Tag: Bowl – finishing

A No Name Canadian Restoration

April 19th, 2024
Photographed and written by

John M. Young

Why is it that some pipes can’t qualify for the maker stamping their name on the pipe? Not to sound like President Biden but, “Come on, man.” IMPORTED BRIAR is not enough of a name to mean anything except that your briar is imported (Duh, isn’t it all imported?) and that the pipe was likely made in the US after World War 2 (WWII).

Fortunately our government is there protecting us from the diabolical domestic terrorist native briar cartels. As can be seen by,

“Section 304 of the Tariff Act of 1930, as amended (19 U.S.C. 1304)

provides that, unless excepted, every article of foreign origin

imported into the U.S. shall be marked in a conspicuous place as

legibly, indelibly, and permanently as the nature of the article (or

container) will permit, in such a manner as to indicate to the ultimate

purchaser in the U.S. the English name of the country of origin of the

article. Congressional intent in enacting 19 U.S.C. 1304 was that the

ultimate purchaser should be able to know by an inspection of the

marking on the imported goods the country of which the goods is the

product.

    Part 134, Customs Regulations (19 CFR Part 134), implements the

country of origin marking requirements and exceptions of 19 U.S.C.

1304. As provided in section 134.41, Customs Regulations (19 CFR

134.41), the country of origin marking is considered to be conspicuous

if the ultimate purchaser in the U.S. is able to find the marking

easily and read it without strain.”

(https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/FR-1994-11-15/html/94-28159.htm)

Use your best Yoda impression to read the following, “The sarcasm is strong in this one.”

Okay, what are we looking at with this restoration?

The Restoration

Perhaps it is for the best that little information can be gleaned from the stamping to the heritage of this pipe. All that background and history research would just keep me from addressing the things that need fixing with this pipe. First off there is a clear coat to eliminate. Then there is the standard reaming and cleaning, followed by repairing the damaged rim and stem. I think the briar would benefit from a contrast stain allowing for a highlight red to be accented by black. Stay tuned to see what happens.

Of course I will begin with a clean denim piece protecting the work surface. Someday I will get around to stripping the finish from this old roll top desk that I use as a workbench. It has a shellac finish that does not agree with spilled alcohol or acetone. A polyurethane would make more sense but it was my grandfather’s desk and I don’t want to alter it too much.

I worked on reaming the tobacco chamber first. The PipNet with a #2 blades after I had scraped the hard dry cake a bit with the General triangular scraper. The problem was that the chamber had a diameter that was a touch too large for the #2 blades and too small for the #3 blades. This meant more scraping.

The chamber was sanded with 220 sandpaper to get to clean briar then finish sanded with 320 sandpaper. There was no heat damage observed in the chamber.

That brings us to the rim. The lava deposits made inspection of the rim difficult. Though there did appear to be charring at the 8 o’clock position of the photo below and around the inside edge of the rim from 3-8 o’clock.

The rim was moistened with saliva then scraped with a shape pocket knife.

A further scraping revealed that the rim damage was all around the rim. The charing was also around most of the inside edge. Topping this stummel and removing the dents and dings would be required. I was hoping to only remove about 1/16 of an inch, 1-2 mm of briar from the rim. Beveling of both the inside and outside edges would remove the edge damage and keep me from removing even more briar.

After the reaming of the tobacco chamber, I poured 2-3 ml of 99% isopropyl alcohol into the chamber and allowed the alcohol to flow into the shank. I then used a nylon shank brush to scrub the airway. I poured this alcohol into a clean medicine cup. I was surprised that the alcohol did not have the dark color that I had expected. The long shank would make scraping the airway very difficult.

The stummel was taken to the sink. Here I used undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a medium stiff toothbrush to scrub the exterior of the stummel. The stummel was rinsed with warm water and dried with a cotton washcloth. I then decided to check the shank airway by using the shank brush with a bit of Dawn dish soap. I was still having trouble believing that the airway was as clean as the alcohol led me to believe. The Dawn shank brush scrub did not result in dark lather. Maybe the previous owner did keep the airway clean. The evidence was mounting in his favor but the question lingered, “If the rim was that fouled with lava, why did he keep the airway clean?”

I returned to the workbench for another go at cleaning the airway. About 5 ml of 99% isopropyl alcohol was used this time and scrubbed with the shank brush. When this alcohol was poured out I saw the dark color I had expected. The airway was dirty; it had just taken a bit of scrubbing to soften the yuck (yuck is a highly technical term to describe the smoking residue). It was present, not easily scraped and needed to be removed. This was going to be a long one. I just realized the unintended pun, there – long shank, long cleaning job.

Before I started the shank airway cleaning I wanted to top the stummel and remove the clear coat as it got sticky with the alcohol.

The topping was done by moving the stummel in a circular motion on a clean sheet of 220 sandpaper laid flat on a countertop. Every 3-4 circles I would rotate the stummel in my hand to keep an even pressure of all sides of the stummel. I wanted to remove about 1/16 inch or 2 mm of briar from the rim. This would not be enough to eliminate the rim edge damage but I figured I could remedy that by beveling the outside edge of the rim.

Next, I first tried removing it with 95% ethyl alcohol. That worked albeit slowly.

I then tried wiping it with acetone. This worked better and faster.

With the finish mostly removedI set to cleaning the stem. The airway was cleaned with bristle pipe cleaners dipped in 99% isopropyl alcohol. The outside was lightly sanded with a 320 grit sanding sponge then with Soft Scrub applied to make-up pads.

Next came the shank cleaning. The long shank did not allow for effective scraping with a dental scraper. The cleaning did utilize a nylon shank brush with numerous scrubbings of the airway with 5 ml of 95% alcohol poured into the bowl and allowed to flow into the shank. While in the airway the alcohol was scrubbed with the brush. Below you can see the medicine cup use to collect the alcohol after the scrubbing.

There were a couple of dents in the lower left section of the stummel. I used a hot iron and a damp rag to raise these.

Below is a photo of the stummel partially wrapped in the wetted cotton rag and pressed against the hot clothes iron.

The steam from the iron heated water raised the dents very nicely.

After the shank was cleaned the pits on the stummel were filled using a small drop of cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) and briar dust. A small drop of CA was applied to the pit then sanded with a 400 sanding sponge. The dust from the sponge combines with the wet CA to fill the pit. Additional applications were used for deeper pits.

I wanted a contrast dye that had a base of black with a secondary dye of red. I hoped that this would give the pipe an accented grain in black with reddish hued highlights. To achieve this I first dyed the stummel black with Fiebing’s Leather dye. The dye was applied with a folded pipe cleaner and flamed with a disposable lighter.

A duct tape wrapped fishing bobber was used to keep dye from the tobacco chamber and to act as a handle.

The black dye was then wiped from the stummel using several make-up pads dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.

The stummel was then sanded with a 320 sanding sponge to remove the outermost black dyed briar leaving the underlying black dyed briar in place, accentuating the grain.

A second dying of the stummel was then done with Fiebing’s Dark Red Leather Dye.

This was then wiped from the stummel using alcohol dipped make-up pads.

The sanding of the stummel with a 400 grit sanding sponge then wiped with a clean alcohol dipped make-up pad resulted in the stummel looking quite red, below. Notice the strange surface crack just above center – this was filled using thin CA then sanded, with the sanding dust filling the crack.

Below is the contrast dyed stummel before any sanding with finer sanding sponges.

I felt like this pipe was living up to the unofficial Nebraska motto – Go Big Red.

Next on the list was the stem repair. I admit to getting into the “stem repair” mode and losing track of documenting the process. I start by de-oiling the areas to be repaired with an alcohol dipped cotton swab. Then small drops of black CA are placed into the depressions on the stem. The wet CA is spritzed with a CA drying accelerator. Once dry or cured the CA is filed with a flat needle file. If the depression is deep it may take several small drops of CA and subsequent spritzes with an accelerator to fill the depression. That was the case here. When I started photographing, I was already filing the second application.

A third application was applied and spread around to thin over a larger area using the tip of the applicator on the bottle. This was then spritzed, filed and sanded with a 400 grit sanding sponge. The next two photos show the depressions filled and sanded with the 4000 sponge.

The stem was slightly “over-clocked”. This led to the stem not aligning correctly with the stummel, as it had been over tightened. There are two ways to address this:

1) to heat the aluminum screw-in tenon until the stem is slightly melted, then rotate the aluminum to the correct position and allow it to cool.

2) Add a light layer of black CA to the edge of the stem and allow it to cure.

Both methods work but come with downsides of being time consuming and tedious. I chose to use the adding of black CA to the stem. Since the alignment was very sligh, only a few degrees I only needed to “paint” or apply a single coat of black CA to the stem.

The pipe was sanded intact. I wanted to smooth out the mortise tenon joint as the original fit was less than smooth feeling. I used a series of sanding sponges with grits from 1000-3500, in sequence. Between each sponge the stummel was wiped with a make-up pad wetted with alcohol while the stemI received a bit of mineral oil rubbed in by fingertip then wiped with a paper towel.

After the sanding sponges I used a sequence of micro-mesh pads from 4000-12000. The stummel was wiped between each pad as above. The stem received a drop of Obsidian Oil between pads, rubbed in by fingertip and wiped with a paper towel.

The pipe then was coated with Before and After Restoration Balm. The balm was allowed to sit for 15 minutes.

The excess balm was wiped with an inside-out cotton athletic sock to reveal a beautiful rejuvenated contrast dyed briar.

The stem was further polished using Before and After Fine Polish. The polish was applied by fingertip and hand buffed with a soft cotton cloth.

The polishing was finished using the Before and After Extra Fine Polish using the above procedures.

The final step was to apply several coats of carnauba wax using the buffer.

I am quite pleased with how well this Italian Canadian of unknown make turned out. It is a large pipe yet is surprisingly light in hand. The contrast staining yielded the color that I had in my mind as I was imagining how it would look finished. The screw-in tenon fits and aligns well. Though not the most beautiful grain the contrast stain definitely improved the look of the briar and is accentuated by the high gloss black stem. I am certain that this will be a nice smoking pipe even without a maker’s stamp.

The dimensions of this large Canadian are:
- Length: 6.67 in./ 169.42 mm.
- Weight: 1.40 oz./ 39.8 g.
- Bowl Height: 1.88 in./ 47.75 mm.
- Chamber Depth: 1.65 in./ 41.91 mm.
- Chamber Diameter: 0.78 in./ 19.81 mm.
- Outside Diameter: 1.46 in./ 37.08 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

Below are some photos of the finished no name Italian Canadian.

I think I might have to start selling these post restoration denim pieces as wall art.
A Large Italian Oval Shank Billiard Restoration

April 11th, 2024
Photographed and written by

John M. Young

Well, I have good news and bad news. Or maybe, it’s good news and good news. I have an Italian oval shank billiard, here. The bad news is that I can’t do much about the history of a pipe when the only stamp on it is “ITALY”. Now, if you find my histories or background sections annoying this is good news. The other good news is how well this pipe turned out. She is a very attractive no name.

The pipe came to me as part of an estate lot purchased in March of 2024. It was not the target of the lot. After looking over the pipes I found the shank shape very interesting. It was kind of an oval but with points on the ends and it was tapered from wide at the bowl to narrower at the stem. I thought that it was more like a Canadian shape but Canadian shanks are not tapered. The grain of the briar looked pretty uninteresting, at first glance, and there were no identifying markings so, it went back into the box of future projects. Several weeks later I was looking through the box again and the stem drew me back to the pipe. Here is what I was seeing:

Just another old pipe, right? But that shank was cool. I thought, “wait, there is some interesting grain under the grime and crappy stain. This old girl will clean up nice.” Well, spoiler alert – A contrast stain would really show off the grain. Yeah, the stem was a mess, she was dirty, there were pits to fill, and who knows what lies under that lava covered rim?

The Restoration

As usual a clean denim piece was added to the workbench. I knew this piece of denim was not going to look clean for very long.

I began with the stem. I figured that it was going to be in the Before and After Deoxidizing solution for several hours so, best to get it in there first. I sanded the worst of the oxidation and calcium from the stem with a 320 grit sanding sponge.

Yep, so much for the clean denim.

Next I cleaned out the inside of the stem with bristle pipe cleaners dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol. Ignore the aluminum stinger soaking in the alcohol, that’s part of another project. After the cleaning the stem went into deox (my term for the Before and After Deoxidizing solution).

With the stem in deox, I turned to reaming the stummel. The pipe had a large diameter bowl and was drilled with a tapered tobacco chamber. This required using the PipNet with the #2, #3 and the Scotte reaming tools.

The reaming was finished with the General triangular scraper and sanded with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel. The tobacco chamber showed no signs of any heat damage. The rim on the other hand was still doing it’s impression of a Hawian island with it’s lava flows.

The lava was softened with saliva and scraped from the rim using a sharp pocket knife.

After the reaming and rim scraping the stummel was taken to the sink. Here it was scrubbed with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap and a medium stiff toothbrush. The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton dish towel.

After the scrub, I sanded the stummelwith 320 and 400 grit sanding sponges searching for pits, dents and dings to fill.

Several were found a couple had to have the old fill or dirt picked from them. ALl were filled using brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) and briar dust.

The next day, I returned to the deox tank. The stem had been soaking for 12-14 hours. I removed the stem and let the excess solution drip back into the jar.

The stem was then hand buffed with a coarse shop rag.

Returning to the workbench I started scrubbing the stem with Soft Scrub on make-up pads.

I progressed to using the Soft Scrub with the remnants of my Magic Eraser.

Once the pads started to provide a significantly less color change the step was coated with mineral oil and allowed to sit.

I thought that a contrast stain would allow the grain of the briar to be more apparent. I chose Dark Brown mixed with Black Fiebing’s Leather Dye. I mixed the brown to black at a 2:1 ratio. Prior to applying the dye I heated the stummel with the heat gun, shown below. The dye was applied with a folded pipe cleaner and flamed with the lighter. Two coats were applied and flamed.

Returning to the workbench, I dipped make-up pads into 95% ethyl alcohol and wiped the stummel. I wanted to get as much of the dye off of the stummel as possible.

Once the dye had been wiped from the stummel I started sanding the surface with a 320 sanding sponge. The sponge needed to be wiped off on the denim frequently to free it from the accumulated briar dust. Below shows the stummel ½ sanded illustrating the accentuation of the grain.

When finished with the 320 sanding sponge I sanded with a 400 sponge. Between the sandings I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad dipped in alcohol.

I wanted to sand the stem and the stummel together to avoid rounding the edges of each piece. This meant that I needed to finish the stem. I wiped the mineral oil from the stem and used a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to clean the oil from the area I would be working on. I used black CA to fill the tooth dents.

I applied the black CA into the dents and spritzed the stem with a CA drying accelerator.

The cured CA was then filed smooth with a flat needle file.

Additional coats of CA were added to further smooth and blend the repaired areas.

I prefer to work with several light coats rather than a single heavy coat of CA. Below the dark spots are areas where another application is needed to fill a depression.

Below is after filing and sanding to 400 grit.

The same process was done for the bottom side of the stem.

Once the stem had been sanded with the 600 grit sanding sponge the two pieces were reattached and the pipe was sanded together. The 1000-3500 sanding sponges were used in series with care not to sand the ITALY stamp. Between each sponge the stummel was wiped off with an alcohol moistened make-up pad. The stem had a bit of mineral oil rubbed inby fingertip and then wiped with a paper towel.

The pipe was then polished with a series of micro-mesh pads from 4000-12000. Between each pad the stummel was wiped off with an alcohol moistened make-up pad. The stem had a small drop of Obsidian Oil rubbed in by fingertip and then wiped with a paper towel.

The stummel received a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm and was allowed to sit for 20 minutes.

20 minutes later the Restoration Balm was wiped from the stummel using an inside-out athletic sock.

The final step of the restoration was to apply several coats of carnauba wax to the pipe using a buffer.

This lovely Italian oval shank billiard may not have a stamp indicating a maker and will thus be considered a “less than” pipe but looking at the before and after photo below, I dare you to call her “less than”. She is more than average in quality of briar, workmanship and quality of finish. I am quite pleased at how well this billiard turned out. The stem had me a bit

worried but after the repair it polished up nicely. The Contrast stain did indeed make the briar grain shine. This old girl will be a grand smoker and will hopefully bring someone many years of enjoyment.

The dimensions of this little beauty are:
- Length: 5.50 in./ 139.7 mm.
- Weight: 1.34 oz./ 37.80 g.
- Bowl Height: 1.97 in./ 50.04 mm.
- Chamber Depth: 1.72 in./ 43.69 mm.
- Chamber Diameter: .82 in./ 20.83 mm.
- Outside Diameter: 1.47 in./ 37.39 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

Below are some photos of the finished Italian No Name Oval Shank Billiard.

Wow, I have to work on that button. The bright light makes it look oxidized.

By the way, here is the finished piece of denim.
An Oxford, Made in Holland, Bent Brandy

March 26th, 2024

Photographed and written by

John M. Young

I am the first to admit that love at first sight is a convenient trope which heroic epics and princess stories utilize. Well, I should say “I was the first”, that is until I saw this Oxford bent brandy on a well known internet auction site. I was smitten. Though not usually a fan of saddle stems, because they are hard to sand well. And, also not a fan of aluminum stingers which the aluminum band indicated would be present. This little darling had two strikes against her from the start. I couldn’t stop thinking about her. When the end of the auction drew near no one had even granted her a starting bid. I picked her up for just that, the starting bid.

I suppose I had better show you what I was seeing before we go any further.

About this Oxford

I have very limited knowledge of pipes made in the Netherlands or as this pipe is stamped OXFORD over MADE IN HOLLAND, I did know that Holland is a region of the western edge of the Netherlands. See Dr. Barris, I was paying attention in The Geography of Europe, spring semester 1985. I have worked on Amphora and Hilson pipes, two historic and Dutch pipe makers. The Oxford name, met with rather empty results when I searched pipedia.org and pipephil.eu. Oh sure there were hits from pipes carrying the Oxford name but none made in Holland. I used pipephil.eu’s “Search by country” -> Netherlands and received a list of makers with Dutch pedigrees. From this list I was able to view stampings and look for the illusive MADE IN HOLLAND stamp.

The list of suspects:

Big-Ben Barbados – MADE IN HOLLAND in a circle and shape number

Verdict: Innocent

(http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-bigben.html)

Big-Ben Jockey – MADE IN HOLLAND in line and a shape number

Verdict: Innocent

(http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-bigben.html)

Big-Ben Ranger – MADE IN HOLLAND in line but the logo did not match

Verdict: Innocent

(http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-bigben.html)

Big-Ben Straight Grain – MADE IN HOLLAND in line but neither logo a match

Verdict: Innocent

(http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-bigben.html)

Big-Ben Viking – MADE IN HOLLAND in line but logo did not match

Verdict: Innocent

(http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-bigben.html)

Big-Ben Thompson – MADE IN HOLLAND in line but logo did not match. A second Big-Ben Thompson is stamped WEST GERMANY with a nonmatching logo

Verdict: Innocent

(http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-t5.html#thompson)

Big-Ben Maestro – MADE IN HOLLAND in line with a very ornate nonmatching logo

Verdict: Innocent

(http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-bigben.html)

Hilson – MADE IN BELGIUM for the country of manufacture (COM)

Verdict: Innocent

(http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-h3.html)

Royal Dutch Roermond – MADE IN HOLLAND in line with a very ornate nonmatching logo

Verdict: Innocent

(http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-r5.html)

Royal Dutch MADE IN HOLLAND in line with a nonmatching logo

Verdict: Innocent

(http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-r6.html)

Well shoot, that was a lot of work for nothing. Now I know what the prosecution in the O.J. Simpson trial felt like. With no definitive answer to the pedigree of this pipe I am using editorial conjecture to call it a likely product of the Gubbels factory. Here is where I imagine you saying. “What? Who the heck is this Gubbels and where did he come from?” Good questions, both. I will defer to pipedia.org for a nice account of the briar pipe manufacturing in the Netherlands.

“With the help of his family the father of Elbert Gubbels Sr. started a retail shop for tobacco pipes and other smoker’s equipment in 1870.

In 1924 Elbert Gubbels Sr., now father / grandfather of the present owners, transformed it into a wholesale trade business. The company grew steadily and imported pipes from various countries as there were no factories producing briar pipes in the Netherlands. The most important suppliers came from France and England.

When German troops occupied the Netherlands in May of 1940, a period of almost five years began in which the Gubbels family could hardly operate their business at all. During this years of forced rest Elbert Gubbels had a notion to become independent of foreign suppliers and he drew up plans to start his own production of tobacco pipes after World War II.

Immediately succeeding the war it was very difficult to obtain good pipes for the import of foreign pipes was limited and so the time was right to go for something new. In 1946 he launched pipe production at Godsweerdersingel No. 20 in Roermond with a couple of new machines and some workers, a couple of them being foreign specialists and considered himself to commence. Yet the cramped accomodations and the needy equipment of the workshop showed the limits all too soon. It was obvious that the workshop was inadequate and Mr. Gubbels invested in another building covering an area of 900m² that also offered a sufficient warehouse. Now the production could be increased going hand in hand with developing new models and improving the quality of the pipes being produced.

The production grew steadily but it showed now that an “international” brand name was required for further expansion on international markets – obviously no one cared too much for pipes made in the Netherlands. Feeling that the time involved to get a new brand established was too lengthy, Mr. Gubbels bought a small trade company in Amsterdam which owned all the rights to the brand Big Ben and was already well established in other countries selling pipes among other goods. A real happenstance – Gubbels products could be marketed now in all European countries, the USA, Canada and many other countries, and nowadays they can be found in almost every country world-wide.

In December 1972 the company opened new and very modern factory in Roermond at Keulsebaan 505. With the official opening by the Governor of the Province of Limburg, the Gubbels company was, on behalf of Her Majesty Queen Juliana of the Netherlands, granted the title “Royal” so that the official name became: Elbert Gubbels & Zonen – Koninklijke Fabriek van Tabakspijpen (Elbert Gubbels & Sons – Royal Dutch Pipe Factory).

In honour of this title, a new brand was designed and named Royal Dutch. This brand was also created, to negate the belief that Big Ben was of English origin.

At the end of the 1970’s, there were only two briar pipe factories in the Benelux countries: Gubbels in the Netherlands and Hillen in Bree, Belgium. When the latter encountered major financial difficulties in 1980, Gubbels bought the company together with its brand Hilson – a well established brand, which was selling better on the most important German market than Gubbels’ mainstay Big Ben. The factory in Bree was closed soon, so Gubbels is presently the only briar pipe producer in the Benelux countries. (Exept less than a handful of pipemakers!)

More recentely Gubbels got known as producer of the Porsche^[1] and Bugatti design pipes. Elbert Gubbels & Zonen B.V. is one of the worldwide biggest pipe producers today. Annually 250,000 – 300,000 pipes are made by ca. 60 employees. More than 70% of the production is exported.

In march 2012 Elbert Gubbels & Sons filed for bankruptcy.

You might also enjoy listening to Brian Levine’s interview of Elbert Gubbles on the PipeMagazine Radio Show“

(Gubbels – Pipedia)

Now do you see why I said Gubbels? The quote, “as there were no factories producing briar pipes in the Netherlands.” kind of gave it away. There was a long and great history of clay pipe production in Holland and the Netherlands was well as being the major trading hub of tobacco from 1700-1948 (Dutch tobacco trade | Dutch Pipe Smoker). I will include a few more sources of great information for those interested in the pipes and tobacco of the Netherlands:

Tobacco trade in Amsterdam Dutch tobacco trade | Dutch Pipe Smoker

Gouda pipe makers The Manufacture of Dutch Clay Tobacco-Pipes (binghamton.edu)

Porcelain pipes Zenith – Pipedia

Amphora Amphora – Pipedia

Gubbels and Royal Dutch Pipe company Gubbels – Pipedia

The Restoration

The restoration, like most others, started with a clean piece of denim to work on. The term clean is beginning to be questionable. Maybe, freshly washed and still stained , would be more accurate.

The pipe looked clean enough for me to skip the Murphy’s Oil Soap scrub and wipe the stummel with a make-up pad dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol. Hmm, perhaps skipping the scrub was a mistake?

Next I wanted to pick out all of the original fill material. Here is the before photo. Oh, notice that cool grain pattern right of the glare. I had never seen that before.

After the picking.

There was a second strange grain circle pattern on the opposite side and more picking.

And picking on the shank.

None of the fills were large and there really were not that many. Well, compared to a Mastercraft pipe.

Little fill here, little fill there.

When I finished picking on the stummel I decided to ream the tobacco chamber. The usual tools were gathered; PiNet with #2 blades, Smokingpipes Low Country Reamer wood dowel wrapped in 220 sandpaper. In the wings were the General triangular scraper and the Sharpie marker wrapped in 320 sandpaper.

I thought this would be easy as it looked like the pipe had been smoked less than 10 times. WRONG! There was a bowl coating in place that was like a rubberized pipe mud. It was gray in color and wouldn’t scrape off easily. I tried scraping, sanding, and alcohol to dissolve it, but nothing really worked. The stuff would clog sandpaper immediately and require a wire brush to clean it out of the sandpaper.

Eventually I did get it cleaned out and could see clean briar. There was no damage to the chamber. This was mostly because the pipe had been so seldom used but also because the impenetrable rubberized krypton bowl liner. That supposedly quick job took over 30 minutes.

Next I addressed filling all the pits that I had picked open. This was done using brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) and briar dust. I applied a dab of CA to the pit, if it was a millimeter or larger I then pressed a pinch of briar dust into the pit and rotated my finger. This pushed the briar dust into the CA wetted pit as well as bonded briar dust to the tip of my index finger. One of those was the result I was after. The newly filled fill was then sanded with a 400 sanding sponge.

For smaller pits I would just apply the CA to the pit and sand over it with a dusty (dusty with briar dust) sanding sponge. The sanding dust combined with the wet CA to fill the pit and it is sanded. Sometimes this took a couple of applications of CA and additional sanding.

Eventually all of the pits were willed and I was ready to move on to the stem.

The stem was oxidized but lacked significant tooth chatter. I again attribute this to the fact that the pipe had not been smoked much. I didn’t even bother photographing the two pipe cleaners that it took to clean out the airway. The one cotton swab used to clean out the 9mm filter space was left in the photo. Also I think I failed to mention that the aluminum accent ring was just that. An accent ring. It was not part of a screw in tenon. I guess that makes one of the two strikes that I mentioned at the beginning, a ball, not a strike. Although the whole 9mm filter thing is a strike. So we are back to two strikes and one ball. Oh, and the aluminum ring had broken free of the glue bond holding it to the stem.

I sanded the stem with the 400 and 600 sanding sponges preparing the stem for a bath in Before and After Deoxidizing solution.

I like to call this “going into deox”. Normally I put a stem in for 2-4 hours, forget about it for another hour or so, then remove it. This time I purposefully left it overnight, to be retrieved in the morning. Then I forgot about it for 2 hours. Total deox time 14 hours.

In the meantime I decided that I wanted to contrast-stain (please allow me to use stain and dye as synonyms) this stummel. The plan had two parts. Part one was to give it a coating of black to darken the softer grain of the briar, sand the surface removing the outer layer of darkened briar but keeping the soft grained area darker and the harder grained, less deeply dyed, areas lighter. Part two would be to redye the stummel with a diluted light brown dye, which is actually more yellow, allowing this to add a more yellow color to the light grained areas while not being noticed on the blackened areas.

Here we go: Black Fiebing’s Leather Dye preparations. Cover the work area with a couple paper towels and gather the gear needed; disposable lighter, folded over pipe cleaner, black dye, a duct tape wrapped fishing bobber (wine cork if you have them) and the subject stummel. I taped the stamping in an attempt to keep the dye from staining it. If it had gotten stained then I’d have to sand over the stamping , weakening the stamp, in order to make the stain look like it was blended and not like a “CENSORED” rectangle.

Use the folded pipe cleaner as the applicator for the dye and coat the stummel with dye. The duct tape wrapped bobber keeps unwanted dye out of the tobacco chamber and provides a handle since you need to forget to wear nitrile gloves. While the stummel is still wet, the wet dye aflame with the lighter. Look around for someone to show this blue flaming stummel to then realize your dogs don’t care.

I wiped the stummel with a paper towel to remove excess dye, mainly because I wasn’t wearing nitrile gloves and didn’t need black hands.

Back at the workbench I noticed that my tape had come off early in the dying process but it had worked long enough to keep the stamp mostly free of dye. I wiped the entire stummel with a make-up pad wetted with 95% ethyl alcohol.

Next came the sanding of the stummel with a 400 sanding sponge. The sponge was wiped off on the denim surface frequently to keep the sponge clean and remove the black dyed outer layer evenly. After the 400 sponge I used the 600 and 1000 sponges to further smooth and remove a little more black from areas. The stummel was then wiped with an alcohol wetted make-up pad.

It was now time for the coloring of the lighter areas. I used Fiebing’s Light Brown Leather dye diluted to 50% with 95% ethyl alcohol. A disposable pipette was used to measure out equal amounts of each liquid. I used a medicine cup for the mixing. The same procedure was used as before. And yes, I forgot to wear nitrile gloves again.

Below you can see the stummel has a more yellow or orange tint to it. This will lighten more with additional sanding and the wiping off of the stummel.

I returned to the workbench and wiped the stummel with an alcohol dampened make-up pad. Removing some of the light brown dye.

The below photo shows the stummel wet with alcohol.

The photo below shows the alcohol evaporated away.

I sanded the stummel with the sequence of sanding sponges 1500-3500. The stamping was avoided as much as possible to keep from weakening the stamp. Between each sponge I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad wetted with alcohol.

I micro-meshed the stummel with a sequence of 4000-12000 micro-mesh pads. Again wiping the stummel between each pad as done with the sanding sponges.

The stummel then received a coat of Before and After Restoration Balm applied by finger. The balm was allowed to sit and work it’s magic for 30 minutes.

The next morning, well two hours after I intended to, I removed the stem from the deox bath. It was hung and allowed to dip off excess solution. The stem was then vigorously rubbed with a coarse shop rag to remove any remaining deox solution.

I ram a couple of pipe cleaners through the airway and cleaned the 9mm filter opening with cotton swabs to eliminate the deox solution within. The H logo survived the deox bath. Yay!

Next came the soiling of many cotton make-up pads with Soft Scrub, elbow grease and oxidized vulcanite. The stem exterior was rubbed with mineral oil while the airway received a mineral oil dipped pipe cleaner run through it. The oil was allowed to sit for 30 minutes.

After the 30 minute oil absorption timer rang. It was at this time that I reglued the aluminum accent ring back onto the stem. I used a black CA bead around the base of the tenon then slid the ring into position. I applied a thin film of mineral oil to the tenon and the aluminum that contacted the shank in case any of the CA seeped away from where I wanted it. I hoped that the mineral oil would keep it from bonding to the shank or mortise. I taped the end of the shank and stem logo with painters tape. Either the mineral oil worked or the CA didn’t seep – after a few minutes the stem was removed from the shank and the aluminum ring was secure.

The logo was first scrubbed with an alcohol dipped cotton swab to remove oil and allow the tape to adhere. I then started sanding with a sequence of sanding sponges from 1000-3500 grit sanding sponges. Between each sponge, I would dip my fingertip in the mineral oil and rub the stem with oil then wipe away the oil with a paper towel.

The stem needed a new application of paint to the stamped logo. I used white acrylic model paint. The logo area was first cleaned of oil with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol then painted white.

The logo was then gently sanded with the 3000 grit sanding sponge to remove the paint not in the depressions of the logo.

I removed the tape from the shank and began micro-meshing the stem with a series of micro-mesh pads 4000-12000. Between each pad I applied a small drop of Obsidian oil, rubbed it onto the stem then wiped it away with a paper towel.

After the micro-meshing, I used Before and After Fine Polish followed by the Before and After Extra Fine Polish. Each polish was applied by finger then vigorously rubbed with a soft cotton cloth

The final step was to apply several coats of carnauba wax with the buffer. The wax was applied to both the stummel and stem. I then used a nanofiber polishing cloth to hand buff the pipe.

I liked the look of this pipe before and now after the restoration I liked it even more. The contrast staining produced the effect I was trying for although I did wish those two strange circular spots would have stained a bit better to show off the iris-like grain pattern. The stem polished up very nicely with the H now looking like a real logo. I did not have any 9mm pipe filters to use with this pipe to see if I like using a filter but I can attest to the pipe smoking very well without a filter. The thick briar provided a very cool smoke as well as feeling wonderful in hand. I did forget to mention that this pipe is drilled like a Peterson system pipe with a reservoir continuing down below the draft hole in the shank. I will try to photograph that and show it in the “finished” photos below. I do hope that you have found something here that you can use in the care or restoration of your pipes. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. I thank you very much for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

Below are some photos of the finished Oxford, made in Holland Bent Brandy.
A Medico Jet Stream Restoration

March 20th, 2024
Photographed and written by

John M. Young

I love the oddities and curiosities, as I call them, regarding the designs of pipes. I have a 4 pipe rack on my mantle that holds pipes which rotate out occasionally as I find a new oddity. Currently they are; a c.1924 MLC Hell Maria, a Wally Frank Windcapped Horn, a Tracy Mincer Doodler and Weber Windpruf. These have all been featured in previous blogs and I linked their respective blogs to their name.

Medico’s Jet Stream fits in the category of oddities and curiosities with its uniquely streamlined shape and place in history. As a kid growing up in the late 1960s and 1970’s I remember advertisements for products using terms like “futuristic”, ”rocket age”, “space age polymers”, etc… Heck, George Jetson even sported a pipe back then,

(https://comics.ha.com/itm/animation-art/production-cel/the-jetsons-george-jetson-production-cel-and-background-hanna-barbera-1962-85-/a/7108-94547.s)

I would never accuse Mr. Jetson of contributing to my obsession with tobacco pipes or addiction to nicotine , rather that was the world some of us grew up in. This Medico Jet Stream epitomizes that world for me.

Background on Medico and the Jet Stream

Medico, as a company, has roots back far further than that. According to TobaccoPipes.com,

“When you trace the Medico tobacco pipes history, you have to trace it back to the origins of the company that created it. The company that originated the Medico brand is the S.M Frank & Co. This company dates back to the year 1900. In that year, a man named Sam Frank began selling pipes and related tobacco products. Eventually, the company began making its own line of pipes. With the help of an experienced pipe manufacturer, Ferdinand Feuerbach, the company produced the popular Royal DeMuth and Hesson Guard Milano tobacco pipes. The company continued to grow well into the early part of the 1930s.

So, where did Medico pipes come into the picture?

By the early 1930s, there were some concerns about the tars and nicotine found in tobacco smoke. In order to mellow out the flavor of hot tobacco smoke as well as to capture the tars and nicotine, the S.M. Frank & Co. introduced the Medico pipe filter. This is an absorbent paper filter that many people still use to this day. In order to accommodate the new filter, the company developed an accompanying brand of pipes known as Medico. That line of pipes continues in production today.

The company ended up buying some of their main competition in 1955. That year the Kaywoodie brands came under the S.M. Frank Company. The Medico brand continued production through this transition without many changes. The next big change for the brand came in the late 1960s. In 1966, the company developed a synthetic material that combined the traditional briar wood with resins. It is known as Brylon. At that time, all Medico pipes were made from imported briar wood. In order to keep production costs down, the company began offering some lines with Brylon. Today, that is still true.

Today, the Medico brand of pipes is still a top selling one for the S.M Frank & Co. This line of pipes comes in thirteen different finishes with five made of briar wood and the rest from Brylon. All come with the push bit with a filter inside. The filter is easily changed out when the smoker desires. In the briar wood finishes, this line includes the Silver Crest, Premier, Bold Rebel, Kensington, and Windsor. In the Brylon, the line includes the Lancer, Apollo, Standard, Varsity, Conqueror, Medalist, Cavalier, and V.E.Q. As far as price, the briar wood pipes tend to be higher in cost that the Brylon ones.” (Medico Pipes History | TobaccoPipes.com)

There was no mention of the Jet Stream in the above article. Further research into the Jet Stream led me to a post by Anthony Cook, on Steve Laug’s rebornpipes.com, from January 2015. Anthony was restoring a Jet Stream and wrote:

“This time, it was a Medico Jet Stream. These were produced by Medico from sometime around 1965 until 1971.” (Turbulence: Rusticating a Medico Jet Stream | rebornpipes)

Further print advertisement evidence of the dating of Medico’s Jet Stream came from the listing of a print ad for sale on eBay:

(https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1hRAPvY4fMtJTxzjcvepnbBLF_Il5rKUXhr4WNu1ypIw/edit)

The final place I looked was on the pipephil.eu site for the logo of a Jet Stream. This matched the stampings on the Jet Stream in hand.

(Medico — Pipes: Logos & Markings (pipephil.eu))

The below photo is of my Medico Jet Stream.

From all of the above I can pretty assuredly state that this Medico Jet Stream was produced sometime between 1963-1971.

The pipe upon arrival

This pipe came to me as one of 12 pipes in a lot from Minneapolis Minnesota. The Jet Stream was not the target of this acquisition. It was a bonus. Below are some photos of the condition of the pipe prior to any work being done.

The little pipe was in very good condition. It had been smoked though not very heavily. There were some lava deposits on the rim and there was a light cake in the tobacco chamber. The filter within the stem showed obvious signs of use as did the tooth chatter on the stem. The finish on the pipe was a heavy clear coat which I hoped was not some “space age polymer”. This looked like it would be a relaxing evening restoration of a pipe that may share my birthday.

The Restoration

This restoration, like most, started with a clean denim piece as a work surface.

I started working with the stem. The aluminum tenon cleaned up quickly with cotton swabs and 99% isopropyl alcohol. Deeper in the stem whe airway changed to the plastic or nylon of the stem. Here the cleaning became a bit more difficult. The draft hole was 6 mm for a good deal of the length of the stem, the aluminum inner tube. This is to fit the 2 ¼ inch Medico filter length. Apologies for changing measuring units, there. There was a slight change in diameter where the draft hole changed from aluminum to plastic. This “step” seemed to have trapped and deposited smoking residues. The diameter was too large to be cleaned with a single pipe cleaner but a doubled over cleaner worked well.

The shank cleaned up very quickly. This indicated that the previous owner had not only smoked the pipe little but also used a filter regularly. The draft hole from the bowl to the shank was the typical diameter and was cleaned out with bristle pipe cleaners dipped in 99% isopropyl alcohol. I failed to photograph this.

Next I addressed the lava around the rim. The heat from smoking or from previous cleanings appeared to have removed some of the finish from the immediate rim. There also appeared to be some charring of the briar at the front rim area. I wetted the rim with saliva and scraped it with a sharp pocket knife.

Next I tried removing the old finish with 95% ethyl alcohol. The finish laughed at me and remained untouched. Hmm. The next assault was with acetone on a make-up pad. This met with success.

Several acetone soaked make-up pads and cold fingers later, the finish was removed. I will admit to using a little bit of 0000 steel wool dipped in acetone as well for a couple of spots where the finish coating had pooled.

Next came the reaming. This bowl is small in size and due to the PipNet having a broken #1 blade, I was forced to use the Scottie Stainless Steel Reaming Tool.

The Scottie performed well and cleared out the cake. I only had to scrape a minimal amount and sanded the chamber with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel and finish sanded with 320 sandpaper wrapped around a Sharpie marker. The chamber was taken down to bare briar and showed no signs of any damage.

Next I addressed a few of the fills that the pipe had received during manufacture. They were the pink wood fill that was used by many makers. These were hard and difficult to pick out.

In preparation for the sanding that comes with new fills I taped the stampings to protect them.

None of the replacement fills were very deep. I used brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) and briar dust to fill the pits. The fills were then sanded with a 400 sanding sponge.

With The new fills finished I taped over the “Jet” logo to keep it safe from my sanding. None of the tooth chatter was deep enough to require filling with black CA.

I wanted the pipe to remain intact for the sanding to preserve the tight contact joints on the stummel from being rounded by sanding. I sanded both the stem and stummel with the sequence of sanding sponges from 400-1500. The stummel and stem were wiped with a make-up pad dipped in alcohol between each sponge. Since this pipe had a nylon stem, I did not worry about it discoloring like vulcanite would have with alcohol wipes.

The sanding progressed through the 200-3500 sponges followed by alcohol wipes as above. The protective tape was removed with the completion of the 3000 sponge.

The final smoothing and polish came from using the micro-mesh pads in sequence from 4000-12000. Again wiping between pads with the alcohol moistened make-up pad.

I applied a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm to the stummel and allowed it to sit for 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes the balm was wiped away using the inside of an athletic sock.

The “Jet” logo had gotten noticeably lighter with all the micro-meshing. I decided to paint it with a white acrylic model paint.

Once the paint was dry I lightly buffed the surface with the 4000 micro-mesh pad. In a couple of places I used the fly tying bodkin to scrape unwanted white paint from places between the letters.

The final steps of this restoration were to apply several coats of carnauba wax with the buffer.

Overall I am very pleased with how well this little Jet Stream turned out. I am not a fan of the clear coat finish and was quite glad to see it gone. The briar grain, though not spectacular, is nice. In hindsight, I think a contrast stain might have been interesting. The nylon stem sanded and polished better than I had thought it would. The light weight of this pipe would make for a very comfortable clencher but the small bowl is not something I would prefer. The dimensions of this pipe are as follows:
- Length: 5.37 in./ 136.40 mm.
- Weight: 0.88 oz./ 25.00 g.
- Bowl Height: 1.22 in./ 30.99 mm.
- Chamber Depth: 1.04 in./ 26.42 mm.
- Chamber Diameter: 0.75 in./ 19.05 mm.
- Outside Diameter: 1.30 in./ 33.02 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

Below are some photos of the finished Medico Jet Stream.
A Millard Dublin Restoration

March 14th, 2024

Photographed and written by

John M. Young

The first time I saw a Millard pipe I thought, “Cool”. This would have been several years ago long before I started blogging about restorations. I had always liked researching the pipes I was working with. I figured they had to have been made after WWII due to the amount of aluminum in the mortise and tenon. In my searching I found Steve Laug’s blog about two Millard pipes that he had restored back in 2015. I was fascinated by his blog and restorations. This may have actually been one of the first times I had visited Steve’s blog rebornpipes.com.

The two above photos are my first Millard pipe. I loved the shape and how well it smoked.

I recently acquired another Millar pipe, the subject of this restoration. The Millard Dublin was not specifically the target of the bid and subsequent win, it was just a bonus. The lot came to me from Fort Lauderdale Florida. The Dublin shape has long been a favorite of mine and I was looking forward to the restoration. It however did have to wait in que for about a month for its turn at the workbench.

The Pipe

When the pip arrived it appeared to be in well used condition. Below are some photos of the Millard Dublin prior to any work being done.

This Dublin needed some work. It did not look like it had any serious issues, just a lot of small ones. The most egregious was the damage to the rear rim. There was the typical dirt and grime of an old pipe, lava build up on the rim, a substantial cake in the tobacco chamber, an oxidized stem and numerous dents and dings on the briar. All of these things indicated a pipe that had been carried and smoked a good deal by a previous owner. It also indicated a good smoking pipe.

A bit about Millard Pipes

Millard pipes were another brand that I refer to as coupon pipes. Back in the late 1940s through the 1960s many pipe tobacco brands would enclose a coupon or certificate within the pipe tobacco packaging. These coupons could be collected then mailed, usually with a small amount of cash, to the company in exchange for a new pipe. Kentucky Club was one brand of pipe tobacco that used this marketing technique. Kentucky Club was a part of the Penn Tobacco company. I did a series of 4 Penn Tobacco co. pipes earlier this year, they included the following which I will link to their respective names: Vox Pop, Broadcaster, Bruce Peters and Silver Mac Duff. I will defer to Steve Laug’s well explained history of Millard:

“When I came across the Millard – the Perfect Pipe coupon in the two boxes of Kentucky Club that I found I was fascinated with the look of the pipe. It reminded me of the Keyser Hygienic pipes that I had restored over the years. The stem that fit into the metal mortise shank insert and the tubes on the inside of the stem and the shank were similar. While the Keyser tubing in the shank looked identical the one in the stem was different. Keyser was directed downward while the Millard was two straight tubes that met in the mortise. They did not touch but the metal chamber became a condensing chamber, or as they call it an Action Trap, for the smoke and collected the moisture before it continued through the tube in the stem. I looked up the brand online and found the following advertisement postcard that shows the way the system works. I found that the stems were interchangeable between the shapes that the pipe came in. The straight stems could be easily transferred from pipe to pipe. In fact the pipe originally came with an extra or replacement stem. The pipe came in a sandblast and a smooth finish in six shapes – apple, Dublin, billiard, pear, pot and bent. It came in two sizes: medium or large. In the advertisement below you can see that the pipe cost $3. I also found that Mastercraft supplied the pipes through the coupon sales. Knowing a bit of history about the company I know that they did not make pipe so they were sourced from the original manufacturer.”

Used with permission of Steve Laug – personal communication.

(https://rebornpipes.com/2015/12/11/a-pair-of-millard-perfect-pipes-a-sandblast-apple-and-dublin/)

The Restoration

I started with a clean denim piece on the work surface. The stem of the Millard Dublin was very oxidized. I remembered my previous experience with the Millard Bent Billiard. It too had severe oxidation that I was not able to get rid of. Though that was my earlier days of restoring pipes.

I began with rubbing the surface of the stem with 0000 steel wool. I hoped to get rid of the outer layer of oxidized vulcanite and allow the Before and After Deoxidizing solution access to the underlying rubber. Even after the steel wool the brown was very evident.

I inserted a pipe cleaner into the stem to act as a hanger and submerged the stem into the Deoxidizing (deox, as I call it) solution. I figured that it would have to be in the solution for at least a couple of hours.

While I was waiting to forget the stem, I started reaming the stummel. I gathered the reaming gear; PipNet with #2 blades , Smokingpipes Low Country knife and the General triangular scraper on the plastic coated envelope.

The cake was hard and very brittle but succumbed to the PipNet without much trouble. Further scraping was done with the other two tools and the chamber was sanded with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel and 320 sandpaper wrapped around a Sharpie marker. The bare briar of the tobacco chamber was free of any damage and looked good.

Next was the scraping of the rim.The rim had an inward angled bevel that was covered in a layer of lava. This was scraped off with a sharp pocket knife with careful scraping and scrubbed with a scotchbrite pad dipped in 99% isopropyl alcohol.

With the rim mostly clean, the stummel was taken to the sink and scrubbed with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a medium stiff toothbrush. The stummel was rinsed with warm water, dried with a cotton dish towel and returned to the workbench. I then moistened a make-up pad with 99% isopropyl alcohol and wiped the stummel. Some discoloration

occurred to the pad indicating that some of the finish and original stain were being removed. Most of the discoloration came from the rim. I used a 1000 grit sanding sponge with the corner dipped in alcohol to lightly scrub the rim. I guess it was dirtier than I thought it was.

I do not like working on more than one pipe at a time. I will inevitably forget to do something to one while getting sidetracked on the other one. In this case I forgot two things, one was to document the shank cleaning and two, the stem in deox. It was about six hours from where I left off with the Millard Dublin and when I returned. I had forgotten the stem was in the deox and feared that it had been in for too long. I retrieved the stem and wiped the Before and After Deoxidizing solution from it. I ran a couple of pipe cleaners through the airway to make sure no solution remained. The airway was then cleaned with 99% isopropyl alcohol and bristle pipe cleaners on the inside and Soft Scrub on make-up pads on the outside.

The next task was picking out the old fill material. The manufacturers used a soft red tinted fill material that is not very becoming.

Ewwwe.

Next was the refilling of the pits, gouges, rim damage, etc… Since this would require sanding I taped the stamps with painters tape.

In order to show a step by step process for fills, I attempted to photograph each step. Some worked better than others but I think this may be helpful for those who haven’t done this many times. The things I use are briar dust mainly from the sandpaper when topping a stummel, brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue), Thin CA and a dental scraper. Oh, it’s also a good idea to wear nitrile gloves to keep the CA off your fingers. I usually forget this.

Below two pits are pictured.

I use the dental scraper to scoop up a little bit of the briar dust. The dust is placed onto the pit. I then use the back of the scraper to press the dust into the pit with a bit of pressure.

I then use the shaft of the dental scraper to brush off extra briar dust without knocking briar dust out of the pit.

I then use a fly tying bodkin (long needle) to dip into the Thin CA and get some onto the bodkin. The CA is then touched to the edge of the spot to fill. The CA soaks into the dust and bonds the dust to the edges of the pit. I got a little carried away with the application in the photo below and used a bit too much CA. That just means more sanding.

The CA is then filed smooth with a flat needle file (I file because I am a bit lazy. Filing means I don’t sand as much) and 400 sandpaper or sanding sponge.

There were several pits and scratches on this stummel which required filling. Below are some more. The CA fills are dark but they are not gross red and they sand very smooth.

Rebuilding the damaged rim used a similar technique just with more layers. The additional layers were needed to build up the damaged area to maintain the lines and shape of the pipe. I did not want to top this stummel. The damage was localized to the rear and not the whole rim.

I attempted to photograph step by step again with this rebuilding.

Below is a close up of the damaged rim.

First I laid a bead of brown CA on the damaged area.

Then I dipped the wet CA into the briar dust pushing the stummel into the dust with a bit of pressure.

Next, I filed the surface to fit the existing shape of the stummel.

The excess CA/briar dust fill was filed away. The surface needed additional material to fill the damage. Next two photos try to show this.

Another bead of CA was applied to the rim. This time I pinched briar dust between my index finger and thumb and pressed this pinch onto the rim. The next two photos show this pinched fill.

This pinched fill was then filed and smoothed with a 400 sanding sponge.

In the photo below, you can see the briar dust appears “dry” or light colored. This is because it has CA bonding it from the bottom and not bonding it throughout. I applied the Thin CA to this “dry” briar dust. The Thin CA soaked into it and bonded it all together.

Below you can see the darker colored briar dust fill. This is dust that is fully bonded together with CA.

This fill was then smoothed with a 400 sanding sponge.

In the photos below you can see that I have tried to rebuild the sharp edge where the rim meets the side of the bowl.

Now all these dark fills are kind of an eyesore. I thought maybe a contrast dye with black Fiebing’s Leather Dye sanded away would accentuate the grain and mask all the dark fills. I gathered the dying gear. The pipe cleaner used from the last dye job was still there. Recycle.

The stummel was held by the aluminum of the mortise, dyed black and flamed. The flaming burns off the alcohol base of the Fiebing’s and sets the dye into the briar.

The stummel was then wiped with a paper towel and returned to the workbench. Back at the bench I started lightly sanding the stummel with a 320 sanding sponge. The sponge was wiped frequently on the denim of the work surface to clean the black briar dust from the sponge.

For brevity I will not go into great detail about the sanding and micro-meshing of the pipe and stem. I’ll just say that they were sanded together using the sanding sponges in sequence from 600-3500. Between each sponge the stummel was wiped with a make-up pad wetted with alcohol. The stem was wiped off with a paper towel. The micro-meshing was done with 4000-12000 micro-mesh pads in sequence. The stummel wiping was the same as above. The stem wiping included a drop of Obsidian Oil rubbed with finger and wiped with a paper towel.

The final step was to use the buffer to apply several coats of carnauba wax to the pipe.

Overall I am quite pleased with this pipe. I wish the stem would have cleaned up better. After all the time in the deox, scrubbing with Soft Scrub, the sanding, etc… it still is not the black that I would like it to be. The fills did turn out well. The reconstruction of the back rim also looks good. The contrast stain did exactly what I wanted it to do and I think it looks nice. I have yet to smoke this Millard but if it is anything like the bent Millard it will prove to be a great smoking pipe. I do hope that you have found something here useful towards your restorations or the care of your pipes. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe. Thank you very much for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

Below are some photos of the finished Millard Dublin.
A Passatore 349 Restoration

March 12th, 2024
Photographed and written by

John M. Young

I have a Passatore here. Wait a minute, I am getting ahead of myself. Let me start with what I had in my hand. This pipe came to me from Greece as part of a 6 pipe estate lot. Previous blogs have discussed a Parker and a Savinelli that were part of the same lot. I linked their names to the respective blog posts if you are interested in reading about them. Here are some photos of the pipe upon its arrival before I knew what to even call this beauty.

I looked at the stampings on the pipe in hand and tried to decipher the weak stamp and ornate logo.

I was thinking the stamp looked like it started with a “J” and was first drawn towards Jeantet. All of the “J” Jeantet logos were very clearly a “J” and not ornate. I started scouring pipephil.eu logos. Not finding any matches with their single letter or circled letter logos was getting disheartening. I then clicked their “ornate spot” logo and found a match.

(http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/dots/rond-decore.html)

This was the entry on pipephil.eu which led me to the maker. Though the photo was not great it was definitely the same as the pipe in hand. This led me to Passatore.

What I was thinking was a “J” from the weak stamp and logo was a “P”. The 3 digit shape stamp, I assume it is a shape stamp, also was present on the Passatore in hand.

Passatore. That was a pipe maker that I had never heard of. Actually it was a word I wasn’t familiar with either. It sounded Italian so I started with that.

passatore (Italian)

Noun

passatore (masc.)
1. (sports) passer
2. ferryman
3. Guide
(https://www.wordsense.eu/passatore/)

That in itself is kind of fun, I think of it as, one’s pipe is a “guide” on how to live life – with relaxed and contemplative being key practices.

I struggled to find any substantial information about Passatore as a pipe brand. I reached out to Steve Laug, of rebornpipes.com, to see if he was familiar with the brand. He said that he had not restored one, which is saying something, but that he had received a Passatore box used to package a pipe sent to him from Budapest.

(Photo courtesy of Steve Laug)

Further internet searches led to a couple of European pipe shops that carried Passatore pipes:

https://www.haddockspipeshop.com/en/ This shop had 15 different Passatore models as well as an assortment of Passatore accessories like lighters, pipe tools and leather pouches.

https://www.german.us/en/pipe-holder/1006-passatore-splendida-oliva-ueipe-in-set-with-pipe-stand.html A second pipe shop that had a beautiful olive Passatore pipe with a unique pipe stand included.

(https://www.german.us/en/pipe-holder/1006-passatore-splendida-oliva-ueipe-in-set-with-pipe-stand.html)

All of my searching for historical information on Passatore was not leading me anywhere and I certainly do not need to go shopping for more pipes, even very pretty olive woods. I turned to restoring the Passatore that I had. Initial inspection revealed a pipe that needed some restoration to return it to glory or at least return it to proper working condition. The stem had come unglued to it’s brass accent bands and had deep tooth chatter on both surfaces, the rim was lava encrusted and probably darkened with char, the tobacco chamber had a respectable cake and there appeared to be two area where someone had attempted to glue cracks in the stummel. Both of these cracks looked superficial and not structural.

Cleaning the Stem

I started with a clean denim piece on the work surface. The parts of the stem made me

think of the old Wendy’s commercial “Parts is parts”. I’ll link to that for those wondering about my sanity or sense of humor. The first thing I did with the parts was to clean the existing glue from the surfaces to be reglued. This was done by softening the existing glue remnants with 95% ethyl alcohol and scraping with a sharp pocket knife. Removing the old glue was necessary to get a tight fit of the parts.

Before I reglued I wanted to clean the stem completely. It being apart made the cleaning much easier. Scraping with the brass rings and tenon would have been impossible.

With the stem cleaned I started scraping the calcium from the button end of the stem.

The calcium in the tooth dents was problematic until I used a brass brush. The brush dipped in alcohol made the process quick and easy.

Below you can see that the dent on the bottom side was deep.

The stem cleaned out quickly with alcohol dipped bristle pipe cleaners.

Ready for gluing. Black cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) was used to glue the stem parts back together.

Reaming the Tobacco Chamber

Once glued I turned my attention to the stummel while the CA was setting up. I gathered the reaming gear onto the plastic envelope I use as a reaming surface; the PipNet with #2 and #3 blades, Smokingpipes Low Country knife, General triangular scraper, the 220 sandpaper wrapped wood dowel and the 320 sandpaper wrapped Sharpie marker.

The PipNet with #2 blades enlarged the tobacco chamber by removing the first layers of cake. The cake was hard and brittle.

Subsequent reaming was done with the PipNet and #3 blades along with the knife and scraper. Once reaming was completed I sanded the interior with the 220 and 320 sandpapers to get to bare briar. This is when the first larger problem revealed itself. The chamber was charred with fairly deep burn damage. I looked like an over exuberant scraping had occurred and the charring occurred along the scraped surfaces.

I knew I would have to deal with the chamber interior in time. For now I continued with the exterior. The rim needed to be rid of the lava deposits. I did this with a sharp pocket knife and careful scraping.

Cleaning the Stummel

Next came the Murphy Oil Soap scrub. The Murphy’s was used undiluted and scrubbed with a medium bristle toothbrush. I should say the first application of Murphy’s was done as above. The second and third applications were also undiluted but with a more rigid nylon scrub brush. The stummel was very dirt and grime encrusted.

The stummel was rinsed with warm water and dried with a cotton dish towel.

I returned to the workbench and addressed the old crack repair glue. I used a pocket knife to carefully scrape the glue.

The same with the glue along the shank, careful scraping with a pocket knife.

Once the glue was scraped off I wiped the stummel off with a make-up pad dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol. The pad was removing some old finish or wax and stain.

There still remained a few shiny spots so I switched to acetone on a make-up pad and repeated the wipe. This eliminated the shiny spots and removed a bit more of whatever was left on the stummel.

I began sanding with the 320 sanding sponge. I wanted to remove the darkened briar from the rim without having to actually “top” it.. This worked, kind of. Oh, in the photo below you can see that tobacco chamber scrape burn scarring that I was trying to explain earlier.

The rim remained darkened with char. Below you can see the rim is lighter but still not what I wanted. I had only used oxalic acid one other time. That was a technique that I want to add to my toolkit. Practice makes perfect, eh?

My jar of oxalic acid from last week.

Oh yeah, it is supersaturated now. New crystals growing in the jar.

I applied the solution to the stummel with a cotton swab and let it sit for 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes I applied a second coat and let that sit for 30 minutes. There is another better look at the tobacco chamber scrape charring (below).

During the hour that I was waiting for the oxalic acid to do what it does, I started working on another pipe. I really do not like having two projects going at the same time if I am trying to photo-document them. Hopefully the next pipe will be in a future blog. It is a Millard Dublin. Well, I guess I just ruined that surprise…

An hour later I took the stummel to the sink and rinsed off any of the white oxalic acid crystals and residue. I made a baking soda solution and dipped the nylon scrub brush into the baking soda and scrubbed the stummel. I re-dipped the brush many times in an attempt to neutralize the oxalic acid with the baking soda.

I returned the stummel to the workbench and wiped the stummel with a make-up pad dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol. Below are photos where I tried to show the lightening of the briar by the oxalic acid and the tobacco chamber damage.

The detail for the chamber damage is evident but the lightening with oxalic acid remained a work in progress.

Repairing the Tobacco Chamber

The next task was to deal with the tobacco chamber damage. I have successfully used J.B. Weld epoxy to repair heat damage like this before. I have also successfully used sodium silicate also known as waterglass in similar repairs. It had been a long time since I had used the sodium silicate so, I opted for it.

I used a disposable pipet to pull 2 ml of sodium silicate from the stock bottle and placed it onto a plastic tray.

I then opened a capsule of activated charcoal and mixed ½ of the contents to the sodium silicate.

The mixture was stirred with the pipe spike on my pocket knife. Once mixed the consistency was that of room temperature butter. It would spread but not flow. The spike was used to apply the mixture to the interior of the chamber filling the grooves. I put on a nitrile glove and used my finger to work the mixture into the rough areas and smooth the interior surface.

The stummel was set aside to dry for 24 hours. This is not a magic number. That is just how long I waited to sand the chamber. I still worked on the pipe since the sodium silicate was not flowing and had set-up within 20 minutes.

Repairing the Stem

While the sodium silicate was drying I continued to work on the now dry stem. I have to say, this may be my best documented stem rebuilding yet. Still not perfect but pretty complete. This stem was acrylic not vulcanite so there was no oxidation to deal with. I sanded the area that I was going to work on to roughen the surface and aid the CA sticking to it. Then I applied drops of black CA to the dents. None of these dents were too deep so I thought only one application would be sufficient to fill them.

Next I use a CA drying accelerator to spritz the wet CA . I did not photograph that stem but here is the product that I use.

The accelerator dries the CA in seconds greatly speeding up this process. Next, I filed the drops smooth to the acrylic stem surface with a flat needle file and smooth with a 320 and/or 400 sanding sponge.

The stem was wiped with a paper towel very lightly moistened with alcohol. This removes the sanding dust. I applied a drop of fresh black CA and spread it evenly over a larger area. The larger area makes it easier to blend the fills and is less noticeable when finished.

The larger area is spritzed with accelerator and again filed then sanded.

Tadah!

Now to rebuild the button. This is where my photo documenting went to heck. I used the cheap transparent Scotch tape, not the good stuff. The satin finish 3M tape, the good stuff, starts to dissolve with this accelerator while the cheap stuff doesn’t. I wrap the tape immediately behind the button sealing off the newly repaired surface from more CA. I then apply a layer of CA to the button. I then flip the stem over so the CA hangs down like a drop of water hanging off your fingertip. While holding the stem upside down I spritz the CA with the accelerator. Then before the CA completely sets up, you have about 3-5 seconds, I flip the stem back over and cut the still soft CA with a sharp knife along the back side of the button. This cut goes down to the acrylic stem. The Scotch tape is removed along with the excess CA that is now hard. Leaving you with a straight edge that requires little sanding or shaping. The button is then shaped with a needle file and sandpaper.

If you missed any of those steps, I will do it again with the bottom. And less typing this time.

Application of black CA to the dent. This one was deeper so a couple of applications were applied. Spritz with accelerator.

Apply additional CA, because it was a deep dent. Spritz with accelerator.

File the CA smooth

File and sand smooth.

Apply CA to a larger area. Spritz with accelerator. File and sand smooth.

Tape with Scotch tape.

Apply a layer of CA to the button. Invert and spritz.

Before it hardens, cut along the edge of the button with a sharp knife.

Peel the tape off along with the cut-off CA.

Shape the button with a file and sandpaper. Tadah! Now you know my process.

Filling the flaws in the Stummel

This stummel needed only a few fills but two of them were big ones; the crack at the bowl-shank junction and the bottom of the shank were long. I used a fine sharp dental pick to get as much material out of the crack as I could. Next I applied a layer of Thin CA with a fly tying bodkin to the crack, the thin CA flowed readily though the crack. I then sanded the crack with a dust filled (AKA dirty)sanding sponge. THe dust from the sponges along with new dust generated by the sponge filled in the crack and combined with the thinCA to fill the crack. It still was visible as a CA Fill appears dark but it was a strong smooth surface.

The pits on the stummel were filled using briar dust pushed into the pit. Then a small drop of Thin CA was applied to the dust. The CA soaked into the dust and affixed it to the surrounding briar. The surface was then sanded smooth.

Contrast Staining the Stummel

I was not happy with the oxalic acid lightening of the briar. I think I need more patience. I will continue to practice. Below you can see the pipe sanded from the 400-1000 sanding sponge. It was ready for the next step on my impatience.

Rather than patience and practice, I chose to contrast stain the stummel with Black Fiebing’s Leather Dye. I gathered the dye materials: Fiebing’s black, a pipe cleaner to use as an applicator, a disposable lighter, and covered the work surface with paper towels.

Below the stummel has been dyed black and flamed. The flaming is just that, since the dye is an alcohol based dye, flaming it lights the stummel on fire burning off the alcohol. There is a pretty blue flame that goes out quickly but the heat helps the dye set to the briar. THe whole thing is pretty much dry immediately after the flaming.

Since I did not care to let the dye dry, since I was going to be removing it from the majority of the stummel. I did not wait for it to dry completely. I started sanding with a 320 sanding sponge to remove the outer surface that was just dyed. The dye penetrates the soft textured briar more deeply than the harder briar. By sanding the surface I removed the outermost layer of briar leaving some of the grain darker from dye than other grain. THis accentuates the grain and darkens the whole stummel slightly.

More sanding with the 400-1000 sanding sponges. Care was taken around and on the stamps to remove as little material as possible to retain as much of the stamp as possible.

Now I was back to where I was before I dyed the stummel and it was bedtime.

Final sanding and Micro-Meshing

The next day was spent typing up this monstrosity of a restoration. I am so looking forward to doing a couple easy ones after this and the preceding restore. Anyway, the sanding employed the 1500-3500 sanding sponges in sequence. Between each sponge the stummel and stem were wiped with an alcohol wetted make-up pad.

Next, I used the 4000-12000 micro-mesh pads in sequence. Between the pads the pipe was wiped with an alcohol wetted make-up pad.

The pipe then received a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm.

The balm was allowed to sit for 45 minutes then it was wiped with an inside out athletic sock.

I was finally getting close to finishing this project. I polished the stem with Before and After Fine Polish followed by Before and After Extra Fine. Each polish was hand rubbed using a soft cotton cloth.

The pipe was reassembled and taken to the buffer for several coats of carnauba wax applied with the flannel buffer wheel. There are stories of how Civil War surgeons were rated by how much blood they wore on their aprons. More blood equated to a better surgeon. If that holds true for pipe restorations then I must be a truly amazing pipe surgeon. I mean look at the denim piece on the work surface (AKA, my apron).

Overall I am darned glad this restoration is over, I mean I am happy with the way this pipe turned out. The gluing of the stem is secure and looks like nothing ever happened. The acrylic stem polished nicely. The contrast stain looks good and conceals the blemishes of the rim charring. The tobacco chamber repairs resulted in a smooth chamber that will receive a bowl coating of maple syrup and carbon powder in the morning. While the two large cracks are still obvious they are now smooth and have lost the Braille texture and appearance. This Passatore is a pleasure to hold and to clench. It is a super feeling little pipe. I am not sure what Passatore calls the shape 349 but whatever it is it is a great little shape in hand. I do hope that you not only survived the longest pipe restoration in the world but also can use something from this in the restorations or pipe care of your own. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. I thank you for sticking with this blog and reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

Below are some photos of the finished Passatore 349.

The interior looks rough but it feels smooth.

There is a slightly noticeable color difference between the black acrylic and black CA stem
A Savinelli Porto Cervo 677KS Salvage, I mean Restoration

March 9th, 2024

Photographed and written by

John M. Young

I have a few Savinelli pipes and they are all fine smokers. This poor beat-up Porto Cervo must be an absolutely wonderful smoking pipe. It had been smoked so much that I questioned if it was even salvageable. I wondered this more than once during this restoration, “Can I return this pipe to service?” That is why I left the “before” photo up there with the title. I didn’t know if I could restore it and you, dear reader, are perhaps wondering the same thing.

This pipe came from an estate lot which I won from Greece. The Parker from the previous blog was also in this lot. When I first looked I thought that the pipes looked challenging to restore and so far I have not been disappointed. Here are a couple of screenshots of the lot. There were some interesting shapes and makers

Challenging can be fun. Testing one’s abilities and skills is seldom routine and so far the restorations have tested my abilities and made me think of some unique workarounds to problems. I will try to keep this write-up short but it was a rather extensive operation.

First off , let me provide some history of Savinelli. As usual I employed pipedia.org and pipephil.eu for source information. The pipedia.org section of Savinelli is well written and very informative. I know I said I wanted to keep this brief but much of this is worthy of repeating especially the “origins” of the company in 1876 and the post-WWII company as we know it.

Early Origins

“1876 was a year of breakthroughs: Thomas Edison patented the mimeograph, Julius Wolff-Eastport canned sardines for the first time, Alexander Graham Bell made the first telephone call,

Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky completed Swan Lake, Melville Bissel patented the first carpet sweeper, Mark Twain published Tom Sawyer, and in Milan, Italy, Achille Savinelli opened one of the first shops exclusively focused on tobacco and smoking accessories.

That last item may seem relatively unimportant in the global scheme of advancements, but for those of us who love pipes, it was a monumental achievement, made even more difficult by the Italian government, which held a monopoly on tobacco. In addition, Achille was convinced that briar pipes represented the future of pipe smoking at a time when the market was dominated by clay and meerschaum. It may not have been obvious in 1876, but Achille Savinelli’s commitment to briar pipes would prove to be visionary.

He soon began designing his own pipes (different from the styling we associate with Savinelli today) and arranged their manufacture by local pipemakers in the Varese district of north-west Italy. The pipes became so popular that some were exhibited at the 1881 Esposizione Industriale Italiana (Italian Industrial Exposition)—the precursor to today’s Milan Fair, one of the largest trade fairs in the world.” (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Savinelli)

Post-WWII

“With his two best friends, Amleto Pomé and Mario Vettoruzzo, he assembled a team of fifteen employees to start a new business in the Varese region—the same area of northwest Italy in which his grandfather, Achille Sr., commissioned his own designs more than 60 years before.

Savinelli Pipes began production in 1948 and, although the pipes were of a superior quality and unique in their aesthetic, the brand wasn’t an immediate success. Few new brands are. It takes time for the public to catch on. Retailers were skeptical of placing Italian pipes alongside their best sellers from England or France, and customers, in turn, were hesitant to purchase a Savinelli over pipes by already established, foreign brands. Achille Jr. stood by his product, however; he knew it was only a matter of time before the world realized that these pipes were of a far superior quality, capable of competing with even the most well-established pipe manufacturers in the world. As it turns out, he was right. In less than a year, Savinelli pipes gained prestige in markets all across the world—heralded for their delicate balance of innovation and tradition, of form and function. Savinelli pipes were placed alongside the likes of Dunhill and Comoy’s in tobacconists from the United States to Europe, and, in time, this exposure modified Italy’s reputation; it was not only the premier exporter of briar, but now a premium source of fine briar pipes.” (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Savinelli)

Who doesn’t love a success story where hard work and producing a quality product pays off and builds a dynasty? A story for the soul. Anyway, the whole article is worth a read.

The line, Porto Cervo, refers to a seaside resort town on the island Sardinia (That’s the big island that looks as if the boot of Italy is kicking it towards France). This little port town with a resident population of only 421 is renowned as a hotspot for wealthy resort goers. As Tripadvisor claims, “Once an exclusive retreat for the crème de la crème of society, Porto Cervo is still one of the world’s most luxurious resorts, but thanks to the 2004 opening of an airport in nearby Olbia, you don’t have to own a megayacht to vacation here. You do, however, need to realize this is definitely not a backpack-and-Eurail Pass destination. Designer boutiques, luxury spas, fine restaurants and exclusive nightspots abound.” (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g194856-Porto_Cervo_Arzachena_Province_of_Olbia_Tempio_Sardinia-Vacations.html)

In other words a place for Robin Leach and Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous (TV Series 1984–1995).

The 677 KS shape is “A bent Billiard with a supple, Brandy-like taper toward the rim, Savinelli’s “677 KS” is a compact yet full-bodied take on the classic English shape. Per the Italian marque’s shaping conventions, Savinelli has elaborated on the standard design, adding mass to the base and transition with extra height and taper lent to the bowl, all paired to one of their signature triangular shanks.” according to Smokingpipes.com. That is a mouthful of a description. Also you will later see that the “extra height” is a bit less extra after the restoration. The three digit shape code for Savinelli pipes was established in the 1970s according to information from pipephil.eu. One more detail is the “KS” – this stands for King Size.

(Document: Savinelli shape chart — Pipes : Logos & Markings – (pipephil.eu))

So let’s take a look at what this Savinelli Porto Cervo 677 KS looked like upon arrival.

Now, I think you see why I called it a ~~salvage~~ rather than a restoration. This old girl had been through some rough treatment. Upon examination I thought, “can I save this one?”, several times. I decided that I could but that the shape of the stummel would have to be significantly altered. A close look at the front of the stummel below the rim showed an area that I initially thought was just very beaten up by dottle knocking, proved to have deep charing fractures. It looked as if the front of the pipe had been lit aflame then filed off in an attempt to hide the evidence of the crime. Then there was the condition of the stem – deep bite marks and calcium deposits reminiscent of limestone. Oh well, it ain’t gonna get done by talking about it.

A clean denim piece was added to the work surface and I was off and running. What to do first? I admit that the stummel had intimidated me, so I started with a more familiar task, the stem. I used a sharp pocket knife to scrape away the calcium deposits on the stem. There was no good way to get into the bite dents with the knife or with a dental pick so I used a brass brush dipped in a bit of 99% isopropyl alcohol. The results looked better.

The stem was then sanded with the 320 and 400 sanding sponges. I wanted to remove the oxidation and roughen up the surface to allow the black cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) a better surface to adhere to.

I placed small drops of the black CA into the dents on the top side of the stem. I figured this would take several smaller applications with filing and sanding in between applications. THe drops were spritzed with a CA drying accelerator then filed flat..

After filing came a little bit of sanding.

This led to another application of CA to fill depressions over a much larger area. The larger area allows the blending of fill. This application also received a spritz of accelerator.

More filing and sanding to smooth and blend the repair.

Notice that I had not addressed the button. I prefer to get the dents smoothed before I try to rebuild the button. This process was then repeated on the bottom of the stem. Initial small drops, accelerator, filing, sanding and repeat.

Below is application 3, now over a larger area.

I Threw this photo in to show that the CA has a much smoother texture before the accelerator is used. THe rapid drying makes the surface rough and more bumpy.

After filing and smoothing with 320 and 400 sanding sponges I was ready to start rebuilding the button. This button did not need very much material added. The previous owner fortunately was not interested in mauling both the button and the stem. I like the cheap shiny Scotch tape for this next technique. The more expensive matte finish 3M tape dissolves when exposed to the CA accelerator. I wrap the newly smoothed stem in a layer of tape right up against the button. This will keep the next application of CA off the previous applications.

I then add CA to the area I want to build-up. I immediately invert the step so the wet CA hangs down but doesn’t drip (If it drips then I was using too much CA, thin coats are easier to work with). While holding the stem upside down, I spritzed with the accelerator. Now for the part that you have to do fast you will have about 5 seconds to work with. Flip the stem back over and while the CA is still soft use a sharp knife to cut along the edge of the button. This will give you a nice straight flat edge that you will not have to spend a lot of time filing and sanding. Once the CA was set-up the tape was removed. The cut off piece of excess CA was stuck to the tape and removed with it. The edge was straight.

The button was shaped with a flat needle file and smoothed with sanding sponges.

The above was then done with the top side button. Once both the top and bottom side were filed and smoothed I applied a thin coating of Thin CA over an even larger area. I did this to allow the Thin CA to penetrate into any small seams between the CA fils and the vulcanite and to fill and fine depressions which I may have missed.

This was then spritzed with a CA drying accelerator and sanded. Below is the rebuilt stem prior to finishing sanding and micro-meshing.

I think that may have been the best step-by-step procedure that I’ve written. I hope you find it useful.

Next, I cleaned the interior of the stem using bristle pipe cleaners and 99% isopropyl alcohol.

Now onto the object of intimidation and dread – the stummel. Normally I will ream the tobacco chamber first. This time I wanted a more clear idea of what I was working with so I proceeded to scrub the stummel’s exterior. The scrubbing was done at the sink with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a medium bristle toothbrush.

A typical scrubbing uses one application of soap. This one used 3 and a stiffer nylon scrub brush in addition to the toothbrush. The stummel was rinsed with warm water and dried with a cotton dish towel. Hmm, I was still wondering if this pipe could be saved.

I returned to the workbench and started the reaming. I used a plastic envelope to catch the reaming residue and the PipNet with the #2 blades. The cake in the tobacco chamber was softened by the water but it was still quite hard. I had to stop several times to scrape

with the Smokingpipes Low Country knife and the General triangular scraper then proceed with the PipNet. I replaced the #2 blades with the #3 blades and further cleared the cake from the chamber. The #3 blades proved to be too small to reach across the chamber as more cake was removed. This led me to scraping with the knife and the triangular scraper. Eventually the cake was removed and the chamber was sanded using a wooden dowel wrapped in 220 sandpaper. I felt certain that the walls of the chamber had to be charred due to the amount of material I was removing but upon inspection with a flashlight I saw no evidence of charring.

I did not bother with trying to scrape the rim clean of lava. In order to reshape the stummel the rim was going to lose about ⅛ of an inch of briar so scraping became a mute point.

I took the stummel to the counter where I top pipes. Here a sheet of 220 sand paper is laid flat on the counter and used to sand during topping. I started the sanding and quickly wished that I had a belt of disk sander. I moved the stummel in a circular motion every few circles, I would rotate the stummel 90 degrees. I was trying to keep an even pressure on the entire rim. The back of the rim looked good but the front was still showing charred wood. I decided that the new shape of this stummel would have to have a forward cant. Additional pressure was put on the front of the stummel during the sanding. The result looked pretty good.

Now to address the reshaping of the front of the pipe. I used a piece of 80 grit emery cloth wrapped around a wood block to coarsely remove and reshape the stummel. The goal was to remove the char while retaining most of the character of the Savinelli shape. I apologize for not photo-documenting this stage. Once happy with the progress I used 220 sandpaper to smooth the stummel. Eventually I was back to using the 320 sanding sponge followed by the 400 sandi sponge. THe below photos show the pipe at this point.

I was now certain that the Savinelli Porto Cervo 677 KS could be saved. The question of: “But, how will it look?” remained.

When I would wipe the stummel with alcohol I would get the following dark color below the rim at the front. I did not like the dark color. I had read about work workers using oxalic acid to bleach wood. This was usually done to remove water or iron stains from wood. I bought some oxalic acid thinking that someday I’d try it. Hmm, does oxalic acid work on burned spots with briar? I asked that very question in a pipe restoration group on Facebook. THe response from several people was yes.

Preparing chemical solutions was something that I had years of experience with as a high school chemistry teacher. I figured that I’d just prepare a saturated oxalic acid solution. I cleaned out my induction kettle with vinegar and soap then rinsed it with distilled water. I washed out a glass jar and lid and rinsed them with distilled water also. I brought 300 ml of distilled water to boiling in the kettle. I poured 250 ml into the clean jar. I added 2

teaspoons of oxalic acid crystals. They dissolved immediately. Hmm, maybe I should have read a recipe? Na, this is bucket chemistry. I added another 2 teaspoons. Again totally dissolved. One more – didn’t completely dissolve. Wait a few minutes. Crystals remained at the bottom of the jar. We have a saturated solution that will become supersaturated as it cools.

I allowed the solution to cool to room temperature and took the solution down to the workbench. I applied a coat to the stummel using a cotton swab. The oxalic acid solution

was absorbed quickly by the briar. I applied a second coat. I had read to allow the oxalic acid 20-30 minutes to work on the wood. I waited for about 40 minutes. In the meantime I prepared a baking soda solution to neutralize the oxalic acid on the briar. 40 minutes later I was ready to rinse away the oxalic acid and scrub the stummel with the baking soda solution.

I don’t know if the oxalic acid lightened the charred area a noticeable amount. I guess I should have taken before and after photos.

I returned to the workbench and worked on reestablishing the inner rim bevel that the Porto Cervo had before I so rudely sanding it away. I used a 2 inch polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipe with a 2 inch PVC round end cap. The end cap was wrapped with 220 sandpaper. This gave me a uniform curved surface to reestablish the curve of the rim bevel. If you are interested in the real purpose of this tube, ask me in the comments.

With the Stummel reshaped and the rim beveled it was time to start sanding. I used painters tape to cover the stamps. I wanted to keep the stem and the stummel together for the sanding to avoid rounding any of the edges where joined from being rounded.

I used the 320-400 sanding sponges on the stummel only. The 600-1000 sanding sponges were used on both parts. In between sponges I wiped the stummel with an alcohol moistened make-up pad to remove the dust . I applied a drop of mineral oil with my fingertip to the stem and wiped that with a paper towel.

While wiping the stummel I couldn’t help focusing on the dark spot at the front of the pipe where the briar had been burnt. It still seemed too dark for my liking. I decided to give the stummel a contrast stain. I thought that maybe a black dye might penetrate into the softer grained areas giving them a darker appearance while I sanded the black dye off of the harder, more resistant grain. This would darken the pipe overall but would still show off the existing grain patterns.

I prepped the counter for dying. Actually for mitigating a dye spill if one occurred. I used an inverted plastic container as a work surface. This was topped with a couple of paper towels. The black Fiebing’s Leather dye, a disposable lighter, a folded pipe cleaner, a small medicine cup with 5 ml of 95% ethyl alcohol were gathered and the fishing bobber wrapped in duct tape. The bobber was pushed into the tobacco chamber giving me a handle. The pipe cleaner was the dye applicator. The lighter is to flame the dye once applied to the pipe.

I put on nitrile gloves and applied a single coating of the Fiebing’s Leather dye to the stummel. I flamed this with the lighter. This burns off the alcohol base of the dye and sets it into the briar.

After the stummel had been flamed I wiped the surface with a dry paper towel to remove any remaining dye. I was not concerned about the dye drying for a certain time as I was going to remove the majority of the dyed wood in short order.

I returned the stummel to the work bench and began sanding away the newly dyed briar from the surface of the stummel. I was very careful to avoid sanding the stamped areas.I wiped the sanding sponge off frequently of the denim work surface to keep the sponge clean. I used a barely wetted with alcohol make-up pad to wipe away the dyed briar dust and assess where I needed to sand in order to have a uniform color. Below is how the stummel looked after the black dye was sanded.

I was fairly pleased with how the black had accentuated the grain while masking the burned area.

The sanding continued as before with the 1500-3500 sanding sponges. I did not tape the stamps but I was careful to avoid them. I had to get close to avoid having a “CENSORED” box appearance around the stamps. As before, I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad between sponges.

It was at this point that I realized that I had completely forgotten to clean the shank airway. If you are a regular reader, you will probably be saying something like: “Forgot, nothing. You just didn’t want to do it.” Yeah, it’s not my favorite job. I did clean the shank, thank you very much. I started by pouring 3 ml of 95% ethyl alcohol into the bowl and letting it flow into the shank. I then used a nylon shank brush to scrub the airway with the alcohol. After a vigorous scrub, I poured the alcohol into a medicine cup to assess the progress. This process is repeated ad nauseam. After a few scrubs I would go back to the workbench and see if I could scrape some yuck out of the airway, scrub with a cotton swab and repeat the 3 ml alcohol scrub routine.

After what seemed like 4 hours of repeating the process the cotton swabs emerged clean. I did notice a cherry aromatic smell throughout this process. I had never had a pipe so heavily infused with cherry aromatic tobacco before. It wasn’t a bad smelling blend, just very cherry.

Next was the micro-meshing. Here I used the 4000-12000 micro-mesh pads in sequence on both the stem and stummel. Between each pad I wiped the stummel with an alcohol dipped make-up pad. The stem received a drop of Obsidian Oil rubbed in with my finger and wiped with a paper towel between pads.

I was in the home stretch, the end was in sight. All that remained was to polish the stem and apply some carnauba wax with the buffer. So, that’s what I did.

The polish was Before and After Fine Polish followed by Before and After Extra Fine Polish. Both were applied by finger and rubbed with a soft cotton cloth. The waxing was done with my low speed grinder converted to a buffer and carnauba wax.

Well, I wasn’t sure if this pipe would be salvageable, much less restorable. I am glad to report that I smoked it today and it was lovely. Remember when I said that it had a definite cherry aroma? Well I may be giving her a cotton ball alcohol treatment. I didn’t find it annoying but it certainly did alter my Lane BCA to a vanilla cherry. The pipe looks pretty darn good. I am sure that a Savinelli connoisseur will spot that it is not really a 677 KS any longer. I bet they would agree that the contrast stain turned out nicely. I worried about it being too dark for the brass and wood banding on the stem but I think they work well together. The stem rebuilding also was a success and polished equally as well as the waxed stummel. I do hope that you found something here useful in restoring or just caring for your own pipes. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe. I know I said I wanted to keep this brief and I have done anything but that. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

Now for the moment you have all been waiting for: Some photos of the finished Savinelli Porto Cervo 677 KS.
A Yello-Bole Billiard (1933-36) Restoration

March 7th, 2024
Photographed and written by

John M. Young

It is kind of an American tradition to love the underdog. Maybe it goes back to our founding when 13 little colonies took on the greatest empire of the time. Nothing personal, United Kingdom. I look at Yello-Bole pipes in a similar light. They kind of have the reputation of being third string benchwarmers to the “real” players of Kaywoodie. Sure they were a second, but I am a guy who loves leftovers from the night before meals. So I kind of have a soft spot in my heart for seconds.

This little Yello-Bole billiard caught my eye because of the stamp “Honey Cured Briar”. This is a bit more of a rarity than the usual “Cured with Real Honey”. According to pipedia.org, “Pipes from 1933-1936 they were stamped “Honey Cured Briar” (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Yello-Bole). That provides pretty finite dates for this old pipe. Let me show you what it looked like upon arrival.

Yello-Bole was started as a processor of briar that did not meet the quality standards for Kaywoodie pipes. I’ll allow pipedia.org to tell the story as a more reputable source than my failing memory.

“In 1932 Kaufmann Bros. & Bondy (KB&B), est. 1851, expanded their programm consisting of KB&B pipes, Reiss-Premier and Kaywoodie as the mainstay brand by introducing the Yello-Bole line. Yello- Bole was designed as an outlet for lower grade briar not used in Kaywoodie production.

At that time KB&B produced their brands in Union City and in West New York, both New Jersey. Deviating from that, Yello-Boles were manufactured by The New England Briar Pipe Company in Penacook, New Hampshire to use this KB&B subsidiary to capacity.1966 Add

As briar was hardly had during World War II, the KB&B Company embarked on a project of domestically grown briar wood, called Mission Briar or manzanita early in 1941. The Pacific Briarwood Company, a subsidiary founded for this purpose, began harvesting the burls growing on the slopes of the Santa Cruz Mountains of California. Though this wood is botanically the same as briar form the Mediterranean countries, the smoking characteristics were not quite as good and the project was abandoned after the war.

Was it for that reason? Advertising from the 1940’s pictures the Yello-Bole “Honey Girl”, who gently urges the pipe smoker to smoke the pipe with “a little honey in every bowl.” In fact, honey was an ingredient of the material used to coat the inside of the bowl. It was said to provide a faster, sweeter break-in of the pipe.

In 1952, 101 years after the Kaufmann brothers had opened a small pipe shop in the Bowery section of New York City, Kaufmann Bros. & Bondy Company with all subsidiaries was purchased by an unknown company strange to pipe industry. (At least, the new owner was economical because the KB&B managers had to leave their luxurious bureaus on 630 Fifth Avenue, New York – the Rockefeller Center – for new rooms in the factory on 6400 Broadway, West New York.) This interlude ended after only 3 years in March of 1955, when S. M. Frank & Co. bought Kaufmann Bros. & Bondy, The Kaywoodie Company, Reiss-Premier Corp., The New England Briar Pipe Co. and – of course – Yello-Bole.

From the time of S.M. Frank’s purchase in 1955 until 1972 Yello-Bole was run as a separate company, as division of the parent. Through this period, Yello-Bole, same as Kaywoodie, had it’s own officers, sales force and maintained the production facilities in West New York. These 17 years were probably the most glorious years in Yello-Bole’s history.” (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Yello-Bole).

“Tips for Dating Yello-Bole Pipes
- KBB stamped in the clover leaf indicates it was made in 1955 or earlier as they stopped this stamping after being acquired by S.M. Frank.
- Pipes from 1933-1936 they were stamped “Honey Cured Briar”
- Post 1936 pipes were stamped “Cured with Real Honey”
- Pipe stems stamped with the propeller logo were made in the 1930’s or 1940’s – no propellers were used after the 1940’s.
- Yello Bole used a 4 digit code stamped on the pipe in the 1930’s.
- Pipes with the Yello-Bole circle stamped on the shank it were made in the 1930’s, this stopped after 1939.
- Pipes stamped BRUYERE rather than BRIAR it was made in the 1930’s.”
(https://pipedia.org/wiki/Yello-Bole).

Using the above guidelines this pipe represents the 1st, 2nd and 5th bullet points:
1. KBB stamped in the clover leaf
2. “Honey Cured Briar”
3. 4 digit code
Other than the stampings it also had some of the hallmarks of an older pipe. The button for example was filed in a “not so modern” fashion and had a narrow rectangular draft hole. Overall the pipe was in good condition for a 90 year old pipe that I paid less than 5 dollars for. Heck, the shipping cost more than the pipe. In examining the old girl I could still see some of the yellow bowl coating in the tobacco chamber. The stem was very tight, actually “scary tight”. I rubbed the tenon with olive oil when I reassembled it for the before photos.

I figured that the restoration would be fairly simple. It needed a light reaming, airway cleaning, stinger removal and cleaning, oxidation removal from the stem, stummel sanding and fills, button rebuilding with cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue), briar refurbishing, stem polishing and a wax. That sounded like a relaxing evening.

I started out with a clean denim piece to protect the work surface. Even though this pipe looked pretty clean I knew the denim wouldn’t stay clean

for long. I wanted to get the stinger out of the stem so I could let it soak in alcohol and soften the tar lacquer (that is my new name for that version of yuck – tar lacquer). The darn thing was stuck. I tried wrapping it in fabric and gripping it with pliers. Tried wiggling, tried sweet talking and swearing but it wouldn’t budge. When all else fails, alcohol. I used to use that saying for more things than a stuck stinger.

With the stem occupied with the alcohol, I turned my attention to the stummel.

The reaming of the tobacco chamber was easy and uneventful. I probably even could have skipped it. After the reaming I sanded the chamber smooth, some of the original yellow bowl coating didn’t want to budge so I left it to remind me that it was a Yello-Bole and because it’s probably a lead based paint. Just kidding, the environmental control laws of the 1930’s are well known for their extensive product testing. Yeah, kidding again.

I didn’t think the shank airway could be too dirty since the pipe did not appear to have smoked very much. Cotton swabs dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol would clear out any tar lacquer and associated yuck. I have to admit being a bit surprised by the number of swabs it took to get the airway clean but clean it was.

I must have been feeling lazy because I did not give this stummel the usual Murphy’s Oil Soap scrubbing. I figured that I would just clean and remove the finish in one fell swoop. Using 95% ethyl alcohol on a make-up pad I started wiping the exterior of the stummel.

Now I remembered why I used Murphy’s. The first pad just removed the accumulated dirt and grime from 90 years of existence. The next pad did remove a little finnish but the alcohol was not having the desired effect of removing all of the finish.

Pad number three was enlisted with acetone. This one did what I wanted it to do. The acetone dissolved the finish readily.

A couple more for good measure and the stummel was ready for sanding.

I checked back on the stem. The stem retained it’s death grip on the stinger. Again, the pliers, fabric, sweet talk and swearing were employed with no result. I will be victorious, just not yet. I gave the stem a little bit of work with the flat needle file and 320 sanding sponge to smooth out the roughness around the button. How a pipe that appeared relatively little smoked could have a stem chewed up this badly is a mystery to me. Perhaps it had been smoked frequently and just well cleaned. That concept broke with my experience with pipes from this era but remained a possibility.

Once the worst of the oxidation had been removed by sanding, I started the rebuilding of the button. The dent above the button was filled first using thin applications of black CA, spritzing with CA drying accelerator, filing and sanding. The resulting area then received a second coat of black CA with the above speed drying and smoothing until it was filled.

The below photo shows the rebuilt area smoothed inside a yellow square.

The draft hole of this Yello-Bole was rectangular, nearly square. I thought about items to use to support the liquid CA prior to it setting-up with a CA accelerator. The cotton swabs I had been using had a plastic “stick portion. I thought I could square this off with a bit of force and make it work. I worked very well. The CA did not stick to the plastic and the size and shape fit with near perfection. The plastic was inserted into the airway, while I applied a drop of black CA to the chewed through section of the button. The wet CA was then inverted and held upside-down while I spritzed it with the CA drying accelerator.

Once the CA had set-up I continued adding additional thin layers of black CA followed by spritzing with the accelerator. Eventually the gap had been spanned with new material. This new material was shaped with a flat needle file and smoothed with a 400 sanding sponge.

Final shaping and smoothing were done until I was happy with the results. My reshaping did take away that “older look” and did make the stem look more modern. I have conflicting feelings about that. It is more comfortable and looks more finished but It lost that apparent “old pipe” look.

After the button was finally shaped I started cleaning the airway in the stem. This went quite smoothly using bristle pipe cleaners and 99% isopropyl alcohol.

For the sanding I wanted the two pieces together so as to not round the edges of the joint where the pieces join. I taped off the stampings; right, left and bottom. The sanding was done with a series of sanding sponges from 600-3500 grit. Between each sponge I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad moistened with 95% ethyl alcohol. The stem was rubbed with my finger dipped in mineral oil then wiped with a dry paper towel.

Next, I worked the pipe with the micro-mesh pads 4000-12000. I wiped the stummel as above but the stem received a drop of Obsidian Oil rubbed in with my finger and wiped with a paper towel.between pads.

The final stem polishing was done with Before and After Fine and Extra Fine Polish, respectively. Each polish was applied by fingertip and hand rubbed with a soft cotton cloth.

The entire pipe was coated with aBefore and After Restoration Balm and allowed to sit for 30 minutes.

Once 30 minutes were up, I used the inside of an athletic sock to wipe away the excess balm.

THe stinger was still stuck. I said that I would be victorious and I had some thought as to how that could come about. The first plan was to try to soak the stinger in boiling water. The thought was that the aluminum would heat up the surrounding tar lacquer, softening it so that I could remove the stinger with a little bit of force. Good idea, no results.

THe next idea was to apply heat in the form of flame. The hotter than boiling water temperature would soften the tar lacquer releasing it’s death grip on the stinger and allow me to remove it. As I was heating the stinger I was steam coming from the point where the stinger was inserted into the stem. Some water must have seeped into the stem and was being vaporized by the flame heating the aluminum stinger. I knew that if the water was vaporizing I was at the boiling point of water also the temperature that vulcanite begins to soften. I wrapped the stinger in a cotton handkerchief and pulled on the wrapped stinger with a pair of pliers. It came free. Victory! I then cleaned the stinger with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a nylon scrub brush. I ran a couple more alcohol dipped pipe cleaners through the stem, now unimpeded to get it completely cleaned also.

All that remained was to apply several coats of carnauba wax with the buffer to the whole pipe.

I love how this 90 year old Yello-Bole turned out. The wood grain is beautiful. Sure, it has some fills. I left the old olds and only fixed a couple of small scratches while I was sanding. It was a “second” after all. The stem was cleaned-up and polished nicely. The logo and stampings all remained intact and are more clearly legible now than they were under the grime and finish. I did get to smoke this pipe earlier and it smokes very well for being a smaller pipe. The walls are thick enough that they remained cool throughout the bowl of tobacco. This pipe was never intended to be a showcase item and I intend to use it as it was designed as a nice pipe to smoke on the way to town for errands when a 15-20 minute smoke is what is needed. I hope that you have found something here useful to your restorations or were entertained. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

Below are some photos of the finished Yello-Bole Billiard.
A Kaywoodie HandMade Saddle Stem Restoration

March 1st, 2024

Photographed and written by

John M. Young

I am starting to feel like I work at a lumber yard. This is the third Kaywoodie HandMade restored in the past couple of weeks. Good thing they are fun to work on. The first one had a push stem and no Kaywoodie logo on the stem. The second was a tapered stem with a white circle with a black 3 leaf clover logo. This one is all decked out with a saddle stem and the same white and black logo as the tapered stem. That logo was discontinued after 1955, according to pipedia.org and the shape first appeared in the 1947 catalog.

I’m just going to copy the historical information from the first HandMade restoration.. I am pretty sure that nothing historical has changed in the last few days.“Kaywoodie name first appearing in February of 1919.” (Kaywoodie History – Greywoodie LLC) The history of Kaywoodie pipes is fortunately well documented thus, allowing rather precise dates for a Kaywoodie collector to declare the provenance of their charges. The above pictured Kaywoodie is stamped HANDMADE over KAYWOODIE (left) and IMPORTED BRIAR (right). No shape number is present.

Using this information and referring to the Kaywoodie Collectors’ Guide listed on pipedia.org I found that these pipes were made during the following years:

“Handmade-Oversize-Carved 1947-1955 on and off” (https://pipedia.org/images/3/3d/Kaywoodie_Pipe_Names.pdf) and that

“The Oversize Kaywoodies were, as the name implies, “Giants”. Lowndes notes that these pipes were stamped simply, “Hand-Made”. The pipes were all roughly “bulldogish” in appearance and were available in the following styles and grades7 : • Hand-carved “Colossus” ($10) • Walnut finish, banded “Hercules” ($20) • Hand-carved “John Henry” ($10) • Virgin finish, specimen grain “Paul Bunyan” • ($25)Virgin finish, banded specimen grain “Goliath” • ($25)Walnut finish “Atlas” • ($20)Hand-carved, Meerschaum-Inlaid “Samson” ($15)” (Kaywoodie Collector’s Guide – p10.pdf)

Looking into the stampings, I went to piphil.eu for confirmation. ThereI was able to find an exact match of this pipe’s stampings.

(Kaywoodie series from L to Z — Pipes : Logos & Markings (pipephil.eu))

Well, that was easy. This large Kaywoodie Hand Made, though not very “bulldogish” was most likely made between 1947 and 1955 at the West New York, New Jersey factory. If you would like to see the 1947 Kaywoodie catalog here is a link: Kaywoodie_1947.pdf (pipedia.org). It is a fascinating read with great old marketing photos and illustrations. Just out of curiosity I wondered what $10 in 1947 was equivalent to today. According to a bis.gov inflation calculator it is $131.09 (Using Dec. 1947 and Dec. 2023)(CPI Inflation Calculator (bls.gov)). I highly recommend reading the above links for further Kaywoodie history.

This Kaywoodie HandMade saddle stem came from Las Vegas Nevada to southeast Nebraska. All three Kaywoodie HandMades were from the same seller. The first one bought on a whim the second two were negotiated for. I will link the first two restorations for you, if you are interested in reading about them: Hand Made 1 and HandMade 2. This third pipe was stamped HANDMADE over KAYWOODIE on the left shank and IMPORTED BRIAR on the right. No stampings were on the bottom. Below are photos of how the pipe appeared upon arrival.

This restoration began like most others with a fresh clean denim piece for the work surface. I should show the final version of the denim, I’ll probably forget but it’s worth a shot.

Since this stem was badly oxidized I decided to give it a several hour long soaking in the Before and After Deoxidizing Solution. I first sanded the stem with a 400 grit sanding sponge and cleaned out the interior with several alcohol dipped bristle pipe cleaners. The final pipe cleaner You see in the photo above, inserted into the stinger.

The stem was too long to hang in the solution. I ended up using a wood sanding block to tilt the jar of Deoxidizing solution (deox, as I like to call it).

It wasn’t perfect but I was certain that it would work. At this point I actually went upstairs to type up the restoration of the second Kaywoodie HandMade. Oh, this is confusing. About 4 hours later, I returned to the deox jar to retrieve the stem. After allowing most of the excess solution to drip off the stem, I like to use a coarse cotton shop rag to vigorously rub off the remaining solution.

The stem looked much better. You can see the black has returned but the surface was rough and pitted.

I used Soft Scrub on make-up pads to rub off the remaining oxidized vulcanite.

After the Soft Scrub I oiled the stem with a coating of mineral oil and allowed it to soak up the oil while I started work on the stummel.

Looking back at my photos I apparently neglected to photograph the reaming of this HandMade. Don’t worry, you are not missing much. This pipe had been smoked very little as you will see when I describe the shank cleaning. The reaming was very quick and uneventful. I used the PipNet with the #3 blades to barely mess up my plastic drop surface. The scraper and knife were not used and the tobacco chamber was sanded with 220 sandpaper on a wood dowel followed by 320 sandpaper wrapped around a Sharpie marker. The most interesting part was that there was a shallow groove inside the chamber that ran along the left side. I remembered that the second Kaywoodie HandMade also had a groove in it’s chamber. Upon looking very closely at both with a bright flashlight I saw what appeared to be a thin crack in both chambers. It did not go from the top to the bottom; rather it was about ½ to ¾ inches long in the center of the chamber on both pipes. It almost looked like it was a crack from improper drying or the chamber was bored out while the wood was not completely dried. I then remembered that both of these pipes had come from Las Vegas Nevada, a place not known for their humidity. Perhaps years of storage in the desert had not been good for the pipes. Either way I thought it would be best to mix up some J.B. Weld and fill the crack from within the chamber. Allow the epoxy to set and sand it smooth with the chamber surface. I thought that I would come back to do that step with both pipes when I was finished with the restoration.

I took the stummel to the sink. There I scrubbed the stummel with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap and a medium bristle toothbrush. The years of dirt and grime were evident in the lather. The stummel was rinsed in warm water and dried with a cotton dish towel.

When finished drying I poured 5 ml of 95% ethyl alcohol into the tobacco chamber and allowed it to flow into the shank. Without pouring the alcohol out I used a nylon shank brush to scrub the airway within the shank with the alcohol. This alcohol was poured into a medicine cup. The color indicated the extent of the tar accumulation in the airway.

THe very light color of the alcohol led me to believe the shank was relatively clean. A few alcohol dipped cotton swabs confirmed this.

With the internals cleaned out I returned to the exterior of the stummel. There seemed to be some yuck (the technical term for unwanted debris) in the grooves of the carvings. I wetted a make-up pad with 95% ethyl alcohol and wiped-down the exterior of the stummel. Very little color came off.

I then used a stiff nylon bristle brush dipped in the alcohol to scrub the carvings. Again I wetted a make-up pad and wiped the surface. This time the grooves looked deyuckified and it showed on the make-up pad.

The rim looked very clean after the alcohol and nylon brush scrubbing. Although it did show a bit of charring around the inside edge of the rim.

Now to deal with that charring. I used a wood sphere with a piece of 220 sandpaper. The sphere provided an even angle for a bevel and erased the charred briar. THe bevel was then sanded smooth with the sanding sponges by using the 400, 1000, 1500 and 2500 sponges in sequence.

The stummel required no real sanding other than a light buff with the previously mentioned sanding sponges. I wiped the stummel off with an alcohol dampened make-up pad and let it dry. The stummel was then coated with Before and After Restoration Balm and allowed to sit overnight.

In the morning the Restoration Balm was hand buffed from the stummel using the inside of an athletic sock. The terrycloth of the sock worked excess balm from the rustications of the carvings and left a very pretty shine on the stummel.

The stummel needed an equally attractive stem, so back to work. I wiped the excess mineral oil from the stem and began sanding with the series of sponges – 1000-3500. Between each sponge I would dip my finger in the mineral oil, rub the stem and wipe it dry with a paper towel. I would also wipe the sponge off on the denim to keep the sponges kind of clean.

After the sanding I started to micro-mesh the stem. Here I used the 4000-12000 micro-mesh pads in sequence. Between each pad I applied a drop of Obsidian Oil. The oil was rubbed in with my finger and wiped away with a paper towel.

The final steps in polishing the stem were done with Before and After Fine and Extra Fine Polish. The polish was applied by finger tip and hand rubbed with a soft cotton rag. Fine Polish followed by the Extra Fine Polish.

The final touch was the application of several coats of carnauba wax with the buffer. I tried to only apply the wax to the high area but gave up on that. I used the edges of the buffing wheel to work the wax into the carvings. When I was finished I replaced the waxing wheel with a clean flannel wheel. I used this wheel without any wax and used the corner edge of the wheel to get into the carving grooves. My thought was to melt and absorb as much of the wax from the grooves as possible while still leaving a thin coating to protect the briar. It looked good.

Overall I was very pleased at how well this Kaywoodie turned out. These were fun pipes to work on and their size makes you feel like you have accomplished a real feat. The briar cleaned up beautifully and the stem again shines like new vulcanite should. As for the dimensions of this pipe, as I said it is large, the dimensions are as follows:

Weight: 3.12 ounce/ 88.45 g.

Length: 6.42 in./ 163.07 mm.

Bowl Height: 2.18 in./ 55.37 mm.

Chamber Depth: 1.85 in./ 46.99 mm.

Chamber Diameter: 0.84 in./ 21.34 mm.

Outside Dimension (side-side): 1.60 in./ 40.64 mm.

Outside Dimension (front-back): 1.91 in./ 48.51 mm.

These are not pipes that you can clench while raking leaves or shoveling snow. This pipe demands you attention. I am sure the reward for such demands is a very nice cool smoke. I do hope that you have found this to be useful and entertaining. If you enjoy this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe. I thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

Below are some photos of the Kaywoodie HandMade Saddle Stem.

Well, I’ll be darned. I didn’t forget.
A Kaywoodie HandMade tapered stem Restoration, dé·jà vu

February 28th, 2024

Photographed and written by

John M. Young

I know what you are thinking: “Dang Young, you must be getting old and didn’t realize that you already posted that restoration.” And I reply: “Hah, this is a different one. This one has a screw-in tenon and a pre-1955 logo.” You are correct though, I am getting old. I came across two more of these Kaywoodie Hand Mades the other day and settled on a price with the seller. This one has a lovely tapered stem while the other one has a saddle stem. These pipes make me think of the word “lumber” when I handle them. They are large. Both over 2.5 ounces (71 g). Not clenchers but, I am sure they will be cool smokers.

I am going to use the historical information from the previous Kaywoodie HandMade restoration. I linked that blog as well, for those who would like to read it.

“Kaywoodie name first appearing in February of 1919.” (Kaywoodie History – Greywoodie LLC) The history of Kaywoodie pipes is fortunately well documented thus, allowing rather precise dates for a Kaywoodie collector to declare the provenance of their charges. The above pictured Kaywoodie is stamped HANDMADE over KAYWOODIE (left) and IMPORTED BRIAR (right). No shape number is present.

Using this information and referring to the Kaywoodie Collectors’ Guide listed on pipedia.org I found that these pipes were made during the following years:

“Handmade-Oversize-Carved 1947-1955 on and off” (https://pipedia.org/images/3/3d/Kaywoodie_Pipe_Names.pdf) and that

“The Oversize Kaywoodies were, as the name implies, “Giants”. Lowndes notes that these pipes were stamped simply, “Hand-Made”. The pipes were all roughly “bulldogish” in appearance and were available in the following styles and grades7 : • Hand-carved “Colossus” ($10) • Walnut finish, banded “Hercules” ($20) • Hand-carved “John Henry” ($10) • Virgin finish, specimen grain “Paul Bunyan” • ($25)Virgin finish, banded specimen grain “Goliath” • ($25)Walnut finish “Atlas” • ($20)Hand-carved, Meerschaum-Inlaid “Samson” ($15)” (Kaywoodie Collector’s Guide – p10.pdf)

Looking into the stampings, I went to piphil.eu for confirmation. ThereI was able to find an exact match of this pipe’s stampings.

(Kaywoodie series from L to Z — Pipes : Logos & Markings (pipephil.eu))

Well, that was easy. This large Kaywoodie Hand Made, though not very “bulldogish” was most likely made between 1947 and 1955 at the West New York, New Jersey factory. If you would like to see the 1947 Kaywoodie catalog here is a link: Kaywoodie_1947.pdf (pipedia.org). It is a fascinating read with great old marketing photos and illustrations. Just out of curiosity I wondered what $10 in 1947 was equivalent to today. According to a bis.gov inflation calculator it is $131.09 (Using Dec. 1947 and Dec. 2023)(CPI Inflation Calculator (bls.gov)). I highly recommend reading the above links for further Kaywoodie history.

With that perfect example of a generation-X lazy re-use of a previous blog history it is time to get to the restoration. Here is what the Kaywoodie HandMade taper stem (that is what I’m calling it) looked like upon arrival.

This looked like a normal restoration. The main tasks to be completed should be: Reaming the tobacco chamber, cleaning out the airway, cleaning and removing any finish from the stummel, removing the oxidation, and restoration of the stem, wax and polish. It always sounds easier than it actually turns out to be but I am an optimist.

I started with a clean denim piece for the work surface and started working on the stem.

I began with the airway within the stem. I am not a big fan of stingers especially, stingers that don’t come apart. At least with those you can slide out the funky shaped end-piece and run a pipe cleaner through a fairly open hole. Kaywoodies on the other hand, not so much. I was able to get a bristle pipe cleaner dipped in alcohol from the button end down into the stem. Fortunately the stem was not too dirty. Thank you, previous owner. A couple pipe cleaners later and the stem was clean.

Nex, I rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool then dipped the steel wool into 99% isopropyl alcohol and cleaned up the stinger. After the steel wool I thought that I would not need to give this stem a soak in the Before and After Deoxidizing solution.

The stinger cleaned up nicely and the oxidation on the stem looked like all it needed was Soft Scrub on a make-up pad. Well, several applications of Soft Scrub, that is.

After a mineral oil rub the stem was looking much better. I set it aside to soak-in some oil and started to work on the stummel.

I gathered the reaming crew: The pipNet with the #2 and #3 bladed, Smokingpipes Low Country knife, General triangular scraper, 220 sandpaper wrapped wood dowel and the 320 sandpaper wrapped Sharpie marker.

With the crew all ready I started with the PipNet with #2 blades attached. It was far smaller than the tobacco chamber but working in steps is easier that taking a large step.

It reminded me of the old saying, “How do you eat an elephant?”. “One bite at a time.” The #3 blades cleaned up the chamber most of the way and required little scraping with the knife or scraper.

The chamber was sanded to bare briar with the 220 sandpaper and finished with the 320 sandpaper. There was a strange groove cut into the chamber from nearly the top to the bottom. The groove was about 1-2 mm wide and not a mm deep. I tried to sand it smooth without getting the chamber out of round.

I normally would have addressed the rim at this time but the rim had fine rustications and a smooth surface immediately out from the chamber. I did not want to change the rustication so opted to try to remove the lava with the Murphy’s Oil Soap scrubbing. I did want to get some idea for how fouled the airway of the shank was. I moistened several cotton swabs with alcohol and tried scrubbing the shank. They came back very darkly stained with tar and yuck (the technical term for black tar like smoking residue). That told me that the shank cleaning would be a difficult one. The Kaywoodie mortise being aluminum meant that it was difficult to do any scraping of the airway with a dental scraper.

I took the stummel to the sink for scrubbing. At the sink I used Murphy’s Oil Soap undiluted and scrubbed the stummel with a medium bristle toothbrush. A surprising amount of old dirt and grime came off in the scrub.

The rim was scrubbed with the toothbrush initially then I graduated up to a brass brush to remove the lava without damaging the rustication. The stummel was rinsed with warm water and dried with a cotton dish towel. I then poured about 5 ml of 95% ethyl alcohol into the bowl. I let this flow into the shank without pouring it out. I then scrubbed the airway using a nylon shank brush allowing the alcohol to soften and dissolve the accumulated yuck. This was then poured into a medicine cup. The results were very dark and indicated that the shank was full of yuck.

I returned to the workbench to do what scraping I could with the dental scraper. Anything I could get out with the scraper was worth several alcohol/shank brush scrubs.

The scraping alternated with alcohol and nylon brush scrubbing. An abbreviation that comes to mind is TMTC, meaning too many to count. TMTC later the cotton swabs were finally yielding less and less yuck.

With the shank finally cleaned out I returned my attention to the exterior of the stummel. I wiped the exterior with a make-up pad wetted with 95% ethyl alcohol. The briar did not appear to have been stained and not finished. I was hoping that it was just wax and grime that would be removed with the pad.

The alcohol pad came back with what looked like some sort of finish or wax, mostly from the carved areas. I decided to use an alcohol dipped brass brush to scrub the carved areas more thoroughly.

This resulted in removing much more, whatever it was that was, being removed. The stummel looked much cleaner. The only sanding that I did to the stummel was a slight beveling of the rim around the tobacco chamber to eliminate some of the charred wood from lighting the pipe. Since there wasn’t really anything to sand or micro-mesh on the stummel I gave it a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm worked into the rustications with a baby toothbrush and set it aside.

The stem had soaked up a bit of the mineral oil. I started with the 400 and 600 sanding sponges. I wanted to see if the tooth dents were bad enough to fill or if they could just be sanded.

The dents on top were minimal but the both would require filling with black cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue). I placed a small drop of the black CA on the dent filling it. I then spritzed the drop with a CA drying accelerator. This dries the CA almost immediately. I then filed the drop smooth. A second layer of CA was then spread over the entire area from the button back up the stem for about 1/2 inch (1 cm).

This was then smoothed with a flat needle file, followed by the 400 and 600 sanding sponges. The wider area helps blend the filled dents better than just having CA spots on the vulcanite.

I admit to doing a poor job at photo-documenting the process with step by step photos of both top and bottom. The results look good though. Next was sanding the stem with the full series of sanding sponges from 1000-3500. Between each sponge I applied a finger dipped in mineral oil to the stem then wiped it off with a paper towel.

After the sanding sponges I used micro-mesh pads 4000-12000 to further polish the stem. Between each of these pads I applied a drop of Obsidian Oil, rubbed it in with a finger and wiped the stem off with a paper towel.

The final polishing was done with Before and After Fine followed by their Extra Fine Polishes. These were applied with a finger and rubbed with a soft cotton cloth.

I had allowed the Before and After Restoration Balm to dry overnight on the stummel. It had formed a slightly tacky textured finish that I hand buffed off with the inside of an athletic sock. I do love the way the terry-cloth of a sock removes the excess balm.

The pipe was reassembled and taken to the buff for several coats of carnauba wax. I tried to apply very light coats of wax to the rusticated carved surfaces using the edges of the buffing wheel to work the wax into the carvings. It seemed to work well. After the application of was I replaced the waxing wheel with a clean buffing wheel and went over the carving again hoping to draw out excess wax with the clean buffing flannel. The waxing wheel was placed back on and I applied a final coating of carnaube to the smooth surfaces carefully avoiding the carvings.

Overall this Kaywoodie HandMade tapered stem turned out very well. It feels very good, substantial but good in hand. My fingers seem to line up nicely with the carvings making it quite comfortable to hold. This is probably good because clenching this pipe would be difficult with it’s 2.52 ounce weight. The other dimensions are as follows:

Length: 6.16 in./

Bowl Height: 2.20 in./ 156.46 mm

Chamber Depth: 1.96 in./ 49.78 mm

Chamber Diameter: 0.85 in./ 21.59 mm

Outside Dimension (side-side): 1.67 in./ 42.42 mm

Outside Dimension (front-back): 1.89 in./ 48.01 mm

Yes, she is a big girl, some might even refer to this pipe as lumber. Were I a betting man, I would wager that she smokes very coolly. I do hope that you have found this to be useful and entertaining. If you enjoy this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe. I thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

Below are some of the finished photos of the Kaywoodie HandMade taper stem.