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Tag: Shank crack

A Celebra billiard NOS Restoration

January 24th, 2024
Written and photographed by

John M. Young

Here we go again, trying to find the maker of an obscure brand of pipe. In this case a CELEBRA FOREIGN MADE. The name results in no information with a Google search nor with pipedia.org. My guess is that the stamped name CELEBRA is from the Italian “celebra” = celebration in English. To make matters more confusing I am not even sure where this pipe came from or when it arrived. I am sure that it was part of an estate lot probably from early 2022 or before.

The pipe in question is a new old stock (NOS) unsmoked billiard. It is medium sized and sports a red plastic dot inlay into the left side of the stem. There is no country of origin stamp other than the FOREIGN MADE below CELEBRA. The pipe is stained a medium brown and had a clear coat of some kind. There were a few small fills that appear to by filled with the clear coat. The stummel and stem were not sanded to a very high level of polish as can be seen in the before photos. The most striking issue with the pipe is that has a shank crack, unusual for an unused pipe. Below are photos of the Celebra upon emerging from the storage box.

The above photo shows the crack. I had attempted to sand the end of the shank to better show the crack.

As stated earlier searches for “Celebra” returned no results. There was another Celebra listed on eBay which I will include here:

The photos on eBay were not great. You can see the same stamp with the “JUNIOR” added next to CELEBRA and a dot, of indeterminate color, on the stem. So, there were apparently at least two of these pipes made. Also the seller is offering free international shipping from Portugal, that has to be worth at least $15, making this a $12 pipe on the estate market.

The question remains, who made this pipe? I went to pipehil.eu to look for similar dots on stems. Here I saw a few potential leads. I have listed them below with a “Verdict” from my limited knowledge/conjecture.

Suspect #1

(One red dot — Pipes: Logos & Markings (pipephil.eu))

“This is the production Brand of Hans Jonny “Former” Nielsen. When the U. S. pipe demand for quality handmade “freehand” pipes diminished, W.Ø. Larsen in Copenhagen sent their several workshop pipemakers home to work out of their house. Former who was the Larsen foreman at the time, eventually went to Germany and started the Bentley line of production pipes made on frasing machines, several at a time. Some years ago he returned to Denmark with this type of equipment and continues to make these production pipes in his current workshop in between making his famous handmade pipes.

Bentley could also be a name of a line of Kaywoodie seconds.

4/17/2014
- Former went to Kleinlutzel, Switzerland (just over the border from Germany) and took over a pipe fabrication in the employ of Herman Lane, making the Bentley pipes (circa 1986).”
(Bentley – Pipedia)

Verdict: Unlikely. Although the Kaywoodie association is interesting, I could find no other information supporting the Kaywoodie connection.

Suspect #2

(One red dot — Pipes: Logos & Markings (pipephil.eu))

“Portland Pipe Company was an English pipe maker, and appears to have started in the 1930’s, and went out of business in 1962. It’s though they had ties to Barling pipes from the 1930’s. They might have been a sub-brand or “second” which was separate from, but fully owned by Barling’s all along. It also thought that after Portland closed down, and during Barling’s corporate era (BB&S), Barling picked up some of the Portland brand (Londoner, Cragmoor and Portland) and made them for a while.

WILCZAK & COLWELL in their book “Who Made That Pipe?” acknowledge the brand as from England, though some have been made in Italy as well (see Pipephil.eu).

The Brand John Peel is a pipe which has the stamping: JOHN PEEL, A PORTLAND PIPE, MADE WHOLLY IN ENGLAND

I have a model with is also stamped SPECIAL, it’s a stack design with shape number 801.

This pipe might have been made either by Portland or Barling. “

(Portland Pipe Co. – Pipedia)

Verdict: Potential source. I especially like the “some have been made in Italy as well” line. Does not support the CELEBRA stamp but is the only maker using the term FOREIGN.

Suspect #3

(One red dot — Pipes: Logos & Markings (pipephil.eu))

“Ludwig Stern, a successful pipe manufacturer since 1893 and closing around 1960, reorganized his company along with his brother Hugo Stern, opening a factory in 1911. They named the company L&H Stern Smoking Pipes & Holders. The newly formed company was moved into a six story building on the corner of Pearl and Waters street Brooklyn, NY.”

(LHS – Pipedia)

Verdict: Potential, though unlikely. LHS is typically good about including their logo on pipes that they make.

Suspect #4

(One red dot — Pipes: Logos & Markings (pipephil.eu))

“The Reiss-Premier Corporation was founded on June 22, 1940 in New York as the successor to the Reiss-Premier Pipe Company of Chicago. That company was in turn founded in Chicago, Illinois in 1922 by Jacob D. Burger, again as a successor company to two former pipemaking concerns, Reiss Brothers of Chicago and Premier Briar Pipe Company. The company was located in the south half of the fifth floor at 32 to 40 South Clinton Street in Chicago. Four years later, in 1926 Reiss-Premier Pipe Co. was issued a trademark for the term “Drinkless”, made famous on so many Kaywoodie pipes, and for which they used the slogan “You can’t get a drink from a drinkless pipe”.

In August of 1926, Reiss-Premier Pipe Co. purchased Kaufmann Bros. & Bondy and a year later the Kaywoodie pipes began to sport the Drinkless stinger. By 1928 Reiss-Premier had moved their production to Union City, New Jersey, and in December of that year were granted a patent for a cigarette and cigar holder. The following month the company moved again, purchasing the factory building of Paul G. Mehlin & Sons, piano manufacturers and taking over a part of that four story building.

After Reiss-Premier Pipe Co. became Reiss-Premier Corporation they continued to innovate, and in 1947 trademarked the “Synchro Stem” system used on decades of Kaywoodie pipes.

The Reiss-Premier Corporation was purchased in March of 1955 by S.M. Frank but remains an active corporation in the state of New York.”

(Reiss-Premier Co. – Pipedia)

Verdict: Potential. These guys made kajillions of pipes under many names.

Suspect #5

(One red dot — Pipes: Logos & Markings (pipephil.eu))

“Wally Frank, Ltd. was one of America’s oldest and most respected names in pipes and tobaccos, beginning in the early 1930’s. Wally Frank operated a chain of tobacco stores in New York City (the flagship store was in Lexington Avenue) and had a vast catalog business for pipes and pipe tobaccos. Their numerous private-label pipes were made by many makers, including Charatan, Sasieni, Weber, and many others. Wally Frank, Ltd. also owned the Pioneer brand of meerschaum pipes, made from both Turkish and African meerschaum. In addition to importing pipes, he had many pipes made in his own name and also employed pipemakers like Peter Stokkebye, Svend Bang, and Ed Burak (who later became the owner of Connoisseur). As a result, each Wally Frank pipe must be individually evaluated on its own merit.

In 1952, Wally Frank was on a buying trip in Italy and “discovered” pipe maker Carlo Scotti. Frank liked Scotti’s pipes, but there was the small problem of Scotti’s pipes bearing the same trademark or logo as one of Wally Frank’s pipe lines, the White Bar. The two men decided on creating a new logo for pipes sold in the U.S.: a hole drilled in the stem and with a piece of silver foil inserted in the hole and covered with clear Lucite.

Wally Frank (the person) wrote the forward to Georges Herment’s 1954 book “The Pipe.””

(Wally Frank – Pipedia)

Verdict: Potential. Most likely not made by but imported by Wally Frank. Wally Frank was also fairly diligent about stamping their name on pipes imported to the U.S.

Jury, have you come to a verdict?

Yes, your Honor. We, the jury, find this to be a pipe.

Thank you Jury Foreman, Captain Obvious.

As with the imaginary jury above, I cannot say who the maker of this pipe is. If I had to guess, I would say the Portland Pipe Company. This would only be due to their use of the word foreign. I could not find any other occurrences of that term stamped on pipes.

What the heck, let’s just restore it anyway. I started this project by seeing if I had any suitable brass tubing of the correct size for a band. I did, the ½ inch (12.7mm) outside diameter tube would work nicely. I measured the length of brass tubing that would cover the crack and not interfere with the stamp on the shank. A pipe cutter was used to cut the brass to the size I wanted.

Next I had to file and sand the shank for the band to fit the shank. This was done with a flat needle file and 320 sanding sponge.

Once the shank had been defiled and sanded a thin bead of cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) was applied to the shank and the brass band was pressed into position.

I could see several fills under the clear coat finish. I thought that I would try to sand the finish off rather than use a solvent. I started sanding with the 400 and 600 sanding sponges. You can see the fill as dark spots in several places on the stummel. The finish was applied very thickly and I think acted to fill the flaws in the briar. I sanded with the band in place to further smooth the band with the shank. This allowed a very even and smooth fit for the brass. I planned to do the same for the stem when I sanded and micro-meshed it for the same smooth transition.

I continued sanding with the 1000 and 1500 sanding sponges. After sanding I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad wetted with 99% isopropyl alcohol. The grain looked better when wet with the alcohol however I thought that a contrast stain done with a black base coat would bring out the grain better.

I prepped the dyeing are using an inverted plastic tub as a base. On this I place a couple of paper towels to absorb spill, the Feibing’s Black Leather dye, a pipe cleaner (used as an applicator), the official duct tape wrapped fishing bobber and a disposable lighter. Yeah, most people use a wine bottle cork rather than a duct tape wrapped bobber. What can I say, I’m a real rebel…

I applied a single coat of the black dye to the stummel and flamed it with the lighter. This burns off the alcohol solvent of the dye while heating the briar to allow better penetration of the dye. SInce I was going to be sanding the dyed surface of the briar off immediately I was not concerned about allowing complete drying time.

I took the stummel back to the workbench and put a nitrile glove on my left hand. With the right hand I dipped a cotton make-up pad into the alcohol and began rubbing away extra dye from the stummel. I repeated this one additional time.

The alcohol dried very quickly and I started sanding the black off of the stummel. I know what you are thinking. “Why sand off the dye that you just applied?” I wanted the dye to penetrate into the softer grain of the briar deeper than the harder grain. By sanding off the surface, the grain that absorbed the black dye deeper retains the dye while the grain that allowed less penetration retains its original color. This accentuates the grain of the briar. Well, that is what I hoped would happen. TO remove the outer surface of the stummel I used the 320 sanding sponge until I got the colors I was after. I did more “finish” sanding with the 400 sponge. You Can see from the photos below that I was frequently wiping the sponges off onto the denim cloth on the workbench. I used care around the stamp. I did sand the stamp lightly with the 400 sponge. Since the stamp was deep and very clear I was too worried about destroying it and I didn’t want the blocky “censored” box look around the stamp.

There were a couple of spots where pits could be seen. I used a fly tying bodkin to apply small dabs of thin CA to the pits. A briar dust filled sanding sponge was then used to sand over the wet CA. The briar dust was pressed into the wet CA during the sanding and filled the pit. This fill set-up and cured almost immediately. This technique works well for very small areas to be filled. Several applications are required for large pits. Fortunately these were all very small.

I continued sanding with the sponges from the 600-3500. Between each sponge I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad wetted with alcohol.

I then micro-meshed the stummel with the 4000-12000 micro-mesh pads. Between each pad I wiped the stummel with isopropyl alcohol. Once finished the stummel received a coat of Before and After Restoration Balm.

I allowed the balm to do the magic that it does for about 20 minutes while I transferred and labeled photos. Once the 20 minutes were up I rubbed the remaining balm from the stummel using the inside of a cotton athletic sock.

The next phase was to sand the stem, I inserted it into the stummel for ease of sanding and to allow the sanding of the stem-side of the band as well. Since the stem had no tooth chatter, only mild oxidation, I started with the 15500 sanding sponge and worked up from there. Between sponges I applied a drop of mineral oil rubbed in with fingers and wiped with a paper towel.

With the sanding finished I moved on to the micro-mesh pads. I used the 4000-12000 pads in sequence. Between each pad I applied a drop of Obsidian Oil rubbed in with my fingers and wiped away the excess with a paper towel. When finished with the stem I carefully used the micro-mesh 4000-12000 pads to polish the brass band and to even out any marks made white micromeshing the stummel or stem. THe final task was to apply several coats of carnauba wax with the buffer.

Overall I think this old Celebra turned out rather nicely. How a never before smoked pipe came to need a band for a cracked stem is anyone’s guess. It must be that guesses are what this pipe is all about. Guessing who made it seems to be the only way to determine the provenance as well. Wherever it hails from, it certainly looks nicer that it did originally. The contrast stain improved the appearance of the grain, the fine sanding and polish with the carnauba wax improved the finish and the band is just a touch of class to an otherwise plain looking old pipe. I do hope that you found something here useful or were entertained. If you enjoy this sort of thing please, click the like and subscribe. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

Below are some photos of the Celebra Foreign Made (by unknown maker) Billiard with a new brass band.
A Kaufmann Bros. & Bondy (KB&B)? Churchwarden Restoration

November 23rd, 2023

Written and photographed by John M. Young

The first time I ever publicly wrote anything about pipe restoration was in a forum at SmokingPipes.com back on October 21 2022. I guess I was feeling pretty proud of myself and wanted to brag a little. I titled the post “You did what to a what with a what?” The following is that post in its entirety:

It was bound to happen: I finally got a Ropp cherry wood branch with an auction and no, that was not the pipe in the lot I wanted. Anyway, the old Cherry was kind of cute. I felt obliged to give her a little bit of love. A little bowl reaming followed by the old Murphy’s oil soap with a toothbrush routine and the obligatory removal of the electrician tape in front of the mouthpiece revealed a – dramatic pause – a cracked shank. Who saw that one coming? Hmm, how much obligation do I really have for this old girl? I mean, we just met…

Well, lets see how bad the crack is. Hmm, half an inch. Internet search for a ring shows that the Vermont Freehand boys are going to be in Las Vegas for a few days and this old Cherry needs a doctor “stat”. What else could I use? Hey, what is that old .357 cartridge doing in my pipe cleaning tool box? The caliper says that .375 would require a whole bunch of file work and sanding to make a ring. Hmm, last time I checked a .44 Mag case is wider than a .357. Wheels turning, let’s visit the reloading bench. Sure enough, a .44 is bigger than a .375 and would only require a little bit of filing and sanding. Hmm, now all I need is a son-in-law who is a plumber with a pipe cutter. Oh yeah, he’ll be home at 4:30. Snippity snap I have a .44 cal, I mean a brass ring for the patient. Doctor, I think she is going to pull through.

I hope you had as much fun reading as I did restoring this old Cherry. And for the record, she smokes pretty well.

From south east NE,

John

I am guessing that you can relate if you have purchased an estate lot or two. You get that pipe with tape around the shank right there at the mortise. You think to yourself, “I bet the previous owner just liked tape.” Yup, da Nile is a river in Africa. Then you carefully peel the tape off, certain that if you go slowly the crack will have healed over time, you continue, slowly, slowly.

Visions of Brad Pitt pop into your head. You continue undaunted, a little more. Then there it is in all of its eldritch horror. – a shank crack. You are sure that the crack is so large the previous owner probably fell into it and may still be trapped down there.

Okay, maybe I have a tendency to over exaggerate – the Nile is mainly in Egypt. But, the rest is exactly how I felt the first time I discovered a shank crack. Learning to deal with them allows our darlings to live again regaining some of their smokey glory. After having glued and clamped one successfully. I thought, “this isn’t so bad”. That first glue job is still together after well over 2 years.

Then you find another crack and try to fashion a band and that works out pretty well too. You try a few more and sure enough, shank cracks are just another little thing that we have to deal with. I still recommend checking to make sure the previous owner isn’t trapped in there before you glue and clamp it up.

That brings us to the pipe of the day, a lovely old KB&B churchwarden (?) with a metallic tape shank. Not just scotch tape for this girl, no sir. Real duct

tape. And under that tape, you guessed it – a shank crack. I failed to take a picture of just the crack so you get to see what I did to the end of the crack.

Sorry if that kind of ruined the surprise. I am getting ahead of myself. Let me start with the photos of the pipe when she arrived:

She’s a long one, coming in at just under 12 inches (30ish cm)an she had all of the things that you expect from an old pipe: Dirt and grime, a caked bowl, lava on the rim, an oxidized stem, dents and dings, dirty internals and a cracked shank. Now the title of this blog contains a question mark because the stummel is not stamped with the KB&B clover nor with KB&B anywhere. The only stamping on the stummel is the “CHURCHWARDEN”. There is no country of manufacture (COM) nor any shape number. So, “why are you calling her a KB&B?”, you rightfully ask. Because the logo on the stem matches the logo for Kaufman Bros. & Bondy from their pre Kaywoodie days.

(https://pipedia.org/wiki/Kaufmann_Bros._%26_Bondy)

It is also true that there were two KB&B seconds brands which also used this logo. The first is Dorset. Here you can see the same logo but in light blue.

(Do-Dq — Pipes : Logos & Markings (pipephil.eu))

The second is the Hamilton, here the logo is in yellow. The yellow looks to be the same as the first emblem pictured.

(H-Hd — Pipes : Logos & Markings (pipephil.eu))

Both the Dorset and the Hamilton are stamped with the KB&B cloverleaf. It does bother me that there are no other stampings on this churchwarden to verify this claim. According to the KB&B page at Piedia,

“The trademarks, for the inlaid cloverleaf and the cloverleaf with the KB&B initials inside, were issued in 1881.” (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Kaufmann_Bros._%26_Bondy)

KB&B had used the cloverleaf logo for many years prior to the origination of Kaywoodie and Yello-Bole.

This could have been an old stem that was slapped onto some no name stummel at any point in the previous century. I am not claiming that this is a true Pre-WWI or WWII KB&B and listing it up for auction. This is a pipe that I enjoyed working on and continue to enjoy smoking. As for the history of the piece, It may be lost to the mists of time.

To the restoration. I apologize in advance for the lack of step by step photos. This was another of my earlier restorations before I started proper documentation.

The first thing that I did was to remove the tape. I think I covered that ordeal pretty well earlier. The crack was approximately one half an inch (1.25 cm) long. Normally I will ream the tobacco chamber first but, I wanted to see to this crack. The tape must have been applied shortly after the shank had cracked and the owner applied a good amount of force when taping the shank back together. They had obviously enjoyed smoking this pipe and tried to the best of their ability to fix her up and get her back into the game. There was very little debris in the crack.

I started cleaning out the airway with cotton swabs dipped in 99% isopropyl alcohol. They were pretty dirty. I then poured about 3 ml of the alcohol into the bowl and held the pipe at an angle that would not dump the alcohol all over the workbench. I retrieved a small nylon shank brush. With the alcohol pooled up in the shank, I started scrubbing with the brush. You could feel the alcohol doing its job as the brush became more and more easy to move back and forth. I dumped the alcohol into a medicine cup knowing the color would be dark, it was. I poured another 3 ml of alcohol in and repeated the airway scrub. This time the alcohol came out more brown than black. I repeated the process again and the alcohol was more golden. Progress. After the third alcohol shank scrub I then was able to use the cotton swabs to finish cleaning out the airway. I figured that all of this alcohol would also be cleaning out and rinsing the crack as I was cleaning the airway. I used a longer bristle brush to work alcohol into the crack and clean it out as well as I could. I used the fine dental pick to see if there was anything else that could be removed. The crack appeared clean.

I started on the tobacco chamber next. I used the PipNet reamer. All the alcohol had softened up the cake nicely and the reaming went without any

issues. I gave everything a final scrape with the SmokingPipes Low Country Reamer. The final step was to use 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wooden dowel to return the chamber to bare briar and inspect for any damage. The interior of the chamber looked good and showed no signs of damage.

I then took the stummel to the sink for its bath. The bath is a serious scrub with undiluted Murphy Wood Cleaner and a medium stiff toothbrush. This

will usually remove the years worth of dirt and accumulated grime. Again the lava on the rim had also been softened by all the alcohol from earlier and it too scrubbed off nicely. The rim did look like it was in need of a topping as the years of use had given it a charred taper rather than a nice sharp edge. After the Murphy’s scrub the stummel was rinsed with warm water and dried with a cotton dish towel.

The stummel returned to the workbench looking clean and finish free. I started to rub down the stummel with cotton make-up removal pads soaked in 99% isopropyl alcohol. There did not appear to be any finish remaining on the briar. I wanted the wood to be completely dry before addressing the crack so, I set it aside and turned my attention to the long churchwarden stem.

Typically I would rub the length of a stem with 0000 steel wool and give it a soak for an hour or so in the Before and After Deoxidizing Solution. This stem was far to long to fit in the jar. Which meant that it would have to be done with Soft Scrub and cotton pads. The thought that made my finger start cramping in anticipation. I decided to make an OxyClean solution in a large ZipLock bag and soak the stem in the solution in an attempt at softening up the oxidized vulcanite. I put about a heaping tablespoon of OxyClean in about ¾ cup of warm water. Yes, I know, exact measurements are helpful. I figured that I’d let it soak for an hour then see how it was progressing.

The OxyClean soak did work at softening the oxidation. I set to work with the make-up removal pads and the Soft Scrub. Many pads later and a couple breaks, not of the stem but breaks for my hands, the stem was looking much better. I oiled the stem thoroughly with mineral oil and mentally prepared myself for the stem airway. Knowing how grimy the shank was I had kind of

https://www.piggypolish.com/channeling-scrubbing-bubbles/

been putting off the stem airway cleaning. I did hope that the OxyClean solution would have been like the scrubbing bubbles on the old commercials.

I got a medicine cup filled with about 5 ml of alcohol, a pipette for dropping more alcohol on the length of the pipe cleaner and a new bag of churchwarden bristle pipe cleaners. Long pipe cleaners work well if they do not get a bend in them. This means the you are pushing less than one centimeter at a time into the stem. It was a long and tedious process with many bent stems and additional drops of alcohol but I finally got one pipe cleaner through. I remembered seeing a

video somewhere about clamping the end of a pipe cleaner in a vice while holding the other end of the clamped cleaner and moving the stem up and down along the pipe cleaner. If I recall correctly the guy in the video was talking about polishing the airway. I did this with the churchwarden stem. I added additional alcohol to the top and slid the stem up and down on the clamped pipe cleaner. Several pipe cleaners later the airway was clean. The next job was to micromesh the stem. I started with the 1500 followed by the 1800 micro-mesh pads. These were both wetted with a couple of drops of water. After the 1500 I wiped the stem with Obsidian Oil before proceeding to the 1800. After the 1800 micro-mesh the Obsidian Oil was used again. The remaining pads were used in increasing numbers with Obsidian Oil applied between each pad.

The following day, after the stummel had dried overnight it was time to address that crack. To keep the crack from spreading I used the smallest drill bit I had and my Dremel rotary tool. I drilled a small hole at the end of the crack. This crack was wide enough that I thought J.B. Weld would be a better glue to use that cyanoacrylate (super glue). I then mixed the two part epoxy on a small plastic tray with a toothpick. I then worked the epoxy into the crack flexing it open and closed to allow the glue to penetrate the entire crack. Once i was satisfied with the coverage I used a small clamp to squeeze the sides together. To make sure there was no epoxy on the inside of the airway I used a couple of cotton swabs slightly moistened with acetone to wipe the excess glue from the airway. This was set aside to allow the epoxy to cure.

My next task was to cut a brass band. I thought that brass would look slightly better that the aluminum tape band that the pipe had on arrival. You my have noticed from the earlier photo of a few of my band projects they are made from spent cartridge brass. That was the source of my brass bands

prior to me actually buying several different diameters of brass tubing. In the case of this KB&B (?) I used a 44 Remingth Magnum spent cartridge (pun intended) as the donor. A pipe cutter was used to cut a piece that would cover the crack. The cutter is nice as it gives the brass a little bend to the cut end and softens the edge.

I allowed the epoxy to cure overnight before removing the clamp. The instructions say that the glue sets-up after 15 minutes but I wanted to make sure the the stress of the wood would not spread the still soft glue and widen the crack. The next day I removed the clamp and took a look at the glue seam.

It looked good. I sanded the excess glue on the outside of the stummel then sanded the area that would be under the band for a better fit. The band went on without glue as it was a very tight fit. I used a scrap wood block to press the band the final millimeters and t make it flush with the shank.

With the band seated all that remained was the final micro-meshing of the stummel. This process nearly the same as with the micro-meshing of the stem.. The difference was that rather than using Obsidian Oil between the micro-mesh pads I wipe the stummel with a make-up pad moistened with

99% isopropyl alcohol. After the 12000 micro-mesh pad and alcohol wipe I gave the stummel a liberal coating of Before and After Restoration Balm. The balm was allowed to sit for 30 minutes.

After the wait time I rubbed the remaining Restoration Balm off with an inside-out athletic sock. I did not have a buffer at the time of this restoration. I did have Renaissance Microcrystalline Wax. The wax was applied and allied to dry to 10 minutes. The wax was then hand buffed with a buffing pad. This was repeated two additional times.

I have enjoyed smoking the this old pipe many times. I certainly understand why the Germans call churchwardens “lesepfeife”, which means reading pipe. They do make wonderful reading companions. Other benefits include not getting smoke into your eyes when reading, not having to reach all the way to your face for a pipe and looking wizardly. No, not like Gandalf. In the J.R.R. Tolkien’s Middle-earth books Gandalf did not use a long stemmed pipe. He had a small clay pipe that he tucked into his robe. We can thank Peter Jackson for the image of Gandalf with a long stem pipe. I don’t think I will ever be certain as to the pedigree of this churchwarden. KB&B or not? I don’t think it matters one bit to the pipe nor the tobacco and guess not me either. Thank you for reading the rambling of this old pipe lover. If you have any insights to the origin of this churchwarden please feel free to leave a comment. If you like this sort of thing please click the “like” and or “subscribe” buttons.

Below are photos of the finished KB&B (?) Churchwarden.