Photographed and written by

John M. Young

I have said it before and I’ll say it again, “I blame Sascha Mertens for my Denicotea fascination.”  Sascha is a pipeman from Germany and has become one of the few people that I communicate with on a near daily basis.  When I asked him what shape this Denicotea is, he replied “Quaterbendzublin danish Style!

This thing is absolutely danish! Reminds me of an old Stanwell….”  Hmm, “Quarterbendzublin”.  That looks more like some Mayan word than anything I was familiar with but, I completely see what he was saying.  I think I’ll just use the “072” though.

The previous owner was apparently not aware that they were not supposed to have a cake build-up in a meerschaum lined pipe or that wiping off the rim after a smoke is a possibility.  Thus started the list of things to address with this restoration.  There was one ugly fill on the left side of the shank that would have to be removed.  The oxidation of the vulcanite would have to go.  I was not sure how well the rim would clean-up, nor exactly what to do with the meerschaum part of the rim.  Oh well, it will all get sorted out.

Background

Fortunately, for me, I have done a few Denicotea restorations.  This makes the writing of this section easy.  I can just recycle research from previous blogs.  Yeah, I’m a Generation X slacker.

“Pipedia.org has a short article on Denicotea.  I will include it here in its entirety:

“Willy Heineberg founded the company Denicotea in 1932 and began manufacturing and selling smoking accessories such as filters, filter inserts, cigarette holders and pipes.^[1] The company headquarters was initially in Cologne, but was relocated to Bergisch Gladbach after the Second World War.^[2]

Denicotea is actually the name of a silica gel filter, cigarette holders and care products for pipes and cigarette holders.

I still find it a bit confusing as Denicotea seems to be a company^[3] and a brand as well which is operated by COMPOSING-STUDIO GmbH^[4].

Brands

Adsorba

Adsorba is a fantasy series of pipes produced by Luigi Crugnola for the German market.

Aldo Morelli

Aldo Morelli is a fictional name. The brand Aldo Morelli has been registered for Denicotea on February 26th, 1992.^[5]

Depending on the different lines the pipes are made by Cesare Barontini, Gigi or Molina Pipe for Denicotea GmbH.

Stefan Petzuch points out this brand appears to have similarities to the Mauro Cateni pipe brand, in particular they are both fictional Italian brands by German companies, and both have the “HAND CUT” imprint on the stem as seen bellow. This may connect the Aldo Morelli brand to Gebr. Heinemann KG in Hamburg, who had registered the Mauro Cateni brand. Or perhaps there is a connection between Denicotea and Gebr. Heinemann KG, or perhaps these pipe brands simply used “Hand Cut” stems from the same source.” (Denicotea – Pipedia)

Interesting and weird are the two qualifiers that come to mind in reading that.  The four makers mentioned in the article; Luigi Crgnola, Cesare Barontini, Gig and Molina are all Italian pipe manufacturers.  Where does the MADE IN ENGLAND stamp on the example on pipephil.eu or the stamp on the pipe I purchased come in, I cannot say.  I can say that I am not the first person to have little success researching the origins of Denicotea pipes.  Dal Stanton, who is far more diligent in his background research than I, had a French made Denicotea.  He traced its origins to the St. Claude area but not to a specific maker.  Dal’s blog was posted on Steve Laug’s rebornpipes.com site.  Here is the link to Dal Stanton’s blog post:  https://rebornpipes.com/2016/09/29/nice-find-in-plovdiv-bulgaria-denicotea-deluxe-curling-bruyere-extra/”

Now for this Denicotea 072 or as my German accomplice calls it, a “Quaterbendzublin danish Style!”, the world may never know where, when or by whom this pipe was made.  I wonder if the added mystique adds to the smoking pleasure?

The Restoration

Dang, that’s a good looking pipe.  Even all dirty and sitting on a cleaned piece of denim at the workbench.

I started by lightly sanding the surface oxidation from the stem.  I’m not sure what to call the mortise attachment piece of vulcanite that is glued to the shank.  Maybe stem one, the below and stem 2 the attached?

The stem was skewered with a pipe cleaner to act as a hanger in the Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer (deox) and suspended in the solution.

Since this is a meerschaum lined pipe I relied on the Smoingpipes Low Country Reamer and the General triangular scraper for the reaming this very conical tobacco chamber.

Oh how I wish that someone had explained to the previous owner that meers could be washed out with warm water after a smoke and that cake is not a good nor necessary thing.  Oh well, the scraping continued.

After the scraping and a bit of work with a 410 gauge brass bore brush, I used cotton swabs dipped in alcohol to clean the remaining cake from the meerschaum.

The lava on the rim was softened with saliva and scraped with a sharp pocket knife.

I cleaned the airway of the shank with several bristle pipe cleaners dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.  Cotton swabs also dipped were used to clean out the mortise.

The stummel was taken to the sink where it was scrubbed with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a nylon brush.  The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stumel was dried with a cotton hand towel.

Back at the workbench the stummel was wiped with an alcohol wetted make-up pad.  Once the alcohol had evaporated I wrapped the briar shank with masking tape to protect it from the sanding of the vulcanite part of the shank.

I wanted to preserve the logo as much as possible so a piece of Scotch tape was cut and placed over the logo.  This proved tricky to sand as I didn’t want to round the edges where the vulcanite would meet the stem.  I decided to give the rim top a beeswax coating to protect it from future lava and make the meerschaum  more resistant to wear.  I heated a small glass jar of beeswax in a pan of water on the stove top.  This allows the liquid beeswax to remain liquid longer as the hot water allows the wax to cool more slowly.

The tobacco chamber was plugged with a cork.  I picked up an assortment of different sized corks from Amazon and that has been much easier whenever I need to plug a chamber.

The meerschaum was heated with a heat gun then painted with liquid beeswax.

The beeswax cooled quickly and was then heated again with the heat gun.  The cork remained in place.  As the beeswax was remelted excess dripped off the stummel and was caught by a strategically placed tin.

The cork was removed and the rim was wiped with a clean dry paper towel.

Below is a photo of the newly rewaxed rim back at the workbench.  Please ignore the photobombing S. Johnson pipe in the background.

The stem had been soaking in deox for a little over two hours.  I removed it and let it drip excess solution back into the jar.

The stem was then vigorously rubbed on a coarse shop rag to rid it of remaining deox solution and some of the oxidized vulcanite.

Next the deox within the stem was cleaned out.  Apparently I didn’t clean the stem prior to the deox dip.  Darn old people…

The stem, both parts, were sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 320-3500 grit.  Between each sponge I used Mark Hooovers new product, Hard Rubber Balm (HRB) rubbed on with my fingers and wiped off with a clean dry paper towel.  Mark sent me a sample of the HRB and asked me to try it and give my impressions.  So here they are, the HRB is thicker or more viscous than mineral oil.  As such it tends to fold the sanding sponges more than mineral oil.  A more careful wiping of the HRB from the stem with a paper towel lessens this.  The fouled sponges are easily cleaned with a little bit of alcohol rubbed on with a finger tip then wiping them off on the denim surface protecting cloth.  The HRB excels as a coating of stems after they have been restored.  Since it is a heavier or thicker oil it should evaporate more slowly from the vulcanite.  I really like how HRB works for preserving stems.  How well it lasts over time is still undiscovered as I have only been using it for a couple of weeks but it looks like it is a solid competitor of Obsidian Oil and should actually last longer based on it’s properties.

The stems were then worked with micro-mesh pads in grits from 4000-12000.  Again the HRB was rubbed on and wiped off between pads.

The stem was then taken to the buffer where I buffed it with white buffing compound on the dedicated white wheel.

The buffing compound was wiped from the stem and I cleaned the logo area with alcohol.  I used a white acrylic modeling paint to repaint the depressions of the logo stamp.

The entire pipe was returned to the buffer where it was given several coats of carnauba wax.

The final step was a hand buffing of the pipe with a microfiber polishing cloth.

I think this Denicotea Quaterbendzublin Danish Style!, hmm, I just can’t do that.  I think this Denicotea 072 turned out beautifully. The visual appeal is very much to my liking.  The light weight along with the bend make it a very comfortable pipe to clench and the longer stem keeps the smoke out of my eyes. Though not uncomfortable in hand the pipe does not fit into my hand as well as many others.  The rustications add character and seem perfect for the shape with the briar grain on the right side matching the lines of the rim.  The stem polished up very well with its high gloss black accentuating the rustic mahogany of the briar.  The dimensions of the Denicotea 072 are follows:

Length:  5.06 in./ 128.52 mm.

Weight:  1.42 oz./ 40.26 g.

Bowl Height 2.00 in./  50.80 mm. 

Chamber Depth: 1.60 in./ 40.64 mm.

Chamber Diameter:  0.67 in./ 17.02 mm.

Outside Diameter:  1.68 in./ 42.67 mm.

I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations.  If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons.  Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover. This one is going in the personal collection.

Below are some photos of the finished Denicotea 072.