Tag: filling pits in briar with cyanoacrylate

A Denicotea Durabel Golf Bruyere Extra 710

February 11th, 2025
Photographed and written by

John M. Young

Yeah, it’s another Denicotea. I Completely blame Sascha Mertens for the accumulation of Denicotea pipes over the past year. Sascha is a German pipeman and restorer who is actually a great guy and has led to my delinquency and departure from focusing on my beloved Peterson and Marxman pipes. Okay, that’s not quite fair, I also really like old Yello-Boles, Kaywoodies and Linkman’s Dr Grabow pipes. Come to think of it, I also have a fondness for the pipes of the 1930s-and 1940s and then there’s weird ones. Oh, and the metal pipes, I can’t leave those out. Wow, Maybe it’s not Sascha that is to blame. Maybe it is the raging attention deficit disorder? No, I’d rather blame Sascha.

Anyway, the subject of this restoration is a very lengthy named Denicotea. This pipe came to me all the way from “Vilnius, default, Lithuania”. That is what the location on eBay said, “default”. That rates right up there with the “Slow Child” caution signs. How’d you like to grow up with one of those signs in your front yard telling every motorist passing by that you are “Slow” or mentally handicapped. Cruel, I say. Wow, this blog is full of mental detours today. Back to the pipe. It came from Lithuania and was stamped with the following: DENICOTEA arched over a straight DURABEL. I think Denicotea had to make this pipe with a diamond shank to allow for all the Stamings. On the adjacent side, there is a stamp, GOLF over BRUYRER EXTRA. Adjacent to that is a 710, which I assume to be the shape number. The stem sports a stamped logo of an encircled D, which is a bit faint and lacking any paint. Below are some photos of the pipe before work was done to it.

The pipe was in great shape and the Lithuanian seller was a very good pipe cleaner. This made my job easy but I have to admit a touch of disappointment in having such an easy restoration. I still wanted to remove whatever clear coat was present and maybe touch up the fills.

Background

In a previous blog I wrote about the history about what little I found about Denicotea, I will link that post here, and include the information below:

“Pipedia.org has a short article on Denicotea. I will include it here in its entirety:

“Willy Heineberg founded the company Denicotea in 1932 and began manufacturing and selling smoking accessories such as filters, filter inserts, cigarette holders and pipes.^[1] The company headquarters was initially in Cologne, but was relocated to Bergisch Gladbach after the Second World War.^[2]

Denicotea is actually the name of a silica gel filter, cigarette holders and care products for pipes and cigarette holders.

I still find it a bit confusing as Denicotea seems to be a company^[3] and a brand as well which is operated by COMPOSING-STUDIO GmbH^[4].

Brands

Adsorba

Adsorba is a fantasy series of pipes produced by Luigi Crugnola for the German market.

Aldo Morelli

Aldo Morelli is a fictional name. The brand Aldo Morelli has been registered for Denicotea on February 26th, 1992.^[5]

Depending on the different lines the pipes are made by Cesare Barontini, Gigi or Molina Pipe for Denicotea GmbH.

Stefan Petzuch points out this brand appears to have similarities to the Mauro Cateni pipe brand, in particular they are both fictional Italian brands by German companies, and both have the “HAND CUT” imprint on the stem as seen bellow. This may connect the Aldo Morelli brand to Gebr. Heinemann KG in Hamburg, who had registered the Mauro Cateni brand. Or perhaps there is a connection between Denicotea and Gebr. Heinemann KG, or perhaps these pipe brands simply used “Hand Cut” stems from the same source.” (Denicotea – Pipedia)

Interesting and weird are the two qualifiers that come to mind in reading that. The four makers mentioned in the article; Luigi Crgnola, Cesare Barontini, Gig and Molina are all Italian pipe manufacturers. Where does the MADE IN ENGLAND stamp on the example on pipephil.eu or the stamp on the pipe I purchased come in, I cannot say. I can say that I am not the first person to have little success researching the origins of Denicotea pipes. Dal Stanton, who is far more diligent in his background research than I, had a French made Denicotea. He traced its origins to the St. Claude area but not to a specific maker. Dal’s blog was posted on Steve Laug’s rebornpipes.com site. Here is the link to Dal Stanton’s blog post: https://rebornpipes.com/2016/09/29/nice-find-in-plovdiv-bulgaria-denicotea-deluxe-curling-bruyere-extra/”

This Denicotea has neither the Country of Manufacture (COM) stamps of England nor France. It does have a shape number 710 which I could find no corresponding match with brands associated with Denicotea. This pipe’s heritage appears to remain a mystery.

The Restoration

I found myself feeling dishonest when I called this a restoration. It started out as more of a cleaning or refreshening.

I did want to get rid of whatever clear coat had been applied to the briar so, I guess that does make this a restoration. I first tried 95% ethyl alcohol on a cotton swab to test the finish removal. The swab was quickly stained red.

Seeing that ethyl alcohol worked, I decided on a bath of ethyl for a couple of hours. EtOH was the abbreviation for ethyl alcohol for a biochemistry lab I worked in, if you are wondering.

The stummel was submerged in the alcohol and the lid screwed back on tight. This alcohol had been used several times previously thus the very dark color.

The stem was very clean and my application of alcohol dipped cotton swabs and a pipe cleaner proved a bit unnecessary.

After the alcohol bath time, the stummel was removed and the briar vigorously rubbed with make-up pads. There still appeared to be some “shiny” to the stummel.

I lightly sanded the stummel with a 400 grit sanding sponge and wiped the surface with make-up pads wetted with acetone. This got rid of the shine that remained after the ethanol bath.

The tobacco chamber did not need a reaming so I just sanded it with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel. The chamber showed no evidence of any damage.

The stem was not oxidized and I suspected it was made of acrylic rather than vulcanite. I masked over the stamps with masking tape and began sanding with sanding sponges. This was done to better see the old fills. I wanted to pick the old fill material out and replace it with cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) and briar dust.

There were several old fills. I used a fly tying bodkin to pick the old filler out. The ethanol bath had softened the old fills nicely. The pits were then given a small drop of brown CA and had briar dust pressed into the wet CA.

The new fills were filed smooth with a small flat file then the whole pipe was sanded with a sequence of sanding sponges from 400-3500. The stummel was wiped with an alcohol wetted make-up pad between each sanding sponge while the stem was rubbed with mineral oil and wiped with a paper towel.

The masking tape was removed and the adhesive cleaned away with ethyl alcohol. The pipe was then worked with micro-mesh pads 4000-12000. The stummel and stem wiping was done as with the sanding sponges.

I applied a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm on the entire pipe and set a timer for 30 minutes.

The excess Restoration Balm was wiped off with an inside out athletic sock.

The pipe looked wonderful after the Restoration Balm did whatever magic it does.

I Painted the stem logo with white acrylic paint and allowed it to dry for a few minutes. Using a plastic card, I scraped off the excess pain and neglected to photograph any of it. The pipe was then taken to the buffer where it received several coats of carnauba wax. The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth.

This Deincotea Golf turned out very nicely. I admit that I have already smoked it one time and that was with an actual Denicotea crystal filled pipe filter. Sascha Mertens sent me a package of ten filters when we were exchanging care packages a while back. Thank you Sascha. I am not usually a filter pipe smoker but it seemed appropriate for the maiden voyage. The feel and look of the pipe are very excellent, as are the smoking characteristics. I like the slightly longer stems of the Denicoteas that I have added to my personal collection. They do require a bit of awareness at first though. This pipe is a touch too long to make for a comfortable clencher though it is a wonderful pipe for the contemplation of life. The dimensions of the Denicotea Durabel Gold Bruyere Extra 710 are:

Length: 6.04 in./ 153.42 mm.
- Weight: 1.55 oz./ 43.94 g.
- Bowl Height: 1.90 in./ 48.26 mm.
- Chamber Depth: 1.41 in./ 35.81 mm.
- Chamber Diameter: 0.75 in./ 19.05 mm. (Conically bored diameter is at the top)
- Outside Diameter: 1.60 in./ 40.64 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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Below are some photos of the completed Denicotea Durabel Gold Bruyere Extra 710 (that’s still a lot of words).
An Aldo Morelli Bent Restoration

February 4th, 2025
Photographed and written by

John M. Young

This slightly brutalized bent beauty was part of an estate lot of 13 pipes from Germany. I was interested in getting some pipes less common in the United States. The first from this lot that drew my attention was this rusticated bent pipe with a unique briar ring adorning the stem. The pipe was marked with what appeared to be a signature though I had trouble making out the name. The only other markings on the pipe were a 5 digit number around the bottom of the shank. Below are some photos of the pipe prior to being worked on.

Based on previous experience a heavily smoked pipe is frequently a very good smoking pipe. Then again it could just be a heavily smoked pipe by a slob. The rim was heavily layered in lava, the tobacco chamber well caked and the shank to stem joint looked like it had issues retaining a tight seal. When I pulled the stem from the stummel I saw a replaceable filter which someone must have thought to be irreplaceable. The briar ring on the stem appeared to have been a two piece ring glued together and since separated slightly. The most redeeming quantity was that the stem did not appear to be chewed on. My vivid mental image of the previous owner was a German tweed jacket wearing man with a bottomless tobacco pouch and no teeth. Well, this was going to be an interesting restoration.

Background

For researching this pipe, the first place I visited was pipephil.eu. Not sure how to proceed without a logo, name or country of manufacturer (COM), I started with a hunch, Germany. I had no evidence that this pipe had a German provenance but I had to start somewhere and the pipe did come to me from Germany. I clicked the German flag in the section that read “Search by country”.

(Germany — Pipes : Logos & Markings)

And there, third from the left was Aldo Morelli. Hmm, that kind of looks like the first name of the signature.

(Al-Ale — Pipes : Logos & Markings)

Denicotea? Barontini? Molina? I have the song Synchronicity by the Police blaring in my head after I read those three names. I had just recently restored a Barontini pipe, and last Saturday I received a brand new Molina pipe and the next pipe in the restoration queue is a Denicotea. Good thing I like the Police, the genius of Sting, the amazing guitar work by Andy Summers and the incredible drumming by Stuart Copeland – what’s not to love.

Back to the pipe, I continued to pipedia and searched Aldo Morelli. Here I found the following:

“Aldo Morelli is a fictional name. The brand Aldo Morelli has been registered for Denicotea on February 26th, 1992.^[5]

Depending on the different lines the pipes are made by Cesare Barontini, Gigi or Molina Pipe for Denicotea GmbH.

Stefan Petzuch points out this brand appears to have similarities to the Mauro Cateni pipe brand, in particular they are both fictional Italian brands by German companies, and both have the “HAND CUT” imprint on the stem as seen below. This may connect the Aldo Morelli brand to Gebr. Heinemann KG in Hamburg, who had registered the Mauro Cateni brand. Or perhaps there is a connection between Denicotea and Gebr. Heinemann KG, or perhaps these pipe brands simply used “Hand Cut” stems from the same source.” (Denicotea – Pipedia)

Like I said earlier, “this was going to be an interesting restoration”. I now had an imaginary signature on an imaginary brand for an Italian made German pipe. All I could think was, “What the heck?” Continuing down this rabbit hole, I typed in “Denicotea” into pipedia.org and was rewarded with,

“Willy Heineberg founded the company Denicotea in 1932 and began manufacturing and selling smoking accessories such as filters, filter inserts, cigarette holders and pipes.^[1] The company headquarters was initially in Cologne, but was relocated to Bergisch Gladbach after the Second World War.^[2]

Denicotea is actually the name of a silica gel filter, cigarette holders and care products for pipes and cigarette holders.

I still find it a bit confusing as Denicotea seems to be a company^[3] and a brand as well which is operated by COMPOSING-STUDIO GmbH^[4].” (Denicotea – Pipedia)

This brought me back to the whole musical synchronicity idea, a composing studio, really? Just when you think that reality can’t match fiction something like this smacks you in the head. Anyway, this pipe is likely to have been made in the 1990s in Italy by Cesare Barontini, Gigi or Molina Pipe for Denicotea Gebr. Heinemann KG in Hamburg. Confused? I was.

The Restoration

The pipe was taken to the workbench where a cleaned denim piece was laid to protect the work surface.

The poorly fitting stem made me think that was where I should begin. The tenon and stem face were heavily fouled with smoking residue. Thinking back to the disgusting filter from the “before” images, I thought that a saturated filter would allow moisture and dissolved yuck to seep around the tenon. This also made me wonder about the condition of the airway.

The tenon was far more dirty than one would expect.

And, the separating briar band would have allied more seepage of smoking residues.

I started cleaning the stem with 95% ethyl alcohol,cotton swabs and bristle pipe cleaners. The tenon was as dirty inside as outside.

I tried to lightly sand the stem face but this seemed like a bad idea since I was sure that I could not keep from sanding one side more than the other and affecting the overall fit of the stem to the shank.

My home-grown solution was to drill a 10 mm hole in a hardwood block of wood. This would fit the tenon snugly. And keep the stem perpendicular to the stem face.

The fit was good.

I then placed a piece of sandpaper over the block and used a cork hole borer to cut a hole in the sandpaper.

The problem of sanding unevenly was solved.

I carefully topped the shank face with a piece of sand paper laid flat on a countertop.

The subsequent fit of the mortise and tenon was restored and the fit was good.

The stem cleaning continued with a lot of 95% ethyl alcohol, cotton swabs and bristle pipe cleaners.

The fit and briar ring itself needed a bit of polyvinyl acrylate (CA, super glue) to help make them look finished. I used brown CA to fill in the gaps in the briar ring and black CA to fill the area between the acrylic stem and the briar ring. I first applied a layer of transparent tape to the stem. Then cleaned out the gap with alcohol and a cotton swab. Using a fly tying bodkin I applied brown CA to the briar ring on both gaps. This was then spritzed with a CA drying accelerator.

The gap between the stem and the briar ring was then filled with black CA again using the fly tying bodkin. This too was spitzed with a CA drying accelerator.

While the CA was still soft, I removed the tape. The black CA that lay outside of the gap on the tape peeled off with the tape, limiting the sanding I would have to do to the stem.

With the stem now looking much better, I turned my attention to the stummel. The reaming kit was gathered.

The PipNet did most of the work here.

The Smokingpipes Low Country Reamer and the General triangular scraper finished the scraping of the tobacco chamber. The chamber was then sanded with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel. The below photo shows a strange step at the bottom of the tobacco chamber.

Looking at the opposite side, there is no step but a patch of slight charring was evident.

The rim also appeared charred.

The stummel was taken to the sink for a scrubbing with a nylon brush and undiluted Murphy Oil Soap. The color of the nylon brush indicates how dirty the stummel was. The sap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.

A second scrubbing of the stummel was done using the same process. The nylon brush was less colored this time indicating progress.

Back at the workbench the stummel looked much better but the rim damage could also be clearly seen.

The rim was charred. This changed my vivid mental image again, now the previous owner was a German tweed jacket wearing man with a bottomless tobacco pouch and no teeth and clutched a torch lighter.

I lightly topped the rim on a piece of 220 sandpaper laid flat then started the shank cleaning. Both removed a lot of black material from the stummel. The airway of the shank was very encrusted with tar and required significant scraping with the dental scraper.

The topping of the rim with sandpaper was insufficient to redeem it. I used a couple of files to remove the charred briar. The bevel of the inside rim was gained using a 2 inch PVC pipe cap wrapped in sandpaper.

In an attempt to lighten or bleach the darkened briar I applied a saturated solution of oxalic acid by cotton swab.

I wetted the rim with several applications of the oxalic acid solution and let it sit for 45 minutes. The solution was then scrubbed and rinsed with copious amounts of tap water.

There remained a darkening which I did not like. I thought back to several conversations with Sascha Mertens about removing charred wood. Sascha is a German pipe restorer and all around great guy. Although he may start charging me consultant fees as he is becoming more well known here in the States and Canada and has helped big name restorers like Steve Laug recently. Anyway, He frequently uses a technique where petroleum jelly is applied to the charred area and allowed to sit. The charred area is then carefully scraped with a sharp knife to remove the char.

I did all of the above and as can be seen below it did indeed remove more of the darkened briar.

I finally gave up on trying to make the rim look pristine. The darkened briar would have to be worn as a mark of honor signifying the scars of previous battles. Next I wanted to further clean out any remaining residues from the bowl and shank so I packed both with cotton and saturated the cotton with 95% ethyl alcohol. While this was sitting, I also coated the briar of the stummel and stem ring with a layer of Before and After Restoration Balm. These were allowed to sit overnight.

The following day the cotton showed signs that additional tars had been liberated from the briar and deposited in the cotton.

The cotton was removed and the bowl and shank were cleaned again with alcohol dipped cotton swabs and pipe cleaners.

The remaining Restoration Balm was hand buffed from the stummel using an inside out athletic sock.

The stem pipe was taken to the buffer where I buffed the stem with white jewelers rouge. The pip then received several coats of carnauba wax applied with the buffer. The final step was a hand buffing of the pipe with a microfiber polishing cloth.

This pipe turned out pretty well overall. I am still thinking about what to do about the interior of the tobacco chamber. That step in the drilling bothers me perhaps, a sanding or maybe filling the step with JB Weld? If someone wants to adopt this pipe, I will let them decide. The small spot of charred briar would be taken care of with a bowl coating of a light layer of maple syrup and carbon powder. No sense in applying a bowl coating though before the step is addressed. The pipe feels wonderful in hand. The heavy shank fit for a 9mm pipe filter gives the piece a substantial heft. The rusticated finish is very pretty and is well accentuated by the smooth panel with the Aldo Morelli signature, the briar ring and the glossy black acrylic stem. The dimensions of the Aldo Morelli Bent pipe are:

Length: 5.53 in./ 140.46 mm.
- Weight: 2.36 oz./ 66.91 g.
- Bowl Height: 1.99 in./ 50.55 mm.
- Chamber Depth: 1.68 in./ 41.91 mm.
- Chamber Diameter: 0.80 in./ 20.32 mm. (Conically bored diameter is at the top)
- Outside Diameter: 1.57 in./ 39.88 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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Below are some photos of the completed Aldo Morelli Bent pipe.
A Denicotea Deluxe Hockey Restoration

November 5th, 2024
Photographed and written by

John M. Young

DENICOTEA arched over DELUXE on the left shank with HOCKEY over BRUYERE EXTRA on the right. 741L on the underside of the shank next to the stem.

Background

In a previous blog I wrote about the history about what little I found about Denicotea, I will link that post here, and include the information below:

“Pipedia.org has a short article on Denicotea. I will include it here in its entirety:

“Willy Heineberg founded the company Denicotea in 1932 and began manufacturing and selling smoking accessories such as filters, filter inserts, cigarette holders and pipes.^[1] The company headquarters was initially in Cologne, but was relocated to Bergisch Gladbach after the Second World War.^[2]

Denicotea is actually the name of a silica gel filter, cigarette holders and care products for pipes and cigarette holders.

I still find it a bit confusing as Denicotea seems to be a company^[3] and a brand as well which is operated by COMPOSING-STUDIO GmbH^[4].

Brands

Adsorba

Adsorba is a fantasy series of pipes produced by Luigi Crugnola for the German market.

Aldo Morelli

Aldo Morelli is a fictional name. The brand Aldo Morelli has been registered for Denicotea on February 26th, 1992.^[5]

Depending on the different lines the pipes are made by Cesare Barontini, Gigi or Molina Pipe for Denicotea GmbH.

Stefan Petzuch points out this brand appears to have similarities to the Mauro Cateni pipe brand, in particular they are both fictional Italian brands by German companies, and both have the “HAND CUT” imprint on the stem as seen bellow. This may connect the Aldo Morelli brand to Gebr. Heinemann KG in Hamburg, who had registered the Mauro Cateni brand. Or perhaps there is a connection between Denicotea and Gebr. Heinemann KG, or perhaps these pipe brands simply used “Hand Cut” stems from the same source.” (Denicotea – Pipedia)

Interesting and weird are the two qualifiers that come to mind in reading that. The four makers mentioned in the article; Luigi Crgnola, Cesare Barontini, Gig and Molina are all Italian pipe manufacturers. Where does the MADE IN ENGLAND stamp on the example on pipephil.eu or the stamp on the pipe I purchased come in, I cannot say. I can say that I am not the first person to have little success researching the origins of Denicotea pipes. Dal Stanton, who is far more diligent in his background research than I, had a French made Denicotea. He traced its origins to the St. Claude area but not to a specific maker. Dal’s blog was posted on Steve Laug’s rebornpipes.com site. Here is the link to Dal Stanton’s blog post: https://rebornpipes.com/2016/09/29/nice-find-in-plovdiv-bulgaria-denicotea-deluxe-curling-bruyere-extra/”

This Denicotea has neither the Country of Manufacture (COM) stamps of England nor France. It does have a shape number 147L which I could find no corresponding match with brands associated with Denicotea. This pipe’s heritage appears to remain a mystery.

The Restoration

The restoration began with the reaming of the tobacco chamber. There was little cake to remove indicating that the pipe had not been used heavily. This premise was later shattered. The chamber was rather narrow making me use the Kleen-Reem, General triangular scraper and the smokingpipes Low Country reaming knife to clear the cake.

The below photo illustrates the very small amount of cake present. The bowl was sanded with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel and no evidence of heat damage was observed on the bare briar.

The rim had no lava deposits again indicating that the pipe had not been smoked too heavily.

The stummel was taken to the sink and scrubbed with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon scrub brush.

Next came the cleaning of the shank. This is where I realized that this pipe had indeed been smoked a good deal. For all the maintenance that the bowl had received the shank had been severely neglected. It was very full of tar and smoking residue, also known as yuck. Now, to cut the previous owner some slack, the shank was not easy to clean as the airway appeared to be bored at 9.5 mm. The plastic tenon was inserted into this bore and left with a step. There was another step at the bowl end of the airway where the drilling draft hole went from a normal small hole to the 9.5 mm. These two steps had accumulated a great deal of yuck and could not be reached with dental scrapers to help clear the yuck. Numerous cotton swabs dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol were used along with a nylon shank brush. I seemed to make little progress as the cotton swabs continued to emerge heavily stained with yuck. I then decided to try stuffing the tobacco chamber and the shank with cotton, filling them with 95% ethyl alcohol and allowing them to sit overnight.

The stem was not much better than the shank. I plugged the button end with my finger and poured some ethyl alcohol into the airway. Here I scrubbed with a nylon shank brush.

The alcohol was allowed to drain into the sink. It was full of yuck.

The stem was designed for use with 9 mm filters and judging by the accumulated yuck, they had not been used as I don’t think a filter could have been inserted with all of the residue in the stem.

I alternated between using Castile soap and 95% ethyl alcohol hoping that one of the two would help reduce the yuck.

It was about here that I noticed the fine scratched immediately above the button.

The scratches were present on both the top and bottom sides of the stem.

The stem was returned to the workbench where I continued cleaning the stem with more traditional methods. Bristle pipe cleaners and cotton swabs dipped in alcohol were used. I also wrapped small 5 cm square pieces of paper towel around a rat tail file and scrubbed the airway with these dipped in alcohol. Eventually I was victorious and the stem cleaned.

To address the scratches I sanded the button end of the stem with 400, 600 and 1000 grit sanding sponges. I used a small circular pattern while sanding. This eliminated the scratches.

While the stummel was still soaking with the cotton and alcohol I picked the old fill from the briar. There were two big fills on the left.

One large fill and one smaller fill on the right.

And two larger fills on the rim which were picked free of old fill material.

The whole stem was sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 400-3500 grits. Between each sponge I rubbed the stem with mineral oil and wiped it with a paper towel.

This is where day one ended. The pipe was to sit overnight allowing the alcohol to soften and dissolve the yuck in the airway.

The next day I returned to find the cotton, as expected, quite stained with removed yuck.

The cotton was removed and I tried cleaning the airway with cotton swabs and the 5 mm paper towel pieces wrapped around the rattail file.

The cotton alcohol had worked but not to the extent I had hoped for. Many more cotton swabs and scrubbings with alcohol yielded nothing but more stained swabs.

This prompted me to repack the bowl and shank with cotton and repeat the overnight soaking.

Since the cotton helb the alcohol in contact with the walls of the airway and was not dripping alcohol I went ahead with the filling of the pits. For this I used brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) and briar dust. I applied the CA into the pit and then pressed some briar dust into the wet CA. These cured almost immediately. The subsequent fill was filed with a small flat file and smoothed with a 400 grit sanding sponge. The three photos below show the first application of CA/briar dust.

The filling process was repeated for each of the fills.

Where needed the brown CA was added a third time without briar dust and allowed to cure. The pipe was again allowed to sit overnight enabling the alcohol to further dissolve and remove the yuck.

The next day, I revisited the pipe.

The cotton was again stained with removed yuck. I removed the cotton.

The staining was far less than the previous attempt. I started cleaning with alcohol dipped cotton swabs. At first I thought that no progress had been made then suddenly the swabs began to come out with less staining. I had finally removed the yuck.

The stamps were covered with painters tape to protect them during the sanding. The stummel and stem junction was sanded with sanding sponges 400-3500. Between each sponge the stummel was wiped with a make-up pad moistened with 95% ethyl alcohol.

The pipe was then worked with micro-mesh pads from 4000-12000. The stummel was again wiped with a make-up pad dipped in alcohol. The stem was rubbed with Obsidian Oil and wiped with a paper towel between micro-mesh pads.

The pipe was taken to the buffer where I buffed the entire pipe with Blue DIamond on a clean wheel. After the buffing compound was thoroughly wiped off the pipe received several coats of carnauba wax. The final step was a hand buffing with a microfiber polishing cloth.

This pipe is a perfect example of how my prejudice led me to inaccurate conclusions. Yeah, the tobacco chamber looked clean and there was no lava on the rim, both indicating a little used pipe, only to discover a heavily tarred mess of an airway. Overall I am pleased with the finished restoration. The briar grain is nice, the new fills are a bit too noticeable. In hindsight, I am thinking that a contrast dye of black would have concealed them and accentuated the briar grain. That might be another project for this winter when I am hunkered down avoiding the cold and snow. The stem polished up very nicely. The long sleek glossy black vulcanite is a great contrast with the briar. I do really like this shape, though it doesn’t quite fit a cutty nor a zulu. I guess that’s why it is called a Hockey. The dimensions of the Denicotea Deluxe Hockey are:
- Length: 6.66 in./ 169.16 mm.
- Weight: 1.18 oz./ 33.70 g.
- Bowl Height: 1.77 in./ 44.96 mm.
- Chamber Depth: 1.42 in./ 36.07 mm.
- Chamber Diameter: 0.67 in./ 17.02 mm.
- Outside Diameter: 1.30 in./ 33.02 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

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Below are some photos of the finished Denicotea Deluxe Hockey.
A Millard Dublin Restoration

March 14th, 2024

Photographed and written by

John M. Young

The first time I saw a Millard pipe I thought, “Cool”. This would have been several years ago long before I started blogging about restorations. I had always liked researching the pipes I was working with. I figured they had to have been made after WWII due to the amount of aluminum in the mortise and tenon. In my searching I found Steve Laug’s blog about two Millard pipes that he had restored back in 2015. I was fascinated by his blog and restorations. This may have actually been one of the first times I had visited Steve’s blog rebornpipes.com.

The two above photos are my first Millard pipe. I loved the shape and how well it smoked.

I recently acquired another Millar pipe, the subject of this restoration. The Millard Dublin was not specifically the target of the bid and subsequent win, it was just a bonus. The lot came to me from Fort Lauderdale Florida. The Dublin shape has long been a favorite of mine and I was looking forward to the restoration. It however did have to wait in que for about a month for its turn at the workbench.

The Pipe

When the pip arrived it appeared to be in well used condition. Below are some photos of the Millard Dublin prior to any work being done.

This Dublin needed some work. It did not look like it had any serious issues, just a lot of small ones. The most egregious was the damage to the rear rim. There was the typical dirt and grime of an old pipe, lava build up on the rim, a substantial cake in the tobacco chamber, an oxidized stem and numerous dents and dings on the briar. All of these things indicated a pipe that had been carried and smoked a good deal by a previous owner. It also indicated a good smoking pipe.

A bit about Millard Pipes

Millard pipes were another brand that I refer to as coupon pipes. Back in the late 1940s through the 1960s many pipe tobacco brands would enclose a coupon or certificate within the pipe tobacco packaging. These coupons could be collected then mailed, usually with a small amount of cash, to the company in exchange for a new pipe. Kentucky Club was one brand of pipe tobacco that used this marketing technique. Kentucky Club was a part of the Penn Tobacco company. I did a series of 4 Penn Tobacco co. pipes earlier this year, they included the following which I will link to their respective names: Vox Pop, Broadcaster, Bruce Peters and Silver Mac Duff. I will defer to Steve Laug’s well explained history of Millard:

“When I came across the Millard – the Perfect Pipe coupon in the two boxes of Kentucky Club that I found I was fascinated with the look of the pipe. It reminded me of the Keyser Hygienic pipes that I had restored over the years. The stem that fit into the metal mortise shank insert and the tubes on the inside of the stem and the shank were similar. While the Keyser tubing in the shank looked identical the one in the stem was different. Keyser was directed downward while the Millard was two straight tubes that met in the mortise. They did not touch but the metal chamber became a condensing chamber, or as they call it an Action Trap, for the smoke and collected the moisture before it continued through the tube in the stem. I looked up the brand online and found the following advertisement postcard that shows the way the system works. I found that the stems were interchangeable between the shapes that the pipe came in. The straight stems could be easily transferred from pipe to pipe. In fact the pipe originally came with an extra or replacement stem. The pipe came in a sandblast and a smooth finish in six shapes – apple, Dublin, billiard, pear, pot and bent. It came in two sizes: medium or large. In the advertisement below you can see that the pipe cost $3. I also found that Mastercraft supplied the pipes through the coupon sales. Knowing a bit of history about the company I know that they did not make pipe so they were sourced from the original manufacturer.”

Used with permission of Steve Laug – personal communication.

(https://rebornpipes.com/2015/12/11/a-pair-of-millard-perfect-pipes-a-sandblast-apple-and-dublin/)

The Restoration

I started with a clean denim piece on the work surface. The stem of the Millard Dublin was very oxidized. I remembered my previous experience with the Millard Bent Billiard. It too had severe oxidation that I was not able to get rid of. Though that was my earlier days of restoring pipes.

I began with rubbing the surface of the stem with 0000 steel wool. I hoped to get rid of the outer layer of oxidized vulcanite and allow the Before and After Deoxidizing solution access to the underlying rubber. Even after the steel wool the brown was very evident.

I inserted a pipe cleaner into the stem to act as a hanger and submerged the stem into the Deoxidizing (deox, as I call it) solution. I figured that it would have to be in the solution for at least a couple of hours.

While I was waiting to forget the stem, I started reaming the stummel. I gathered the reaming gear; PipNet with #2 blades , Smokingpipes Low Country knife and the General triangular scraper on the plastic coated envelope.

The cake was hard and very brittle but succumbed to the PipNet without much trouble. Further scraping was done with the other two tools and the chamber was sanded with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel and 320 sandpaper wrapped around a Sharpie marker. The bare briar of the tobacco chamber was free of any damage and looked good.

Next was the scraping of the rim.The rim had an inward angled bevel that was covered in a layer of lava. This was scraped off with a sharp pocket knife with careful scraping and scrubbed with a scotchbrite pad dipped in 99% isopropyl alcohol.

With the rim mostly clean, the stummel was taken to the sink and scrubbed with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a medium stiff toothbrush. The stummel was rinsed with warm water, dried with a cotton dish towel and returned to the workbench. I then moistened a make-up pad with 99% isopropyl alcohol and wiped the stummel. Some discoloration

occurred to the pad indicating that some of the finish and original stain were being removed. Most of the discoloration came from the rim. I used a 1000 grit sanding sponge with the corner dipped in alcohol to lightly scrub the rim. I guess it was dirtier than I thought it was.

I do not like working on more than one pipe at a time. I will inevitably forget to do something to one while getting sidetracked on the other one. In this case I forgot two things, one was to document the shank cleaning and two, the stem in deox. It was about six hours from where I left off with the Millard Dublin and when I returned. I had forgotten the stem was in the deox and feared that it had been in for too long. I retrieved the stem and wiped the Before and After Deoxidizing solution from it. I ran a couple of pipe cleaners through the airway to make sure no solution remained. The airway was then cleaned with 99% isopropyl alcohol and bristle pipe cleaners on the inside and Soft Scrub on make-up pads on the outside.

The next task was picking out the old fill material. The manufacturers used a soft red tinted fill material that is not very becoming.

Ewwwe.

Next was the refilling of the pits, gouges, rim damage, etc… Since this would require sanding I taped the stamps with painters tape.

In order to show a step by step process for fills, I attempted to photograph each step. Some worked better than others but I think this may be helpful for those who haven’t done this many times. The things I use are briar dust mainly from the sandpaper when topping a stummel, brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue), Thin CA and a dental scraper. Oh, it’s also a good idea to wear nitrile gloves to keep the CA off your fingers. I usually forget this.

Below two pits are pictured.

I use the dental scraper to scoop up a little bit of the briar dust. The dust is placed onto the pit. I then use the back of the scraper to press the dust into the pit with a bit of pressure.

I then use the shaft of the dental scraper to brush off extra briar dust without knocking briar dust out of the pit.

I then use a fly tying bodkin (long needle) to dip into the Thin CA and get some onto the bodkin. The CA is then touched to the edge of the spot to fill. The CA soaks into the dust and bonds the dust to the edges of the pit. I got a little carried away with the application in the photo below and used a bit too much CA. That just means more sanding.

The CA is then filed smooth with a flat needle file (I file because I am a bit lazy. Filing means I don’t sand as much) and 400 sandpaper or sanding sponge.

There were several pits and scratches on this stummel which required filling. Below are some more. The CA fills are dark but they are not gross red and they sand very smooth.

Rebuilding the damaged rim used a similar technique just with more layers. The additional layers were needed to build up the damaged area to maintain the lines and shape of the pipe. I did not want to top this stummel. The damage was localized to the rear and not the whole rim.

I attempted to photograph step by step again with this rebuilding.

Below is a close up of the damaged rim.

First I laid a bead of brown CA on the damaged area.

Then I dipped the wet CA into the briar dust pushing the stummel into the dust with a bit of pressure.

Next, I filed the surface to fit the existing shape of the stummel.

The excess CA/briar dust fill was filed away. The surface needed additional material to fill the damage. Next two photos try to show this.

Another bead of CA was applied to the rim. This time I pinched briar dust between my index finger and thumb and pressed this pinch onto the rim. The next two photos show this pinched fill.

This pinched fill was then filed and smoothed with a 400 sanding sponge.

In the photo below, you can see the briar dust appears “dry” or light colored. This is because it has CA bonding it from the bottom and not bonding it throughout. I applied the Thin CA to this “dry” briar dust. The Thin CA soaked into it and bonded it all together.

Below you can see the darker colored briar dust fill. This is dust that is fully bonded together with CA.

This fill was then smoothed with a 400 sanding sponge.

In the photos below you can see that I have tried to rebuild the sharp edge where the rim meets the side of the bowl.

Now all these dark fills are kind of an eyesore. I thought maybe a contrast dye with black Fiebing’s Leather Dye sanded away would accentuate the grain and mask all the dark fills. I gathered the dying gear. The pipe cleaner used from the last dye job was still there. Recycle.

The stummel was held by the aluminum of the mortise, dyed black and flamed. The flaming burns off the alcohol base of the Fiebing’s and sets the dye into the briar.

The stummel was then wiped with a paper towel and returned to the workbench. Back at the bench I started lightly sanding the stummel with a 320 sanding sponge. The sponge was wiped frequently on the denim of the work surface to clean the black briar dust from the sponge.

For brevity I will not go into great detail about the sanding and micro-meshing of the pipe and stem. I’ll just say that they were sanded together using the sanding sponges in sequence from 600-3500. Between each sponge the stummel was wiped with a make-up pad wetted with alcohol. The stem was wiped off with a paper towel. The micro-meshing was done with 4000-12000 micro-mesh pads in sequence. The stummel wiping was the same as above. The stem wiping included a drop of Obsidian Oil rubbed with finger and wiped with a paper towel.

The final step was to use the buffer to apply several coats of carnauba wax to the pipe.

Overall I am quite pleased with this pipe. I wish the stem would have cleaned up better. After all the time in the deox, scrubbing with Soft Scrub, the sanding, etc… it still is not the black that I would like it to be. The fills did turn out well. The reconstruction of the back rim also looks good. The contrast stain did exactly what I wanted it to do and I think it looks nice. I have yet to smoke this Millard but if it is anything like the bent Millard it will prove to be a great smoking pipe. I do hope that you have found something here useful towards your restorations or the care of your pipes. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe. Thank you very much for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.

Below are some photos of the finished Millard Dublin.