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Tag: Peterson restoration

A Peterson Captain Pete Restoration

December 21st, 2023

Written and photographed by John M. Young

It has been said that I suffer from Peterson Pipe Acquisition Disorder (PPAD). Though not a painful affliction, except in a financial way, it can prove detrimental to one’s long term mental stability. I believe the early symptoms include a strange desire to only smoke Peterson pipes. As the disorder progresses afflicted individuals feel a compulsion to own each of the Peterson 300 series shapes. In its latter stages individuals can become obsessed with owning an example of every Peterson pipe ever produced. These poor souls have been known to have and hoard hundreds of Peterson pipes which they refer to as “a collection”.

Fortunately, for myself, I seem to be in an early stage of the disorder and only have mild symptoms. This stage is often referred to as being a “Pete Geek”. Some symptoms in PPAD include rambling conversations with patients repeating the terms 1896, patents, well, chimney and P-lip. Some patients have been known to speak poorly pronounced Gaelic phrases like “Sláinte”, “Dia duit” and “Póg mo thóin!”   In my case, I can still see the beauty of other brands and lines of pipes and, so far at least, not fallen into true Obsessive Compulsive Peterson Pipe Acquisition Disorder (OCPPAD).

The subject of this blog is a Peterson Captain Pete. The pipe was purchased via an auction from eBay. Peterson pipes have a long and storied history which is rich and fascinating. I highly recommend the book The Peterson Pipe, by authors Mark Irwin and Gary Malmberg as well as a reading of pipedia.com’s Peterson pages. According to Mark Irwin and Gary Malmberg, the Captain Pete:

“This line’s name was derived from the nickname of Charles Peterson, known affectionately as “Captain Peterson.” The first issue, c. 1940-62, was in a smooth finish produced for Rogers Imports with a white stamped P inside C, or a circled P on the mouthpiece. CAPTAIN over PETE on shank, and a MADE IN IRELAND in a circle. English made versions show CAPTAIN over PETE on shank or “CAPTAIN PETERSON” and A PETERSON PRODUCT over MADE IN ENGLAND or LONDON MADE over ENGLAND. The second issue (1998-), features an XL bowl with Sherlock Holmes shapes and compact stems, in rustic or combination of smooth and rustic, with a nickel band between two narrow brass bands.” (Irwin and Malmberg p.295)

Photos of this Peterson Captain Pete when it arrived are below:

As you can see from the photos and by comparing them to the description of Irwin and Malberg, this is a first issue 1940-1962 pipe. The condition of the pipe is remarkable. I would judge that it was only smoked a handful of times. The lathe marks inside the tobacco chamber are visible though not shown in the photos. The condition of the stem and lower bowl interior are nearly factory fresh. When I first examined this pipe I thought the only work that I would need to do was minimal. It included; redoing the factory fills, 8 of them in total, reaming the slight cake of the tobacco chamber, fine polishing of the stem with a logo touch-up painting and a thorough cleaning of the airway.

I began with a look at the airway. It was remarkably clean, after swabbing the shank with a cotton swab dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol and a pipe cleaner

dipped in the same alcohol I only got a slight discoloring of the swab and cleaner. Though not spotless far cleaner than I would have expected from a pipe that was 60-80 years old. I suspected that someone had cleaned this pipe recently.

Next on the agenda were the fills. I do not enjoy replacing fill. Yes, I know it is a part of my pursuit and that the very nature that creates this wonderful wood, briar, would not have the characteristics that we require if it were to grow in more hospitable, less sandy environs. I still do not like fixing fills. “Quit whining, ya big baby.” “Oh good, you’re back. I was beginning to think I was alone.” “You’re not getting paid by the word so knock it off and fix the dang pits.”

I tried to photograph the pits and their factory fills. They were not badly done, just done in a factory. I know this pipe would never have made the cut at Dunhill’s due to the sand pits but a Peterson isn’t a Dunhill. Although

the finished goal is to have a finish that rivals a smooth Dunhill. Anyway, I began by picking out any old fill material that was soft enough to remove with a fly tying bodkin. There were 8 pits in all. I used the same bodkin to place a small drop of brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) into a pit. I then used nitrile gloved fingers to take a pinch of briar dust and forcefully press the dust into the CA filled pit. The CA sets up near immediately with the briar dust so the motion of placing and pressing must be done quickly. Once one was filled I moved on to the next pit. Once all were filled I allowed them to sit and cure for a few minutes.

The beautiful Captain Pete now looked like a pox ridden mess. I remember learning the word carbuncle in High school English, Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales, perhaps. For some reason that word popped back into my mind.

The next task was to file the majority of the CA and briar dust “new fill” from the stummel while doing as little damage as possible to the stummel. Slow and steady are the keys to this. Now, a normal person can do this by feel. The CA is much harder than the briar and I am sure it feels significantly different than filing the briar. I cannot feel very much with my fingers. They are perpetually numb due to me having multiple sclerosis (MS). I have to use my eyes and ears to see and hear the file working rather than relying on a sense of touch. Since the file is covering the area being filed it is mostly by hearing that I do this. Once filed smoothish I turned to the sandpaper. I

used nothing coarser than 320 and this only with a very light touch. 400 was mainly used after which I went directly to the 1500 micro-mesh pad. Once sanded smooth I then checked for any slight spots where the briar dust had left tiny pores in the surface. When a tiny pore or depression was found I would lightly touch it with the bodkin touched with, not dipped in, brown CA. These very small spots of CA were then allowed to sit for 15 minutes to cure. After curing they were again smoothed using the 2400 micro-mesh pad.

I was now ready to start the micro-meshing of the whole stummel. I used painters tape to mask the stampings and reinserted the stem. I also taped over the stem logo. I used the 1500 and 1800 micro-mesh pads dry with a very light touch. After the pads I wiped the stummel off with a make-up removal pad moistened with 99% isopropyl alcohol. The stem did not require micro-meshing at this coarse of a grit so it was ignored. The 2400 micro-mesh pad was used on both the stummel and stem. The wiping of the stummel remained the same while the wiping of the stem between pads was done with a drop of Obsidian oil rubbed in by fingers followed by a wipe with a clean paper towel. This continued through the 3600 micro-mesh pad with the above mentioned wiping between pads.

Upon finishing with the 3600 micro-mesh pad and wipe I removed all of the painters tape. I then repainted the logo with acrylic model paint. This was allowed to dry for 10 minutes.

Once the paint had dried I began micro-meshing the stummel and stem with the 4000-12000 micro-mesh pads. There were a couple of spots inside the logo that needed to have paint scraped off. This was carefully done with the edge of a pocket knife. Between each of the micro-mesh pads the stummel and stem surfaces were wiped as before.

In examining the pipe after the micro-meshing I was not happy with the briar color. There were light areas where I had sanded during the filling of blemishes that did not match the stummel. I thought it would be best to lightly restrain the stummel using a diluted Fiebing’s Leather Dye.

I poured 5 ml of 95% ethyl alcohol into a medicine cup. I then used a clean soft pipe cleaner as an applicator. The pipe cleaner was dipped into the Light Brown Fiebing’s and stirred into the 5 ml of ethyl alcohol. THe dye was then applied to the surface of the stummel.

Several coats were applied to achieve complete coverage. The wet stummel was then flamed with a disposable lighter to set the dye. I then allowed the dye to dry for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes I began wiping the stummel with a make-up pads wetted with 95% ethyl alcohol. The pads removed much of the dye and blended the area very nicely.

Once all of the alcohol had evaporated I slathered the entire pipe with Before and After Restoration Balm. The balm was allied to sit and do its magic for 20 minutes.

I was definitely in the home stretch and the pipe was looking good. I wiped off the Restoration Balm with a soft cotton rag. I then polished the stem using Before and After Fine Polish applied with my finger and rubbed with a cotton rag followed by the Before and After Extra-Fine Polish.

The final step was to apply several coats of carnauba wax with the buffer. After buffing the pipe was hand buffed with a microfiber cloth and taken upstair for a photo session.

Overall I am very pleased with how well this Captain Pete turned out. I had always wanted to restore one of these and can now check it off the list. I do think that the previous owner had cleaned up this pipe and perhaps tried their hand at a restoration. It was remarkably clean, except for the need of a reaming, when I received it. One other thing that I noticed when working with the stem was the lack of any oxidation. For a pipe that is 60-80 years old there should be oxidation. I could tell that the stem had been buffed with noticeable buffing marks running perpendicular to the length of the stem. These were all removed during the micro-meshing. I do hope that you have found this informative and or entertaining. If you like this sort of thing please hit like and subscribe. Thank you very much for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

*Irwin, Mark, and Gary Malmberg. The Peterson Pipe The Story of Kapp & Peterson. First Edition, second printing ed., Canada, Briar Books Press, 2018.

Below are some photos of the finished Peterson Captain Pete.
A Peterson Deluxe 8S Restoration

November 1st, 2023

Written and photographed by John M. Young

In October of 2023 I first lay eyes on this auction on eBay. I bid and won the below Peterson 8S. As far as restores go this one looked pretty easy and a Deluxe for under $100 is not too bad at all.

The photos all looked good for a pipe from the 1970s. The one slight issue that I noticed right off was the missing aluminum chimney or stem extension. I could see the stem was threaded and I know from experience that Peterson Deluxe pipe typically have the chimney. I thought, “no problem. I have a couple spare chimneys that I’d purchased from https://www.smokingpipes.eu. The U.S. version (https://www.smokingpipes.com) is usually sold out whereas the Dublin shop usually has them in stock.

While waiting for the 8S to arrive I went through The Peterson Pipe (the Big Book) to refresh myself with the history and lore of the new acquisition. The “8” is actually one of the original Peterson Patent shapes dating back to the 1896 catalog. I went to the Peterson Pipe Notes, by Mark Irwin, for a more condensed rendering of this shape history.Inb Blog “146. A Guide to System Shapes, 1896 – 2019, Part 1 (The 300 Shape Group)” mark Irwin does a great job summarizing this original shape:

“313 Medium Bent Dutch. 1896-Present.

Length: 4.94 in. / 125.48 mm.
Weight: 1.40 oz. / 39.69 g.
Bowl Height: 1.78 in. / 45.21 mm.
Chamber Depth: 1.53 in. / 38.86 mm.
Chamber Diameter: 0.70 in. / 17.78 mm.
Outside Diameter: 1.19 in. /30.23 mm.

The 313 is an original Patent dutch billiard bowl, pictured in the 1896 catalog as shape 8 and listed in the 1906 catalog as one of the small Patents. It was given its current shape number as a 2nd Quality pipe in the 1937 catalog, where it also appears as a 3rd Quality pipe with shape number 363. That catalog also gives shape number 8S to its De Luxe version, where it also appears as a Classic Range 2004B (K and 1st Quality) and 338 (Kapet and De Luxe). In the late 1970s it was released in the Dunmore System line as number 73.”

Quote from: https://petersonpipenotes.org/2019/09/03/146-a-guide-to-system-shapes-1896-2019-part-1-the-300-shape-group/

Looking at the photos from eBay, I could make out the third stamping from the hallmark as a “C”. I think it must be a 1970 based on the size of the “c”. The final warning came in the description and stated that the pipe had, “burnt marks around the bowl edge inside part .” So, when it arrives we will see an old pipe that is missing a chimney, has a charred rim and worn hallmarks – sounds like fun.

It finally did arrive and to no surprise it was an old pipe that was missing a chimney, had a charred rim and had worn hallmarks. Here are some photos taken prior to restoration:

As you can see the old 8S has some issues. I began with the tobacco chamber. It did not have a thick cake but I did want to see if the chamber had any charring issues of its own. I used the PipNet reamer and the Smokingpipes knife to clean out the tobacco chamber (photo below). After this was completed I sanded the interior of the tobacco chamber with 220 sandpaper on a wooden dowel. The chamber looked good with no sign of any charring.

With the tobacco chamber finished I decided to clean the exterior of the stummel. This was done using Murphy’s Oil Soap and a medium stiffness toothbrush. The exteriors cleaned up without any issues. The rim had some “lava”, the residue of dried tars. However it was difficult to tell where the lava ended and the charring began. I rinsed the exterior with warm water and used a damped finger to remove and sanding dust from the tobacco chamber. Next was the draught hole. I returned to the restoration bench and moistened a bristle pipe cleaner with 99% ethyl alcohol. This was run through the draught hole to gauge how dirty it was. The pipe cleaner came back quite blackened with tar. Here I poured about 5 ml of alcohol down into the tobacco chamber. Holding the stummel upright I used a small nylon brush to scrub and loosen/dissolve the old residue. After a minute of scrubbing I would pour the alcohol into a small medicine cup and run a pipe cleaner through to check on the color of the pipe cleaner. Black = more scrubbing, brown = more scrubbing with progress, white = finished. It was brown. I refilled with another 5 ml of alcohol and repeated the scrubbing. The result was cleaner than the first time. I repeated with another 5 ml of alcohol. Finally I started to get through the build-up of smoking residue. I finished by using alcohol soaked bristle pipe cleaners until they cam out clean.

Next was the reservoir. On a Peterson System pipe this is where the water from the smoke condenses and accumulates. A diligent Pete smoker will twist a napkin or paper towel and dab out this condensate before dumping the ash or dottle. All of my alcohol baths had softened the residues in the reservoir quite nicely. I scraped with a round ended blade as much of the residue out as I could before using cotton swabs soaked in alcohol to clean out the reservoir. After what seemed like hundreds of swabs was actually 15. The reservoir was now clean. All of this soap, water and alcohol had taken quite a toll on the finish of the pipe. I used a make-up removing pad dipped in alcohol to wipe away any wax that remained on the stummel.

I decided to top the rim of the pipe using 220 wet/dry sandpaper on a countertop. This ferrule is a little bit taller than the rim making topping a bit more difficult. I wanted to apply a little bit more pressure to the charred areas closer to the ferrule while keeping the flat profile and altering the shape of the 8S as little as possible. After I had sanded as much as I felt comfortable with the 220 grit I used a 400 grit paper to smooth out any scratch lines. This left the stummel looking better but I was still not happy with the charred area. I then used a small wood sphere wrapped in 220 sandpaper to chamfer the inside edge of the rim. This helped but I was still not happy with the rim. I quit worrying about it and moved on. More on this later.

With the finish removed it was time to start sanding the wood. I noted exactly where the stamping were and made it a point to avoid sanding those areas. I started with the 1500 grit micro-mesh sanding pad moistened with a few drops of water. After sanding I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad moistened with alcohol. I repeated the wet sanding with the 1800 grit micro-mesh pad and wiping with the make-up pad. The subsequent micro-mesh pads were used dry with an alcohol wipe after each micro-mesh pad. I worked up to the 12000 grit micro-mesh pad.

The stem of this old 8S needed very little work. First off, what is a Peterson chimney? It is a tenon extension of the stem into the reservoir. The tenon extension is called a chimney by employees at the Peterson factory. They are part of Deluxe and Premier models. Here you can see a diagram of a Peterson System pipe. The chimney, though not labeled, is shown and I circled it in green.

Photo from: https://petersonpipenotes.org/2018/08/30/105-peterson-system-day-2018/

Below are examples of Peterson System pipe chimneys. The Straight System pipes in the 120 shape and the 31 shape also have tenon extensions, these are shown in the photos below. Today all of the chimneys are made of aluminum. Prior to 1960 the tenon extensions were made of bone. I have a couple of bone chimneys on System pipes. In each case the bone is fused to the vulcanite stem. When these bone chimneys eventually crack or break I will have to drill them out and replace them with a new aluminum chimney.

Top pipe is a Peterson 31 Straight System pipe. Below is a Deluxe XL339. Both showing aluminum chimneys.

Top pipe is a Peterson Premier 312. Bottom pipe is a Peterson Straight System 120. Both pipes have bone tenon extensions.

Okay, now that we have had our Peterson chimney primer let’s try a new Peterson chimney in the old 8S. No luck there. The old style chimney is a slightly larger diameter than the new one. The below photo shows the new chimney flopping about in the threads.

Fortunately I have a friend, Christian Baxter, who is a machinist. Normally he is building custom machines for testing prosthetics for humans. When asked, he was glad to work on something “important” for a change. Relativity, not just for physics. Christian is an amazing machinist and showed me some true reality altering things that could be done with a metal lathe. After a few minutes of work he had manufactured a very nice chimney for the 8S.

The above two photos are Christian Baxter’s lovely work making a replacement chimney.

The last thing that the stem needed was a good cleaning, micro-meshing and polish. The cleaning was done with bristle pipe cleaners dipped in 99% ethyl alcohol. These were run through the stem until the came out clean. The micro-mesh sanding of the stem was done in the same way as with the stummel – starting with 1500-1800 (wet), and working up to 12000. I wiped the stem off with Obsidian Oil between each micro-mesh pad. After the 12000 pad, I polished the stem using Fine Polish followed by the Extra Fine Polish from Lbepen.com.

The restoration was nearly finished. Here are a few photos before the final buff and application of the carnauba wax.

As previously stated, I was not happy with my attempts to repair the charred rim. I mention this with some photos on a Facebook group that I frequent. One gentleman there, Sascha Mertens from Germany, mentioned that he uses a technique where he applies petroleum jelly to the charred area then uses a sharp knife to very carefully scrape the charred wood leaving behind undamaged briar. I had not heard of this technique and decided to give it a try. My first step was to get out my old German Boker pocket knife and give it a very sharp edge. It only seemed appropriate to use a German knife with this new German advice.

Next, I applied the petroleum jelly and allowed it to soak the charred wood for a few minutes. I then careful began using the edge of the knife, held vertically, to lightly scrape the charred areas. I wiped the jelly/char off on a make-up removal pad and repeated the char scraping. It worked just like Sascha said. Below are the photos of the results.

The results were very nice. I was at last happy with the way the rim looked. Thank you Sascha Mertens.

The final step was to apply a high quality carnauba wax with the buffer. This step really made the 8S shine and returned her to the near glorious condition when she left the Peterson factory. This project would not have been possible without the assistance of Christian Baxter, machinist extraordinaire, and Sascha Mertens. Their advice and skills made this restoration a success. And thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

Here are some final photos of the Peterson Deluxe 8S.
A Peterson Cara 314 Restore

October 30th, 2023

Written and photographed by John M. Young

In April of 2023 I came across an Ebay auction of this lovely Peterson’s Cara. The birdseyes caught my eye and I decided that I’d give bidding a try. The original photos showed a dark spot on the bottom of the stummel and in the description the seller mentioned that the dark spot may indicate a plug.

Upon winning the auction and receiving the pipe it did indeed appear that a previous owner had plugged the bottom of the stummel. An inspection of the inside of the bowl did not immediately explain why a plug would have been necessary. As I was cleaning the pipe I discovered that there were two draught holes. The top one was completely choked with tar and smoking residue. The bottom draught hole started at the bottom of the well and connected to the bottom of the tobacco chamber. Strange, indeed.

I used a reaming tool to open the top draught hole. This top hole is the correct or factory draught. The two draught passageways ran parallel to one another together and were separated by about 1/16th an inch of briar along their lengths. You will have to forgive the lack of photos documenting this as I do not have a camera nor lighting adequate to show what I was seeing with my eyes. Hopefully the diagrams will clarify any confusion. Confusion is something I had quite a bit of at this point. Below (Figure 1) is an image of a Peterson system similar to that of the Cara (figure 1). It is not exactly what I had to deal with but it is very similar.

Figure 1*

I again focused my attention to the bottom of the tobacco chamber. The bottom of the chamber did have a hole drilled into it. This hole was obviously not something of Peterson’s doing. The drilled hole ran directly into the second, lower, draught hole and lined up with the hole all the way through the stummel which was not a hole as it had been plugged.

I then began to piece together what I believe to have happened to this poor old Cara. I think that the top draught hole had become clogged with use. The owner, not understanding the inner workings of a Peterson system, decided that a new hole was needed. My guess is the poor fellow thought the bottom of the well was where the draught hole should be. He then began drilling a hole to open up the airway. Or in this case to make a new airway. He missed the bottom of the tobacco chamber due to the angle of the ferrule, his drill bit, geometry and physics. See figure 2. The red lines represent the new airway that was drilled.

Figure 2

To solve this problem he then drilled a hole in the bottom of the tobacco chamber to connect to his new airway. This is when he drilled all the way through the stummel. See figure 3. The light blue area shows the connecting hole drilled that went through the bottom of the stummel.

Figure 3

Upon seeing his new creation he decided to plug the hole. This he did with a piece of briar and cyanoacrylate glue. His plug worked well although he decided that sanding the plug smooth was an unnecessary step. Figure 4 shows the plug in brown.

Figure 4

His drilling had accomplished what he wanted, an airway that connected the bottom of the tobacco chamber to the mouthpiece. How long the previous owner used the pipe this way is unknown. I do give the guy credit for solving the problem of a clogged airway but wish he would have had a better understanding of the Peterson system. The Cara line of pipes originally was released in 1980, long before the availability of internet searches.

I figured the best way to resolve this whole two hole problem was to completely fill the second draught hole and the hole in the bottom of the tobacco chamber with J-B Weld. I mixed the two part epoxy as per the instructions. I then used a plastic pipette to slowly draw-up the epoxy into the pipette. I then carefully inserted the pipette into the well and slowly injected the J-B Weld into the hole. I repeated this with the hole through the tobacco chamber. Eventually I was able to fill the holes with the epoxy. I have tried to show this in figure 5. The brown section shows the plug while the green area shows the J-B Weld.

Figure 5

The plug scar after sanding and Restoration Balm:

Repaired interior of well:

It is hard to see but, the dark circle, center, is the draught hole. The bit of reflection is light reflecting off the J-B Weld repair.

Repaired interior of the tobacco chamber:

The cleaning and restoration of the exterior of the Cara 314 were much more typical of any older pipe. The first step was to ream the tobacco chamber with the PipNet reaming tool and Low Country Reamer (reaming knife from smokingpipes.com). The interior was then sanded to inspect for interior charring, none was found. The well and draught were scrubbed with Dawn dish soap and appropriately sized nylon bore brushes and rinsed with warm water. The well and draught were further cleaned with cotton swabs and pipe cleaners dipped in 99% ethyl alcohol. The ethyl alcohol, being hydrophilic, absorbs and removes much of the water used during the previously mentioned rinsing.

The exterior of the stummel was scrubbed with a medium stiff toothbrush and Murphy’s Oil Soap to remove the oils and dirt from years of handling. The top of the bowl did have some lava build up which came off nicely with the oil soap. This revealed an area of charring at the rear of the rim. I topped the entire stummel using gentle sanding with 220 wet/dry sandpaper on a table top. This was followed by sanding with 400 wet/dry sandpaper also on a table top. The rim of the pipe was then restrained using stain markers (Diaxism Total Furniture Repair System) in Cherry and Oak stains.The entire stummel was sanded with micromesh pads from 1800-6000 grit. The wood was then rubbed with Restoration Balm and allowed to dry for 30 minutes. The Balm was buffed with the inside of a cotton athletic sock.

The exterior of the stem was in remarkably good condition. Perhaps the seller of this pipe had access to a buffer and had buffed some of the oxidation off prior to posting the pipe on Ebay. The interior of this stem was very restricted with tars and tobacco smoking residue. I scrubbed the interior with nylon brushes and Dawn dish soap for quite some time. Finally after numerous scrub/rinse cycles the stem was appearing cleaned. I then ran several bristle pipe cleaners dipped in ethyl alcohol through the stem until they were clean. The water and alcohol from all this cleaning did accentuate the oxidation on the outside of the stem. I rubbed down the stem with 0000 steel wool and dropped it into the Before & After deoxidizing solution for about an hour. Upon removing it I allowed the solution to drip from the stem. Vigorous rubbing with a cotton rag removed the remaining deoxidizer. The inside of the stem was cleaned of deoxidizer with several pipe cleaners. Both the interior and exterior were liberally coated with mineral oil after the rubbing.

After the oxidation was removed I worked the stem with 1500-12000 grit micromesh pads. I wiped the stem with Obsidian oil on a cotton make-up removal pad in between each micropad. Finally I used Before & After Fine and Extra Fine polishes with a cotton cloth. After the extra fine polish was removed I applied a final coat of Obsidian Oil to the stem and let it stand for 20 minutes.

Photos of the finished Peterson Cara:

The old Peterson Cara 314 turned out quite nicely. The birdseyes are numerous and very attractive. The pipe now smokes very well and is a pleasure to add to my collection. I have to admit that she took a lot more work and hours than I originally thought she would, however, she comes from a grand old pipemaker and has many years ahead of her. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

*The original Peterson system crossection diagram was taken from: https://www.smokingpipes.com/smokingpipesblog/single.cfm/post/the-complete-guide-the-peterson-system-pipe-startling-revelations-about-charles-petersons-greatest-invention