged about, including this one, and another 3 or 4 that I restored before I was writing about the restorations.  Some of those early Savinelli restorations were Dry System pipes, Savinelli’s take on the Peterson System and a Punto Oro Mister G.  In general I have nothing but praise to give Savinelli pipes except for their vulcanite.  Savinelli’s acrylic stems are a thing of beauty with wonderful color schemes and excellent workmanship.  Their vulcanite on the other hand is shaped with care and precision but the darn stuff is nearly impossible to restore to the original gloss black.  I think I am getting ahead of myself again.  This Savinelli Extra 616 KS is an amazing pipe due to its incredible shape.  It’s classified as a bent billiard but that doesn’t do it justice.  It has wonderfully thick walls and a very substantial shank, making it similar in size to a Peterson 307 but larger in all the right places.  Yeah, I had to compare it to a Peterson since my experience with Petes is far more extensive than with Savinelli.  I picked this pipe up by making an offer on the poor pipe which no one was bidding on.  The seller accepted and the rest is history.  Upon arrival I took some photos of the pipe prior to working on it.

    I could definitely see why many people like this shape, it has wonderful proportions and feels great in hand.  This one needed some work, though.  The vulcanite stem was severely oxidized.  I hoped my previous experiences with Savinelli vulcanite would be different this time.  The stummel had a few dents which looked easy to fill and the existing fill were all secure and intact.  The tobacco chamber had a layer of cake which I hoped would not reveal hidden damage.  The rim looked good with only minor lava deposits.  Overall, this looked like a pretty easy restoration.

    Background

    Re-reading the blog about the Savinelli Porto Cervo, I thought, “why rewrite good information?”  So I didn’t.  Below is what I said about Savinelli in March 9th of 2024:

    “First off , let me provide some history of Savinelli.  As usual I employed pipedia.org and pipephil.eu for source information.  The pipedia.org section of Savinelli is well written and very informative.  I know I said I wanted to keep this brief but much of this is worthy of repeating, especially the “origins” of the company in 1876 and the post-WWII company as we know it.  

    Early Origins

    “1876 was a year of breakthroughs: Thomas Edison patented the mimeograph, Julius Wolff-Eastport canned sardines for the first time, Alexander Graham Bell made the first telephone call,

    Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky completed Swan Lake, Melville Bissel patented the first carpet sweeper, Mark Twain published Tom Sawyer, and in Milan, Italy, Achille Savinelli opened one of the first shops exclusively focused on tobacco and smoking accessories.

    That last item may seem relatively unimportant in the global scheme of advancements, but for those of us who love pipes, it was a monumental achievement, made even more difficult by the Italian government, which held a monopoly on tobacco. In addition, Achille was convinced that briar pipes represented the future of pipe smoking at a time when the market was dominated by clay and meerschaum. It may not have been obvious in 1876, but Achille Savinelli’s commitment to briar pipes would prove to be visionary.

    He soon began designing his own pipes (different from the styling we associate with Savinelli today) and arranged their manufacture by local pipemakers in the Varese district of north-west Italy. The pipes became so popular that some were exhibited at the 1881 Esposizione Industriale Italiana (Italian Industrial Exposition)—the precursor to today’s Milan Fair, one of the largest trade fairs in the world.” (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Savinelli)

    Post-WWII

    “With his two best friends, Amleto Pomé and Mario Vettoruzzo, he assembled a team of fifteen employees to start a new business in the Varese region—the same area of northwest Italy in which his grandfather, Achille Sr., commissioned his own designs more than 60 years before.

    Savinelli Pipes began production in 1948 and, although the pipes were of a superior quality and unique in their aesthetic, the brand wasn’t an immediate success. Few new brands are. It takes time for the public to catch on. Retailers were skeptical of placing Italian pipes alongside their best sellers from England or France, and customers, in turn, were hesitant to purchase a Savinelli over pipes by already established, foreign brands. Achille Jr. stood by his product, however; he knew it was only a matter of time before the world realized that these pipes were of a far superior quality, capable of competing with even the most well-established pipe manufacturers in the world. As it turns out, he was right. In less than a year, Savinelli pipes gained prestige in markets all across the world—heralded for their delicate balance of innovation and tradition, of form and function. Savinelli pipes were placed alongside the likes of Dunhill and Comoy’s in tobacconists from the United States to Europe, and, in time, this exposure modified Italy’s reputation; it was not only the premier exporter of briar, but now a premium source of fine briar pipes.” (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Savinelli)

    Who doesn’t love a success story where hard work and producing a quality product pays off and builds a dynasty?  A story for the soul.  Anyway, the whole article is worth a read. ” (A Savinelli Porto Cervo 677KS Salvage, I mean Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek).

    Yeah, I know, that was kind of lazy.  Now about this pipe:  Savinelli Extra 616 KS.  According to the official Savinelli site, “Model 616 KS is one of the biggest models which Savinelli offers to its customers. The big and deep chambered cylindrical bowl is visually balanced by a thick and robust cylindrical shank. A really masculine style.” (Savinelli Pipe – FORESTA 616 KS).    The number of Savinelli lines, brands, sub-brands etc… is dizzying:

    • Alligator
    • Amalfi
    • Arnold’s – 40-50’s sub-brand
    • Aurelia Ex.
    • Baronet
    • Bent Bob Pipes – Distributed in US
    • Big Nine
    • Bing’s Favorite
    • Black Set
    • Bruna’
    • Cadet – About 1960’s
    • Caffè
    • Capitol
    • Capri
    • Capt. Warren – Distributed in US
    • Caramella
    • Champagne
    • Chiara
    • Chocolat
    • Churchwarder
    • Clark’s
    • Columbus Series (Nina, Pinta, Santa Maria) – Made for the US market only
    • Deco with silver 925 ring
    • Dr. Forson – Vest pocket pipe like Roley. Unconfirmed!
    • Duca Carlo
    • Duca di Milano
    • Duca di Paolo
    • Elegance
    • Estella – Rejected “Autograph” pipes
    • Extra
    • Fiammata – Rejected “Giubileo D’Oro” – Straight Grain
    • Flammata – Subrand according to Peaceangel12000@yahoo.com Maybe confused with Fiammata?
    • Fuoco
    • Gaius
    • Ginger’s Favorite
    • Giotto
    • Giubileo Oro
    • Grezza
    • Grand Prix – About 1960’s – Brown Leather covered
    • Hercules – XXL pipes
    • Horoscope
    • Joker
    • King’s Cross (Imported Briar) – Distributed in US
    • Lady Savinelli a pipe designed for women
    • La Roma
    • La Una – Unconfirmed!
    • Linea Artisan
    • Linea Più
    • Lino
    • Logo
    • Lolita
    • Lollo – Stubby pocket pipe
    • Long John
    • Mediterranea
    • Melange
    • Melitta
    • Miele
    • Molinella
    • Monsieur
    • Natural
    • New Art – Artistic designs that take additional 20 steps of production
    • Night&Day
    • Noce
    • Non Pareil
    • ObiOne
    • Oceano
    • Onda
    • One
    • Ontario
    • Opera
    • Oscar
    • Panama
    • Pannocchia
    • Parade
    • Petite
    • Pisa
    • Piazza di Spagna
    • Pocket
    • Porto Cervo
    • Prince of Wales
    • Punto Oro
    • Qandale
    • Rimini
    • Riviera – Made for the international market only in the 9mm version
    • Roley – Vest pocket pipe; almost identic to “Rolex” by Brebbia
    • Roma
    • Royal Oak – Distributed in US
    • Samanda
    • Savinelli Professor
    • Savinelli Ecume
    • Seta
    • Siena
    • Sigla
    • Silver
    • Sistina
    • Soireè
    • Solaria
    • Spigot
    • Sport – About 1960’s – Chubby shape with very short stem or mouthpiece
    • Spring
    • Sun-set
    • Tevere
    • Tortuga
    • Toscana
    • Trevi
    • Tundra
    • Vaniglia
    • Virginia
    • Venere
    • Verona

    (Savinelli – Pipedia).  How anyone, even master factory craftsmen, can keep track of all that is remarkable.

    The Restoration

    The Extra 616 KS made its way to the workbench.

    I started with the stem.  The good news was there was no real tooth chatter.  I used a flat file to redefine the button and remove the general tooth denting.

    A wood block was used to help hold the stem for some light sanding to remove the surface oxidation.

    The airway of the stem was cleaned out with bristle pipe cleaners and 99% ethyl alcohol.

    I thought a 24 hour dip in the Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer would be adequate.

    Returning to the stummel I started cleaning the shank with the unused ends of the bristle pipe cleaners left from the stem.

    Numerous cotton swab, and shank brushing, all with  99% ethyl alcohol along with a good deal of scraping with a dental scraper helped clear the accumulated smoking residues.

    The reaming tools were assembled.

    The PippNet with it’s #2 and #3 blades did the majority of the reaming.

    I used the General triangular scraper and the Smokingpipes Low Country reamer for some clean-up.

    The reamed tobacco chamber looked much better.

    The chamber was sanded to bare briar using 320 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel.  No heat damage was evident.

    With the amount of tar and yuck in the shank airway I thought it would be best if I gave the stummel a cotton alcohol treatment.  The airway and tobacco chamber were stuffed with cotton.

    Normally 10 ml of 99% ethyl alcohol would be sufficient for this but the 616 KS has a very substantial bowl, so 15 ml were measured out.  The alcohol would be applied via a disposable pipette.

    The cotton was saturated with alcohol and would be left overnight.

    The next day the cotton showed the tell tale color of the deposited tars removed by the alcohol.

    The cotton was removed and the airway was again cleaned using alcohol dipped cotton swabs and some more scraping.

    The Savinelli made its way to the sink for a scrub with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    The dried stummel looked far better.

    A wipe down with a make-up pad dipped in 99% ethyl alcohol removed a bit of color, probably wax and some remaining grime.

    This did allow me a better look at the dents and dings in the briar.

    The two old fills remained quite secure and I decided to leave them in place, even though I truly dislike their pink color.

    The stem was removed from the Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer (deox) and allowed to drip excess solution from the stem using the patented Drip-O-Matic.  

    The stem was vigorously rubbed with a coarse shop rage to remove some of the oxidized vulcanite and the remaining solution.  The oxidized rubber can be seen on the rag in the photo below rag 

    Returning to the workbench, the stem was worked with Soft Scrub cleanser on make-up pads to remove more of the oxidized material.

    A liberal coating of mineral oil was applied to the stem to curtail further oxygen attack.

    To further remove the oxidation I sanded the stem with 320-600 sanding sponges.  The stem was secured to the shank and the shank masked with masking tape to prevent excessive sanding of the briar.  Between each sanding sponge the stem was rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a paper towel.

    Now, under normal room light the stem looked pretty good but when placed under the bright lights of the photography table the brown of oxidation was very evident.  Darn that Savinelli vulcanite.

    I wiped the stem with a make-up pad dipped in alcohol to remove the oil and reintroduced the stem to the Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer.  I left it in the solution for another 12 hours.

    This gave me plenty of time to work on the stummel.  To fill the dents and dings, I used thin cyanoacrylate and briar dust.  The new fills were filed with a small flat file and sanded smooth with sanding sponges.

    The rim was lightly topped with 400 grit sandpaper laid flat on a counter and the inner rine bevel reestablished using a small wood sphere and sanding sponges in grits 320 and 400.

    The stamps were taped over with masking tape for their protection.

    12 Hours later the stem was removed from deox again and allowed to drip for a few minutes.

    Back onto a clean side of the coarse shop rag.

    More vigorous rubbing yielded more oxidized vulcanite.

    Under normal lighting it looks good.

    Under bright photo lighting, not so much.  Darn Savinelli vulcanite.

    The stem and stummel both met the serials of sanding sponges from 320-3500.  The stem was again rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a paper towel between sponges.  The stem was wiped with an alcohol wetted make-up pad between sponges to remove sanding debris.

    The stem was then taken to the buffer where I used a rogue buffing compound to buff the stem.

    I switched wheels and then buffed with white buffing compound.  The buffing had the desired effect of giving the stem a wonderful gloss finish but under bright light, brown oxidation could still be seen.  Darn Savinelli vulcanite.

    I returning to the workbench the stummel was coated with Before and After Restoration Balm and the stem coated with Before and After Hard Rubber Balm.  These were allowed to sit for 30 minutes.

    Both balms were hand buffed with an inside out athletic sock to remove the excess balms.

    The pipe was returned to the buffer for several coats of carnauba wax.

    The final step was to hand buff the pipe with a microfiber polish cloth.

    I would love to say that I think this Savinelli turned out great.  Unfortunately, the oxidation of the stem stops me from saying great.  Acceptable, is a better term.  The stummel turned out very nicely and the polish of the stem is beautiful.  I think the only way to remove the oxidation would be to sand the shank and stem together and reduce the thickness of both to get to non-oxidized vulcanite.  This would alter the dimensions of the pipe overall and I do not think that is worth it.  I again say, “darn Savinelli vulcanite”.  For those thinking about purchasing an estate Savinelli, I recommend going with models which have acrylic stems unless the oxidized vulcanite suits your fancy.  This is still a wonderful pipe and will be a great smoker.

    The dimensions of the Savinelli Extra 616 KS are:

    Length:  5.58 in./ 141.73 mm.

    Weight:  2.25 oz./ 63.79 g.

    Bowl Height: 2.13 in./  54.10 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.84 in./ 46.74 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.83 in./ 21.08 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.74 in./ 44.20 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the finished Savinelli Extra 616 KS.

  • A J. Rettke Restoration

    December 26th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    I first laid eyes and hands on a Rettke pipe in July of 2025.  You can see that entire restoration here. I was taken by the rather nontraditional, double drilled shank, of the pipe.  These pipes are what I call “gimmick pipes”.  Now, not all gimmicks are equal.  I am sure that Charles Peterson was considered a gimmick pipe maker with his three patents for the Peterson system back in the late 1890s.  That gimmick has been used to great result and success for well over 125 years.I made an offer to the seller and was turned down.  The pipe sat through several auction cycles and remained unsold.  I made a lesser offer and it was accepted.  The virtue of patience strikes again.  The pipe did not have far to travel after the purchase, merely from Washington, Missouri to the wilds of southeast Nebraska.  Yes, the same Washington, Missouri as both the home of J. Rettke and Missouri Meerschaum pipes.  Below are some photos taken before I began working on the pipe.

    Overall a pretty clean specimen with no glaring issues.  The stem had oxidation expected of a 60+ year old pipe.  The internals looked clean.  There were no obvious fills, indicating a good quality briar.  The grain of this pipe was not as distinctive as the first Rettke I restored and I thought that maybe a contrast dye would bring out the existing grain.  The rubber seal/end of the “whirler” ( J. Rettke’s term for the spiral aluminum condenser) showed signs of drying and oxidation and may need to be addressed or replaced.  Otherwise a thorough cleaning was in order.

    Background

    I will use the same Background information that I used for the first Rettke restoration and include it here in its entirety:

    “I started my research on Rettke pipes with a pipedia.org search on “rettke”.  Below is the short entry from that site.

    “J. Rettke, Washington MO, PAT. June 12 1962. The silver colored thumbscrew below the stem unscrews and is a 2⅜” corkscrew like device. The company is now gone having been purchased by Missouri Meerschaum. This odd looking pipe is made of briar and has a lower chamber with a metal condenser and an upper chamber that contains a filter. The smoke leaves the bowl thru the lower chamber then into the upper and out the stem. It smokes dry and cool. It has a large bowl.”

    (Rettke – Pipedia)  I could not read the above newspaper article even by zooming in.  

    The next search was using Google patent and searching for “Rettke 1962”.  This search turned up the original patent diagrams:

    (1498404097506821639-D0194174)

    My next search was for Steve Laug’s Rebornpipes.com.  Steve Laug did a Rettke restoration back in 2017 and contained links to the State Historical Society of Missouri.  I could not get this site to produce the same document or to even display the link Mr. Laug has in his blog post.  I will link Steve Laug’s blog here:  Restoring a J. Rettke Patent Pipe from Washington, Missouri | rebornpipes.  It is a very well written and researched piece that does contain a transcript of the newspaper article as well as several photographs of Julius Rettke and the pipe making process.

    My favorite quotes from the newspaper article are,

    “The work is done in Mr. Rettke’s basement of his home at Third and Market streets. He doesn’t work at it every day only when he feels like it. He likes to fish and that comes before his pipes in the summer.”

    I can completely understand the lack of enthusiasm for pipe work when fishing is taking a priority.

    And this quote:

    “Mr. Rettke received his patent on his pipe in 1962. What makes his pipe different from others on the market is the path the smoke takes from the bowl, and the passage of smoke through a twisted piece of aluminum, or a “whirler.” The smoke also travels through a standard filter in a standard hard-rubber stem. The “whirler” has a rubber tip that shows on the outside of the pipe under the stem. The “whirler” also can be used as a pipe cleaning tool. It pulls out easily for cleaning purposes.”  Here the newspaper article talks about a rubber tipped “whirler”.  That is how the whirler of my pipe is made.  The other Rettke pipes I saw in photos all had a knurled aluminum tip.  This little fact is mostly non-important, I just found it interesting.

    Now for the fun part:  How does this pipe work?  In the news article transcript it said, “four holes are bored.” under the photo of J. Rettke at the drill press.  I read that after I had done my exploration of the stummel and it was in near complete agreement of what I observed.

    Using the above photo, I overlaid some image features to indicate the “four” drillings.  

    Not to be a smart ass, but I think Mr. Rettke would agree that there were actually 5 drillings.  The final hole would be a hole at the bottom of the tobacco chamber connecting the airway to the lower chamber.  I’ll blame the reporter for the oversight and not Mr. Rettke.” (A Rettke Pipe Restoration for the Real American Pipe Smokers (RAPS) Facebook group – NebraskaPeteGeek)

    The Restoration

    This pipe landed on the workbench and a cleaned denim piece.

    I decided to work on the whirler first.

    The rubber was dried and cracked.  I hoped this was only on the surface. 

    The rubber was coated with Mark Hoover’s Before and After Hard Rubber Balm.  Mark was kind enough to send me a bottle of this product to test.  I doubt that he ever imagined it to be used on a Rettke whirler but hey, it is rubber.  The whirler was set aside to allow the balm to work it’s magic.

    The stem was cleaned with several cotton swabs and pipe cleaners dipped in 99% ethyl alcohol.  The stem appeared to have been used without a Medico filter.

    After numerous cotton swabs, I took the stem to the sink for a scrubbing with Castile soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was used undiluted and as the photo below shows the brush came back with a good deal of smoking residue.  

    After the stem was rinsed with warm water, I returned to the workbench and found the cotton swab dipped in alcohol started coming back with far less color.  Victory!

    Once clean, the stem was suspended into a solution of Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer.  I ended up leaving the stem in the solution for a bit over 24 hours.  The following day was Christmas Eve and I was away from home for the day.

    The reaming gear was gathered.

    The PipNet with the #2 and #3 blades did most of the reaming.

    Some light clean-up scraping was done with the General triangular scraper.

    The below photo is of the reamed tobacco chamber.

    The chamber was sanded with 320 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel.  The bare briar showed no signs of any damage from heat.

    The shank cleaning was twice as much work as a normal pipe due to it having twice as many shank draft holes.  Weird, eh?  Again alcohol dipped cotton swabs and bristle pipe cleaners were used along with a bit of scraping with a dental scraper.  The upper chamber returned swabs with less charred residue than the lower chamber.

    I thought that an alcohol cotton treatment would be a good idea to fully clean and de-ghost the draft of this pipe.  Not that the previous user had used a foul smelling tobacco, it actually was a pleasant burley based aromatic from what my nose could tell.  The chambers and passageway was packed with cotton.

    Usually a pipe holds around 10 ml of 99% ethyl alcohol.  I figured this one might hold a bit more.  The alcohol would be applied with a disposable pipette.

    The saturated alcohol would be allowed to evaporate overnight.  This would dissolve the remaining smoking residues and tar and move them into the cotton as the alcohol evaporated.

    With the stem and stummel now occupied with long term waiting procedures, I cleaned up the aluminum of the whirler with 99% ethyl alcohol and cotton swabs.

    The next morning I returned to the workbench for a few minutes before heading to the Christmas Eve celebrations.  The cotton had picked up the color of deposited tars.

    The cotton was removed with tweezers.  I again used alcohol dipped cotton swabs and bristle pipe cleaners to repeat the airway cleaning to remove any remaining, now softened, residues.

    The next evening, I removed the stem from the deoxidizing solution and used the patented Drip-Dry-O-Matic, okay, it’s not patented.  Yet!  

    The stem was vigorously rubbed with a coarse shop rag to remove remaining solution and some of the softened oxidized rubber.

    Back at the workbench the stem looked kind of rough but black.

    I used some Soft Scrub cleanser of make-up pads to clean off additional oxidized vulcanite.

    The stem was then sanded, with more attention on the tooth chatter above the button, with 320-600 grit sanding sponges.  Between each sponge the stem was rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a dry paper towel to remove sanding debris.

    It was time to see how a contrast dye would enhance the briar grain.  I thought that a base of black with a top coat of Mahogany would look very nice.  Both dyes were Fiebing’s Leather Dye applied with a pipe cleaner, flamed with a flighter. 

    Below you can see the stummel after a coating of the black Fiebing’s.  The cork was placed in the tobacco chamber to keep the dye out.

    I only wanted the black dye to be absorbed more deeply by the softer grain.  I then rinsed the dye from the stummel using 91% isopropyl alcohol over the sink then wiped the stummel with a paper towel.

    When sanded with a 400 grit sanding sponge, both harder and softer grain was removed.  The dye had penetrated the softer grain deeper than the harder grain.

    Next came the mahogany applied with a pipe cleaner.

    I again rinsed the dye from the stummel with 91% isopropyl and wiped with a paper towel.  Returning to the workbench I sanded the stummel with 400 then 600 grit sanding sponges.  Below you can see how the black accentuated the grain and how the mahogany added warmth to the non-blackened areas.

    After a drying time of about 30 minutes I applied a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm to the briar and a coating of Before and After Hard rubber Balm to the stem and rubber of the whirler.  This was allowed to sit for about an hour.

    The balms were hand buffed from the pipe with an inside out athletic sock.

    The pipe, both stem and stummel were then buffed with rogue buffing compound at the buffer.  The pipe was wiped with an alcohol wetted make-up pad to remove any remaining buffing compound then returned to the buffer for several coats of carnauba wax.

    The final step was to hand buff the pipe with a microfiber polish cloth.

    After restoring the first J. Rettke pipe, I wrote this sentence in the conclusion. “Of the many gimmick pipes I’ve had the pleasure of working on, I think this one would actually be an effective system for condensing steam.  It just makes sense.”  I could not have said it better, myself.  Wait, I did say it.  Anyway, this pipe turned out very well.  The contrast dye is what I hope it would look like – greater definition of the briar grain.  The stem polished up nicely.  I tried the draw both with and without Medico filters and the draw was very good either way.  With the first J. Rettke, I ended the conclusion by typing, “I would consider this an artisanal pipe from a time before artisanal was cool.”  I couldn’t have said that better, myself.  Now for the part I had been looking forward to since I saw the first Rettke, smoking it and seeing firsthand if J. Rettke’s patent was effective or another gimmick.  The dimensions of the J. Rettke are:

    Length:  5.88 in./ 149.35 mm.

    Weight:  1.46 oz./ 41.39 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.92 in./  48.77 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.42 in./ 36.07 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.71 in./ 18.03 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.41 in./ 35.81 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the finished J. Rettke pipe.

  • A Peterson Brymeer Dublin (120) Restoration

    December 23rd, 2025

    Photographed and Written by

    John M. Young

    If you have read a few of my blogs you know I have a thing for Peterson pipes.  Oh yeah, the name NebraskaPeteGeek may also provide a clue.  Anyway, I have returned to Peterson restoration.  This particular pipe was a line unfamiliar to me, Brymeer.  I found it strange that there were only 3 others bidding on this pipe and when I won it for less than $20 I was even more surprised.  Given, it was in rough and dirty shape.  After a journey from Lowell, Indiana to the wilds of southeast Nebraska the pipe arrived.  Below are some photos taken before I began work on the pipe.

    Hmm, where to start with this one?  The stem was severely oxidized with a couple of deeper tooth dents.  I feared losing the GREAT BRITAIN COM stamp with oxidation removal.The stummel was quite dirty but looked good otherwise.  The rim was a mess with chips in the meerschaum liner.  The tobacco chamber was carbon caked, who knows what lies under that?  I do like a challenge.

    Background

    I have said it before and likely will again, “For a great history Mark Irwin and Gary Marlburg’s book is a must read for a Pete Geek.

    (Available at https://www.smokingpipes.com/accessories/books/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=471478)  Given the price is a bit high but worth every penny for a Peterson aficionado.

    The next site is pipedia.org’s History of Peterson by Jim Lilley (Peterson – Pipedia)

    Lastly the pipephil.eu site for all things logo:  Peterson: historical pipes — Pipes: Logos & Markings (pipephil.eu)  They also have a few other links to things like the Peterson timeline and P-lip information.

    Another amazing site full of Peterson information is, Peterson Pipe Notes.  I can wholeheartedly recommend the free at

    https://petersonpipenotes.org/  Yes, you will get emails but only for things like the weekly blog post and occasional Peterson pipe drops (like the Peterson Pipe Notes Pipe of the Year) or offers for cool Pete Geek merchandise.

    According to the Big Book, also known as The Peterson Pipe, 

    “Brymeer (1971-75) Offered only in Iwan Ries catalogs, meerschaum-lined black sandblast briar and P-lip of fishtail mouthpiece.  Produced by Peterson-Manxman factory” (The Peterson Pipe  Irwin, Mark and Malmberg, Gary.  The Peterson Pipe; The Story of Kapp and Peterson. 2018, Briar Books Press, Canada. First edition, second printing. p. 308)

    “What is this Peterson-Manxman Factory?”, you ask.  Pipedia.org to the rescue.

    “Laxey Pipes Ltd. resided in a historical 19th century four-storey Man stone building at The Quay, Old Laxey, Isle of Man, which thankfully has been preserved.

    The company specialised in the production of meerschaum pipes using the Meerschaum mined by the Tanganyika Meerschaum Corporation in the Amboseli basin in Tanganyika (since 1964 part of the United Republic of Tanzania).

    Please note: you may often find names like “Manx Pipes Ltd.”, “Man Pipe Co.” and others more, but there is no indication of another Isle of Man pipe producer other than Laxey Pipe Ltd. at any time!

    Laxey Pipes Ltd. marketed own brands like “Manxpipe”, “Manxman”, “Manxland” e.c. Names like “John Bull”, “White Knight” (unwaxed), “Domino” (black, or lined) indicated some shapes / colours of Laxey’s own series. The stems either showed the astronomical sign for “male” or “man” (circle + arrow), or the crest of the Isle of Man, the 3-legged X in a circle. Manxpipes and Laxey’s other brands were available through pipe retailers in general, but also were sold (mainly) to tourists through their own shop in Laxey.

    Furthermore Laxey Pipes Ltd. manufactured the meer bowls for Peterson, Barling, Nørding and others from the later 1960’s until 2001. Man Pipe e.g. was a brand distibuted by Comoy’s. The bowls usually showed no nomenclature indicating the orderer. “Genuine Block Meerschaum” was engraved frequently. Often, just the stems were different, while bowls were the same. 

    Supply of meerschaum from East Africa run out (Kenya / Tanzania exhausted, Somalia inaccessible), and thus the last Laxey meers were supplied to trade in May, 2001. Laxey Pipes Ltd. tried to survive continuing with briar pipes – mainly in the Danish style -, but to no success. It closed down business in July, 2002.” (Laxey Pipes Ltd. – Pipedia)

    There we have it, this pipe was made between 1971-1975 in the Peterson-Manxman factory on the Isle of Man.  That is a darn definitive piece of provenance if ever there was one.

    The Restoration

    The slightly battered dirty girl made her way to the workbench and a clean denim piece.

    The first order of business was to clear the accumulated cake from the tobacco chamber.  This proved to be a much more difficult job that I imagined.  I did not use a reamer like the Kleen-Reem or the PipNet due to the threat of cracking the meerschaum liner with additional torque, instead the Smokingpipe Low Country reamer and the very sharp pocket knife were deployed.

    Let me assure you that both diamonds and cake on meerschaum have a similar hardness.  The scraping continued.

    Eventually I moved to the wood dowel wrapped in 320 grit sandpaper.

    Next, came the cleaning of the stem.  This was done with 99% ethyl alcohol and bristle pipe cleaners.

    The stem was then hung, suspended, in Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer.  I had not used this wonderful product for a few months because the fine folks at Briarville had sent me a complimentary bottle of their Pipe Ste Oxidation Remover.  That bottle had finally started giving less  and less desired results after about 9 months and approximately 30 pipe stems.  Mark Hoover’s Before and After product seems to last longer, doing more pipes, and though a bit more difficult to remove the solution after deoxidizing, I think it works slightly better overall.  Since this stem was quite oxidized, I figured 24 hours in the solution would be adequate.

    With the stem out of the picture for a day, I switched to the stummel.  It was scrubbed with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush over the sink.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    The stummel looked much better once cleaned.

    I wiped the stummel with a cotton ball wetted with 99% ethyl alcohol and it only removed a slight bit of dirt and no dye.

    Still unimpressed with my removal of the cake from the tobacco chamber, I returned to scraping it with the General triangular scraper, the pocket knife and a rotary tool grinder mounted to a hand drill.  This combination helped free the caked carbon from the bowl better but still not to my satisfaction.  I feared marring the meerschaum with more aggressive methods. 

    The next evening, I removed the stem from the Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer and let it drip excess solution back into the jar.

    After drip drying the stem was vigorously rubbed with a coarse shop rag to remove some of the oxidized vulcanite.

    The shop rag shows the removed oxidized rubber.

    Another of my fears with this pipe was the obliteration of the stem stamps from the deoxidation.  I was glad to see that the stamps remained legible, though faint.

    The tooth dents above the button were addressed with rubberized cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue).  These were filed smooth and sanded.

    The stem was then sanded with 320-600 grit sanding sponges.  The ste log and Country of manufacture (COM) stamps were masked with masking tape to protect them during the sanding.

    The stem was then worked with a series of sanding sponges.  Between each sponge the stem was rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a clean dry paper towel to remove sanding debris.

    The chip on the rim of the meerschaum bowl liner had me thinking of ways to repair it.  The area was rough enough and the meerschaum porous, so I thought that I could use the old technique of egg white and meerschaum dust to fill the chipped area.  

    I  made a paste with the egg white and meerschaum dust and applied it with a snuff spoon.

    The chip looked better and I thought it would lighten as it dried.  It did lighten then fell out.  I repeated the attempt with the same results.  I could not get the eggwhite-meerschaum dust paste to adhere to the existing meerschaum.  Strike one and two.

    With my brain engaged with chip solutions, I turned to a more repetitive task while I thought.  I micro-meshed the stem with 4000-12000 micro-mesh pads. Between each pad I rubbed the stem with Obsidian Oil and wiped it with a dry paper towel. I then repainted the Stem logo with a white acrylic modeling paint.

    I used the Before and After Fine Polish then the Extra Fine Polish on a soft cotton cloth and hand buffed each.

    The stem was then buffed with carnauba wax on the buffer.

    The stummel received a coating of Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax applied with a baby toothbrush.

    In the above photo you can see the repaired chip loosening in preparation to fall out. The stummel was then worked with a shoeshine brush to polish the Renaissance Wax.  

    I was at two strikes for chip repair.  My thought process was working out other potential solutions  I had two other ideas for repairing the chip:

    1. Cut a and shape a replacement chip from stock meerschaum and gluing it in place with clear JB Weld.  This product was preferred due to its ability to withstand high temperatures.
    2. Mixing some clear JB Weld epoxy and meerschaum dust.  Then applying the epoxy-meerschaum to the chip, allow it to cure then sand to blend.

    Both ideas relied on the ability of the epoxy to adhere to the meerschaum and I hoped the heating and cooling or expansion and contraction of the materials would be compatible.

    I opted to try the chip replacement with a new meerschaum chip, first.

    The first part of this idea required a fairly accurately measured replacement piece of meerschaum.  My father, a Geography and Industrial Technology (shop) teacher by original training, frequently said, “Measure twice and cut once.”  Cautious measurements were taken and transferred to the piece of block meerschaum.  The only meerschaum I had was of Turkish origin and not the more off-white African version as with the bowl liner.

    Below you can see a better view of the proposed chip replacement.

    To cut this delicate material, I used a Dremel rotary tool with a thin cut-off bit.

    Below is a photo of the replacement chip.

    With some fine tuning of the replacement chip’s  edges a good fit was eventually found.

    As previously mentioned JB Weld clear epoxy was the adhesive of choice.  Equal parts were measured and mixed according to packaging directions.

    The epoxy was applied to both surfaces and the replacement chip fitted to the gap.  I thought that I could come back to trim the excess epoxy after it had set-up for about an hour.  It would still be soft enough to cut away from the meerschaum with an Exacto knife.

    After the epoxy had set up for about 6 hours I applied a piece of masking tape and cut out for the replacement chip.  This allowed me to remove the excess material using an emery board without marring the rim.

    The emery board made short work of the soft meerschaum.

    Additional sanding was done using a wood sphere wrapped in 320 sandpaper and a piece of 400 sandpaper by hand.

    Below is a view of the replacement chip immediately before final sanding with the 400 sandpaper.

    Since I had already waxed the stem and stummel , all that remained was a hand polish with a microfiber polishing cloth and a stop at the photo table.  

    I think this Peterson Brymeer Dublin turned out quite well compared to how she looked originally.  The briar’s sandblast cleaned-up very nicely.  With the dark original stain of the stummel there is a lovely contrast to the slightly off-white meerschaum lining.  The stem deoxidized remarkably well.  I was able to retain both the COM and the P logo on the stem.  The fresh vulcanite looks great with the black of the briar.  The chipped rim repair turned out about as well as I could have hoped.  Yes, it is noticeable but with a few smokes, I think the meerschaum will color and conceal the repair almost completely.  The tobacco chamber cake was very resistant to removal. I guess there is a reason that diamonds are so tough.  This carbon was nearly diamond-like in its resistance to removal, but in the end most of it was cleared.  The dimensions of the Peterson Byrmeer Dublin are as follows:

    Length:  6.06 in./ 153.92 mm.

    Weight:  1.22 oz./ 34.59 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.89 in./  48.01 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.55 in./ 39.37 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.71 in./ 18.03 mm.

    Outside Diameter:  1.38 in./ 35.05 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the finished Peterson Byrmeer Dublin.

  • A Kaywoodie Meerschaum Apple Restoration

    December 5th, 2025

    Photographed and Written by

    John M. Young

    I remember studying the Ancient Greeks in 9th grade.  The whole philosophy of Stoicism struck me as great.  Relying on rational thought over emotion was somehow appealing, which is funny because having worked with adolescents for a 33 year career as a secondary teacher, I quickly learned that nearly all of their decisions have nothing to do with reason.  Come to think of it neither do mine.  This pipe for example, a Kaywoodie meerschaum apple which by the seller’s description:

    (Kaywoodie Meerschaum Apple/Ball Rusticated Estate Tobacco Pipe Sold As Is | eBay)

    What rational thinker would want to deal with a meerschaum pipe that has a hole that ”goes all the way through”?  That is the fun part of rationality, one can rationalize just about anything.  The pipe called out to me partially because of the uncommonality of Kaywoodie meers but also because of the shape.  Yeah I know, two more irrational thoughts.  Then there was the whole challenge of, “can I restore it?”   That one I could more easily rationalize with, “it would be a good way to practice repairing meerschaum pipes.”  Besides, it is cold outside, there is snow on the ground and the lake is becoming covered with hard water, limiting my  fishing.

    The pipe had no markings or stamps indicating the maker other than the Kaywoodie cloverleaf on the stem and the Kaywoodie 4 hole stinger.  My immediate thought was that it was actually a Laxey product.  More on that in the background.  Normally I would write something like. “Below are some photos of the pipe before work began.” but I actually had picked at the apparent fill on the outside of the pipe a little bit before I took the following photos.

    For the most part this looked like a pipe in great condition.  The stem was not oxidized, there was no tooth chatter and it aligned correctly when screwed in.  The interior of the tobacco chamber had been scraped and sanded and looked good, except for the gaping hole.  This hole continued through the side of the stummel.  I developed a plan in my mind of how to address this hole:

    1. Cut a piece of meerschaum, from a piece of scrap meerschaum, that would be fit to the hole on the inside of the tobacco chamber.  This would be like an inlay.
    2. Fill the hole in the side of the pipe with a mixture of epoxy and meerschaum powder from both the tobacco chamber and from the outer-side of the stummel.
    3. Place the meerschaum inlay onto the epoxy fill and into the hole.
    4. Allow the epoxy to cure.
    5. Top the outside fill with meerschaum powder mixed with eggwhite and sand the meerschaum inlay smooth with the tobacco chamber.
    6. Dye the fill on the outside of the pipe with a strongly brewed tea to match the color of the meerschaum.
    7. Apply a molten beeswax to the surface of the stummel.

    Hmm, it sounded like a reasonable plan but like all of my plans, they tend to have trouble when exposed to reality.  You may be wondering, “What the heck is egg white used for?”  There is a technique for repairing meerschaum pipes using powdered chalk mixed with eggwhite.  I have used this technique previously in the restoration of a Kiko Caveman (Kiko Caveman Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek).  In that blog post there is the original recipe and instructions as well as an exchange between me Dal Stanton and Paresh Deshpande regarding the durability of the repair.  I now have a small supply of meerschaum pieces so I planned on replacing the chalk with meerschaum powder.

    Background

    Having restored a few meerschaum pipes, I had a feeling (yeah, not very Stoic) that this was a Laxey.  The following reasons were indicators:  The color was not the bright white associated with Turkish meerschaum, the lack of any maker marks, the proprietary Kaywoodie stinger and the general lower quality of the meerschaum as seen by the flaws. 

    Like I mentioned earlier, I thought the pipe was likely a Laxey product.  Below is the entry on Laxey Pipes from pipedia.org:  

    “Laxey Pipes Ltd. resided in a historical 19th century four-storey Man stone building at The Quay, Old Laxey, Isle of Man, which thankfully has been preserved.

    The company specialised in the production of meerschaum pipes using the Meerschaum mined by the Tanganyika Meerschaum Corporation in the Amboseli basin in Tanganyika (since 1964 part of the United Republic of Tanzania).

    Please note: you may often find names like “Manx Pipes Ltd.”, “Man Pipe Co.” and others more, but there is no indication of another Isle of Man pipe producer other than Laxey Pipe Ltd. at any time!

    Laxey Pipes Ltd. marketed own brands like “Manxpipe”, “Manxman”, “Manxland” e.c. Names like “John Bull”, “White Knight” (unwaxed), “Domino” (black, or lined) indicated some shapes / colours of Laxey’s own series. The stems either showed the astronomical sign for “male” or “man” (circle + arrow), or the crest of the Isle of Man, the 3-legged X in a circle. Manxpipes and Laxey’s other brands were available through pipe retailers in general, but also were sold (mainly) to tourists through their own shop in Laxey.

    Furthermore Laxey Pipes Ltd. manufactured the meer bowls for Peterson, Barling, Nørding and others from the later 1960’s until 2001. Man Pipe e.g. was a brand distibuted by Comoy’s. The bowls usually showed no nomenclature indicating the orderer. “Genuine Block Meerschaum” was engraved frequently. Often, just the stems were different, while bowls were the same.

    Supply of meerschaum from East Africa run out (Kenya / Tanzania exhausted, Somalia inaccessible), and thus the last Laxey meers were supplied to trade in May, 2001. Laxey Pipes Ltd. tried to survive continuing with briar pipes – mainly in the Danish style -, but to no success. It closed down business in July, 2002.” (Laxey Pipes Ltd. – Pipedia)

    Side Note

    If you are interested, I wrote more extensively about the meerschaum deposits in Tanzania when doing research on a Kiko Caveman pipe.  That can be found here:  Kiko Caveman Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek.

    Back to this Kaywoodie.  In trying to date this pipe we can use the stinger as a kind of reference.  According to pipephil.eu the 4 hole stinger began in 1924.  These early stingers were part of a push fit mortis-tenon.  In “1931 when the SynchroStem patent was granted” (Document: Kaywoodie’s Drinkless patent — Pipes : Logos & Markings –) Kaywoodie’s screw-in stinger was adopted. 

    Kaywoodie’s Synchrostempatent can be seen here:(Document: Kaywoodie’s SynchroStem patent — Pipes : Logos & Markings –).

    The move to the 3 hole stinger over the 4 hole stinger occurred at an “indeterminant date”.  (Document: Kaywoodie’s 3 hole stinger — Pipes : Logos & Markings –)

    The pipephil quote, “Four hole stingers may still occur on pipes in the 60’s.” (Document: Kaywoodie’s 3 hole stinger — Pipes : Logos & Markings –) does give a reasonable ending date to the production of this pipe.  

    Another clue to the date of this Kaywoodie can be found with the stem logo.  According to the Kaywoodie Collector’s Guide from the pipedia.org site, “Early (pre-1936) Kaywoodies had an “elongated” white cloverleaf on the bit, a large fitment, and four-digit shape numbers. The 1936 catalog shows a larger, “fuller” leaf, but lists two-digit shape numbers. Sometime between 1936 and 1947, the better pipes were marked on the bits with a black cloverleaf in a white circle. The white cloverleaf continued on the lesser pipes. However, this was not a consistent convention, as pipes of the same grade could have either type of leaf.” (Collector’s Guide to Kaywoodie Pipes – Pipedia).  Again the dates here intricate the 1936-1947 period but show no definitive years. 

    Using the Synchrostem information from pipephil.eu and the logo information from pipedia.org the dates 1936-1947 overlap from both sources.  The issue here is that Laxey produced pipes from the “latter 1960’s until 2001” (Laxey Pipes Ltd. – Pipedia).  Okay, I have no actual proof that this was a Laxey carved piece of meerschaum and the latter 1960s are 20 years from the stated time of Kaywoodie’s black cloverleaf in a white circle.  This leads to some conjecture on my part.  I still believe this pipe to be a piece of African meerschaum, likely manufactured by Laxey perhaps fitted with a stash of older bits provided by Kaywoodie in the late 1960s.

    The Restoration

    The Kaywoodie made its way to the workbench.  Actually, back to the workbench after my earlier exterior picking of the older fill.  

    I picked at the pit on the outside edge of the stummel to remove the loose material.  I assumed this to be an attempt at filling the pit from the factory.  The material was white and much softer than the surrounding meerschaum.

    As I was examining the pipe more closely I noticed that the drillings were not very precise.  The draft hole was slightly off-center.  I did not think this would affect the performance of the pipe significantly.

    Next I looked at the meerschaum pieces I had on hand.  I bought an old “carve your own meerschaum pipe” kit over a year ago as a source of scrap meerschaum to use for projects like this.  It had several pieces of the mineral.

    These pieces showed many surface flaws.  I assumed that these flaws would also likely be found inside the pieces and would only be exposed by drilling or cutting the meerschaum  This is what I thought were the source of the “hole” in the Kaywoodie.

    Below is another photo of the flaws in a piece of meer.

    The piece of meerschaum that I selected to be a donor.  

    My father, the high school drop-out with a PhD., earned his original teaching degree in wood shop and geography.  His accomplishments likely influenced my own interests in life.  I remember him saying, “measure twice, cut once” on many occasions when we were doing various projects.  I continue using his advice except, I typically measure more than twice.

    This piece of meerschaum was selected because it seemed to have far fewer flaws than some of the other pieces.

    Due to the very brittle nature of meerschaum I opted to do the cutting with a Dremel and a narrow cutoff wheel.

    Below is a photo of the cutoff bit.

    I tried a sample cut to get a feel for cutting meerschaum with the dremel before cutting the real piece.  It worked! I was amazed at how the meerschaum smelled like talcum powder.

    The Dremel was used to cut the rough inlay piece.  Below you can see the inlay piece laid on top of the pit.

    More measuring and marking to get the inlay to fit the pit was done.

    Trimming and fitting to the pit took more time than I would like to discuss.  Lets just say it was a long tedious process.

    Loooong and teeedious.  Eventually I was happy with the shape and fit of the inlay piece of meerschaum.

    Next, I need meeschaum powder.  I used the same piece of meerschaum and an emery board to generate some powder.

    Clear J-B Weld was the epoxy of choice due to its ability to withstand high temperature.  The epoxy was mixed as per label instructions then mixed with some meerschaum powder.

    This meer-epoxy mix was applied to the pit and worked into the hole.

    The inlay piece was then gently pressed onto the meer-epoxy.

    From the outside hole, I applied more of the meer-epoxy filling the hole from the outside.  I allowed a slight depression here thinking that I would fill this depression with the meer-eggwhite mixture once the epoxy had completely cured.

    I did top the still “wet” epoxy with some meerschaum powder, in hopes of giving the meerschaum-eggwhite mixture greater surface area to adhere to.

    Below is a photo of the outside fill after the epoxy had cured for 8 hours.

    The inlay was sanded smooth to the surface of the tobacco chamber using 320 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel then by hand with 400 grit sandpaper.

    The next day the epoxy had partially cured and the fill had a slightly transparent look.  The topping with the meerschaum powder did not seem to have formed the rough texture I had hoped for.

    Dinner that night now had to include some egg mixed with the fried potatoes and Thanksgiving turkey leftovers burritos that was planned.  No sense wasting an entire egg for a few ml of eggwhite, eh?  The eggwhite was mixed with meerschaum powder. 

    This mixture was applied to the area I wanted filled.  As the eggwhite-meer mixture dried, it contracted, leaving a crack and pulling away from the sides of the fill.  While it was still soft I was able to add a tiny bit more of the mixture and work it to repair the cracks.  I also tried to give the slightly pliable mixture a bit more texture so it blended with the texture of the surrounding meerschaum.

    The stummel needed an overnight to fully cure.  I turned my attention to the stem.  I cleaned it with bristle pipe cleaners and 99% ethyl alcohol.

    I touched-up the edge of the button with a small flat file and sanded the stem with a 400 grit sanding sponge.

    Then I scrubbed the stem with Soft Scrub cleanser to remove the light oxidation.

    The shank of the pipe was wrapped in masking tape to protect it from the buffing which I wanted to do next.

    At the buffer I worked the stem with white buffing compound hoping to remove the surface oxidation and restore the shine.

    The buffing helped but I thought that my buffing skills could use a bit more work.  I used Before and After Fine and Extra Fine Polish on a soft cloth to hand polish the stem.

    The next day, now 36 hours of cure time for the epoxy and 14 hours of eggwhite-meer drying, this is how the fill looked.  Still an ugly scar.  Maybe it will look better after the new beeswax?

    I proceeded with cleaning out the shank with bristle pipe cleaners and 99% ethyl alcohol.

    Next, the pipe was taken to the sink for a scrub with warm water and a nylon brush.

    The stummel looked clean but I still didn’t like that scar.

    Hmm, tea time for me and the too white meerschaum scar.  I brewed a nice strong Irish breakfast tea for me and to stain the meerschaum.

    The tea was applied with a paintbrush and it softened the white, slightly.

    It remained a rather ugly scar.

    I use a hot water bath to melt the beeswax.  A small jelly jar with the beeswax is set in boiling water.  The water, once hot, melts the wax and will keep the beeswax liquid for longer amounts of time.  The tin is used to catch dripping wax as I brush it onto the meerschaum while the heatgun provides heat to the stummel and to the wax as it is applied. 

    I pre-heated the stummel with the heat gun.  A wine bottle cork was used to plug the tobacco chamber and as a handle.

    Below you can see the boiling water melting the beeswax.

    Once melted I turned off the burner and had plenty of time to work with the liquid wax.

    The pipe was returned to the workbench to cool.

    The new beeswax application did little to improve the scar.  I added additional wax to the repair fill to cover the slight cracks present.  This new wax was melted with a lighter to fill the cracks.

    The final step was to hand polish the pipe with a microfiber polishing cloth.

    I would like to say that this Kaywoodie Meerschaum Apple turned out beautifully, but that darn scar still bothers me.  I was pleased with the hole filling and meerschaum inlay of the tobacco chamber.  That part of the plan worked better than I imagined.  The stem also turned out very nicely.  The glossy black provides a great contrast to the creamy meerschaum.  Overall the color of the meerschaum is a warm light yellow and should age and color nicely with use.  If nothing else, this pipe allowed me to work with another meerschaum pipe and try a repair which went from a problem to a potential solution to an actual repair.  It will be interesting to see how well the repair lasts and how the coloring of the meerschaum develops.  The dimensions of this Kaywoodie Meerschaum Apple are:

    • Length: 6.10 in./ 154.94 mm.
    • Weight:  1.17 oz./ 33.17 g.
    • Bowl Height: 1.55 in./ 39.37 mm.
    • Chamber Depth: 1.21 in./ 30.73 mm.
    • Chamber Diameter: 0.80 in./ 20.32 mm.
    • Outside Diameter: 1.74 in./ 44.20 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the finished Kaywoodie Meerschaum Apple.

  • A Kaywoodie Tuckaway Dublin Restoration

    December 1st, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    This is the third Kaywoodie Tuckaway that I have come across.  The previous two were purchased and restored before I started blogging restorations, prior to October 31, 2023.  They are two of my favorite pipes and have places in a three-pipe rack on my mantleplace.  Below is a photo of the three amigos.

    The stamping of my original two, the first has KAYWOODIE over Super Grain (in script) over IMPORTED BRIAR (on the shank bottom), a 042 on the right side shank and a logo-less stem.  The second pipe has KAYWOODIE over Standard (in script) over IMPORTED BRIAR on the left shank with 022 on the right and a Kaywoodie clover logo stem.  I identified the newest pipe from what appeared to be an assortment of pipe parts on eBay.  Apparently no one else thought this mess was worth the $9.99 opening bid.

    The newest pipe has no discernable stampings but it does have a Kaywoodie clover logo stem.  The stems of all three pipes are interchangeable.  Below are some photos of the pipe prior to starting work on it.

    No stamping bottom, left nor right.

    The only distinguishing feature is the stem logo.

    The pipe was in relatively good shape.  It had a moderate cake in the tobacco chamber and some lava on the rim.  The stem showed signs of tooth chatter but without any deep dents or wear.  The fit of the stem in the mortise was snug and proper.  The grime on the stummel made it a bit difficult to see the grain of the briar but there were hints of beauty under the accumulated dirtiness.  As for the slightly off colored clover logo, I thought it would brighten to the original white once sanded.  Overall, this looked like a nice and easy restoration.

    Background

    Kaywoodie has a long and colorful history dating back to their origins, “Kaywoodie name first appearing in February of 1919.” (Kaywoodie History – Greywoodie LLC) The history of Kaywoodie pipes is fortunately well documented thus, allowing rather precise dates for a Kaywoodie collector to declare the provenance of their charges.  Rather than deposit it here, I will link the two outstanding histories of KB&B/Kaywoodie – Greywoodie’s site has a well written history of the company (Kaywoodie History – Greywoodie LLC) and pipedia.org has pretty much the same written history with a rich library of Kaywoodie catalogs, photos and images of old print advertisements, (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Kaywoodie).  I can’t recommend them enough for those interested in reading more about the company and the products.  There is a third document which provides information more specific for tracing the providence of a specific pipe or model of pipes and that is he Collector’s Guide to Kaywoodie Pipes (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Collector%27s_Guide_to_Kaywoodie_Pipes).

    • Tuckaway. The 1955 catalog shows a Drinkless Tuckaway that was simply a smaller version of other Kaywoodie styles. The Tuckaways of the 1955-1968 period had military mountings, filter-free see-thru bits, and were packaged in a leatherette case. Available in Standard, Relief Grain, and Super Grain grades ($6-$8, depending on grade). Miniatures. Two-inch miniature replicas of “their big brother”, complete with the Drinkless fitment and Synchro Stem. The catalogs show these as individually-cased pipes but multiple pipe sets were apparently available. Price: $5.00 (Collector’s Guide to Kaywoodie Pipes – Pipedia)

    Back in October, 2025 Dal Stanton published a restoration blog about a Kaywoodie Tuck away that he did New Life for a Rare, Early 1960s Kaywoodie ‘Tuckaway’ Standard 050B – The Pipe Steward.  This well researched and written post does a fine job at documenting the Kaywoodie Tuckaway far better than I have done.  Dal’s pipe also has the “filter-free see-through bits” alluded to in the Collector’s Guide quoted above.  This forces the question of when did Kaywoodie produce the three examples which I have come across?  Well the only thing which I state is the above quote, “The Tuckaways of the 1955-1968 period had military mountings” (Collector’s Guide to Kaywoodie Pipes – Pipedia).  The bits associated with these three pipes are not exactly vulcanite, nor are they nylon.  They are apparently some different plastics.  They do not oxidize like vulcanite but they are softer than acrylic.  They dent from tooth chatter more like nylon but they are easier to sand file and sand than the nylon bits of Medico or Falcon pipes.  The white clover logo does show a yellowing with age which was refreshed to the white with sanding. 

    The Restoration

    After the “Before” photos the pipe made its way to the workbench.

    Reaming was the first task.  The PipNet with #1 and #2 blades, the Smokingipes Low Country reamer and the General triangular scraper were recruited for the task.

    The PipNet blades did most of the work. 

    This Tobacco chamber was drilled with a more conical bit, as is traditional for a Dublin shape pipe.  The Kleen-Reem fit this chamber better that the PipNet and was used as well.

    There was little for the General to do, but for a bit of clean-up.

    Below is a down chamber photo of the reaming results.

    The chamber was sanded with 320 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel.  The exposed bare briar showed no signs of any heat damage.

    The rim had a layer of lava on the back half.  I hoped there wouldn’t be any charring underneath.

    The rim was moistened with saliva.  I then took the knife upstairs for a resharpening on the sharpening stone.  A few minutes later the rim was scraped with a very sharp blade.

    I was surprised at how clean, relatively, the airway of the shank was.Some scraping with a dental scraper was done followed by an alcohol soaked shank brush and several bristle pipe cleaners and cotton swabs also dipped in the 99% ethyl alcohol.

    Below are two close-ups of the tooth chatter on the top and bottom sides of the bit.  Notice how it looks more like the nylon of a Medico pipe.  

    I was able to file the bite zone to eliminate most of the chatter on both the top and bottom surfaces.

    After the file, I moved to an emery board, like for filing fingernails.

    The emery board was also used to reestablish and redefine the button.

    There were still some minimal dents which were being difficult.  I thought, “maybe a flame painting”.  This is where the flame from a lighter is moved along the dented surface.  In my experience this is usually to minimal effect but it did seem to work.

    The stummel was then taken to the sink for a scrub with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel hand dried with a cotton hand towel.

    Back at the workbench I rubbed the stummel with a make-up pad wetted with 99% ethyl alcohol.  This produced some color on the pad as dye or stain was removed from the briar.

    I wanted this pipe to be lighter in color to show off the briar grain.  I first started a light sanding with a 320 grit sanding sponge.

    The sanding helped but not as much as I had hoped.  Hmm, plan-B:  An application of oxalic acid was the remedy that came to mind.   

    The crystals present at the bottom of the jar indicate the solution is fully saturated.  Oxalic acid is known to bleach stains in woods.  My hope was to lighten the color of the briar.  Previous attempts at this have met with varying degrees of success.

    I applied the first coating of oxalic acid to the stummel with a cotton swab.

    This was allowed to sit for 30 minutes while I finished watching an episode of Homeland (glad that it finally made it’s way to NetFlix).

    After 30 minutes I recoated the stummel with a second application of the oxalic acid solution.

    This one sat for another 20 minutes.  The photo below shows what it looked like dried.

    The stummel was returned to the sink for rinsing with copious amounts of water.  To make sure the oxalic acid was completely rinsed and neutralized I scrubbed the stummel with Castile soap and a nylon brush.  I figured that the basic nature of the soap would neutralize the remaining acid. 

    More rinsing and then some more rinsing, oxalic acid can continue the bleaching if not completely removed.  

    Once dried I wiped the stummel with 99% ethyl alcohol on a make-up pad again.  Far less color came off on the pad and the stummel did appear lighter, though not to the extent I was hoping for.

    The only fills that I thought necessary were two on the lower left of the stummel.

    The pits were filled with briar dust which was pressed into the pit.  The dust then received a small drop of thin cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue).  The CA was absorbed into the briar dust and bonded the dust to the stummel nearly instantly.

    The fill was then sanded smooth with a 400 grit sanding sponge.  

    The aluminum collar was covered with masking tape, then the stummel was sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 400-3500 grit.  Between sponges the stummel was wiped with an alcohol moistened make-up pad to remove sanding debris.  

    The stem was sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 400-3500 grit.  The masking tape remained on the collar for this sanding.  Between sponges the stem was rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a paper towel.  This wiping was to remove any sanding debris.  Once the sanding was finished the masking tape was removed and the stem oiled with Before and After Hard Rubber Balm.

    I thought that the entire pipe would look better with a buffing with white buffing compound.

    After cleaning the buffing compound residue from the pipe I was happy with the briar and the collar but not with the stem.  I worked the stem with a series of micro-mesh pads from 4000-12000 grit.  Between each pad I rubbed the stem with Obsidian oil and wiped it with a paper towel.  The stem looked better but not as well as I thought it could look.  

    I got out the Before and After Fine and Extra Fine polish and worked the stem, especially the bite zone with these and a soft cloth. 

    That did the trick, the stem looked good.  Next I returned to the buffer and applied several coats of carnauba wax with the buffer.

    The final step was to hand polish the pipe with a microfiber polishing cloth.

    This Kaywoodie Tuckaway turned out beautifully.  I was pleased with the way that the briar lightened with the oxalic acid and subsequent sanding. The briar needed no additional stain or dye and has a lovely warm brown appearance. The stem did turn-out nicely. I cannot say that I like working with whatever plastic it is made of but the end result is attractive. I do wish that this pipe had some official Kaywoodie stampings though. I know they would not affect the pipe’s performance and I am certain of this pipe’s provenance, still I do miss the stampings. The dimensions of this Kaywoodie are:  

    The dimensions of this Kaywoodie are:

    • Length: 5.54 in./ 140.72mm.
    • Weight:  1.03 oz./ 29.20 g.
    • Bowl Height: 1.74 in./ 44.20 mm.
    • Chamber Depth: 1.51 in./ 38.35 mm.
    • Chamber Diameter: 0.72 in./ 18.29 mm.
    • Outside Diameter: 1.32 in./ 33.53 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the finished Kaywoodie Tuckaway.

  • A Gus’ Own Lumberman Restoration

    November 23rd, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    The sheer number of pipe shapes and brands of tobacco pipes can be overwhelming.  This does allow users and collectors to specialize and find something that suits their own personal fancy.  All of these options can be daunting.  As an example I put together a list of my top 3 favorite pipe shapes.  This list had no fewer than 6 shapes.  Yeah, math and choosing were never my strong suit.  Then there are the pipe companies.  Many pipe aficionados dedicate their collection to a single maker.  I find that I can’t even do that. While organizing a pipe rack, my official Peterson shelf has several Marxman and one commissioned pipe in it.  Proving once again that I like what I like and care little for convention.  That brings us to the subject of today’s blog.  I am fascinated by the pipe oddities.  Whether they be the crazy innovations of inventors, promotional pipes or the Brick and Mortar (B&M) pipe shop stamped pipes made by renowned pipe manufacturers.  I have restored pipes Stamped with; TROPICAL PAINTS (A Tropical Paints Cleveland Pot Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek), DUPONT EXPOSIVES (A du Pont Explosives Promotional Pipe Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek),  BRIARS ‘N’ Blends (A Briars ‘N’ Blends (Comoy’s 409) ¼ Bent Bulldog Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek) and TELFORD’S (A Telford’s Canadian Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek).  Researching these pipes is a journey into our hobby’s past and to a time when pipe smoking was far more popular than today.  

    This Gus’ Own Lumberman is a perfect example of that history.  It was part of an estate lot which arrived here in August of 2024 from Hardin , Kentucky.  I’d heard of Gus’ Smoke Shop in Los Angeles but had personal ties to the locale.  The only stamping on the pipe was GUS’ OWN.  No county of Manufacture (COM), which can indicate that the pipe was made in the US, but this is not always the case.  Below are some photos I took of the pipe prior to working on it.

    Judging by the tooth chatter on the stem and the thick cake in the tobacco chamber, this was a well loved and frequently used pipe.  It also meant that it would require more time to clean it up.  The stem showed signs of oxidation  but the mortise to tenon joint was secure.  The finish was worn, a further proof of a well used pipe.  Overall it looked to be a fairly straightforward restoration.  Another thing I have noticed is that heavily used pipes are frequently excellent smokers.  Once they are cleaned up, I should add.

    Background

    I had heard mention of Gus’ Smoke Shop as one of the large pipe and tobacconist brick and mortar shops in Los Angeles, California.  The search for Gus’ turned up a hit on the forum, PipesMagazine.com.   The forum thread started with a member asking if anyone remembered the shop.  Below is a very interesting entry from a member named huntertrw dated July 16, 2023:

    “I correspond occasionally with Richard Carleton Hacker, and this is what he was kind enough to share today concerning Gus’:

    “Gus’s started out as Boyd’s Pipe Shop in 1927, back when Ventura Blvd. was still largely a dirt road and horses vied with automobiles. In addition to pipes and cigars, Boyd raised and sold chickens and candy and a few other sundry unrelated items.

    “Boyd sold the shop to Gus Pfender in 1937, who renamed it Gus’. Note the unusual apostrophe placement.

    “Sometime before 1975 Pfender sold the pipe shop to an Englishman named Norman Fudge. Fudge wisely kept the Gus’ name – otherwise folks might have mistaken it for a candy store!

    “I first began going to Gus’ in the late 70’s and remember seeing the original gas stove in the back room and the brass cash register that was sill in use. I also remember seeing the occasional chicken feather poking out from the floorboards, and Norm telling me how they got there. Although he had a reputation for being cantankerous, I got along with Norm, especially when he learned I wrote about pipes and had a collection of Sherlock Holmes memorabilia (which may have appealed to his British heritage).

    “I met Jimmy and Paula Hurwitz when they came to the store and Jimmy was deciding on whether or not to buy it, as Norm was getting on in years and frankly, was tired of dealing with the public.

    “Jimmy asked my opinion and I thought it was a good deal, especially since store ownership included the property on what now was now a main San Fernando Valley thoroughfare.

    “Jimmy bought the store in 1985 and I continued to be a regular customer and even put the photo I took of the store in at least one of my books.

    “I lived in the same area, as did a number of pipe smoking movie celebrities. with whom I became friends. William Conrad gave me one of his beloved Charatans (which I still have) and David Rose, the musician and I shared both pipe and train hobbies.

    “An interesting side-note: David had an unusual triangular pipe rack he had purchased in London. I tried to buy it but he wouldn’t sell. When he died in 1990 Jimmy bought it and resold it to me – at I’m sure more than David would have wanted for it. It still have it.

    “To his credit, Jimmy kept the old stove in the back room, remodeled the store to include a walk-in cigar humidor, and still occasionally cranked up the old brass cash register, although a newer electronic gadget saw much more use.

    “Gus’ was the quintessential neighborhood pipe shop and might have still been there today if Jimmy hadn’t run afoul of some sort of California law and subsequently was imprisoned for a short while and, of course, lost the store.

    “When he got out of stir he tried selling pipes out of the back of the corner liquor store, but of course, it wasn’t the same. That venture only lasted a short while and he sold socks at Nordstrom’s but eventually died of cancer some time back.

    “Gus’ was next door to the Mistral’s restaurant and sat vacant for many years (it was always sad to walk by its shuttered facade) until Mistral’s purchase it, used it for the occasional private party, and now plans to open it as an extension of the main restaurant. But those plans were put on hold due to the pandemic.

    “And now you know ‘the rest of the story.’”

    Thank-you, Mr. Hacker!” (Gus’s Smoke Shop :: Pipe Tobacconists – B&M’s and Internet Retailers :: Pipe Smokers Forums of PipesMagazine.com).  Thank you Mr. Hacker, indeed.  In that same forum thread there was another mention of an LA Times news piece.  I found an archived copy of that article and included it below. 

    Pipe Dreams

    By JAMES RICCI

    Dec. 27, 1997 12 AM PT

    TIMES STAFF WRITER

    SHERMAN OAKS — Here at Jim Hurwitz’s shop, as at hundreds of others like it, the redemption of the American male quite possibly is underway.

    Before joining in the praising, however, you’ll have to put health considerations aside for a time, for Hurwitz’s place is a tobacco shop.

    In the last year or two, sales of pipes and pipe tobaccos at his Gus’ Smoke Shop on Ventura Boulevard have begun ticking upward. Tobacconists in other parts of the country also report the trend, for the first time this generation.

    This can mean only good things for the XY-chromosome contingent, not to mention those of the XX variety who must truck with them.

    Unlike the case with cigarettes and cigars, no one keeps national aggregate figures on pipe sales, but “pipe sales have been increasing,” affirms Bill Fader, the Baltimore-based executive director of the Retail Tobacco Dealers of America, “especially in the case of the better, more expensive pipes, the ones that go for $100, $150, $300 and up, because they’re almost works of art.”

    Along with the years-old cigar mania, this is more good news for Gus’ Smoke Shop, which has weathered many another trend, both up and down, in its seven decades.

    Gus’, Hurwitz claims, was the first business to open on Ventura Boulevard and is the oldest tobacconist in Los Angeles. Founded in 1927 as Boyd’s, a store that sold candy and live chickens as well as tobacco, the business occupies its original premises.

    The eponymous Gus Fender bought the store in the 1940s and sold it a couple of decades later to Norm Fudge. Hurwitz, a dedicated customer, bought it from Fudge in 1985. “I always thought Norm Fudge was Gus,” says Hurwitz, a heavyset man of 46 given to baggy jeans and untucked jerseys. “I guess whoever is behind the counter is Gus–and now I am Gus.”

    Gus’ contains two walk-in humidors for cigars and specialty cigarettes, but the dense, moist aromas of more than 30 hand-blended pipe tobaccos in large, glass jars dominate the wood-paneled store. Sweet Virginia, spicy perique, sultry Latakia–these and other leaves vie for a visitor’s olfactories. Many of the mixtures are assembled according to recipes handed down from Gus to Gus to Gus.

    More than 600 pipes are arrayed on various shelves and in a glass display case. These range in price from $30 to $3,500, the latter for a massive 1960s-vintage, gold-trimmed example from famed manufacturer GBD. Many of the great names in pipes are represented–Peterson of Ireland, Stokkebye of Denmark, GBD and Ashton of England, Savinelli and Ser Jacopo of Italy.

    Although some meerschaums–cool-smoking, delicate pipes of white clay–are displayed, the majority are of briar, which comes from the roots of heath trees that grow in Mediterranean locales. Mediterranean briar, properly cured and dried, is prized for its hardness and the eye appeal of its grain.

    Increasingly, people buy pipes simply as objects of beauty, Hurwitz says. Some buyers don’t even smoke. The thriving business Gus’ does repairing and reconditioning vintage pipes further indicates the new collectible cachet of pipes.

    The increase in pipe sales, however, is not just another manifestation of affluent American thing-gathering. A small but significant percentage of those caught up in the cigar mania, which brought on inflated prices and supply shortages, have begun to smoke pipes, Hurwitz reports. Virtually all pipe smokers are male.

    Wherein lies the potential for redemption.

    “Cigarette smoking is an addictive, nervous smoking, and cigar smoking has the connotation of aggressive display and success,” Hurwitz offers. “Pipe smoking is more philosophical, i.e., associated with the professor type, much more laid-back. With even a very good, expensive cigar, you light it, burn it and it’s gone. But a pipe you can use for years. Pipe smoking is about the art of smoking. Everything else is about consumption.”

    Hurwitz and his salesmen give new pipe smokers a short course in the fine points of the art: How to choose a style of pipe. How to load and light it. How to keep it from going out. How to break in a pipe and how to care for it.

    Clearly, when a man commits to a pipe, he is committing to an altered form of being that values deliberateness, skill, patience and sitting more or less still for a while (it being hard to do much of anything else, especially anything exertive, when smoking a pipe).

    Pipe smoking also is a turning away from massed-produced sameness. It feeds a man’s appetite for his own individuality, since the types and characteristics of pipes and of the tobaccos that can be stuffed in them are practically innumerable.

    “If you take the band off a cigar, you many times don’t know what brand you’re smoking,” says Fader of the tobacco retailers. “A corona cigar is a corona cigar. A robusto is a robusto. Not so with pipes. They’re dramatically varied in appearance and style.”

    In short, these new pipe smokers, like pond frogs who sense change in the environment before other species, may be the first to tune into an emerging male zeitgeist.

    Maybe the American male who’s held psychological sway over society the last decade and a half–the compulsive, hard-driving, fire-breathing guy on the make–is about to retire from sheer exhaustion.

    His successor looks like he might turn out to be a more reflective chap. A guy who won’t be quite so hard on the tire treads. One who doesn’t even have to inhale to appreciate existence.” (Pipe Dreams – Los Angeles Times)

    Well that was all good information but who made this pipe for Gus’?  Fine question, that.  Unfortunately I had very little to go on.  I initially thought it looked like a Stanwell pipe.  You know, that whole, “looks like a duck” train of thought.  I asked my best source for Stanwell questions, Sascha Mertens, if he thought it might be a Stanwell.  His reply was, “I don’t think it’s a Stanwell because of the stem. This is quite an unusual bite.” (personal communication).  Strike one.

    I knew I had seen a stem very similar to that recently.  I looked back through this year’s restorations and there it was – the Marseille Volcano (A Marseille Oval Shank Volcano Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek).  Below is a photo I took while working on the stem.

    Very similar, eh?

    Well the Marseille Volcano was another near bust for background information.  All I can speculate about this pipe is that the stem looks similar to French-made pipes.  As for the year of production, that too is all speculation.  Based on the styling, I would say 1970s.

    The Restoration 

    After the “before” photos our patient made its way to the workbench and a somewhat clean denim piece.

    I started with the reaming.  PipNet with #2 and #3 blades, the General triangular scraper and the Smokingpipes Low Country reamer.

    Yeah there was quite a thick cake with this pipe.

    Even the clean-up produced a pile.

    The tobacco chamber was sanded with 220 sandpaper with a finger and 320 wrapped around a wood dowel.

    The bare briar sanded chamber showed no signs of any heat damage.  Apparently that layer of cake did its job protecting the briar.

    I was dreading this next part and was very surprised when the shank was pretty clean.  Normally a pipe with that much cake would have a filthy airway, this one was not too bad.  I used the Cleen-Reem shank drill and it passed easily.  A shank brush dipped in 99% ethyl alcohol also returned only slight stains on the paper towels.

    Further cleaning with bristle pip cleaners also did not indicate a terrible airway.  I was very glad to know the previous owner kept a relatively clean pipe.

    I couldn’t accept the cleanliness of the shank and thought it certainly must have been a fluke.  I therefore decided to give the pipe a cotton-alcohol soak.  The tobacco chamber and shank were stuffed with cotton and I prepared 10 ml of 99% ethyl.

    The alcohol was pipetted into the shank and bowl with a disposable pipette until the cotton was saturated.  This would sit for several hours as the alcohol evaporated.

    I turned my attention to the stem.  More dirty than the shank but not terrible.  Bristle pipe cleaners with more alcohol did the trick.  Some of the tooth chatter was removed by filing the area with a small flat file.

    There was one large toothmark that defiled removal with a file.  

    The stem went onto the Briarville Pipe Stem Oxidation Remover (deox).

    The next day I removed the cotton from the bowl and shank.  The shank cotton was far more discolored than that of the bowl.  

    The shank was cleaned again with bristle pipe cleaners and alcohol to remove any tar that remained.

    The rim showed some lava or accumulated smoking residue in the rustication.  

    I took the stummel to the sink for a scrub with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.

    I then worked the rim with a brass brush to get rid of the stubborn lava on the rim.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    Back at the workbench the stummel was wiped with a make-up pad dipped in 99% ethyl alcohol.  Some of the black dye came off.  This was expected.

    The newly cleaned rim showed no signs of charring.  Yay!

    The side panels had beautiful grain but the rusticated area was rather worn.  I thought about leaving the pipe in this condition then though, “no, you should restore it to how it looked, factory fresh”.

    I sanded the side panels with 400-1000 grit sanding pads.

    Using black Fiebing’s Leather Dye and a paintbrush, I carefully reapplied the black dye to the black portions of the stummel.

    This was a slow and careful process.

    The remaining areas were re-dyed with a folded pipe cleaner and the black dye.

    As the dye was drying I went to retrieve the stem for deox.  The last two stems I have used the Briarville deox on have emerged with a tan crust.  I am now wondering if I need to replace this solution.  It has been used on many stems since last April, when the kind folks at Briarville sent it to me to try.  I vigorously rubbed the stem with a coarse shop rag to remove the crust and any softened vulcanite.  

    I took the stem to the workbench and started scrubbing it with Soft Scrub cleanser on make-up pads.  This produced pads well covered with oxidized vulcanite and the stem started to look better.

    The stem was sanded with 400-1000 grit sanding sponges.  You can see the two dents on the top side of the stem in the photo below.

    And the one large dent on the button side of the stem.

    All of these dents had very smooth edges.  These smooth edges led me to fear that normal fills with cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) would risk the fills chipping and coming loose.  To remedy this, I thought that deepening the dent with a 2 mm drill bit would provide far better surface area for the CA to adhere to.

    I drilled a series of holes into the dented surface of the stem.

    I used a “Rubber Toughened” black CA for the fill.  The CA was applied using the tip of a fly tying bodkin.  I also applied a line of the CA to the edge of the button.

    The same was done for the top side of the stem.

    The CA was allowed to dry or set on its own for an hour.  The below two photos who the resulting cured CA.

    The CA was then filed smooth with a small flat file the the stem was worked with a series of sanding sponged from 400-3500 grit.  Between each sponge I rubbed the stem with mineral oil and wiped it with a paper towel.  After the final sponge I applied a coat of Obsidian Oil to the stem.

    The stem was then taken to the buffer where I buffed it with white compound on a dedicated white compound wheel.

    The masking tape was removed and I cleaned the pipe of any buffing compound.  I returned to the buffer to apply several coats of carnauba wax to the pipe.

    The final step was a hand buffing of the pipe with a microfiber polishing cloth.

    I would love for this pipe to go to someone who has fond memories of Gus’ Smoke Shop.  It is a lovely old pipe and it should provide years of service.  The black dye turned out very nicely and is a lovely contrast to the smooth side panels.  The grain present on the sides is also very pretty.  The stem turned out well but I do admit that some browning of oxidation can still be seen in very bright light.  In normal room light it remains undetectable.  The stem fills are nearly unnoticeable without a very close examination.

    The dimensions of this Gus’ Own Lumberman are:

    Length:  5.74 in./ 145.80 mm.

    Weight:  1.54 oz./ 43.66 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.79 in./  45.47 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.61 in./ 40.89 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.80 in./ 20.32 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.54 in./ 39.12 mm.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the finished Gus’ Own Lumberman.

  • A Made in London, England No Name Panel Billiard Restoration

    November 11th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    For some reason the Warren Zevon Werewolves of London was playing in my mind while I was restoring this pipe.  In the mental soundtrack the line “He’s the heavy handed gent, ran amok in Kent” was substituted for “He’s the hairy handed gent gent, ran amok in Kent” (Warren Zevon – Werewolves of London Lyrics | Genius Lyrics).  This pipe is large and would indeed fit well in the heavy hands of a gent from Kent.   I have an affinity for panel pipes of various shapes.  I do not recall how this one came into my possession but it was undoubtedly part of an estate lot.  The pipe has no maker’s mark nor name, only the stampings MADEINLONDON over ENGLAND on the right shank.  Below are some photos of the pipe prior to work.

    The pipe was solidly built with good drillings.  The fit of the stem to the shank was pretty good but only well fit in a single position.  The stem was quite oxidized, calcium deposits around the bite zone and several deep tooth dents both top and bottom.  The stummel was dirty with old grime.  There were also moderate lava deposits on the rim and several old fills with their less than appealing pink spots.  Overall a fairly straightforward restoration of a well used pipe.

    Background

    In researching the possible history of this pipe, I was limited to only the country of manufacture (COM) stamp.  This led me to pipephil.eu for makers who used MADE IN LONDON over ENGLAND.  The best I hoped for would be to find a stamp which matched.  My first thought was a maker like Comoy, a large factory with numerous seconds brands.  Most of Comoy’s lines of seconds used MADE IN LONDON in a circle with the ENGLAND offset.  The below photo is a good example of this:

    (Comoy — Pipes : Logos & Markings)

    There were some examples of Comoy seconds which did use the MADE IN LONDON over ENGLAND.

    (Gr-Gt — Pipes: Logos & Markings).  In the Comoy’s examples the stamped words are clearly separated with a space.  The No Name Billiard does not have these spaces.  It is a single stamped word, “MAEDINLONDON”, without spaces.

    The next contestant on, “Who Made That Pipe?” is a Conway.  The 

    (Co-Con — Pipes : Logos & Markings)

    (Mas — Pipes: Logos & Markings).  Mason House is a maker which I could not find any information about.  The only thing that did turn up was another Mason House pipe listed as sold on WorthPoint.  I captured the stampings from that pipe.

    (Mason House Comfort 810 Briar estate smoking tobacco pipe freehand restored | #4592714867).  In zooming in and comparing the stamps from the two pipes, The WorthPoint Mason House on the left and the No Name Billiard on the right,

    I was unable to make little conclusion other than the stamps were similar in their lack of spacing between the words and the ENGLAND did line up pretty much the same.  Maybe I don’t have a discerning enough eye, but I other than those two things I couldn’t tell if they were the same stamp.

    The final contestant was Parker.  This one I discounted immediately due to spacing between the words and additional information in the form of a date suffix.

    (Parker — Pipes : Logos & Markings).

    My conclusion is that the No Name Panel Billiard share a similar stamp to that of Mason House.  This could indicate a possible origin or merely show that both makers used the same lazy stamp maker.  As for the age of this pipe, that too is only a guess.  I would say that a large block of briar like this would have to be from post World War Two.  The Briar is not as soft as the Algerian briar pieces I have worked with so another assumption is that it is likely from the south of France or Italy. 

    The Restoration

    The pipe found its way to the workbench and a cleaned piece of denim.

    I began work with the stem.  It was cleaned with bristle pipe cleaners and 99% ethyl alcohol.  I was surprised that it did not take much to clean the stem.

    The bite zone was filed with a small flat file to reestablish the button and eliminate most of the tooth denting.

    Both the top and bottom of the stem were flame painted with a lighter in hopes of lifting some of the dents by causing the vulcanite to expand and contract with heat.  This may have helped a little bit.

    The stem was then placed into a bath of Briarville Pipe Stem Oxidation Remover (deox) for just shy of 4 hours (based on the time stamps from the photos).  A pipe cleaner was inserted into the stem to act as a handle for easy removal from the deox.

    While the deox solution did the magic that it does, I turned to reaming the tobacco chamber.  The ream team was assembled and included the PipNet with the big blades, #3 and #4, along with the Smokingpipes Low Country reamer and the General triangular scraper.

    The #3 and #4 blades of the PipNet did the majority of the work.

    The tobacco chamber was sanded with 180 and 320 grit sandpaper via my finger.  I do like the larger diameter chambers for this task.

    Below is the sanded chamber showing no signs of any heat damage to the bowl.

    The rim remained lava encrusted.  I was hoping not to find any charring under the lava.

    The lava was moistened with saliva and allowed to soften for a few minutes.

    Scraping was done with a sharp pocket knife. Yay, the rim was free of charring except around the inner rim edge.  Good job, previous owner.

    Next came the shank cleaning.  Bristle pipe cleaners dipped in 99% ethyl alcohol were used for the initial passes through the airway.  Once the smoking residues had softened I was able to scrape the airway with a dental scraper.  Every little bit of tar and yuck scraped is worth several pipe cleaners.  I also used the shank drill from the KleenReem reaming tool to drill its way through the stem.  This further removed some of the yuck.  Eventually the airway returned unstained pipe cleaners.

    The stummel was then taken to the sink for a scrub with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  If you are playing along at home, feel free to use an old toothbrush.  This stummel was pretty filthy with years of accumulated grime, testifying to a well loved and used pipe.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    Back at the workbench the stummel was wiped with 995 ethyl alcohol on a make-up pad.  This produced little color indicating that I had pretty much clean briar.

    Those nasty pink fills stood out even more with the cleaned briar.

    My idea was to pick the old fills out with the use of my trusty fly tying bodkin.  This proved to be far more difficult than I planned.  The fills were very hard and resisted my bodkin picking.  Ethyl alcohol did not seem to soften the fills, so I tried dabbing the fills with acetone on a cotton swab.  This did work though it took numerous applications and about 10 minutes.  The acetone evaporated quickly and allowed the fills to reharden.  I had to constantly dab to keep them moist while watching TV.  I don’t think the TV was necessary  for the process. 

    Eventually the fills released their grip and were removed revealing rather deep pits.

    These pits were filled with briar dust pressed into the pit then a small drop of This cyanoacrylate (CA, superglue) was dabbed onto the briar dust.  The CA soaked into the dust and bonds to the briar.  This sets up nearly instantaneously.  The rough surface was then filed smooth with a small flat file and additional briar dust was pressed into the remaining pit, with another dab of CA.  I find that small layers work better than trying to fill large pits all at once. 

    The stummel was then sanded with both 320 and 400 grit sanding sponges.  I wiped the surface of the stummel with a make-up pad wetted with alcohol between sponges to remove sanding debris.

    I thought that this pipe would look better with a contrast dye.  My reasoning was that it would both bring out the briar’s grain and help conceal the new fills.  Black Fiebing’s Leather Dye was used for the base coat.  The tobacco chamber was plugged with a wine bottle cork and the dye applied with a folded pipe cleaner.  I only used a single coat and did not flame off the alcohol solvent as it evaporated quickly with this large stummel.

    I avoided the rim with the black dye.  The stummel was allowed to dry for a few minutes then wiped with a dry paper towel. 

    Once dry, the stummel was buffed with rouge buffing compound to remove the black from the surface of the pipe.  The dye penetrates the soft grained briar deeper than the hard grained wood.

    Back at the workbench you can see the grain of the briar was accentuated with the black dye.  I sanded the stummel lightly with the 400 grit sanding sponge and wiped the stummel with a make-up pad dipped in alcohol to remove a bit more of the black.

    The stummel was then given a coating of Light Brown Fiebing’s Leather Dye.  This was applied in similar fashion to the black except I did not avoid the rim.

    After the Light Brown dye had dried for about 30 minutes I wiped it with an alcohol wetted make-up pad.  Below are a couple of photos of the resulting dyes.

    The stem was removed from deox and I was not pleased to see that it had a light-colored coating over the surface.  I used a coarse shop rag to hand buff the stem.  Some of the light coating came off onto the rag.

    I hoped that Soft Scrub cleaner on make-up pads would remove the light film and oxidized vulcanite.

    It did, but it took many more cleanser wetted pads, more than shown below.

    I hadn’t seen a light film like that before so I was curious to see how the stem would look buffed.  I used the rouge compound and the rouge wheel.  I looked OK after buffing so I continued as I would normally.

    I wanted to fill the remaining tooth dents.  I first roughed up the freshly buffed surface with a 320 grit sanding sponge to allow the black CA more surface area to bond to.  I then applied small dabs of black CA to the dents.  These dabs were spritzed with a CA drying accelerator.  The photos below show the top and bottom surfaces.

    Both surfaces were filed with a small flat file then sanded with 320 and 400 grit sanding sponges.

    WIth the shank still masked I sanded the entire stem with a series of sanding sponges from 320-3500 grit.  Between sponges I rubbed the stem with mineral oil and wiped it with a dry paper towel.

    I returned to the buffer, this time using white buffing compound and the dedicated white wheel.

    The stem looked much better.

    I failed to photo-document the stummel sanding, so you will have to trust me.  It was sanded with the same sanding sponges from 320-3500.  I did wipe the stummel with a make-up pad wetted with alcohol between sanding sponges to remove debris.  The stummel was coated with Before and After Restoration Balm and allowed to sit for 30 minutes.  During this time I returned to watching TV.  Again, I do not think the TV was necessary.

    The stummel was then hand buffed with an inside out athletic sock to remove excess Restoration Balm.

    The pipe was taken back to the buffer for several coats of carnauba wax.

    The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth then finished photo shoot.

    This Made in London, England No Name Panel Billiard has been restored to a condition likely better than it’s factory original.  The new contrast dye accentuates the briar grain and adds a warmth lacking in the original.  The replaced fills blend with the new contrast dye and are so much better than the pink plague of the original.  The stem is far better than it was but try as I did, I could not get the vulcanite to return to the black.  The dark brown is really only noticeable under very bright lights or sunlight.  The finish of the stem did turn out well with the previous tooth dents only noticeable under close scrutiny.  This pipe is a large billiard and it has a hand feel that only a large pipe has.  For those who love large billiards this pipe calls out to you.  The dimensions of the No Name Panel Billiard are:

    Length:  6.02 in./ 152.91 mm.

    Weight:  2.22 oz./ 62.94 g.

    Bowl Height: 2.11 in./  53.59 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.88 in./ 47.75 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.89 in./ 22.61 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.55 in./ 39.37 mm. 

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.  If you are interested in purchasing this pipe or any other from previous blogs please feel free to contact me at scimansays1787@gmail.com.

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    Below are some photos of the finished Made in London, England No Name Panel Billiard.

  • A House of Westminster Burl Restoration

    November 5th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    I don’t know if freehand is the correct term for this pipe.  I’m not even sure if burl is, either.  All I know is that I came across one several years ago just as a stummel and decided that the weird little thing needed me as an owner.  I restemmed it and we have been getting along quite well.

     I have seen one other pipe similar to this and it was stamped “Wally Frank”.  Of course, I didn’t collect a photo of that example.  The subject of this blog was seen on eBay back in August of 2025 and was quickly purchased.  The fact that it was from Sioux City, Iowa, a mere 125 miles from my home was interesting, support local businesses, eh?  The similarities between the two pipes was stunning.  Both were formed from what appeared to be small briar burls.  Having seen photos of briar burls which are large enough to be cut into numerous blocks for pipe making is the norm.  I wondered if these small burls were not small individual plants which were  dug up while the digger was excavating a larger “target” burl.  Both of the burl pipes had the same general shape with the shank forming the trunk of the shrub and a “V” shaped cut to remove, what I thought was, the more spindly root. The only stamping on the newly acquired pipe was HOUSE OF WESTMINSTER in a single line on a panel of the shank.  Below are some photos of the burl pipe prior to work.

    The first thing I noticed was the thick clear coating applied to the pipe.  It looked as though it had been sprayed or dipped several times into a finish.  The briar was also heavily stained masking any of the wood’s natural color.  There was a crack on the cut V at the front of the pipe.  The stampings were crisp and well defined leading me to think the stamp was pressed prior to the application of the finish.  The stem was oxidized with some slight tooth chatter near the button.  Overall it looked to be a simple restoration.

    Background

    As I discussed earlier this appeared to be an entire, very small briar root.  Perhaps something dug-up with a larger burl.  Not wanting to waste a little bit of briar, I could imagine the diggers throwing it in with the larger burl and sending it off to the cutters for sale.  Of course this is all just conjecture but it was a fun pursuit.  Speaking of “fun”, not knowing what to call this pipe allowed me to reach out to Steve Laug (rebornpipes.com) and ask what he thought the shape might be called.  His reply was amazing, “never seen anything like it…that is wild.” (Laug, Steve.  Personal message).  I have never stumped Steve before.  With that in mind, I said that I’d call it a “Burl”.  He replied, “I think that is good”, and so it was.

    Normally a briar burl is a large mass below ground, photo below.

     (Briar root on display in Chacom museum, Saint-Claude, France. : r/PipeTobacco).  These are then cut into the blocks used by pipe carvers.I was able to find another example of a Burl pipe online:

    (Sybarite pipe).  That makes four that I recall seeing either in the flesh or online.  I am sure there are more but being lazy has its limitations.

    I next did a search of the “House of Westminster” for pipe related sites/information.  Nothing was found on the traditionally useful sites pipedia.org and pipephil.eu.   I did get a hit from WorthPoint.com of an old auction listing:

    “Gorgeous 1940s House of Westminster Ltd Real Briar Paneled Prince Tobacco pipe Made in France House of Westminster Ltd. Was a Tobacco company that sold Tobacco and tobacco Pipes from their Store in New York NY.The Use of “Real Briar” was a commonly used Nomenclature during WWII when Briar was Hard to come by and nearly impossible to import, and less desirable alternatives were often used, so to reassure the buyer that thier pipe was indeed The real deal, makers would often stamp “Real Briar”” (1940s House of Westminster Ltd. Paneled Prince Real Briar tobacco Pipe France | #4810546746).  This pipe looked nothing like the burl in hand, though.  The information included was quite vague and contained little detail.

    I then came across a discussion of the House of Westminster on the Brothers of Briar forum.  Below is the original post requesting any information on the House of Westminster and a forum member reply.

    (Pipe brand: House of Westminster | Brothers of Briar – Pipe Tobacco Forum).  L&H Stern was a name I’d heard of and had some experience with.  With this lead, I returned to pipedia.org.  According to that site:

    “Ludwig Stern, a successful pipe manufacturer since 1893 and closing around 1960, reorganized his company along with his brother Hugo Stern, opening a factory in 1911. They named the company L&H Stern Smoking Pipes & Holders. The newly formed company was moved into a six story building on the corner of Pearl and Waters street Brooklyn, NY.” (LHS – Pipedia)

    Continuing with that lead, I searched through all of the photos on the pipedia.org LHS page.  I did not find any mentions of House of Westminster nor any photos of a burl pipe, but I did find an exact match of the stinger.  This was not some ordinary aluminum tube, it was very unique.  Below is the photo from pipedia.org:

    (LHS – Pipedia)

    And here is a photo of the stinger from the House of Westminster burl pipe, I tried to match the color and positioning of the burl stem to the previous photo:

    For me, that settled who the maker was.  House of Westminster was a L&H Stern product likely produced after the second world war and before the company closed down in 1960.

    The Restoration

    After the before photo shoot I took the Burl to the workbench where I placed it on a cleaned denim piece.

    I was able to pull the stinger from the stem without much difficulty.  I placed it in a medicine cup with 10 ml of 99% ethyl alcohol.

    The stem was cleaned with ethyl alcohol and bristle pipe cleaners.  The airway on the button end seemed rough and a bit constricted.  I opened the airway with a Vermont Freehand Slot Tool (Slot Tool (with handle) – Vermont Freehand) and emery boards cut at an angle.

    The bite zone above the button was filed with a small flat file to remove the tooth dents and chatter.

    Sanding the stem lightly with a 400 grit sanding sponge was then done to prepare the stem for a bath in Briarviles’ Pip Stem Oxidation Remover (deox, as I like to call it).

    A pipe cleaner was inserted into the stem to act as a handle for easy removal after the 2 hour deox bath.

    With the stem soaking, I turned my attention to the reaming of the stummel.  The ream team was gathered; PipNet with the #2 and #3 blades, General triangular scraper and the Smokingpipes Low Country reamer.

    The PipNet and #3 blades did the majority of the cake removal.  

    The reamed tobacco chamber looked much better.

    The chamber was then sanded with 320 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel.  The sanded chamber showed no signs of heat damage.

    I then cleaned the airway of the shank.  This was done by softening the accumulated smoking residue with ethyl alcohol on cotton swabs as I cleaned the mortise.  The softened yuck was then scraped using a dental scraper.  Alcohol dipped bristle pipe cleaners and alcohol dipped cotton swabs were also used.

    The stummel was then taken to the sink for a scrub with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    Back at the workbench, I wiped the stummel’s stamp panel with 99% ethyl alcohol on a make-up pad.  This removed a lot of the shellac and some of the stain/dye.  You can see in the photo below that the shellac had filled in the scratched on the panel.  This layer of finish was quite thick.

    I wanted to get rid of the old finish to see the briar detail more clearly and maybe some of the color of the wood.  Shellac is soluble in ethyl alcohol (EtOH, an old organic chemistry abbreviation), so I gave the stummel an hour long bath in a jar of EtOH.

    This allowed me some time to clean and polish the stinger.  It was removed from the 10 ml of EtOH and scrubbed with a bristle pipe cleaner.  I used another pipe stem to hold the stinger while I work.

    The stinger was then buffed with white buffing compound on the white compound wheel.

    After cleaning off any remaining buffing compound the stinger looked great.

    After the hour-long soak in EtOH I scrubbed the stummel again but this time using the EtOH rather than Murphy’s.  You can see from the photo below that there was a great deal of dye and shellac liberated from the stummel.

    Again, back at the workbench the burl was looking less finish coated but it still had spots of shiny shellac in the low spots and a whole lot of purple.

    With the airway residues further softened, I cleaned this out again with cotton swabs and EtOH.

    I tried wiping the stamp panel again, as a test, with acetone on a make-up pad.  I was amazed at how much color came off.

    I decided to give the stummel a 30 minute bath in acetone.

    After 30 minutes I removed the stummel.

    The stummel was then taken to the sink where I scrubbed it with a nylon brush and additional acetone.

    I used Castile soap and the nylon brush to scrub away acetone from the surface of the pipe.  This was rinsed with water.  I then placed the stummel outside in the sun to allow the acetone to evaporate from the briar.  The stummel was left in the sun for over an hour.

    I retrieved the stem from deox and vigorously rubbed it with a coarse shop rag.  This removes some of the oxidized vulcanite softened by the deox solution.

    The stem looked much better with minimal pitting.

    Soft Scrub cleanser was used on make-up pads to scrub the stem.

    The first pad removed a good deal of oxidized vulcanite.

    The second make-up pad removed significantly less material.

    Since the stummel was drying in the sun, I used a wood block with holes drilled for different diameters to hold the stem while I sanded it.  I like to either have the stem connected to the stummel of a block like this to keep from rounding off the joint where the stem meets the shank.

    After sanding with a 320 and a 400 grit sponge the stem was rubbed with mineral oil.

    I checked back with the stummel after an hour.  It still had a slight acetone smell so I knew it was not thoroughly dry.  I did take a few photos of the stummel in the sun to show how much finish had been removed.  Sorry, these shots were taken on the side-wall of my truck, not the best backdrop.

    I was glad to see that I could tell this was wood and not some weird plastic or space-age-epoxy-resin.  Still I wanted to lighten the briar further.  I thought about my successful (and some unsuccessful) uses of oxalic acid to bleach stained wood.  I thought that it might work here.

    The saturated oxalic acid solution was applied with a cotton swab.  This was allowed to sit for 30 minutes.  After the 30 minutes I again scrubbed the stummel with warm water then an additional scrub with Castile Soap and a final rinse with warm water.

    I returned to the workbench and wiped the stummel with 99% EtOH on a make-up pad.  The pad in the photo below is after the entire stummel was wiped.  There was still a lot of dye coming off.  I declared defeat, the remaining dye would remain.  The oxalic acid treatment seemed to do little.  I had been defeated by the purple plague.

    All of these baths had made the slight crack in the front of the pipe to expand.  I used a fly tying bodkin to pick the old fill from the crack.

    The crack could not be compressed and it appeared to be superficial and not structural.  I decided to just refill it using briar dust and cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue).  I pressed briar dust into the crack and tamped it with the bodkin.

    Thin Ca was applied with a very narrow plastic tip.

    The Thin CA soaked into the briar dust and bonded it to the existing briar.  I repeated the filling of the crack with a second coating of briar dust and another drop of Thin CA.  The excess new-fill was filed with a small flat file and sanded with a 400 grit sanding sponge.

    Below is the fill as seen from head-on.

    And from the side with poor focus.

    It was time to sand the stem and the shank-end.  The area that I did not want sanded was taped with masking tape.

    A series of sanding sponges were used in grits 320-3500.  Between each sponge the stem was rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a paper towel.

    After the 3500 sponge the stem was taken to the buffer and the shank-end and stem were buffed with rouge buffing compound followed by a buffing with white buffing compound.  I returned to the workbench and wiped the remaining buffing compound from the pipe.  The stummel was then coated with Before and After Restoration Balm applied with a baby toothbrush.  This was allowed to sit for 30 minutes.

    The stummel was hand buffed with an inside out athletic sock to remove the remaining balm.

    The pipe was then returned to the buffer where several coats of carnauba wax were applied.  Care was taken to work the carnauba into and out of the rough texture of the briar.  The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth then off to the photo table.

    This House of Westminster burl turned out well. I do wish it had a more natural color rather than purplish brown, but at least the clear coat is gone.The texture of the pipe is amazing to hold.  It is like a natural rustication and has a wonderful hand feel.  The smooth organic texture gives way to the polished stem, which turned out very nicely. Overall this pipe is a unique piece which will undoubtedly provide years of enjoyment to the next owner.   The dimensions of the House of Westminster Burl are:

    Length:  6.72 in./ 170.69 mm.

    Weight:  2.40 oz./ 68.04 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.51 in./  38.35 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.28 in./ 32.51 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.80 in./ 20.32 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.90 in./ 48.26 mm. 

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.  If you are interested in purchasing this pipe or any other from previous blogs please feel free to contact me at scimansays1787@gmail.com.

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    Below are some photos of the finished House of Westminster Burl.

  • A Mountbatten Billiard Restoration

    October 28th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    You may have noticed that I have begun to only post one restoration blog per week.  I am sure that you are thinking that the writing quality will certainly improve with more time spent on each individual post.  Or, that I will make fewer mistakes because I have more time for perfection.  Yeah right, like either of those are going to happen.  Anyway, we are gathered together today for a pipe restoration, so here it is:  A Mountbatten that came in with an estate lot back on February 6th, 2025.  The pipe was stamped MOUNTBATTEN over MADE IN ENGLAND.  There was another stamp but I didn’t notice it until after I’d started the restoration.  See, I’ve already proven that I continue to make mistakes.  Here are some photos of the pipe before work was started.

    The pipe had obviously been smoked as evidenced by the lava deposits on the rim and the cake built up in the tobacco chamber.  The stem was oxidized with some tooth chatter, more dents actually.  The finish looked rather drab, which seemed strange because the sandblast texture was very nice with numerous bird’s eyes on both sides and straight grain on the front and back.  I thought that some contrast dye would improve the look dramatically.  Overall, this appeared to be a rather straightforward restoration.

    Background

    For some reason I always associated Mountbatten with Blatter of Montreal.  Perhaps it is due to my lysdexic (or is that dyslexic?) brain wanting to see a pattern with pipe names and “tt”.  This was the first Mountbatten that I recall working on.  The pipe was well crafted with the fit of the stem to the shank excellent.  I started with a search on pipedia.org for “Mountbatten”.  Here I found the following:

    “Mountbatten is often referred to as a Charatan second, but apparently the Mountbatten pipes were made by Charatan apprentices. So while they are not Charatans, they are perhaps on their way to becoming Charatans. A second would tend to be a pipe with a deficiency (in material or workmanship), a Mountbatten would perhaps be closer to a Charatan in quality.

    The following is originally from a pipes.org forum post by Bill Ramsey.

    “Friends, after 40 years of nosing around pipes, what I have gleaned is this: Charatan sold its seconds under private labels and later acquired the English rights for Ben Wade for just this purpose. Mountbatten, on the other hand was not a “second”(in that there was some physical deformity in the pipe) but rather a first line production from Charatan’s apprentice program. Each Charatan carver might have four or six apprentices at any one time of various skill levels. As they improved and started cutting pipes themselves, these pipes had to move… thus the Mountbatten. These were made on Charatan tooling with Charatan materials and teaching. Bear in mind that there was a high attrition rate and , perhaps, one apprentice in nine or ten made it to cutting their own bowls much less a Charatan carver. This is why you see more Charatans than Mountbattens on the market. You’re never going to put your kid through college by selling one but you’ve got a day to day workhorse of the first order. Good luck and happy puffing.”

    Pretty interesting! This is information comes to us from an interesting post on rebornpipes.com about restoring the pips bellow” (Mountbatten – Pipedia).

    So, I apparently had a pipe made by an apprentice that had mastered the fitting of stems to a shank and had advanced to blasting, which they were quite good at, then attempted finishishing blasts, which they were not quite as good at, yet.  I merely say that because I was not impressed by the finish of this pipe.  It looked kind of Play-doughy – unicolor and lacked definition. 

    I still wasn’t sure when the pipe was made.  Reading through the pipedia content on Charatan led me to a convoluted history with several “eras” for Charatan pipes but little to no information of Mountbatten.  If I assume the shape numbers remained the same for Chatatan and Mountbatten which I thought was a reasonable assumption, then they would be consistent.  Hmm, I was wrong about that.  818 was never a Charatan shape. The pipedia.org does have a single photo of a Mountbatten with a very similar shape number and finish:

    (File:Mountbatten 812, courtesy of Chris Rigol.jpg – Pipedia) 

    The Restoration

    As per tradition, I placed a relatively clean denim piece on the work surface.

    The ream team was gathered and included the following:  PipNet with the #2 & #3 blades, the General triangular scraper with the tip ground round and the Smokingpipes Low Country reamer.

    The PipNet’s #2 and #3 blades did the majority of the reaming.

    The clean-up was done with the other two scrapers.

    After Reaming the tobacco chamber was sanded with 320 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel.  There were a couple of gouges on the walls of the tobacco chamber from previous scraping/reaming but no signs of heat damage.  I thought that a bowl coating may be beneficial and hoped that I’d remember to do it.  The below photo also shows the lava deposits that I hoped the stummel scrubbing would eliminate. 

    The stem was cleaned with bristle pipe cleaners and 99% ethyl alcohol.  The stem was surprisingly clean.

    A pipe cleaner was inserted into the stem to act as a handle for removing the stem from the Briarville Pipe Stem Oxidation Remover (lovingly called deox).

    The shank proved to be a bit more difficult to clean than the stem.  This cleaning was done in similar fashion to the stem but with a nylon shank brush joining the assault.

    Once the shank was cleaned the stummel was taken to the sink for a scrub.  Here I used a nylon brush with Murphy Oil Soap, undiluted.  The soap was rinsed with warm water.

    Not being completely satisfied with the scrubbing, I upgraded to a brass brush and repeated the process.  After the rinse I dried the stummel with a cotton hand towel.

    Back at the workbench the stummel was wiped with 99% ethyl alcohol on a make-up pad.  This removed a little bit of color, perhaps a stain or wax residue.

    I wanted to give this pipe an alcohol-cotton treatment to eliminate any remaining smoking residue from the airway/tobacco chamber.  The tobacco chamber was packed with cotton along with the shank.  I figured that 10 ml of alcohol would be the right amount. 

    The 10 ml of alcohol was applied with a disposable pipette.  It saturated the cotton completely and would dissolve the smoking residues and deposit them onto the cotton as the alcohol evaporated overnight.

    The next day I saw a purple color on the cotton packed into the shank.  This purple was usually from potassium permanganate (KMnO₄).  KMnO₄ is an oxidizing agent that is/was used as a stain for wood.  Maybe the shank end had been stained this way, certainly the whole stummel had not been.

    The cotton in the tobacco chamber did not have any of the purple coloring.

    The cotton was removed and the stem cleaned again to remove any of the remaining residues that the alcohol may have softened but not liberated from the airway.

    I removed the stem from deox.  It was placed on a coarse shop rag where I vigorously hand buffed it.  This removed some of the oxidized rubber which had been softened by the deox process.

    Bah!  The deox had removed some of the definition of the logo.  This occurs when the oxidation is deeper than the stamping.  The stem was returned to the workbench where it received a coating of mineral oil to keep it from further oxidizing.

    I thought that this stummel would look better if the low spots of the blast were darker than the high spots.  To achieve this I thought a base coat of Fiebing’s Dark Brown Leather Dye would work nicely.  The tobacco chamber was sealed off with a wine bottle cork.  A folded pipe cleaner acted as my applicator for the dye and a lighter provided a flame to burn away the solvent portion of the alcohol based dye.

    A single coat of dye was applied and flamed.

    I allowed the dye to dry then took it to the buffer.  I only wanted to remove the dye from the high spots so a light touch was used when buffing with rouge buffing compound.

    TO give the pipe more definition I lightly sanded the high spots with a 400 grit sanding sponge.

    The stummel was wiped with a make-up pad dipped in alcohol to remove buffing compound and sanding debris then a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm was applied and worked into the briar with a baby toothbrush.

    After about 15 minutes the Restoration Balm was hand buffed with an inside out athletic sock to remove the remaining balm.

    I covered the stem logo with a piece of masking tape to preserve the remaining logo.

    The shank was covered with a layer of masking tape to avoid sanding a well.

    The stem was sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 400-3500 grits.  Between each sponge, I rubbed the stem with mineral oil and wiped it with a paper towel.

    The stem was then micro-meshed with the 4000-12000 pads.  Between each pad, I rubbed the stem with Obsidian Oil and wiped it with a paper towel.

    I buffed the stem with a blue compound on the dedicated blue compound buffing wheel.

    After buffing the stem, I removed the tape from the shank and the stem logo.  The logo was still slightly degraded by the deox process.  Hmm, I had hoped it would heal.  Yeah, unreasonable and foolish but still a hope.  It didn’t.

    To bend the unsanded/micor-meshed/buffed logo area, I tried to polish it with Before and After Fine Polish applied and hand buffed with a soft cloth.

    I chose this white acrylic paint because I had it available, it’s water soluble, dries quickly and it reminds me that I need to paint a few miniatures for gaming.

    I worked the white acrylic paint into the stampings of the logo with a cotton swab.

    The excess white acrylic was buffed off with a soft cotton cloth then re-micro-meshed the logo with a 12000 pad.

    I reassembled the pipe and thought back to the before photo.

    And compared it to the after.  I think the contrast dye brought out the texture of the blast better and added depth and character to the pipe.

    The pipe was then returned to the buffer for several coats of carnauba wax.  

    The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth.

    Well, I thought I was finished then I saw the bowl when I was going to take the finished photos of the pipe.  DOH! I forgot that I wanted to give this pipe a bowl coating.  I coated the interior of the chamber with 100% applied with a cotton swab.  A capsule of carbon powder was poured into the chamber after I had blocked the airway with a pipe cleaner.  

    The rim was covered with a piece of painters tape.  The stummel was shaken for about one minute.  I removed the tape, pipe cleaner, dumped the excess carbon powder and blew through the airway to clear the remaining powder.

    The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth (the real final step).

    This Mountbatten Billiard turned out very nicely.  The contrast dye helped eliminate the unicolor of the original finish.  The stem polished-up nicely even though I did lose some of the detail on the logo.  I went with a bowl coating to address a couple of gouges in the tobacco chamber from overexuberant scraping.  The blast texture is very pleasant in hand and brings out the lovely grain to this pipe.  Overall this pipe looks well made and of quality briar  that should provide years of enjoyment for the next owner.  The dimensions of the Mountbatten Billiard are:

    Length:  5.61 in./ 142.49 mm.

    Weight:  1.41 oz./ 39.97 g.

    Bowl Height: 1.92 in./  48.77 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.63 in./ 41.40 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.74 in./ 18.80 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.48 in./ 37.59 mm. (from cheek to cheek)

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the finished Mountbatten Billiard.

  • A Marxman Figural Bulldog, really a dog not the pipe shape, Restoration

    October 20th, 2025

    Photographed and written by

    John M. Young

    The other day a friend was showing me the wonders of ChatGPT and how I could use it to write these blogs.  NEVER!  I do not think that any artificial intelligence will ever understand the feeling of satisfaction of restoring something as simple and inconsequential yet personally important as a tobacco pipe.  I fully intended this restoration to be a short and simple project.  I’ve restored many Marxman pipes so the research could be recycled and referred to and the pipe was in great shape.  Until it became like the “stinky car” episode from Seinfeld.  I’ll let you read about that later.

    And you’re a good dog. Oh sorry, I forgot who my audience was.  The Marxman was in pretty good shape and had not appeared to be heavily used.  Judging by the lack of tooth chatter on the stem and the relatively clean stinger and bowl it looked as though it had not been smoked more than a dozen times.  There was some oxidation on the stem and a fill in the dog’s right ear that I did not like the look of but overall this looked like a straight forward restoration.  This pipe was very large, I feel like I should mention that.

    Background

    Due to a level of laziness that impresses even myself, I will use the following from the restoration on a Marxman Rattlesnake figural pipe that I finished recently:

    “I have done a lot of Marxman restorations.  Next to Peterson pipes I am sure Marxman pipes come close as to numbers.  I have also written about the history of Robert Marx and how he formed and built up the company during World War Two, not an easy task considering the main material of his production was nearly inaccessible during the war years.  If you would like more information I think I did an acceptable job on Marxman history in the following blog:  A Marxman Dublin Gold Band Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek.  Yeah it’s still written by me, but it’s pretty good for a change.

    As for Marxman figurals I have done a camel and a monk/friar.” (A Marxman Rattlesnake Figural Pipe Restoration – NebraskaPeteGeek).

    This pipe shows a carving skill that I think surpasses the carvings of the previous Marxman figural pipe that I have done.  Though the camel pipe is also of high quality.  The briar used must have been a very substantial piece of wood for the time.  I would place this pipe also within the late 1940s-1953 time frame.  All of the Marxman pipes from this period were carved in New York City.

    The Restoration

    After the “before” photos the pipe was taken to the workbench where it got to sit on the Barely used denim piece.  I say barely used since the last restoration (I linked it if you are curious) was so darn clean I had little chance to dirty the denim.

    I was able to pull the stinger from the stem with little effort.

    I place the stinger into a medicine cup with 10ml of 99% ethyl alcohol to start it’s cleaning.

    While the stinger soaked I cleaned the airway of the stem with alcohol and bristle pipe cleaners.  

    A look down the mortise showed little smoking residue.

    The ream team was gathered and included the PipNet and the General triangular scraper.

    There was a surprising amount of cake removed with the PipNet and the #2 blades.  

    The reamed tobacco chamber looked better but would need sanding to check for any damage to the chamber walls.

    Sure enough, sanding did show some light heat fissures.  These would be addressed with a bowl coating. 

    The shank cleaning was done with cotton swabs and bristle pipe cleaners dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.

    The stem was lightly sanded in preparation for a soaking in Briarville Pipe Stem Oxidation Remover, also known as deox.

    A pipe cleaner was inserted into the tenon to act as a handle for retrieving the stem after a 6 hour soak.

    The stummel was scrubbed with Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

    Back at the workbench the stummel was wiped with 95% ethyl alcohol on a make-up pad.  The briar looked bare of any finish except for a few places in the depressions of the carvings.

    In the photo below, you can see a pit  and a small patch of a clear coat or lacquer. 

    The left ear of the bulldog must have also had a pit which was filled with the dreaded pink goo used as a filler.  I was thinking of methods to smooth out that lump of goo.

    This pipe had an aroma which I refer to as “granny purse”.  It is that smell that my grandmother’s purse had, kind of like something which had been repeatedly exposed to perfume where the perfume smell lingers long after it should.  I thought that it was due to the previous owner smoking  a Lakeland blend containing geranium oil.  I figured that an alcohol and cotton treatment would rid the pipe of the floral ghost and allow me some time to think of ways to fix that ear.  The tobacco chamber and shank were packed with cotton.

    95% ethyl alcohol was added to the cotton with a disposable pipette until the cotton was saturated.

    The alcohol cotton treatment would take an overnight wait so I turned to cleaning the stinger.  

    Since the pipe’s stem was still soaking in deox, I found an extra stem which fit the stinger.  This stem would provide me with a handle for buffing/polishing the stinger on the buffer.

    The stinger was buffed using a blue compound and looked much better.

    After the buffing and the removal of any remaining blue compound the stinger looked great.

    Below is a photo of the saturated cotton as I headed to bed.

    The next day the majority of the alcohol had evaporated.  This evaporation allows the alcohol to dissolve smoking residues and draw them into the cotton where they are deposited.

    I removed the cotton.  The cotton in the shank had a strange pick color.  The briar did not stain the make-up pad with alcohol pink as it would if a red dye had been used to stain the briar.  What is this? I wondered.

    I used a couple of cotton swabs to re-clean the shank.

    To address the pit, I used briar dust and thin cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue).  The pit received a tiny drop of CA which then had briar dust pressed into it.  The briar dust then received another drop of CA.

    The fill was then filed with a small flat file and smoothed with a 400 grit sanding sponge.

    My thinking of ways to fix the pink-goo-ear-fill was to re-carve it using a Dremel rotary tool.  The first bit I used was the pointy bit, below.

    The second bit used was more rounded to allow for a smoother finish.

    Below is a photo of the re-carved ear.  I could only see a tiny pit which I did not think required all that pink-goo.

    The stummel was sanded with 400 then 600 grit sanding sponges.  I did not want to over-sand and remove any detail of the carving.

    The stummel was then coated in Before and After Restoration Balm, applied with a baby toothbrush, and allowed to sit for 30 minutes.

    The stem was removed from deox.  What was supposed to be a six hour soak turned into an 18 hour soak.  The stem was vigorously rubbed with a coarse shop rag.  This allows for the absorption of excess solution and removes some oxidized rubber.

    The stem appeared to be pitted from the deox removing oxidized rubber.   

    I applied a coating of Mark Hoover’s Before and After Hard Rubber Balm.  I thought that this might help condition the vulcanite, this was allowed to rest for 6 hours.  

    The Restoration Balm was wiped from the stummel using an inside out athletic sock.

    When I returned to the stem, I wiped the remaining Hard Rubber Balm off with a dry paper towel.  The shank of the pipe was wrapped in masking tape to protect the shank from the sanding.  I then started sanding the stem with a series of sanding sponges from 320-1000 grit.  Between each sponge I rubbed the stem with mineral oil and wiped it with a dry paper towel.

    There was still a lingering granny purse smell to this pipe.  I thought another alcohol cotton treatment might remedy that.

    The cotton was removed the next day and it was still pulling some of that pink color from the airway of the shank.  Was this the source of the granny purse aroma?

    The tape was removed and cleaned with alcohol to rid the shank of any residual adhesive.  I then worked a bit of the Before and After Restoration Balm into the briar there and around the rim.  After that sat for 10 minutes I again wiped it with the athletic sock and took the pipe to the buffer for a few coats of carnauba wax.

    The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth.

    This Marxman Figural Bulldog is a true beauty. It is a handful of a pipe and weighs in at over 3 ounces (88.45 g).  The amazing thing is that it clenches very well and does not feel nearly that heavy.  The expressive eyes of the carving are an indication of the skill of the carver and the quality of the carving.  The fill and the recarving of the ear that I did, were small touches which I think added to the pipe.  The briar itself must have been huge for this time period, just based on the size of the block, I am thinking this pipe was made after World War Two.  The dimensions of the Marman Figural Bulldog pipe are:

    Length: 7 in./178 mm.

    Weight:  3.12 oz./ 88.45 g.

    Bowl Height: 2.00 in./  50.80 mm.

    Chamber Depth: 1.44 in./ 36.58 mm.

    Chamber Diameter:  0.72 in./ 18.29 mm. 

    Outside Diameter:  1.77 in./ 44.96 mm. (from cheek to cheek)

    Oh, I almost forgot. Did the second alcohol cotton treatment exorcise the “granny purse” ghost? Mostly. There still remains a very slight hint of the geranium oil. I think that it should disappear with a couple of bowls of pipe tobacco.

    I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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    Below are some photos of the finished Marman Figural Bulldog.

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