This is something that you don’t see everyday: An original unfired early 1900s Frank Dublin pipe with a nickel plated band, horn stem and threaded bone reverse tenon. This pipe was part of an eclectic estate lot which contained a couple of old pipes in unsmoked condition. This was the first of that lot I have tackled. The stamps on this pipe read, Frank (in a cursive script) over ITALIAN BRIAR. There is no shape number. The band is stamped with three five pointed stars over 3 faux hallmarks (an anchor, a star and a walking figure with a bird-like head) over NICKEL PLATED. Judging by the horn stem with an orific style button and the bone tenon, I am guessing this pipe was made prior to 1920.
Below are some photos of the Frank Dublin prior to it receiving any work:
Okay, this is more of a clean-up than a full restoration since the pipe has never been smoked. And, yes, keeping to the original aesthetic is usually paramount to a restoration but, I am pretty sure that there is briar grain under that stain that needs to see the light of day. The finish will be removed. The stem sanded and polished and the whole thing made beautiful. All without having to clear the yuck from a shank – YAY!
Background
The name Frank refers to Sam Frank Sr. who started building a pipe empire in 1900. I will let the article for pipdia.org explain this, “In the year 1900 Sam Frank Sr. started his own business, selling pipes and other tobacco items. His original office was located at 20 W. 17th Street, NYC. He was also closely associated with the sales staff of Wm. DeMuth & Co., selling their line of pipes. It was at this time that Mr. Frank first met Ferdinand Feuerbach and formed what would be a lifelong friendship. Mr. Feuerbach started working for the DeMuth company in 1897 and by 1903 had become the production manager. In 1919, when Mr. Frank needed an experienced pipe man to run his pipe factory, located at 168 Southern Blvd., in the Bronx, he persuaded his old friend Ferdinand to join him. Mr. Feuerbach is credited with developing DeMuth’s popular Royal DeMuth and Hesson Guard Milano pipelines. In 1922, when S. M. Frank purchased the Manhattan Briar Pipe Co. the company incorporated. In 1933, the paper Medico filter was introduced along with the Medico brand line of pipes. The Medico filter is the “original” and most absorbent paper filter on the market that is recognized by pipe smokers world-wide. Filtered pipe smoking, a debatable issue among pipe smokers, reduces tars and nicotine in the smoke stream to make a “safer” smoke.” (S. M. Frank & Co. – Pipedia) (italics are mine)
As for the year that this ppe was produced, I found an article on S.M. Frank which states, “The earliest recorded location of the S. M. Frank pipe factory was 292 Ave. B in Manhattan in 1903. This was their factory until the late 1910s, when they moved to 168 Southern Blvd. in the Bronx.” (https://www.14to42.net/21street.html) The above quote from pipedia.org mentions that Frank, “In 1919, when Mr. Frank needed an experienced pipe man to run his pipe factory” (S. M. Frank & Co. – Pipedia). These two pieces of information indicate that the Frank pipe factory was established in 1903 and produced pipes through 1919 and beyond. Judging by the orific style stem of this pipe, I am assuming that it was made in the Frank factory located in the Bronx of New York City. Steve Laug, of rebornpipes.com, discusses the orific button in depth (https://rebornpipes.com/2013/05/17/whatever-happened-to-the-orific-button/). In this post he notes that pipes with orific buttons in his collection date from 1850s-1912. Personally I do not think that I have ever seen an orific button on any pipe from later than 1920. This reinforces my claim that this Frank Dublin was made prior to 1920. More specifically between 1903 and 1919.
The Restoration
As typical with my restorations, I began with a clean denim piece. No tar stains from this old girl. There would be a bit of black sanding dust though.
The annoying sticker and its old adhesive would have to go.
The sticker was scraped free and the stubborn adhesive removed with 95% ethyl alcohol on a cotton swab.
The stummel was taken to the sink for a scrubbing with Murphy Oil Soap and a medium toothbrush. The Murphy’s removed the century worth of dirt and grime and was rinsed with warm water. The stummel was dried with a cotton dish towel and returned to the workbench.
The stummel looked much better and I could see briar grain peeking through the layers of stain.
I first tried 95% ethyl alcohol on a make-up pad to free the briar.
Next, I tried acetone on a make-up pad.. The chemical solvents made advances on removing the finish and more grain was apparent.
I resorted to physical rather than chemical removal and was rewarded with a lovely contrast stained piece of briar. The stummel was sanded with a 320 grit sanding sponge, removing the outer layer of black stained wood.
Another wipe with acetone on a make-up pad removed yet more stain.
The rim was lightly topped with 400 grit sandpaper laid flat on a countertop. I did not have to sand away dents of ding, just the stained briar.
Next I started sanding the stem. I first wrapped the nickel plated band with painters tape to protect it from the sanding. I then used a series of sanding sponges from 600-3500 grits. Between each sponge I wiped the stem with a make-up pad wetted with alcohol. The stem was looking very good after the sanding.
The stummel sanding revealed an old fill at the front of the stummel. The old fill material was picked out with a fly tying bodkin. The new fill was made with brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) and briar dust.
I placed a drop of brown CA into the depression then scooped up a small mound of briar dust with a dental scraper. The briar dust was placed onto the wet CA and pressed into the pit. The CA cures very quickly with the dust and allows sanding within seconds. The new fill was brushed off with a brass brush to remove the excess briar dust then the new fill was sanded with a 400 grit sanding sponge. This was a large fill and it required repeated applications of CA and briar dust.
The stamps on the shank were covered with painters tape and the band was retaped for their protection. The stummel was then sanded with the series of sanding sponges from 600-3500. Between each sponge I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad wetted with alcohol.
The protective tape was removed and the stem and stummel were micro-meshed with pads 4000-12000. Again, between each pad I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad wetted with alcohol.
The entire pipe was given a coat of Before and After Restoration Balm. The balm was allowed to soak into the stem and stummel for 20 minutes.
The Restoration Balm was wiped off with an inside out athletic sock, revealing the beautiful old briar.
To raise the shine on the stem I hand polished it using Before and After Fine Polish on a soft cotton cloth.
The Fine Polish was followed by Before and After Extra Fine Polish, again hand polished with a soft cloth.
The Frank Dublin was then taken to the buffer for several coats of carnauba wax.
This was a nice relaxing restoration which turned out wonderfully. The previous stain did a fine job of staining the briar and when sanded allowed a beautiful contrast stain. The horn stem has aged very well and was fortunately never attacked by beetles. I have to admit that the feel of a horn stem is not bad on the teeth. I think a non-orific button would make it even more comfortable. The coloring of the horn is a feature that I appreciate the most. I am sure that this pipe will find its way to its next steward who may take it into the next century.
The dimensions of this unfired darling are:
Length: 5.68 in./ 144.27 mm.
Weight: 1.13 oz./ 32.20 g.
Bowl Height: 1.85 in./ 46.99 mm.
Chamber Depth: 1.48 in./ 37.59 mm.
Chamber Diameter: 0.76 in./ 19.30 mm.
Outside Diameter: 1.30 in./ 33.02 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.
Below are some photos of the finished Frank Dublin.
Decisions, decisions. That is what I was thinking before selecting this Telford’s Canadian for the next restoration. The SilverKing and the no-name billiard were looking for love but it all went to the Telford’s.
I have a few restoration blogs finished and scheduled for publication on Tuesday and Thursday mornings. I figured that I could try my hand at a restoration that might require some extra time and I didn’t want to feel rushed with a self-imposed deadline. This Telford’s has a cracked bowl and will be my second attempt at using the Charles Lemon pinning technique (I linked it so you can read the original).
I had never heard of Telford’s as a pipe maker and assumed it to be a tobacco shop which had stamped it’s name on a pipe made by a London based pipe maker. Why London? Well, the stamps on the bottom of the shank read TELFORD”S in the center on the end of the shank by the stem there was a 296, I assumed was a shape number. There was a circular MADE over IN over LONDON with the “IN” inside the circle and the “MADE and LONDON forming the circle and an E stamped on the end of the shank. Below are some photos of the Telford’s as it appeared prior to work being done.
Oh yeah, some serious work would be required to get this old girl back into the game. Obviously there was the cracked bowl to repair. There were some big fills to be made on the left heel area and the right shank. The stem was severely oxidized with some deep tooth imprints and a layer of calcium. The bowl itself was caked with carbon and the subsequent lava flow onto the rim.
Background
Normally the first place I go when researching a brand is to pipedia.org. The search for “Telford’s” met with “no results matching the query”. Strike one. The second place I usually visit is pipphil.eu. Here the “Telford’s” search led me to the following:
One question remained, who made this pipe? I started with Comoy’s due to the fact that I had seen a couple of mentions of Comoy’s pipes on Telford’s website. Comoy’s shape chart from pipedia.org verified that the 296 shape was indeed a Canadian.
(https://pipedia.org/wiki/Comoy%27s_Shape_Number_Chart). That was enough proof for me. Using the Telford’s shop website as a timeline source the pipe was made from the early 1980s-present. The pipe did appear to have been heavily used with worn sandblast and heavy oxidation so I assumed it was used heavily during the 1980s and 1990s. That call to Telford’s might provide a more narrow date.
I was able to contact Brian Telford at his shop and he was quite gracious with his time. He said that this pipe would have been for the 1970-1980s. During this time Comoy’s would offer lots, usually a gross, of their “seconds”. These were pipes that had imperfect blasts or fills which made them ineligible for sale as “Comoy’s” pipes. Mr. Telford explained that Comoys made a stamp for Telford’s and stamped the pipes for the shop (personal communication with Brian Telford 7-30-2024).
This narrowed down the maker and date of production of this Telford’s 296 Canadian made by Comoy’s of London. Now it was time to return this old girl to service.
The Restoration
The restoration began with a light buffing of the stem with 0000 steel wool to remove the calcium and outermost oxidation.
A pipe cleaner was inserted into the tenon end of the stem as a hanger and the pipe was placed into Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer. And allowed to soak overnight.
The reaming tools were assembled and put to work.
The PipNet with its #2 blades did most of the reaming. The #3 blades were too large and the tobacco chamber needed a good deal of scraping after the PipNet.
Below you can see a much better photo of the cracked bowl from inside the chamber.
The chamber did show signs of light spider webbing all around the interior of the chamber.
The stummel was taken to the sink for a scrubbing with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a medium toothbrush. A second scrubbing of Murphy’s was done with a stiffer nylon scrub brush to better remove the accumulated grime. The stummel was rinsed of soap with warm water and dried with a cotton hand towel.
Back at the workbench the stummel looked much cleaner and the crack could be examined in greater detail.
Other areas in need of repair were also made more apparent, the two deeper pits on the right shank and (shown below).
And the two depressions immediately above the left heel.
The rim also still had lava issues and would require a light topping. There were a couple of smaller surface cracks which appeared to be only superficial in nature.
I wiped the surface of the stummel with a make-up pad dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol. The made came back with more grime. My scrubbing was not as good as I thought it was.
I then proceeded to scrub the stummel with the toothbrush and 95% ethyl alcohol and wipe it with a clean make-up pad. More accumulated grime came off.
A repeat of the above scrubbing cleaned off additional grime.
And a third alcohol toothbrush scrub.
All told, the stummel was scrubbed 3 times with alcohol and toothbrush after the double Murphy Oil Soap scrub. I was pretty sure the previous owner was a car mechanic who smoked the pipe while working on car engines with dirty oily hands during the day and labored in a coal mine at night. Now the coal mine scenario might be a stretch as coal dust and smoking would probably create a bit of mischief but I’m sure you see my reasoning.
The shank cleaning was next. Cleaning here included pouring 3-4 ml of 95% ethyl alcohol into the tobacco chamber and scrubbing with a nylon shank brush. After the scrubbing the alcohol was poured into a medicine cup. The airway was then scrubbed with bristle pipe cleaners dipped in ethyl alcohol. Alcohol dipped cotton swabs were also used to clean out the mortise area. This process was repeated numerous times. I was making progress albeit slowly. I decided to give the airway a cotton alcohol overnight soak to dissolve and loosen the remaining tar deposits. The tobacco chamber and shank were stuffed with cotton and 95% ethyl alcohol was added to the cotton via a disposable pipette until the alcohol pooled on top of the cotton. The pipe was angled allowing the shank end and rim to be approximately level and saturated with alcohol.
The next morning the cotton showed that it had absorbed old smoking residue as the alcohol evaporated.
The cotton, now fairly dry, was removed and with it a good deal of the tar.
Further cleaning of the airway went much faster and soon revealed clean pipe cleaners.
The stem was removed from the Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer and allowed to dip excess solution back into the jar.
The remaining residual solution was wiped with a coarse shop rag.
The stem looked much better.
Several make-up pads drizzled with SoftScrub were used to scrub the remaining oxidized rubber from the stem surface.
I then went to work repairing and rebuilding the tooth damaged stem using sanding sponges to prepare the damaged areas.
The dents were painted with the flame of a lighter in an attempt at raising the dent a little bit. This met with little success. Filling the dents with black cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) was required. The dents received a light fill of the black CA.
This was then spritzed with a CA drying accelerator. This allows the CA to cure within seconds.
The cured CA was then filed with a flat diamond needle file to smooth the CA.
The remaining depressions appear shiny as they had not been touched by the file.
An additional fill of black CA was applied and spritzed with a drying accelerator.
The second application once cured was then filed and smoothed with a 320 followed by a 400 grit sanding sponge.
Additional small applications of CA, filing and sanding were done.
Eventually the stem looked far more acceptable.
The stem airway was cleaned out using bristle pipe cleaners dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.
It was time to start planning the crack repair. A little about this technique: Charles Lemon of dadspipes.com wrote a wonderful restoration blog about his technique for repairing cracked bowls (https://dadspipes.com/2016/03/08/a-crack-pinning-tutorial/). I had tried this pinning with a cracked diamond stem on a blog a while back (https://wordpress.com/post/scimansays1787.com/5886). Now I realize that I tried to use it on a stem not a bowl but I was more interested in practicing using the technique and to see if it would work with a stem. Besides, I did not have a pipe with a cracked bowl at that time. Anyway, It worked and I learned several things from my hands-on practice. Feel free to check out my blog and comment on all my mistakes, I own-up to all of them. Below you can see the steps of Charles’ pinning technique as they were intended.
I first marked the two entrance points where I wanted to drill two 2mm holes to place the 2mm brass rods. The brass rods reinforce the cracked area and are glued in place.
I used a rat-tail needle file to make depressions for the drill bit.
The plan was to drill the holes at two different angles to prevent the crack from being able to widen.
Below is a photo attempting to show the two angles without a big dumb thumb in the way.
The stummel was clamped into an adjustable vise allowing the best angle for me to comfortably drill while seeing the path of the drill bit.
I accidentally went too far with the top hole and exited the stummel. I had marked the drill bit with a sharpie marker but either I was not paying enough attention or the path of the boring was shorter than anticipated. The bottom drilling went as planned and did not exit on the far side of the entrance. Note that you can see the top brass pin through the crack.
Another view of the pinning angles.
And another view.
I used a wire cutter to cut the brass rod to length. I wanted the rods short enough that there would be no brass visible when they were placed into the holes. This was something I learned from my first attempt. The brass rods were roughed up with 320 sandpaper to allow the glue additional surface area to bond to.
I mixed J-B Weld 2 part epoxy as per the instructions on a plastic lid.
Once thoroughly mixed the epoxy was dabbled into the hole with a longer piece of brass rod and worked into the crack itself.The sanded rod pieces were pressed into place and pushed deeply into their respective hole with a longer piece of brass rod. Epoxy pushed out through the miss-drilled exit hole. This made me happy to know that the glue had indeed made it deep into the holes.
The excess epoxy was removed using a dry cotton swab. The area on each side of the crack was cleaned of epoxy with a cotton swab dipped in acetone. The interior of the tobacco chamber was wiped of excess epoxy with a small wooden popsicle stick. A clamp was used to compress the sides of the stummel and the stummel was set aside to dry/cure for 24 hours.
The next day, Iremoved the clamp and everything looked like it had gone according to plan.
It was now time to work on filling the holes, crack and other flaws in the briar. I used brown CA and briar dust for the fills.
Careful placement of CA with a fly tying bodkin was needed for this as the blast patterns would not allow for sanding. I then used a dental scraper to scoop up a small pile of briar dust and placed it onto the wet CA and used the back side of the scraper to press the briar dust into the CA. The extra briar dust was then brushed off with a brass brush and the fill was filed with a rounded or rat-tail diamond needle file. I tried to file to match the grain pattern of the blast.
The depression of the crack on the rim was filled in similar fashion to the above. Here I was able to sand the fill smooth with a topping board, AKA a piece of 320 sandpaper laid flat on a counter.
The shank depressions were also filled with CA and had briar dust pressed into them. The new fill was filed and in an attempt to leave some texture to match the existing blast pattern.
The heel fill proved to be quite large. This area had most of the blast pattern worn away by I assumed, use. I used a Dremel rotary tool to retexture the surrounding area.
Once all the fills were completed, I wanted to blend and conceal the fills. I chose Dark Brown Fiebing’s Leather Dye for this. The needed dye kit was gathered.
Below is the pipe after having been dyed and flamed with the lighter.
I then took the pipe to the buffer and used rouge buffing compound to buff away the outermost layer of dark brown dyed briar. Returning to the workbench I wiped the stummel with a couple of make-up pads dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.
The pipe was given a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm and allowed to sit for 15 minutes absorbing the balm and letting it work its magic.
The pipe was then taken to the buffer for several coats of carnauba wax. Normally I don’t like to use carnauba wax and the buffer for rusticated or sandblasted pipes but the blast of this old pipe had been worn quite smooth by handling and I thought that it would turn-out ok.
Upon seeing the stem of the Telford’s Canadian under the bright light of the photography station I was unhappy with the way it turned out. Given, it was far better than it was upon arrival.
Back to the workbench. I taped the shank of the pipe and redid the entire sanding sequence. This is probably never going to be a pipe put up for sale so I wasn’t sure why I was doing this. I guess my obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD), which should be CDO so that the letters are in alphabetical/proper order, got the best of me. After the sanding sponges I micro-meshed the stem and failed to photograph that.
The stem was rewaxed and returned to the photo station. It was better but… I was done, this time.
If the goals of this restoration were to successfully repair a cracked bowl using brass pins and to find the provenance of the pipe, I was successful. Regarding the worn nature of the blast, the oxidation of a stem or the heavily and hotly smoked tobacco chamber, there was only so much restoration could do. Still the pipe turned out fairly well.The crack repair and the subsequent blending of the repair looks good. The fills and their retexturing also turned out well. The rebuilding of the stem is nice and comfortable. Its appearance is not what I would call good. I cannot figure out how brown oxidation is still showing. I layered at least three coats of black CA over that sanded vulcanite and the result remains brown in appearance. Well at least in normal room lighting it looks good. The final let down is the fact that the MADE IN LONDON, 296 and the E were lost during the restoration. These were all on the faint side to begin with and seemed to have been stamped onto the finish of the pipe rather than onto bare briar. Their loss still bothers me. The dimensions of this beat-up beauty are:
Length: 5.80 in./ 147.32 mm.
Weight: 1.12 oz./ 31.30 g.
Bowl Height: 1.70 in./ 48.01 mm.
Chamber Depth: 1.73 in./ 43.94 mm.
Chamber Diameter: 0.83 in./ 21.08 mm.
Outside Diameter: 1.35 in./ 34.29 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.
Below are some photos of the finished Made in London Telford’s Canadian 296.
I had to take one photo of how the stem appears at a slight distance. It looks good.
As if Majestic wasn’t a good enough name they had to add the SUPER. That made me laugh when I first read the stampings. Here we have a delightful classic billiard pipe that has gained its turn at the workbench. The pipe was purchased as a single from a seller in Green Bay Wisconsin. I was attracted to it by the name and star inlay logo. I had seen neither and thought they looked intriguing. Besides, how can a guy say no to an attractive lass with good briar like this for under $15? The pipe was stamped SUPER (diagonally) Majestic (script) over SYSTEM V.D.. There was no country of manufacture (COM) leading me to think it was an American made product. The stem, as mentioned, had a silver-like 5 pointed star inlay. Below are some photos prior to working on the pipe:
The pipe showed signs of frequent use. There was a definite, though far from excessive cake in the bowl, the stinger had a coating of dried tarlac ( personal term combining tar with shellac). There were some minor tooth chatter dents on the stem and the strange banded oxidation. The oxidation pattern was perhaps due to the darker part being in a pipe rack and slightly protected from light. The stinger contraption was very unique, it looked as if it were machined by a prison inmate car engine fan wanting to make a stinger look like a crankshaft and be able to double as a shank (prison weapon). The final interesting part to note was that the shank had a cork insert acting as the mortise for the aluminum tenon. This struck me as a rather old fashioned connection of the stem and shaft.
Background
As you may expect there is not much information on Majestic pipes. Pipephil.eu led me to a couple deadends.
Catalog Listing similar to the EPC Majestic example
A. Pandevant & Roy Co. of Paris had its beginning in 1884 and disappeared with the commencement of WWII in the late 30s or early 40s. “E.P.C.”, “La Savoyarde”, “MAJESTIC”, “La Parisienne” and “E.P.” were registered trademarks of the company.
Now, let it be known that Dal Stanton is a wonderful restorer of old pipes. Though his skills are very impressive, one of the things that I admire most is his attention to detail when writing up the history of a pipe that he is working on. The above is a perfect example of his diligence. While I was reading about the restoration of the above pipe I came across his description of the mortise of his pipe: “What I see next surprises me. I see the briar shank ringing something else inserted into to the mortise. A lining of some sort. I discover then that it appears to be cork. Cork seats the horn tenon in the mortise much like cork seats the Meerschaum bowl on a Gourd Calabash. I have never seen this before, but it seems to work quite well. I will condition the cork with a little petroleum jelly later. The challenge becomes protecting the cork while I’m cleaning the rest of the stummel internals. I’m not sure that I want the cork saturated with alcohol – I’m not sure that will be the best thing.” (Discovering the History with the Reclamation of this Petite EPC Majestic Bent Horn Stem Billiard | rebornpipes) (italics added by me).
There it is the same cork insert that I am looking at with the Majestic which I am restoring. Coincidence? I think not. I believe that the Super Majestic Billiar is indeed an EPC Majestic produced prior to WWII in France.
I asked Dal Stanton to review this blog prior to publishing. He also saw the similarities that I did. He was unsure about the claim that my Majestic was an EPC product due to the differences in stem material, the star logo and the lack of the three hearts associated with the EPC stamping. He also recommended discussing the pipe with Steve Laug. I reached out to Steve, and sent him a link to this article as well. Steve also thought the link between the two Majestic pipes was reasonable. He commented, “I think you are right in connecting the two. There is a link. The fact that the bone insert is replaced with a metal can help to date it a bit. I am pretty sure that between WW1 and WW2 metal was used for the tenons in replacing the bone ones.” (Steve Laug, personal communication)
I think the Majestic Systeme V.D. Billiard is an EPC made pipe produced several years later than the Majestic pipe which Dal Stanton had restored. Perhaps the Systeme V.D. specimen was one of the latter pipes produced prior to WWII and the demise of the company.
The Restoration
The restoration began with a clean denim piece to protect the workbench
Due to the narrow bore of this pipe and the fact that I had broken my #1 blade of my PipNet, I relied on the Scotte Stainless Steel reamint tool.
The Scotte is more than adequate for the job and was aided by the Smokingpipes Low Country reaming knife and the General triangular scraper. The tobacco chamber was sanded with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel.
The chamber was sanded to bare briar and no sign of heat damage was observed. Yes, the resident white German Shepherd is always living up to her better descriptor of German Shedder.
The rim had a respectable layer of lava on it.
This was moistened with saliva and scraped with a sharp pocket knife.
The stummel was taken to the sink where it received a scrubbing with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a medium stiff toothbrush. The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.
While waiting for the stummel to air dry, I began work on the stem. The sinter was firmly attached to the stem and would not budge. I wasn’t sure if it was just a push fit stinger or if it was threaded. Either way it was stuck. I submerged it in 95% ethyl alcohol for a soak.
While the stinger was soaking I examined the stummel. The briar was of good quality and no pits were observed. The scrubbing had removed most, though not all of the finish. Patches of shiny finish can be seen in the photos below.
Back to the stinger. I scrubbed the stinger with a brass brush frequently dipped in the ethyl alcohol. The shape of the stinker was even more amazing when cleaned. This was a serious piece of millwork.
I started to clean out the shank of the pipe. Attempting to be cautious around the cork insert. A dental scraper was used to clean the tar from the airway as well as a nylon shank brush, numerous cotton swabs and folded bristle pipe cleaners. Eventually the airway was cleaned.
While in the cleaning mode, I cleaned the airway of the stem. This only used bristle pipe cleaners and 95% ethyl alcohol. Oh yeah, I forgot. The stinger was threaded into the stem. I don’t know why I would have expected anything less after seeing the machine work used for its manufacture.
The stem was given a light hand buffing with 0000 steel wool to allow the Before and After Deoxidizer solution access to the oxidized vulcanite.
A pipe cleaner was inserted into the tenon and used as a hanger to suspend the sem into the solution.
This stem was fairly oxidized so I figured at least 2 hours would be needed perhaps overnight.
I returned attention to the stummel. I wiped the surface with a make-up pad wetted with 95% ethyl alcohol. I hoped that the finish was shellac which is soluble in alcohol.
The alcohol seemed to have worked but to be completely sure I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad wetted with acetone.
If a little acetone is good, more must be better. This removed the last of any finish remaining on the stummel.
The briar was nice in that it had no pits of outward flaws; it also did not have much in terms of grain. I thought that a contrast dye would add a bit of depth to the existing grain. I did not want to sand and risk reducing the stamps so I taped over them with painter tape. This should keep the majority of the dye from the stamps and allow me to touch-up dye them later.
The stummel was then lightly sanded with 400 and 600 grit sanding sponges with the white German Shepherd attachments.
I applied a coating of black Fiebing’s Leather Dye to the stummel with a folded pipe cleaner and flamed the wet dye burning off the alcohol solvent.
The pipe was then rinsed with 91% isopropyl alcohol over the sink.
The stummel was then wiped with a paper towel to remove the excess dye. Notice the areas where the tape had been. The briar there is much lighter colored than the surrounding wood.
The stummel was then sanded to remove the outer layer of black dyed briar. The dye penetrated the softer open grain of the briar more than the harder grain. When sanded the area where the dye penetrated deeply is darker than the area where the dye was more on the surface.
I returned attention to the stem. It was removed from the Before and After Deoxidizer and allowed to drip excess solution back into the container. This drip dry device is quite the remarkable feat of engineering, eh?
After the stem drip dried for a few minutes I wiped any remaining solution off with a coarse shop rag. Two pipe cleaners were also run through the airway to clear it of solution as well.
The stem was lightly sanded with a 400 grit sanding sponge.
The stem was then scrubbed with SoftScrub cleanser on make-up pads to remove the oxidized rubber.
To try something different I decided to take the pipe to the buffer and buff the entire pipe with rouge buffing compound. I had seen restorers use the buffer to remove the outer layer of dyed wood. I had tried it in the past and never felt comfortable with the technique. I thought, practice and trying new things is good, right? Below you can see the results.
I liked the way the briar looked but I was not happy with the stem. That would need the old fashioned sanding sponges and micro-mesh pads. Another thing I noticed when buffing the pipe was that the stem was too loose. I thought about ways to refresh the cork. I read how Dal Stanton used petroleum jelly. I thought to myself, wood swells with moisture. Why not try steaming the cork? I put the kettle on and it soon started its annoying whistle. The exiting steam was allowed to flow into the shank. It flowed right through the shank out the tobacco chamber and onto my hand. Hmm, maybe a glove would have been a good idea. The steam worked very nicely at swelling the cork and a the stem was a perfect tight fit afterwards.
The buffing did not produce the finish that I thought this pipe was worthy of. I returned to doin things the way I was used to doing them. The stem was sanded with a sequence of sanding sponges from 400-3500 grit. Between each sponge I dipped my finger tip into mineral oil, rubbed this onto the stem and wiped the stem off with a clean dry paper towel.
I then used the 4000-12000 micro-mesh pads to polish the stem. This time I used a drop of Obsidian Oil between sponges, rubbed in and wiped off with a paper towel.
The stem was then further polished with Before and After Fine Polish on a soft cotton rag.
The Before and After Extra Fine Polish was used with the same cotton cloth.
The entire pipe was given a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm and allowed to sit for 30 minutes to ensure the Balm had enough time to work it’s magic.
The pipe was then wiped, cleaning off the Restoration Balm with an inside out athletic sock.
It was then taken back to the buffer to receive several coats of carnauba wax.
This Majestic turned out quite nicely. It is of a darker finish than I usually strive for but I think it works well with the classic elegant lines of this billiard. The silver tone star inlay on the stem also accentuates a darker finish and looks great surrounded by the glossy black vulcanite. I am not sure how I feel about using the buffer with red polishing compound rather than sanding to achieve a smooth finish. I mean it looks good but still it feels like cheating somehow. Either way, this pipe will make a fine smoker for its next companion. Te dimensions of the Super Majestic are:
Length: 5.98 in./ 151.89 mm.
Weight: 1.00 oz./ 28.40g.
Bowl Height: 1.72 in./ 43.69 mm.
Chamber Depth: 1.42in./ 36.07 mm.
Chamber Diameter: 0.74 in./ 18.80 mm.
Outside Diameter: 1.30 in./ 33.02 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.
PS: If you know anything about the brand or the meaning behind the “V.D. stamping, please leave a comment. Thank you.
Below are some photos of the finished Super Majestic Billiard.
I just can’t stop myself from working on those darn 1940s pipes. This little gem is one of those World War II Mediterranean briar substitutes. Kind of like a substitute teacher, they try but just are not the same as the regular version. I’ll get to more detail on that in the Background section, below. I have restored a handful of Trapwell pipes over the years
and found them to be exceptional smokers. They all share the same system for cooling the smoke and condensing out steam. It is this system that makes them good smokers but also a bit troublesome to clean. The subject of this blog is a large apple that has seen some tough handling. The pipe was purchased through eBay and was not part of an estate lot, just a single pipe. After a journey from Union Dale, Pennsylvania to the wilds of southeast Nebraska the old girl arrived. Below are some photos of this Trapwell as she appeared prior to any work.
I am not all that familiar with pipe care practices in different parts of the country. Apparently in Pennsylvania, pipes are frequently placed into cages with hyperactive irate badgers. I could be wrong on this but it would explain the numerous gouges, scratches, dings, dents and other surface scars that the Trapwell had. There were also signs that the pipe was smoked in between badger treatments and perhaps tumble drying sessions with the previous owner’s rock collection. There was a definite lava accumulation on the rim and some caking within the tobacco chamber. The stem and band had marks along their length that indicated that the badgers of Pennsylvania have acquired the use of pliers. These tool marks indicated to me that the stem was probably quite stuck in the shank (It was). The stem also had a bit of tooth chatter which would have to be repaired. Overall, it looked like a fairly straight forward restoration (It wasn’t).
Background
To have an understanding of Trapwell, we have to look into their origin story. No, there are no radioactive spiders but it is still a good story. “Henry Leonard & Thomas, Inc. (HLT) was founded in Ozone Park, Queens, New York by Henry J. Lavietes and two partners on May 31, 1938. The company patented a stem design for pipes and cigarette holders designed by Henry on March 9, 1943. Henry was the son of David Lavietes, who moved to Sparta, North Carolina in the early 1940s to purchase laurel and rhododendron burl to ship back to his son and HLT. Lavietes decided to stay in Sparta and founded the D&P Pipe Works with his other son Paul, originally as a 15 person operation. David Lavietes was the inventor of the Ajustomatic feature incorporated into Dr. Grabow pipes even today.
In 1944, the trademark for the Royalton filter well was granted to HLT. Soon after, however, Henry Lavietes closed the New York operation with little warning and moved the entire production to Sparta, North Carolina. At this time in addition to the Royalton line, HLT was making many other lines of pipes.
In 1953, HLT acquired all assets and equipment of the Dr. Grabow company of Chicago, Illinois, and began production of Grabow and Hollycourt pipes. At the same time, they acquired the Continental Briar Company, owner of the Royal Duke, Duke of Dundee, and Honeydew pipe brands still evident in the common use of the word “Duke” to name Grabow pipes.
On October 21, 1969, United States Tobacco company, owners of the Mastercraft brand, announced that it had acquired HLT. It still ran as a separate company until 1985, however, when Sparta Pipes, Mastercraft and HLT were merged into Sparta Industries, Inc.
While, even after this time, the HLT brand was sold to Lane, and later, in 2006 to International Pipes & Assessories, the current owners, IPAL continues to make and sell the Royalton pipe with the original HLT logo as part of the Grabow line.” (Henry Leonard & Thomas Inc. – Pipedia) (Italics are mine)
So we have David Levietas and son, Paul, setting up a North American briar harvesting venture in North Carolina. All of this due to the Nazis waging war on Europe and shutting down exportation of the pipemans’ favorite wood – briar. That dynamic duo was D&P Pipeworks.
“Trapwell pipes marked with “World’s best briar” are made of Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia) a species from the Ericaceae family.
The brand was made by D & P Pipe Works, owned by D. P. Levitas and located in Sparta, Alleghany County, North Carolina close to the population of Mountain Laurel in the area. Later, this company changed its name to Sparta Pipe Works and still later to Sparta Industries.
There were at least three pipe brands made from the Mountain Laurel: Trapwell, Breezewood and Custombilt.” (Trapwell – Pipedia)
David Levietas, as previously mentioned was the inventor of the “Ajustomatic”. He also was the inventor of the Trapwell system. The below diagram from the original US patent 2,262,159 was screenshot from the PDF. This PDF can be found here: US2262159A – Smoker’s pipe – Google Patents for those interested in the original.
It is this feature that makes the Trapwell pipe what it is – a fine smoking tool.
The Restoration
This restoration began with me attempting to unscrew the stem from the shank of the pipe. This unscrewing actually removed the aluminum mortise from the shank. This was not an intended part of David Levietas’ design. From the photos above you can see the following images:
The photo on the right is what is supposed to happen when unscrewing the stem. Using a pliers with the jaws wrapped in painters tape, as to not mar the stem nor aluminum, I was able to unscrew the two aluminum threaded parts. I would have to reinsert and glue the mortise section back into the shank. This comes later in the restoration.
I set out cleaning the threads of the tenon by soaking the threads in 95% ethyl alcohol. The threads were then scrubbed with a brass brush dipped in the alcohol. This cleaned any residual tars and removed most of the oxidized aluminum.
The shank piece of aluminum was larger and required a larger medicine cup for soaking. It also required more alcohol. I opted to use 91% isopropyl alcohol for this larger amount. Yeah, I’m cheap. Isopropyl is far less expensive than ethyl. That extra carbon and two hydrogens of the isopropyl must reduce both the effectiveness of it as a solvent and the cost. It still worked to clean the aluminum along with cotton swabs and bristle pipe cleaners.
The stem was cleaned out with 95% ethyl alcohol and bristle pipe cleaners.
With the insides clean it was time to address the exterior. I lightly sanded the stem with a 320 and 400 sanding sponge. I then painted the tooth chatter with a lighter in hopes of raising the dents.
The sanding and flame painting helped with the tooth chatter but were unable to do much to the pliers scars. These would require filling with black cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue).
I switched tasks to the stummel. Yeah, ADHD isn’t just for kids. I gathered the reaming tools and started working on the tobacco chamber. This was a relatively narrow chamber and would not fit my PipNet Reaming tool since I had broken the smallest size blades for it. The Scotte Stainless Steel reamer would suffice.
Looking down into the chamber I couldn’t see any damage from heat. It still needed additional scraping and sanding but still the Mountain Laurel appeared to be heat resistant. Not the badger claw marks through the lava.
Next the stummel was taken to the sink. Here it was scrubbed with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a medium toothbrush. The soap was rinsed with warm water and then the stummel was dried with a cotton hand towel.
Back at the workbench you can see the grain of the Mountain Laurel. It is different from briar and lacks the bird’s eyes. I can’t say that it is unattractive, just different.
I wiped the surface with a make-up pad dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol to remove any wax and or finish from the stummel. I got some color on the pad. It looked more like a stain than a finish.
The stummel was then sanded with a 320 and a 400 grit sanding sponge.
The rim needed topping to address the dents and dings on the surface. This was done with a piece of 320 sandpaper laid flat on a countertop. I used a circular pattern with rotations of the stummel in my hand every 3-4 circles. This process was repeated with 400 grit sandpaper.
In preparation of a contrast dye, I taped the stamps to keep them from being as heavily dyed as the stummel. The tape was cut in irregular patterns to avoid the blocky appearance when finished.
I planned to use a mixture of ⅓ black to ⅔ dark brown Fiebing’s Leather Dye.
The dye was measured out with a disposable pipette and mixed in a medicine cup. It was then applied to the stummel using a bent pipe cleaner as an applicator. The wet dye was flamed with a lighter to burn off the alcohol solvent of the dye.
The stummel was then rinsed with 91% isopropyl alcohol over the sink.
Excess dye was wiped from the stummel with a paper towel. The protective tape also came off during the wiping but it had done its job.
Back at the workbench the stummel was wiped with a couple of make-up pads dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol. I was not sure how the Mountain Laurel would take the dye as I had never dyed Mountain Laurel before. The softer portions of the wood absorbed the dye very well while the harder grain seemed to repel the dye to some extent. This looked to give the wood a very interesting pattern.
I then tried to sand off the outermost black dyed layer of wood. It was here that I realized how woefully inadequate my previous sanding had been. The badger claw marks were everywhere. Stupid badger.
After thinking about how to deal with the scratches and dents for what seemed like hours, I thought, “try steaming them out”. I plugged in the iron, set it to high, wetted a washcloth and donned a left glove. I wrapped the washcloth around the stummel and proceeded to roll it over the hot iron. I would have taken pictures of this process had I more than the two hands.
The results of the steaming were better but still required far more sanding. And yes, it’s a kevlar glove, I clean fish down at this sink on occasion.
Okay, back to sanding. Lots of sanding. And then some more sanding.
Finally I was wondering if I had done so much sanding that the contrast dye had been completely removed. Out of curiosity I grabbed the Before and After Restoration Balm and gave the stummel a coating. I waited 15 minutes for the balm to do what it does – magic. Many of the dents and scratches seemed to have disappeared.
There were a couple of dents that were too much for even the wonders of Restoration Balm. These would have to be filled with brown CA and briar dust. Now that I write that I realize I should have used Mountain Laurel dust. I certainly had enough.
The new fills were filed with a flat needle file then smoothed with 400 sandpaper.
I must have left stummel mode and entered CA fill mode. I started filling the tooling and tooth dents on the stem. Here I used black CA and spritzed it with a CA drying accelerator.
These areas were again filed flat with a flat needle file then smoothed using a 400 grit sanding sponge.
For a final finish I applied a light top coat of thin clear CA. This CA flows more easily and filled any small depressions that remained. Once cured the areas were filed and sanded as above.
The wood of the shank was taped with painters tape and the stem was sanded using a series of sanding sponges from 400-1500. Between each sponge I dabbed mineral oil onto the stem, rubbed it in with my fingertip and wiped the stem with a paper towel.
The above was repeated with the 2000-3500 sanding sponges.
The stummel got new tape over the stamps. Then was sanded sith the sanding sponges 1000-3500. Between sponges I wiped the wood with a make-up pad moistened with alcohol.
The tape was removed and the adhesive wiped off with alcohol. The pipe was then polished with the micro-mesh pads 4000-12000. The stummel was wiped with alcohol on a make-up pad between pads. The stem received a drop of Obsidian Oil, rubbed onto the vulcanite and a wipe with a dry paper towel.
Once finished with the micro-meshing I pulled the aluminum shank insert out. Cleaned the hole and the aluminum with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol then applied a light coat of white all purpose glue to the toothed end of the aluminum and reinserted it into the shank. I adjusted the bit while the glue was wet. The joint where the two pieces meet was wiped with a paper towel and a bit of alcohol. The pipe was then taken to the buffer for several coats of carnauba wax.
This Trapwell Apple turned out far better than I thought it would. During the restoration I still had my doubts as to how it would look finished. It is truly a stunning pipe. Some of the scratches are still evident but the Mountain Laurel nearly has a glow to it. In sunlight it is remarkable. The contrast dye did far better than I hoped it would, even after all my post-dye sanding. The stem polished up nicely as well. There remain some deep scratches in the aluminum but removing them would probably alter the straight smooth shank to stem junction. Overall I am very pleased at how this pipe turned out. The dimensions of this beauty are:
Length: 6.11 in./ 155.19 mm.
Weight: 1.34 oz./ 38.00g.
Bowl Height: 1.47 in./ 37.34 mm.
Chamber Depth: 1.26 in./ 32.00 mm.
Chamber Diameter: 0.68 in./ 17.27 mm.
Outside Diameter: 1.56 in./ 39.62 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.
Below are some photos of the finished Trapwell Large Apple.
Here I go again with another Marxman. Okay, I haven’t restored a Marxman since March 18, that’s like four months. In dog years it is over two years. I think it is about time to return to one of my favorite brands and this is a beauty. An unsmoked Mel-O Pear. How it ended up with a cracked shank, I’ll never understand. This darling came to me from eBay, and traveled all the way from Yuma, Arizona. Maybe that dry desert heat is what contributed to the crack. The description from the seller read as follows, “Vintage Marxman Tobacco Pipe Melo-O Imported Italy there minor cracked other than that very good”. Where they got the “Imported Italy” from is another mystery. True the stamps are faint and partial but I can make out a “B” after IMPORTED and the last time I checked Italy starts with an “I”. The other stamps are MEL~O over MARXMAN. The “MAN” looks to have suffered the same fate and the BRIAR never having been properly stamped. Below are some photos of the Marxman Mel-O as it arrived.
Background
On January 11, 2024 I blogged about a Marxman Gold banded Dublin (linked if you are interested) and wrote the following about Robert Marxman and Marxman pipes:
“My recent fascination with the post-World War Two (WWII, to properly use an acronym) led me to further appreciation of the Marketing genius of Robert Marx, the founder of Marxman Pipes Inc. Allow me to illustrate:
Those are the back covers of Pipe Lovers Magazine for each month of 1946. That represents a substantial investment in building and maintaining one’s brand name.
Here is a quick review of Marxman pipes from pipedia.org:
“Marxman (Marxman Pipe Company) was created by Robert (Bob) L. Marx in 1934, when he was 29, and after he had worked for the William Demuth Company. His pipes were not outstanding because of the quality of their wood (probably Algerian), but Bob started making unique sculpted pieces, which brought the brand fame in the World of Hollywood cinema. Actors like Zachery Scott, Dennis Morgan, Jack Carson, Alan Hale, Joel McRae, and Ronald Reagan were some of the faces that appeared on the bowls.
Bob knew how to innovate and took full advantage of marketing and press advertising in order to sell the brand–one of his slogans being “Relax with a Marxman”.
In a recent forum post on Pipesmagazine.com, contributor jguss posted the following from the February 2, 1935 issue of the UnitedStatesTobaccoJournal:
A remarkable article showing the business acumen as well as a photo of the man himself. Thank you, jguss.
This is one of my favorite quotes about Rober Marx:
“Ted also said: Several years before UST bought Mastercraft, M/C had aquired Marxman Pipes. A wonderful kind man, Bob Marx was still working as a salesman in NYC, and I was fortunate to make a few sales calls with him. You all remember Charles Atlas? Bob Marx was about 76 and had just been awarded the (I think) Atlas Award for being the finest speciman of manhood over 70 years old in NYC, or maybe the state.
M/C had some inventory of Marxman stuff, but not a lot. I know very little about Marxman. Did they make, import, or both?” (Mastercraft – Pipedia)
The “Ted”, who is being quoted above, was the nickname of Tom Douglas. Here is an announcement of Mr. Douglas’ passing from Pipesmagazine forum November 26, 2018:
“Tom Douglas passed away at 71 years of age, this past Saturday, in Florida. It seems he had an infection in his stomach, but I don’t know much more than that, regarding what actually contributed to his death. He did have a history of heart and other health complications. I just spoke very briefly with his wife Joyce; you can imagine how she’s doing.
The impact Tom had on the pipe community is huge…beginning with an immense library of pipe knowledge through the pages of the Dr. Grabow Collectors Forum….his 25 years of service at the Grabow / Sparta pipe factory (where he retired in 1991)….his executive leadership over Mastercraft distribution for many years…”
So, at 76 years old Robert Marx was still involved in the business that he must have loved. This would have been around 1980.”
Then last winter, Mark Irwin, of Peterson Pipe Notes and author of The Peterson Pipe book, sent me a c. 1945 Marxman Brochure. I photographed the pages of the brochure and included them below.
One of the easiest things to date is a Marxman pipe. The company was formed in 1939 and sold in 1953 to MasterCraft. Though the Marxman name continued after 1953 the pipes were made in France or Italy and stamped as such with Country of Manufacture (COM) stamps. This means that a non COM stamped Marxman pipe was made in New York City between 1939-1953.
The Restoration
A clean denim piece on the work surface began this restoration. The edge of the shank was given a very slight bevel with 320 sandpaper. You can see the lighter ring on the briar below from the sanding.
I checked which size of brass tubing would be the best fit for a band for the Mel~O, ⅝ inch was nearly perfect. I measured how wide I wanted the band. For this pipe a narrow band seemed appropriate and would provide the strength needed to compress the crack and not cover the carvings on the shank. A pipe cutter was used to cut the 5/8th inch stock.
The band was cut. The interior edges were lightly filed with a rounded needle file, giving them a very slight bevel on bothe the interior and exterior surfaces. Then the edges were lightly sanded with 320 and 400 grit sanding sponges.
There was zero draw through the pipe. I removed the stinger and noticed that it was completely sealed with some obstruction.
Using needle nose pliers I was able to pull a couple of tiny pieces of metal from the end of the stinger.
At this point I assumed the stinger was meant to be a tube rather than a cylinder. I thought that maybe a previous owner had somehow wedged a pipe cleaner into the draft hole. I tried pushing a fly tying bodkin through what I thought to the tube. It was completely sealed.
I figured that it might be worth a try to drill out the hole through the tube. I tried a couple of drill bits and found the 5/32 inch to be the best fit.
Holding the stinger firmly with a Vise-Grip I tried drilling the aluminum with an electric drill. This proved pretty futile. There was no way that I could hold both the stinger and the drill straight enough to allow a good hole through the aluminum.
To make matters worse there appeared to be a steel wire within the aluminum which was pushing the drill bit to the side. With continued drilling the bit would be forced to the side of the aluminum stinger not through the center. I abandoned the idea of drilling the aluminum. Hmm, perhaps this is the universe’s way of telling me that I need a drill press?
I thought about various stingers. Many are a solid piece of aluminum but they have a groove or slot milled in them to allow for an airway. Perhaps this piece was supposed to have a slot cut in it. How this was neglected, if it were indeed neglected, made little sense but stranger things have happened. I set the stinger aside and continued pondering as I worked on the next task.
The next task was cleaning up the stem. This pipe must have been stored in a box or drawer as it had minimal oxidation, pretty amazing for a 75 year old pipe. I first sanded the surface with a 600 grit sanding sponge. This removed the surface oxidation and dirt and also revealed a strange rough spot. Try as I might I was not able to get rid of the rough area with the 600 sponge so I backed off to a 400 grit sponge. This worked to remove most of the rough area. The spot was resanded and smoothed with the 600 sponge.
I then scrubbed the stem with SoftScrub on make-up pads. This removed additional oxidation and left the stem looking like and black with fresh clean vulcanite.
As I drew air through the stem I heard a whistling. I took this to mean that there was a turbulent flow of air through the airway. The tenon was flat cut. Why not give it a nice countersunk bevel and polish that a bit, I thought.
Using a couple drill bits I just held in hand and twisted the bits removing the rubber from the tenon. This was then sanded with 220, 320 and 400 sandpaper to smooth the bevel. Below you can see the polished bevel. Drawing through the pipe was now silent.
The stem airway was quite clean and only produced the dirt from manufacture and age on the pipe cleaners dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol.
Next the stummel was taken to the sink to rid it of it’s accumulated grime. The three amigos of scrubbing were present and accounted for.
From previous experience with the soft Algerian briar that Marman used I opted not to use the brass brush on the rusticated carvings. I began with Undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a medium stiff toothbrush. Additional Murphy’s was added and a second scrub with the nylon scrub brush was done. The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.
Below is a photo of the scrubbed stummel back at the workbench. I took the shininess to indicate that wax or finish was still present on the briar.
I scrubbed the stummel with 95% ethyl alcohol and a toothbrush to remove any traces of shine.
The stummel was then scrubbed with 95% ethyl alcohol on a make-up pad. Extra attention was paid to the carving grooves.
And again.
There we go, no more shine. I then started to fit the band to the shank. The shank needed to have a slight bit of briar removed in order for the band to fit. I slowly and carefully filed the shank end. I wanted the band to be press fit. A hard press, that is.
Eventually I got the fit that I wanted. I applied thin cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) to the crack, the thin formula allows ready penetration into the crack. The band was then pressed into place using a tapping block. The outside end of the band required a little bit of filing to allow a precise fit with the stem and a light sanding with 400 and 600 sanding sponges.
The pipe, stem and stummel, were then sanded with a sequence of sanding sponges from 400-1500. Between each sponge I wiped the stummel with a make-up pad dipped in alcohol. The stem received a dab of mineral oil from my fingertip rubbed onto the vulcanite then wiped with a paper towel.
The above was repeated for the 2000-3500 sanding sponges.
The pipe was then micro-meshed with 4000-12000 pads. The stummel was wiped as before while the stem received Obsidian Oil rather than mineral oil.
The pipe was then given a coat of Before and After Restoration Balm and allowed to sit for 20 minutes.
@0 minutes later the Restoration Balm was wiped from the pipe with an inside out athletic sock. Again extra attention was paid to rubbing the carved grooves thoroughly.
I wasn’t sure which type of wax would be best for protecting and preserving the rusticated carvings. I opted for Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax. No, not because I like the smell. Well, yeah, kind of because I like the smell. Also because it seems to penetrate into the non-sanded briar.
The wax was applied with a baby toothbrush.
I let the wax dry for 15 minutes and replaced my carnauba wax buffing wheel with a clean flannel wheel and buffed the stummel. I used the corner of the wheel to work into the carvings.
The carnauba buffing wheel was returned to the buffer and the stem, rim and stampings received several coats of carnauba wax.
This was a fun restoration as I enjoy banding cracked shanks. I think the polished brass gives the rusticated briar a touch of classiness. The briar of this Mel~O shows some grain pattern on the rim, nothing great but still pretty. The color though is outstanding and is contrasted very nicely with the glossy black vulcanite separated by the brass band. Overall I am pleased with how the pipe turned out. I am looking forward to the first smoke with this Marxman. There is something unique about the briar with these old pipes, they have a slight spiciness like cinnamon and nutmeg when first smoked. You can get it from a freshly reamed and sanded Markman as well. Strangely satisfying or, I could be imagining it allowing my tastebuds to succumb to my weird emotional attachment to the brand. Either way, I like these old pipes. The dimensions of the Marxman Mel-O Pear are:
Length: 5.40 in./ 137.16 mm.
Weight: 1.30 oz./ 37.00 g.
Bowl Height: 1.61 in./ 40.89 mm.
Chamber Depth: 1.10 in./ 27.94 mm.
Chamber Diameter: 0.78 in./ 19.81 mm. (conically bored)
Outside Diameter: 1.58 in./ 40.13 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.
Below are some photos of the finished Marxman Mel-O Pear.
Just when you thought I had moved on from my fascination with pipes from the 1940s I throw another one at you. I had been watching the auctions for a Ken after reading about them in the 1946-1948 Pipe Lovers Magazines for several months. The difficulty was in finding one that had an intact condenser apparatus and was in the price range I found acceptable. Complicated and delicate are two words that come to mind for the contraption within the stem.
Well, as you can see I found one that fit both of my criterion. This pipe was originally purchased on June 8 of 2024. When the box arrived my excitement was quickly dashed due to the wrong pipe was sent by the seller. eBay messages were exchanged and the incorrect pipe was returned to the seller. At this point I thought my search would have to start all over. Fortunately the recipient of the Ken pipe returned his incorrect shipment quickly. The seller was able to repost the Ken and I was able to purchase it again. I felt a little bad for the seller as he had to pay for the return shipping but was glad he made it right with us buyers. The correct pipe eventually arrived and waited in the queue for it’s spot on the workbench. Here is what the Ken looked like upon arrival.
Background
I’ll start with what drew me to want to restore a Ken in the first place, a full page ad from Pipe Lovers magazine January 1946:
I especially loved the “Smokers’ Guild of America”, rather than the company name. There is a union that I could support.
Here is a larger version of the Ken schematic diagram from Popular Mechanics 1946:
“KEN Brand Pipes are made by Prim Associates of America out of Chicago, Ill. The design is unique and somewhat complex and has a patent by Otto Turinsky.[1] This patent was applied for in Dec. 1939 and granted in May 1941, Pat No 2,242,805. An ad in Popular Mechanics from 1946 shows the pipe costing $3.50 and shows Six Key features of the Ken Pipe along with a Money Back Guarantee! Stem is Lucite and the interior chamber contains various technical features to remove tar, moisture, burnt tongue and remove impurities.” (KEN – Pipedia)
I searched through Google patents, advanced search and found the original patent from Otto Turinsky:
(1498380862798272946-02242805 (storage.googleapis.com)). Perhaps Otto Turinsky was either very attorney averse or so innovatively clever as to make a device that rivals could not or would not try to copy thus freeing himself from all the trouble brought about by patent infringement litigation.
With only the smallest bit of conjecture I can safely say that the Ken in hand is a pipe made in Chicago, Illinois between the dates of December 30 1939, when the patent was applied for, and May 20 1941, when the patent application was granted. That was a tough time to start production of a new line of pipes as World War Two would have nearly eliminated the supply of briar from the Mediterranean.
The Restoration
I broke from usual and began cleaning without a clean denim piece for a work surface. I guess I was just excited to work on this pipe after waiting so many months to finally have one. The stem of the Ken had a scar from a battle with a cigarette, probably from a seedy bar down by the river.
The interior of the stem was truly tar and yuck infested. That should look like yellow acrylic rather than a black painted ceiling.
The patent diagram refers to the rounded cylinder as the “cup”. The cup was a black caked mess and needed into an alcohol bath, stat. Yeah, borrowing terms from hospital emergency room lingo makes me feel cool.
The stem was not accepting of the 95% ethyl alcohol so cleaning had to be done with something else. I used Castille soap diluted with water to soften the old smoking deposits within the stem.
The contraption’s tar was softening with the alcohol. I took it to the sink where I could scrub it with additional alcohol without making a mess of the workbench.
The aluminum was scrubbed with a nylon brush dipped in alcohol. The tar was relinquishing its grip on the old aluminum.
I eventually could see that the cup was just slid onto an aluminum tube coming out of the shank. I carefully slid the cup off and allowed it to soak further. In the 95% ethyl alcohol.
Every few minutes I removed the cup and tried cleaning inside the cup and the exterior. As you can see the alcohol was darkening from the soaking and scrubbing.
The aluminum cup was delicate feeling. I did not want to exert very much pressure on it or it’s flanges. I used pipe cleaners and cotton swabs with about ½ of their cotton removed to scrub the inside of the cum.
The inside of the cup was finally cleaned.
The exterior remained difficul to clean and was stained. This surface required a bit more of an abrasive cleaning. I lightly scrubbed it with 0000 steel wool dipped in the alcohol.
After soakin the stem’s interior was scraped with a dental scraper and scrubbed with various scrubbing tools; bristle pipe cleaners, small tube brushes, cotton swabs, a fy tying bodkin, etc… Actually almost anything I could fit into the stem was used to try to separate the tar from the plastic.
After the interior was looking better I used an emory board to flatten the cigarette burn. I then applied a thin coating of clear Thin Cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) to the depression in the center of the cigarette scar. I was afrain to speed the drying of the CA as the CA drying accelerator that I use reacts less than favorably to acrylic. I allowed the CA to dry at it’s own pace and smoothed the new material. I had to reapply several times to get the depression filled.
The stummel was prepped for reaming and the tools were gathered. The tobacco chamber war a bit too narrow for the PipNet #2 blade and the #1 blade remained broken. Apparently it will not heal itself and return to work.
The reaming was done mainly with the Scotte Stainless Steel Reamer Tool, scraping with both the General Triangular scraper the the Smokingpipes Low Country Knife was also done. The chamber was sanded with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel. The chamber was taken to bare brian and no damage from heat was observed.
The stummel was then taken to the sink. There it was scrubbed with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a medium toothbrush. The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton dish towel.
Returning to the workbench the stummels was wiped with 95% ethyl alcohol on a make-up pad. Some color came off on the pad indicating that there had remained wax and/or finish remaining on the briar.
The rim was moistened with saliva and scraped with a sharp pocket knife.
I decided to give this stem an alcohol/cotton treatment as it still smelled of old tobacco residue and tar. Cotton was stuffed into the bowl and shank. Alcohol was added by a disposable pipette, approximately 10 ml. The alcohol was allowed to sit overnight to work on removing the remaining residue.
The next day the cotton in the chamber appeared as the photo below shows.
Finally the stem and stummel looked fairly clean.
The stamps were covered with painters tape to protect them during sanding.
The sanding of the stem used sanding sponges 1000-3500. The stem was wiped off with a make-up pad moistened with water between each sponge.
The sanding of the stummel was done with the same sanding sponges only from 600-3500. Between each sponge the stummel was wiped off with a make-up pad moistened with 95% ethyl alcohol.
Th stem and stummel were worked with 4000-12000 micro-mesh pads. The stummel wiped with the alcohol wetted pad while the stem was wiped with a water wetted make-up pad.
The stummel then received a coating of Before and After Restoration Balm and was allowed to sit for 30 minutes.
After 30 minutes the excess Restoration Balm was hand buffed to remove the excess using an inside out athletic sock.
The pipe was then taken to the buffer fr several coats of carnauba wax.
I Though the pipe was finished yet there were still two things which bothered me slightly. Number one was the “KEN” stamp on the top of the stem. It needed something. I decided to repaint the stamp with silver Rub’nBuff.
The second thing that I found bothersome was that the stem had a slight looseness that I didn’t like. I thought that it would probably go away after the first smoke but what if I didn’t smoke this pipe? I decided to give the stem a touch of beeswax upon the tenon of the shank. This stem is actually a reverse mortise/tenon with the mortise being the stem and the tenon is the shank.
Molten beeswax was applied with a small paintbrush and allowed to cool.
The wax was then cut away using the Low Country Knife. The tenon was then rubbed with a cotton cloth to smooth and wipe away additional excess.
Here is the stem with new paint and a tight fitting stem. There, I was finally happy with it.
Well, I can mark off another 1940 pipe from the list of pipes that I wanted to restore. In all seriousness this Ken Billiard turned out better than I expected it to. The yellow stem had me worried. I’ve seen photos of red, blue and black stems. I think a red or blue would be easier to restore as the transparency of the stem would be less noticeable and the black would be easy mode. This one looks pretty good with the yellow accenting the yellow tones in the briar quite nicely. The nickel band looks good with the silver Rub’nBuff. The internals cleaned up well and I learned about how this aluminum contraption is designed and how it’s supposed to work. That was something that had really intrigued me about these pipes. I have very mixed feelings about smoking this old pipe. I want to know how the whole thing works but I’m not looking forward to cleaning it all out again. Oh, you know I’ll smoke it. The dimensions of the Ken PAT. APLD. SE areas follows:
Length: 5.72 in./ 145.29 mm.
Weight: 1.05 oz./ 30.00 g.
Bowl Height: 1.66 in./ 42.16 mm.
Chamber Depth: 1.34in./ 34.04 mm.
Chamber Diameter: 0.74 in./ 18.80 mm.
Outside Diameter: 1.30 in./ 33.02 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.
Below are some photos of the finished Ken Pat. Apld. 1350 SE.
The Peterson System Pipes are a well known feature of pipe smokers and pipe collectors worldwide. They were originally designed and patented by Charles Peterson while working for the Kapp Brothers in 1890, 1894 and a third in 1898. In 1894 Charles Peterson and Henry Kapp bought out the shares of Christian Kapp of the Family business, which the brothers had run together.
Most pipe-people are familiar with the Peterson System pipes of the bent variety. Fewer folks know about the Straight System pipes. I am not sure of the reason for this. One can occasionally come across a Straight System pipe on eBay as an estate pipe though new specimens can be found as older stock in pipe shops in the UK. Shops like The Black Swan (https://www.thebackyshop.co.uk/) and Miss morans (https://missmoran.co.uk/) show that they have Peterson System 31s in stock yet when I try to order to order one I get the following messages,
Just when you think that everyone wants your money you find that due to unknown reasons the above companies cannot deliver to the US from the UK. This brings me to where this pipe came from. It was an estate pipe from eBay and made the journey from Cedar Park, Texas to the wilds of southeast Nebraska in June 2024. The pipe is a lovely smooth finished Peterson 31 and sports the following stamps PETERSON”S over SYSTEM (arched) on the left side and MADE IN THE over REPUBLIC over IRELAND and 31 on the right side. The below photos of the Peterson 31 show its condition upon arrival.
This Peterson 31 arrived without the aluminum tenon extension which is a vital part of it being a true “Peterson System” pipe. Fortunately I have been accumulating extra extensions from Smokingpipes.eu for this very situation.
I would like to say that I am a genius but I know better. I am just someone who plans for the worst to avoid disappointment. This looked to be a very stress free restoration. The pipe was in great shape with the stummel needing minimal cleaning and only a couple of fills. The stem was not severely oxidized and looked like all it needed was a bit of sanding, polish and a new chimney. That is what the Peterson factory workers call the aluminum tenon extension.
Background
The history of Kapp and Peterson (K&P) is long and eventful. In the past couple of weeks I have restored and blogged about several Peterson pipes. I previously wrote the following and it is still relevant: “For a great history Mark Irwin and Gary Marlburg’s book is a must read for a Pete Geek.
As for the specific background on the straight system pipes and this Peterson 31, I will be using the The Peterson Pipe book. According to Mark Irwin and Gary Malmberg,
“The only straight System pipe in current production is the little shape 31 billiard. This was not always the case. Charles Peterson offered four straight Patent Systems in the 1896 catalog: a billiard, a straight-sided, a heel bowl and a bulldog. To these were added three half-bents in the same shapes. Each of the straights was offered in four sizes; the half-bents in one or two sizes each. By the 1906 catalog the half-bents had disappeared, and the original four straight Patents were reduced to two sizes each, making for four shapes and eight pipes.
The straight Systems were produced at least through the mid-1920s, as some of them appear in a Phillip Weiss & Söhne trifold brochure from that era. There is no indication of a straight System in the ‘37 Peterson catalog, and since ‘45 only shape 31 has routinely appeared in the catalogs. The 120 and 87 apple appeared at some point before ‘63, but are only documented in an Associated Imports brochure from ‘76.
The contemporary pipe smoker may also run across a straight 1890-1990 Patent System Commemorative on the estate market. This elongated, short stack billiard was actually a new design and not a reproduction.
The demise of the straight System is a bit of a mystery, because while its smoking properties and maintenance issues vary a bit from the best System, it works at least as well, if not better. As a cutaway demonstrator from the 1896 catalog reveals, the design of the straight System depends on the bore running under the tobacco chamber, necessitating a shallow-bowl geometry. In the case of the System 31, the bowl typically runs 18.5 mm wide by 26 mm deep (0.695 in. by 1.02 in.). But even the large-bowled Patent System Commemorative only has a chamber depth of 34 mm (1.34 in.). The small chamber of these pipes probably accounts for their disappearance, although they are excellent for especially strong or flavorful tobaccos like Gawith’s 1792 Flake, a dark-fired powerful virginia with tonquin flavoring.
Cleaning a straight System is also more complicated than the bent System, as the bore is really a small calabash chamber, not a reservoir, with the aluminum-tenon extension going down the center of its length and extending under the draft hole. After use, a straight System’s chamber should be swabbed out with a tissue twist, followed by a fluffy cleaner with its tip dipped in isopropyl or Everclear. This must be done carefully to avoid spilling the alcohol on the outside of the bowl and possibly damaging the stain. It is probably not necessary to clean it with alcohol after every smoke, but the straight System is extremely susceptible to ghosting.
The draft hole in the straight Systems is larger than in the bent Systems, going through the bottom of the bowl down into the chamber beneath it. This design requires a bit of vigilance to insure the draft hole doesn’t get clogged up or swollen with carbon-cake. The use of a bristle cleaner is therefore a good idea after each smoke.
As for the smoking qualities, the straight System smokes drier than the best System and could be argued to be the drest smoking briar pipe ever made – which may or may not be a good thing, according to each pipeman’s taste. The size and shape of the bore, as some pipe smokers have noticed concerning today’s artisan reverse-calabash briars, promotes the ghosting of tobacco flavors if bothe the chimney and the chamber aren’t cleaned on a regular basis. Many pipe smokers devote a single style of tobaccos (english, virginia, aromatic) to specific pipes in their rotation to avoid this kind of problem, and it’s a good rule to follow with the straight System as well. (The Peterson Pipe The Story of Kapp & Peterson, First edition, second printing 2021. Briar Books Press, Canada. Pp. 264-265)
It must be mentioned that Irwin and Malmberg wrote that in 2018. Since the original publication the Peterson System 31, the last straight System pipe, had been discontinued. This means that the only way you can now have a 31 of your own is to find either new old stock (NOS) from a dealer or to find one on the estate market. How old is the little darling I have in hand? I cannot say. I do have 4 31s and regretfully, I can say little about any of them. I can attest to them being wonderful smoking little pipes. Regarding their age I can only say that the upper left pipe in the photo below is very recent as it has an acrylic stem and was made shortly prior to the discontinuation of the line – approximately 2020.
The Restoration
This little billiard was worthy of a clean denim piece and it got one.
The reaming tools were gathered. No PipNet for this reaming due to the fact that the #1 PipNet blades suffered a break several months ago. So the Scotte Stainless Steel Reamer Tool stepped up as a replacement along with the Smokingpipes Low Country Reamer. The tobacco chamber also received a sanding with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel to take it down to bare briar. There was no heat damage observed in the chamber.
The shank’s airway was then cleaned using many cotton swabs dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol, a dental scraper, a nylon shank brush and pipe cleaners doubled over.
With the airway cleaned it was time for the exterior of the stummel to be scrubbed. Murphy Oil Soap was used undiluted with a medium bristle toothbrush. The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.
Back at the workbench the stummel was wiped with a make-up pad dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol. As you can see very little old wax and stain were removed.
There were 3 pits which I scraped the old fill material from to prepare them for new fill material. The new fills would be done with brown cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) and briar dust.
A small drop of brown CA was applied to the pits using a fly tying bodkin. A small scoop of briar dust was then pressed into the CA filled pit.
The excess briar dust was brushed away and the new fill was smoothed with a flat needle file then sanded with a 320 grit sanding sponge. In areas where additional fill was needed a second small drop of CA was added onto the new fill and then was sanded with the sanding sponge. The sanding sponge provided the briar dust this time. The stummel was further smoothed using the 400 sanding sponge.
In preparation for sanding the stamps were taped with painters tape for their protection. I like to use irregular cuts of tape to avoid the “censored” box look, to the area under the tape.
The stummel was then sanded using a series of sanding sponges from 600-3500 grit. In between each sponge the stummel was wiped with a make-up pad wetted with 95% ethyl alcohol.
The protective tape was removed and the stamp areas were wiped with alcohol to remove any residual adhesive from the tape. The stummel was then micro-meshed with pads 4000-12000. Again between the pads I wiped the stummel sith the alcohol and make-up pad.
The stummel was given a liberal coat of Before and After Restoration Balm and allowed to sit while I worked on the stem.
The stem cleaning was a breeze compared to the shank and only required a couple of alcohol dipped bristle pipe cleaners.
The exterior of the stem was given a light sanding with a 400 grit sanding sponge.
I then used SoftScrub on a couple of make-up pads to scrub the stem in an attempt to remove any oxidation on the vulcanite.
The stem was then sanded with a series of sanding sponges 600-3500. There was no P logo on this stem thus no need to protect it with painters tape. Between sponges wiped the sanding dust from the stem by using my finger tip dipped in mineral oil, rubbed on the stem then wiped with a dry paper towel.
The stem was then micro-meshed with the 4000-12000 pads. Between each pad I applied a small drop of Obsidian Oil, rubbed that in and wiped the stem with a dry paper towel.
The stem was then polished by hand buffing Before and After Fine Polish with a soft cotton cloth.
The polishing was completed with Before and After Extra Fine Polish as with the Fine Polish.
The excess Restoration Balm was wiped from the stummel using an inside out athletic sock.
The pipe was then taken to the buffer where it received several coats of carnauba wax.
This was the fourth Peterson System 31 billiard that I have had the pleasure of restoring. As with the others the most trying task was the cleaning of the shank. The chamber within the shank is what makes these little pipes such amazing smokers but it does require a bit of extra work keeping it clean. Something that all previous owners had not been as serious about doing. The briar on this 31 is lovely and typical of Peterson pipes. The vulcanite polished very nicely and accents the briar very well. The nickel ferrule gives the pipe that classical Pterson look. The dimensions of the Peterson System 31 are as follows:
Length: 5.65 in./ 143.51 mm.
Weight: 1.20 oz./ 34.20 g.
Bowl Height: 1.70 in./ 43.18 mm.
Chamber Depth: 1.02 in./ 26.00 mm.
Chamber Diameter: 0.71 in./ 18.03 mm.
Outside Diameter: 1.27 in./ 32.26 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover and admitted Pete Geek.
Below are some photos of the finished Peterson System 31 Billiard.
I had never had a Peterson Donegal pipe prior to the arrival of this 106. I know, crazy right? I mean the Donegal Rocky has been a staple of the Peterson line since 1945. I love the look of the texture with it’s craggy appearance and contrast stained briar. I could not speak to the “feel in the hand” until I actually laid hands on this pipe. Let me say, it is very nice. My neglect of the line was not due to purposeful malice, just an unwillingness to spend as much money as the pipes were commanding. Also, the fact that rustication has changed dramatically over the years. I’ll get into that more in the “Background” but let’s just say the “pineapple” years were not pretty. This rustication is what I think of when I think Donegal Rocky.
This pipe is stamped Peterson’s (the top portion of this stamp is weak) over “DONEGAL” ROCKY. Offset to the left is 106 with MADE IN THE over REPUBLIC over OF IRELAND to the right side of the stamping area. The stem was a very tight fit upon arrival from Brooksville, Florida. Maybe the humidity of that southern state was the cause. Below are some photos of the pipe upon arrival. Well, not quite as “upon arrival”. When the pipe arrived the stem was very much stuck in the mortise. A visit to my freezer for an hour allowed me to extract the stem easily. Once warmed it was a very tight fit. I did not completely reinsert the stem into the shank for fear of damaging the pipe.
The pipe looked like it was generally in good shape. The stem was heavily oxidized and had a pattern to the oxidation that I found amusing. As if the previous smoker had antioxidant saliva. The stummel was dirty with about 50 years worth of grime. The tobacco chamber was well caked but not to excess, just definitely smoked. The rim had a fair amount of lava, again indicative of a well used and loved pipe. This looked like a nice straight forward restoration.
Background
I recently restored a Peterson Dunmore 606 Pot and wrote the following in that blog: “As much as I love the history of the Kapp and Peterson company and Peterson pipes, I will not get into that other than give you resources to read the history for yourself. I will delve into the Dunmore, or Dunmoor line of pipes at greater depth.
For a great history Mark Irwin and Gary Marlburg’s book is a must read for a Pete Geek.
Now to the stuff regarding this pipe: A Peterson Dunmore. I refer to Mark Irwin again here and his blog, Peterson Pipe Notes. I can wholeheartedly recommend the free at
I will include the text here in its entirety but recommend the link for the photos. This is used with permission of the author (thank you Mark).”
The above holds true for this blog as well except take out the “Dunmore” and add “Donegal Rock” in it’s place.
Once again I use Mark Irwin’s Peterson Pipe Notes as a primary source for this pipe. His Blog “148. The “Rocky” History of the Donegal Line” (https://petersonpipenotes.org/tag/peterson-donegal-rocky/) is a wonderful explanation of how the line originated and changed over the years. I include it here in it’s entirety, with permission of the author (personal email).
I recently acquired for study an amazing NOS (new/old stock) Donegal Rocky 01s with its box, sleeve and brochure. Hallmarked with a Celtic lower-case n for 1979, it’s a first-year release of this marvelous ‘short dutch’ bowl shape and convenient reason to take a look back at the long history of Peterson’s iconic “Donegal Rocky” line.
The “Donegal Rocky” (in quotation marks), released in 1945 or so, was Kapp & Peterson’s first rusticated line. Not that K&P hadn’t rusticated pipes previously, they just that they hadn’t devoted an entire line to rustication. And they were apparently proud of it, because they gave it a sterling mount along with a black finish and white-stamped P on the mouthpiece.
It was part of K&P’s “Product Line,” what I call gateway pipes and others might call an entry-level pipe, as you can see in this shape chart from the 1945 catalog. Like the Shamrock (European version) and “K,” it was originally a fishtail line.
For nearly thirty years, from 1947 until 1975, the line continued uninterrupted, black rusticated finish with fishtail mouthpiece and sterling band.
from the 1976 Associated Imports Point-of-Sale Brochure
Then in 1976, just a year out from their Centennial celebration, Peterson (in an expansive mood) pushed the Donegal up a notch, giving the line a P-Lip. The 1976 engraving doesn’t show it, but you can just glimpse a new, deeper rustication in the (still black) 1978 Associated Imports chart:
This rustication was done by a carver in Dublin, Paddy Larrigan told me this past June in Sallynoggin. The artisan did all of Peterson’s fantastic rustications from the period: the classic “Pebble Rustics,” the early Sherlock Holmes rustics, the Bond Street of Oxford Premier Systems, and the sterling-band P-Lip Donegals.
And that’s where this 1979 01s comes in handy, because we can see with much greater clarity the rustication as well as the details of a “Donegal Rocky” at its pinnacle of engineering and finish:
It’s worth remarking concerning the removable stinger. This spike-ended aluminum tube is easily removed, leaving the P-Lip mouthpiece strictly a graduated-bore regulation affair.
If I were more dedicated, I’d smoke this pipe a few dozen times with and without the stinger and give you a report on what purpose it serves. I wonder if the craftsmen at the factory installed the stinger to approximate the effect of the older bone tenon extensions routinely attached to Classic Range Dublin & London, Classic and Premier lines? With or without the stinger, the pipe smoker should enjoy the benefits of the “Sub-System,” which I talk about at length in The Peterson Pipe. As it is, I’ll leave that to someone else, and happily report their findings.*
Here’s the COM stamp, showing Peterson’s love of quotation marks (seen also in the “SPORTS” line) as well as a closer look at the stain and rustication technique:
Sometime between 1978 and 1980 the sterling band was dropped to a nickel band and the P-Lip abandoned in favor of the Donegal’s traditional fishtail, all of which may (or may not) indicate a lessening in the quality of the rustication.
Seen above from the 1981 Mark Twain brochure, the sterling band resurfaced, this time with the line’s first change in stain color to what some of us have in our rotations or remember: the contrast brown over black (seen in the dutch 339 hallmarked for ’81 below). The catalogs indicate some fluctuation from sterling to nickel bands on through the Late Republic era (1969-90) into the Dublin era (1991-2018), with the sterling being used (as happens so often with Peterson lines) in conjunction with a P-Lip in the 1997 catalog, but also in that year available with a nickel band and fishtail.
The dublin 120 seen above is from ’94, and as you can see, while the rustication technique is nearly identical to that of the ’81 dutch billiard, the stain color has changed for a third time to burgundy-over-black, which seems to have been the standard during most of the early Dublin era.
Sometime near the beginning of this century the Donegal was down-graded again to its original “Product” or gateway status by a nickel band and fishtail mouthpiece as seen in this B7, and while the stain remains the same, it looks less craggy:
Things would grow steadily worse in the following years, however, as the gawdawful pineapple rustication took hold, so that by around 2010 the Donegal was reduced to the etchings seen on this B39:
With the return of in-house rustication earlier this year, things are looking up for the Donegal, at least just a little, as you can see in this current 80s:
The finish and the rustication are, so nearly as I can tell, identical with that used on current rusticated SH pipes, so that’s something, right? I don’t think I’d call it a Rocky anymore, but at least it still has a vulcanite mouthpiece, a plus.
As for the future of the line—or the name—I couldn’t hazard any guesses. In the ideal Peterson of my imagination, the line would assume the craggiest crags, sharp textures and brilliant obsidian finish of the last batch of Rosslare Rusticated pipes, along with—of course—a vulcanite P-Lip. In the meantime, just to have it around, as one of the bedrock Peterson lines for almost 75 years, will do.
According to Mark’s well documented history of the Donegal Rocky line this pipe shouldn’t have the contrast stained black/brown that I see as that didn’t come about until the later 1970s. I emailed Mark asking him what he thought about my restoration of this pipe and at publication I have not heard back. I assume he and his wife are shipping out the most recent Peterson Pipe Notes pipe stand, so I understand his busy schedule. That is if my interpretation of the worn silver hallmark is correct.
The silver hallmark that I see on this pipe is a lowercase e as seen in this photograph:
Now an argument could be made for either an e, c or o. Respective dates would be 1972, 1970 and 1980. The o would move the pipe closer to the black/brown stain age range of 1981 as mentioned in the Mark Irwin blog above.
The Restoration
The restoration began as normal with a clean denim piece. I then started work on the stem.
The first job was to buff the stem with 0000 steel wool to remove the hard shiny oxidized coating.
This allowed the OxyClean solution easier and faster action at softening the oxidation. The stem was left to soak in the Oxy for an hour or so.
Next came the reaming and the reaming tools were gathered.
The lion’s share of the work was done with the PipNet reaming tool with its #2 and #3 blades. This cake was very hard and dry and the tobacco chamber size was a very tight fit for the #3 blade so scraping was required to allow easier reaming with the PipNet.
Eventually the chamber looked mostly cake free.
I was pretty sure that I should be receiving some sort of tax subsidy for the carbon sequestration I would be responsible for by sending this pile to a landfill.
Upon sanding the tobacco chamber I discovered that the cake had not protected the chamber as well as I would have thought that the previous owner was a puffing madman. The inside of the chamber had light spiderwebs due to heat damage both to the left and right front. Further sanding made it so that I could not feel anh roughness but I could still see the spiderwebs. A quick message and photos were sent to Steve Laug for a bit of advice. I wasn’t sure that this would need a waterglass, J.B.Weld of just a bowl coating. Steve got back to me quickly and said a bowl coating would probably be sufficient.
I proceeded to the scrubbing. This was done with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a medium toothbrush.
After the exterior was scrubbed I used a bit of Dawn dish soap with a nylon shank brush to see how bad the airway of the shank was. It was pretty bad. The stummel was thoroughly rinsed inside and out with warm water and dried with a cotton hand towel.
Back at the workbench I poured 3-4 ml of 95% ethyl alcohol into the bowl and allowed it to flow into the shank. I scrubbed with a nylon shank brush and the alcohol then poured the alcohol into a medicine cup. Yeah, there may be North American megafauna stuck in that tar pit.
I scraped the airway with a dental scraper to remove as much of the tar as I could get out. Repeated alcohol and shank brush scrubbings yielded more dissolved tar.
Eventually the airway was cleaned and the smell of old smoking residue disappeared.
The stem was retrieved from the Oxy and I began cleaning it with SoftScrub on make-up pads.
It eventually was rid of the majority of the oxidation at least from the button. Which was the area I needed to work on. The button area was filed and sanded with a 320 grit sanding sponge.
I moved on to a 400 and 600 grit sponge to further smooth the stem surface. There would need to be some filling of dents with black cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue).
The CA was applied then spritzed with a CA drying accelerator. The quickly cured CA was then filed and sanded with the above mentioned sanding sponges.
This was repeated until the fills were smooth.
With the button reshaped and filled I cleaned the airwair of the stem. The previous owner did apparently use a pipe cleaner through the stem as it was not nearly as fouled as the shank had been.
Next came the polishing of the silver. I used a Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloth on the silver band. I love the smell of this product and it works well too.
The silver had a respectable shine but there appeared to be a film of surface flaw to the finish. I figured that I would spend more time with that later.
There was little to do with the stummel other than to clean it thoroughly. I used a baby toothbrush to work Before and After Restoration Balm into all of the craggy texture and let the balm work it’s magic.
I prepped the shank by wrapping it in painters tape to avoid stray sanding. The stem was sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 1000-3500. In between each sponge I dabbed a finger tip’s worth of mineral oil onto the stem and rubber it in. I then wiped the stem with a dry paper towel.
After about 20-30 minutes the Restoration Balm was wiped from the stummel using an inside out athletic sock.
I wasn’t sure which wax to use on such a wonderfully rough textured stummel. I opted to use the Decatur Pipe Shield No-Buff Wax. I cleaned the Restoration Balm from the baby toothbrush with 95% ethyl alcohol. I used the baby toothbrush to work the Decatur wax into the crags and let it dry for the recommended 10-20 minutes, as per the instructions on the label.
I then took the stummel to the buffer and swapped out the carnauba waxing wheel for a clean flannel wheel. I used the clean wheel to buff the N0-Buff wax. Yeah, I know…
Now to review: The stem before.
The stem after I had worked on it. There remained a serious amount of discoloration on the tenon end. This stubborn stuff required a less chemically subtle approach.
I went with a dip into the Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer. A pipe cleaner was inserted into the button end of the stem to suspend it from the jar top. I allowed the stem to soak in the solution for 2 hours.
After the 2 hours I removed the stem from the solution and let the excess solution drip back into the jar.
With the stem all drip dried, well not really dry, I wiped the stem with a coarse shop rag and ran several pipe cleaners through the airway. I then micro-meshed the stem with a series of 4000-12000 pads. Between each pad I applied a small drop of Obsidian Oil to the stem, rubbed it in with my finger tip and wiped the stem with a dry paper towel. I failed to photograph the micro-meshing. Darn old people.
The stem looked much better. If you can’t wait to see it, feel free to jump down a bit.
The spider webbing heat damage still needed to be addressed. I retrieved the maple syrup and applied a big drop to my finger tip. I rubbed this onto the surface of the tobacco chamber.
I then opened up a capsule of activated charcoal. I dumped the charcoal into the chamber, placed my palm over the rim and egan shaking the stummel distributing the charcoal powder and covering the sticky syrup. You can see the charcoal also left a very symmetrical spot on my palm. Having forgotten to plug the airway with a pipe cleaner I also got a nice coating of carbon powder all over the shank’s airway. Yay, more shank cleaning.
Below are the photos of the bowl coating.
I would say that my first Peterson Donegal Rocky restoration was a success. I think it turned out very well. I like the craggy appearance and feel of the pipe. The shape is a favorite of mine.The brown and black contrast stain was left intact and I think it still works . I was quite happy with the oxidation removal from the stem and the black vulcanite polished up nicely. The silverband looks as if it has experienced some trouble and I cannot get it to look bright and well, silver all around. I am sure this will be a great smoking pipe but will have to wait a couple of days for the coat coating to thoroughly dry. The dimensions of the Peterson Donegal Rocky 106 Billiard are as follows:
Length: 5.95 in./ 151.13 mm.
Weight: 1.54 oz./ 43.60 g.
Bowl Height: 1.96 in./ 49.78 mm.
Chamber Depth: 1.70 in./ 43.18 mm.
Chamber Diameter: 0.83 in./ 20.8 mm.
Outside Diameter: 1.58 in./ 40.13 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.
Below are some photos of the finished Peterson Donegal Rocky 106 Billiard.
Some of the above “finished” photos were taken slightly out of sequence. Example: the bowl coating was added after some of the shots.
In the last restoration I discussed my Peterson Pipe Acquisition Disorder had ended its remission. Well, I neglected to say how severe the return to activity the PPAD had actually become. Please do not grieve for me. Your sympathy would be far better applied to another, for this is a disorder which I have brought upon myself.
This restoration deals with a lovely Peterson meerschaum pipe which came to me as part of an estate lot. I spied this Pete meer in the photos of the lot and couldn’t believe what I was seeing. It was as if the Peterson was hiding amongst the other old pipes. Apparently
it’s camouflage was good because there were only 6 other bidders. A few days later the goal and gem of the entire lot arrived here in the wilds of southeast Nebraska. Below are some photos showing the Peterson meerschaum prior to any work being done.
I had only worked on a handful of old meerschaum pipes. I figured that I should probably read a couple of Steve Laug’s rebornpipes.com concerning meerschaum. I have found that there are two main ways to learn; 1, from your own mistakes and 2, from listening to the wisdom of others who have made mistakes. One of these is free and painless, the other, not so much. I did know that I would be using far more soap and water than alcohol on this restoration. I also knew that I wanted to keep the P logo on the stem at all costs since that was the only indication of this pipe’s maker.
Background
In the last restoration I did a Peterson Dunmore 606 Pot (linked for those who are interested). I included a few links concerning the history of Peterson pipes. I will include those here also. “For a great history Mark Irwin and Gary Marlburg’s book is a must read for a Pete Geek.
For the history of Peterson Meerschaums I will mainly be citing Irwin and Marlberg’s The Peterson Pipe book. Peterson has a long history of meerschaum pipe making dating back to the 1870s (Irwin, 2018 p. 15). At the time when Charles Peterson began working for the Kapp brothers in Dublin, meerschaum was the old traditional material while briar was a new innovation destined to become more popular in the next century. It was with briar that Charles Peterson created his original patents for the reservoir in 1890 and for the graduated-bore mouthpiece with what we call the “Patent-Lip” (P-Lip) today, in 1894. 1893 was the year that Charles Peterson and Henry Kapp bought out the shares of Christian Kapp of the Family business, which the brothers had run together. “Christian was evidently not happy with this arrangement and disliked Dublin. He trained to become a doctor, and on 12 June 1893 he sold his share of the business to his brother and Charles Peterson” (Irwin, 2018 p. 48). The Kapp & Peterson company was born and the Peterson System has continued for over 130 years.
Now obviously the lovely Peterson meerschaum pipe in hand is not something made at the turn of the century. According to Irwin and Malmberg, “ In 1968, Peterson returned to making block-meerschaum pipes after forty years. They had made block meerschaums in all Patent Systems and many Classic Range shapes from 1896 until about 1929. The scarcity and rising cost of amber, fragility of meerschaum and popularity of briar all contributed to the end of meerschaum production.” (Irwin, 2018 p. 158). The authors go on to state that, “These Republic-era meerschaums were first made in partnership with Manxman Pipes, Ltd., on the Isle of Man, a company Peterson bought outright in the early 1970’s (Irwin, 2018 p. 158).
I am not quite sure how the purchase of Manxman pipes worked. Manxman was an apparent subsidiary of Laxey Pipes Ltd. According to pipedia.org:
“Laxey Pipes Ltd. resided in a historical 19th century four-storey Man stone building at The Quay, Old Laxey, Isle of Man, which thankfully has been preserved.
The company specialised in the production of meerschaum pipes using the Meerschaum mined by the Tanganyika Meerschaum Corporation in the Amboseli basin in Tanganyika (since 1964 part of the United Republic of Tanzania).
Please note: you may often find names like “Manx Pipes Ltd.”, “Man Pipe Co.” and others more, but there is no indication of another Isle of Man pipe producer other than Laxey Pipe Ltd. at any time!
Laxey Pipes Ltd. marketed own brands like “Manxpipe”, “Manxman”, “Manxland” e.c. Names like “John Bull”, “White Knight” (unwaxed), “Domino” (black, or lined) indicated some shapes / colours of Laxey’s own series. The stems either showed the astronomical sign for “male” or “man” (circle + arrow), or the crest of the Isle of Man, the 3-legged X in a circle. Manxpipes and Laxey’s other brands were available through pipe retailers in general, but also were sold (mainly) to tourists through their own shop in Laxey.
Furthermore Laxey Pipes Ltd. manufactured the meer bowls for Peterson, Barling, Nørding and others from the later 1960’s until 2001. Man Pipe e.g. was a brand distibuted by Comoy’s. The bowls usually showed no nomenclature indicating the orderer. “Genuine Block Meerschaum” was engraved frequently. Often, just the stems were different, while bowls were the same.
Supply of meerschaum from East Africa run out (Kenya / Tanzania exhausted, Somalia inaccessible), and thus the last Laxey meers were supplied to trade in May, 2001. Laxey Pipes Ltd. tried to survive continuing with briar pipes – mainly in the Danish style -, but to no success. It closed down business in July, 2002.”
Tracing the 406 shape through the pipe charts from the early 1900’s to 1984 was interesting and made me realize it is time to visit the eye doctor again and get a new prescription for glasses. The first iterations of the prince shape are found in the 1947 shape chart. There are 4 prince varieties: “Sports” 4 Large Prince, 407 Prince (straight stem), 407 Prince semi-bent and the 406 Large Prince. The next catalog occurrence is in 1965. Here the Peterson 406 is a prince with a slight bend. The shape matches the pipe in hand very well. The next occurrence is in the Peterson-Glass 1978-79 catalog. This catalog shows the full range of Peterson’s meerschaum offerings and here the 406 prince has a slight bend. The last catalog tracing the prince is the shape charts from the 1983 issue. Here the 406 is shown with a slight bent stem and labeled as “406. Large Prince” (Irwin, 2018 p. 171). The 406 also has an asterisk denoting that this shape is also “Available in Meerschaum”. The 407 reappears as a prince with a straight stem and is not available in meerschaum.
The Peterson-Glass 1978-79 catalog also lists and discusses the available meerschaum finishes. These included: Golden Supreme, Tawny De Luxe, Golden Princess, Yellow Aboriginal, Red/Black Premier and Kapmeer. Now this may be taken with a grain of salt but I believe this to be a 406 Large Prince from the 1983 catalog but with the red staining of the Peterson-Glass 1978-79 catalog. Either way, I think this pipe is a late 1970s-early 1980s product.
The Restoration
In typical “me” fashion I began with a cleanish piece of denim for the work surface. I think I may need to visit the local thrift stores and see if I can pick up a couple pairs of jeans to turn into new denim pieces. The laundry guy here at this house has much to be desired when it comes to stain removal.
I removed the stem and gave it a light buffing with 0000 steel wool prior to a dunk in the OxyClean solution.
I figured I would start with an hour in the Oxy then reassess if more time would be needed.
The reaming was done with only scrapers. I heeded the warnings of others who said to avoid reaming tools that would apply torque to the meerschaum.
The previous owner either hadn’t smoked this darling very much or had taken care not to allow the build-up of a cake. Well done, unknown guy or gal (keeping it inclusive).
After sanding the tobacco chamber with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel I finish sanded it with 320 sandpaper and my finger. Next stop was the sink. Here I scrubbed the stummel with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a medium stiff toothbrush. The lather turned bright pink indicating that I was correct in identifying this pipe as a Red Premier from the Peterson-Glass 1978-79 catalog. The soap was rinsed with warm water. I also scrubbed the airway with a nylon shank brush and Dawn dish soap. This produced slightly brown tinted lather and was also rinsed with warm water. The stummel was then dried with a cotton hand towel.
Back at the workbench the stummel’s striped colors were more pronounced. I wasn’t sure what to do about that. Do I try to stain it with a red Fiebing’s Leather Dye or leave it alone and see how it looks after the molten beeswax? I opted for the latter.
I ran a bristle pipe cleaner dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol through the airway to judge how effective my scrubbing had been. It came out pretty clean. I proceeded to do this a few more times until no color was seen.
To make sure there was no wax or excess dye remaining on the stummel exterior I used a medium toothbrush dipped in ethyl alcohol to scrub the stummel. You can see that a little bit more red dye came off into the alcohol in the medicine cup and onto the toothbrush.
There were small brown clouds of oxidized rubber around the stem in the Oxy solution. I assumed this to mean it was working at loosening up that darn oxidation.
Upon removing the stem from the solution I wiped it vigorously with a dry cotton make-up pad. A significant amount of oxidized rubber came off on the pad.
I then proceeded to use several more pads with SoftScrub to attempt to rid the stem of the oxidized material. I was glad to see a general lightening of the pads but the oxidation was stubborn and remained difficult.
I then tried using a piece of a Magic Eraser with SoftScrub. I ended up taking the stem to the sink where I could rinse the Magic Eraser with water more effectively.
Once again, I forgot to take any photos of the sanding and micro-meshing of the stem. I get focussed or “in the zone” and kind of lose myself sometimes. Sorry, if it’s any consolation you can see the brown oxidized rubber dust from wiping the dust from the sanding sponges on the denim.
I cleaned the airway of the stem and found it was also fairly clean. Alcohol dipped bristle pipe cleaners were the weapon of choice, here. The stem then received a coat of mineral oil.
I checked the photos to make sure that the P logo was painted white. I didn’t want to make the same mistake that I did on the last restoration and have to go back and repaint the logo. If you enjoy learning from the mistakes of others check out the Peterson Dunhill 606 restoration. The logo area was cleaned and de-oiled with a cotton swab and 95% ethyl alcohol.
I used the plastic tube of a cotton swab to form a plastic scraper. This was done with a lighter and pressed flat with a knife blade. It was then trimmed to shape with scissors. The white acrylic model paint was applied and allowed to mostly dry.
The paint was then scraped off using the freshly made plastic scraper.
I was ready to apply the beeswax. I think this is what I was planning out in my head when I failed to photograph the stem sanding. I wanted a fairly easy to apply and cleanup method to apply a layer of beeswax to the stummel. I came up with the following plan:
Melt the beeswax in a glass canning jar in a pan of boiling water.
Place the stummel in an empty metal snuff can. This is to catch the wax drippings.
While the wax is melting, heat the stummel with a heat gun.
Move the wax close to the stummel and paint the wax onto the surface of the stummel.
Use the heat gun to evenly melt/distribute the wax over the entire stummel.
Absorb the excess liquid wax onto a paper towel.
That sounded like a good plan based only on having done this two other times. And those were a couple of years ago.
The double boiler wax melter.
The empty snuff can wax catcher.
The heat gun
It’s “Go time”.
The nearly constant heating and making sure everything was evenly coated.
Absorbing the wax. Hot, hot, hot.
Ahhh, that’s better. Using a cotton glove to absorb the liquid wax was much more comfortable than the paper towel.
Here is what the pipe looked like back at the workbench.
All that remained was to give the stem a couple of coats of carnauba wax with the buffer and take some “finished” photos.
Overall this Peterson Meerschaum 406 Prince turned out quite nicely. I admit to not being totally comfortable working with meerschaum. At least not as comfortable as I am with briar. Nevertheless, I think the pipe cleaned-up well. I love the shape of the Peterson 406, the slightly bent stem gives it a graceful elegance not quite typical for the normal Peterson aesthetic of a more heavy shank. With it’s wide bowl it should make a grand English blend smoker. The stem polished up pretty well except for the tenon end which still retained some discoloration from oxidation. I feared being too aggressive here and risking the loss of the stem logo. The red stain of the meerschaum is attractive with the black rim and the stripe around the middle giving character. The dimensions of the Peterson Meerschaum 406 Prince are:
Length: 6.58 in./ 167.13 mm.
Weight: 1.63 oz./ 45.75 g.
Bowl Height: 1.46 in./ 37.08 mm.
Chamber Depth: 1.17 in./ 29.72 mm.
Chamber Diameter: 0.78 in./ 19.81mm.
Outside Diameter: 1.65 in./ 41.91 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.
Below are some photos of the finished Peterson Meerschaum 406 Prince.
Addendum: Additional work done on stem. I was not happy with my work on removing the oxidation from this stem. I mentioned that I did not want to risk losing the stem logo with a more aggressive deoxidation treatment using Before and After Deoxidation Solution. Mark Hoover, of Before and After products, reached out to me via Facebook personal messaging and stated, “I have never had loss so I am a bit perplexed. You should not have any loss as there is no abrasive. If the stamp is faint or heavily oxidized it was likely not strong under the oxidation so when you clean it it may just seem that way. I promise you will not have this issue with a deep stamp like the Peterson you just did.” I have had the loss of a stamp using the Before and After Deoxidizing solution when the stamp was weak. The Key point to Mark Hoover’s statement is “not strong under the oxidation”. With a weak stamp, removal of oxidized material can remove a faint stamp as the stamp has been oxidized as well.
With Mark’s assurance giving me more confidence, I returned the Peterson Prince to the workbench. I wiped the stem of 95% ethyl alcohol on a make-up pad to remove the carnauba wax. I then placed a pipe cleaner into the button as a hanger. The stem was then suspended into the Before and After Extra Strength Deoxidizer solution.
I allowed the solution to work on the stem for 90 minutes. After 90 minutes I allowed the stem to drip excess solution back into the jar.
After dripping I wiped the remaining solution from the stem with a coarse cotton shop rag. I ran several pipe cleaners through the airway to remove any solution from the airway as well. The oxidation was greatly reduced but there was still some discoloration. I returned the stem to the workbench and used SoftScrub on a make-up pad. SoftScrub is an abrasive and will wear away a stamp though it is far less abrasive than sanding.
The stem was micro-meshed using the 4000-12000 micro-mesh pads. I then polished the stem with the Before and After Fine Polish followed by the Extra Fine Polish. The stem logo was again repainted as earlier. The stem was finally given a couple of coats of carnauba wax at the buffer.
The below photos are of the Peterson meerschaum 406 Prince after readdressing the oxidation.
My Peterson Pipe Acquisition Disorder (PPAD) has come out of remittance and I have experienced an attack. Then again it was fully expected. I can’t run around with a name like NebraskaPeteGeek and not have full blown PPAD at least semiannually. The lovely 606 in the photo above did not arrive like that. It was spotted at an auction on eBay a couple of weeks ago. I couldn’t believe my eyes at first. A Peterson Dunmore with a shape other than the 300 System shape was very interesting. I’ll get more into that in the “Background” below.
This pipe has Peterson’s over “DUNMORE” on the left, the Peterson P on the stem and MADE IN THE over REPUBLIC over OF IRELAND and 606 on the right. There is also a beaded edge at the shank end, a characteristic of the Dunmore line. When the pipe arrived it appeared in the photos below.
Background
As much as I love the history of the Kapp and Peterson company and Peterson pipes, I will not get into that other than give you resources to read the history for yourself. I will delve into the Dunmore, or Dunmoor line of pipes at greater depth.
For a great history Mark Irwin and Gary Marlburg’s book is a must read for a Pete Geek.
Now to the stuff regarding this pipe: A Peterson Dunmore. I refer to Mark Irwin again here and his blog, Peterson Pipe Notes. I can wholeheartedly recommend the free at
I will include the text here in it’s entirety but recommend the link for the photos. This is used with permission of the author (thank you Mark).
“226. Documenting the Dunmore System and Classic Lines
Milos “Mike” Bera at PipesPens&More.com on eBay recently wrote me to say that he’d run across two examples of a Peterson Dunmore Classic line he’d never seen before—a higher-grade line with a briar-in-brass sandwich band. As I thought they were not only gorgeous but undocumented, the time seemed right to take a look back at the history of the Dunmore System and Classic lines.
I’ve been a fan of the Dunmore lines since I first saw them through the case back in the late 1980s and had to have one, a fat-bottom 72 (the 302 equivalent). Like everyone else, I thought there was some kind of mistake—“Where’s the nickel mount?” I remember asking. But the Dunmore System set out to be something a little different, yet within the classic Kapp & Peterson house style.
The line originated in collaboration with Iwan Reis in 1971. How it came about is anyone’s guess at this point. Chuck Levi, the man who more than any other was responsible for bringing the great Danish artisan pipes to the US, was working with the creative minds at K&P to bring something new to the IRC catalog, and this was one of about a dozen K&P lines that debuted as exclusives in the Iwan Reis catalogs of that era.
The concept was to modernize the System pipe by removing what was perceived as the old-fashioned nickel mount. And old-fashioned it was—if you look at pipe catalogs from the 1940s on through most of the rest of the 20th century, nickel ferrules and even bands were almost non-existent. K&P was virtually the only hold out, using sterling bands on the Sterling Silver Classic line and on the Premier & De Luxe Systems. A bead was then carved around the stummel at the mortise end. As you can see from the IRC detail, sometimes the contrast stain made the beads stand out, and sometimes not.
But there were two more ingredients to the original Dunmore aesthetic which can be seen the photo below. Paddy Larrigan, K&P’s master-craftsman, was always striving to push the envelope in pipe engineering, and one of the things he dearly loved was a pipe that would sit, so he shaved off the bottom of the shank to allow the Dunmore System to sit on its shank and button, which gives it its uniqueness in the catalog. The downside of this is that I am not convinced that all the Dunmore reservoirs, being slightly smaller than the traditional System, are quite as effective.
The third distinguishing mark of the original Dunmore lines is the stem. Both the System and Classic versions utilized the wide-shoulder “Comfort Lip,” with a painted gold P on the stem. This doubtless helps the System sit as well as giving it a more muscular visual balance, strength being a long-standing concept in the design language of the company. While it gives the illusion of being an army “push” mount, of course it isn’t, but is a traditional tenon-mortise or “navy mount” as the old hands at K&P used to call it.
The 1971 IRC catalog description reads, “dunmoor briar IRC ’71 modern system without sterling band, natural $12.00.” This intentional misspelling of “Dunmore” would persist through subsequent IRC catalogs, the copy-writer evidently under the spell of e.e. cummings and favoring an English flavor to his pipes. The name, like almost all K&P line names, is taken from the Irish landscape, in this case the town in County Galway famous for Dunmore Castle.
The 1975 Orange Catalog shows the initial Dunmore System release was in only seven shapes:
This was later expanded to include both the original bent dublin shape 5 (75) and XL5 (XL75) and the replacement calabash shape 5 and XL5. The remaining “new” System shapes were also added to the Dunmore lineup, the 01 becoming the Dunmore 73, the 02 the 70 and the 03 the 76. The fact that the 304 and 306 “setters” introduced in 1984 never entered the Dunmore System lineup adds the probability that the line had been discontinued by then.
The smooth Dunmore System features a light brown natural finish, sometimes occurring with broad flames, as can be seen in these photos of an unsmoked 77 System:
The rusticated version of the Dunmore System seems to have been finished in at least two techniques or versions. Neither is as deep as the Pebble Rustic finish but they still feel very therapeutic under thumb and finger.
Even when we were beginning our research on the Peterson book (due out in reprint later this year), most Pete fans had no idea there was also a Dunmore Classics line featuring the same beading at the mortise and wide Comfort Lip mouthpiece. Documentary proof was found in the rare 1978-79 Peterson-Glass catalog:
The Dunmore System and Classic Lines from the 1978-79 Peterson-Glass Catalog
I don’t know whether the Dunmore Classics was a short-lived line or whether it was primarily available in Europe, but it almost never appears on the estate market here in the US. As you can see from the catalog and the 406 pictured above, the same aesthetic was followed for the Classic line—light brown, nearly natural, higher-quality smooth bowl (or dark rustic) and faux army mount with gold-painted P, wide saddle and P-Lip stem. Only the Dunmore System, as far as I have been able to document, had the flattened stummel allowing it to set.
I have always hoped to run across an unsmoked rustic Dunmore System with the dark contrast stains seen in the Peterson-Glass catalog. I wonder if this finish actually went into production, because the ones I’ve seen all look more-or-less like the XL75 shown above.
The original Dunmore lines seemed to have been dropped at about the time the company went through its worst redundancy in 1984, as there are no more traces of it in the company’s ephemera from 1983 on. I remember the proprietor of my B&M, Cavalier Pipe & Tobacco in Barracks Road Shopping Center in Charlottesville, telling me when I bought my shape 73 Dunmore that the line was out of production, so I’d better get it if I wanted it (don’t you miss high-pressure salesmen?)—and that would have been 1986 or ’87.
The second iteration of the Dunmore Classics line is that recently discovered by Mike at PipesPens&More on eBay. I would tentatively date it to c. 1995, well after K&P had gotten on its feet again and was doing some new and fascinating things. It seems to belong with three other briar adornment lines from the same period: Paddy Larrigan’s Briar in a Circle Systems and the Galway and Kapp-Royal higher-grade lines with their wonderful inset briar rings.
Mike’s Dunmore Classics line is certainly on a par, from the two examples he’s found, with the Galway and Kapp Royal briars and maybe better, although probably not as fine as the Briar in a Circle Systems. Take a closer look at this 80S, which Mike sold within 24 hours of posting it on eBay:
The last Dunmore Classics line made a brief appearance in the Dublin era’s second decade, somewhere in the 2000s, probably around 2005 or so. Jim Lilley’s old blog site made a reference to them, and I remember seeing them for sale at internet shops.
I know it appeared well before I got interested in writing the Peterson book, because I don’t have any internet images of it in my files. These photos of the B5 and B11 give a good idea of what the line was like, although it appears to have begun in a higher range and then slipped to a lower.
Updated Identification Guide
Dunmore (1971–c. 1984; c. 1995; 2006–2010) Appeared in 1971 as Iwan Reis & Co. exclusive line “Dunmoor,” Premier-grade unmounted System in smooth natural or rustic dark chocolate contrast in all shapes, with beading at the shank, faux wide-saddle P-Lip with gold paint P. Documented in Associated Imports catalog from 1973. Classic Range line from 1978 with same faux army mount and finishes. Second scarce Classic Range line, c. 1990, higher-grade smooth bowl with brass sandwich and briar band, P-Lip. A third Classic Range line, 2006–2010, mid-grade, featured standard and some B shapes, with beading around bowl instead of shank-face, for European market.
With that information at hand I can date this Peterson Dunmore with a good deal of certainty. The 606 shape is of the “Classic Range line” thus from 1978-1984. A mere 6 year window.
The Restoration
There is a clean denim piece for a work surface so, it must be time to start another project.
The stem was the part of this that needed the most attention and it went into the OxyClean solution first.
The reaming tools were gathered. The PipNet with its #2 and #3 blades for this nice wide chamber would see some action.
The reaming started easy with the PipNet and the #2 blades. The the #3 blades were a tight fit and required some scraping with both scrapers to allow it access to the tobacco chamber. Eventually the chamber was reamed and sanded with 220 sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel. I finish sanded with 320 sandpaper and my finger. The chamber looked great with no signs of any damage.
The chamber may look good but the rim was lava encrusted.
Saliva and a sharp knife were used to scrape the rim.
The stummel then made its way to the sink for a scrub with undiluted Murphy Oil Soap and a medium bristle toothbrush. The soap was rinsed with warm water and the stummel dried with a cotton hand towel.
Returning to the workbench the stummel looked much better.
A quick wipe with a make-up pad dipped in 95% ethyl alcohol to make sure there was no remaining wax or finish remaining was done. This produced some color on the pad but I think it was just dirty old wax and maybe a bit of stain.
I did see a few pits that would require filling with cyanoacrylate (CA, super glue) and briar dust.
I turned my attention to cleaning out the airway within the shank. I used a couple of alcohol soaked cotton swabs to soften the old smoking residues in the airway. I then poured 3-4 ml of 95% ethyl alcohol into the bowl and allowed it to flow into but not through the shank. I used a nylon shank brush to scrub the airway with the alcohol. The alcohol was poured into a medicine cup to assess the dirtiness of the airway. Not bad but still quite a bit of cleaning and repealed alcohol scrubs. Oh yeah, folded bristle pipe cleaners were also used to scrub with. Numerous more cotton swabs, folded pipe cleaners and a few ml of ethyl alcohol later the shank was clean.
The stem came out of the Oxy bath and was vigorously wiped with a dry make-up pad. The pad was heavily stained with oxidized rubber.
Several more make-up pads with SoftScrub were used to try to remove the stubborn oxidation. Adjectives other than “stubborn” may have been uttered during this process.
I oiled the stem and left it for 24 hours. The next day I returned and used SoftScrub again to remove the oil. Well, more than oil came off.
Back into the Oxy bath went the stem. It was there for another hour.
I turned my attention to filling the pits. A small drop of brown CA was applied to the pit and a small scoop of briar dust was then placed onto the wet CA and pressed into the pit. The excess briar dust was brushed off with a bristle pipe cleaner. This was repeated for each of the fills. The CA and briar dust set-up very quickly and were filed with a flat needle file then sanded with a 400 grit sanding sponge.
The stummel was then sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 600-3500 grit, in sequence. Between each sponge the stummel was wiped with an alcohol moistened make-up pad.
The stummel was then worked with a series of micro-mesh pads 4000-12000 grit. Between each pad the stummel was wiped with a make-up pad dipped in alcohol.
The stummel then was coated with Before and After Restoration Balm and allowed to sit for 30 minutes.
The stem was retrieved from the Oxy bath for the second time. And wiped with a dry make-up pad. This time much less oxidized rubber came off of the stem.
The stem was sanded with a series of sanding sponges from 600-3500. Between sponges I would rub a small drop of mineral oil onto the stem and wipe it with a paper towel. This was followed by the micro-mesh pads 4000-12000. Between the pads I applied a drop of Obsidian Oil to the stem, rubbed it onto the surface and wiped with a paper towel. I failed to photograph any of the stem sanding and micro-meshing, sorry if you were looking forward to that.
The stummel was wiped clean of any remaining Restoration Balm with an inside out athletic sock.
I debated showing this next step as it was a mistake. Since I am rather adept at making mistakes I thought I’d show you what not to do. I thought the Peterson P logo on the stem should be repainted in white. I cleaned the surface with a cotton swab and 95% ethyl alcohol and gave it a coating of white acrylic model paint.
While the paint was still slightly pliable I scraped the high spots of the logo with a plastic card and wiped away any paint from around the logo.
I then proceeded to wax the pipe with the buffer and carnauba wax and do the “finished” photographs. It wasn’t until I was refreshing my memory and writing the background section that I came across the “P-Lip with gold paint P” from Mark Irwin’s Peterson Pipe Notes dunmore description. Well the white P just wouldn’t do. Back to the workbench, I recleaned the white acrylic paint from the logo using the ethyl alcohol and a cotton swab.
I then made an applicator for the gold Rub’nBuff from the plastic tube of a cotton swab. I cut one end from the tube, heated the plastic with a lighter and flattened the hot plastic with a knife blade.
I used scissors to cut the flattened plastic into a micro-spatula type device.
The gold Rub’nBuff was applied with the plastic tool. The excess gold was wiped onto the denim. I let the gold Rub’nBuff dry for a minute of two and used the tool to scrape away the excess gold from around the logo. The area was then hand buffed with a soft cotton cloth.
There, that’s more like it and correct. Living and learning. I hope my mistakes help you to avoid making some of your own.
The pipe went back to the buffer for a touch-up re-waxing with carnauba. Then back to taking the real finished photos.
Overall this Peterson Dunmore 606 Pot turned out pretty well. I have to admit to not being happy with the finish of the stem. The oxidation was deep into the vulcanite. Even after the Oxy baths, SoftScrub and sanding it can still be seen. Given under normal light conditions the stem looks fine, bright light makes the oxidation stand out. I did not want to use the Before and After Deoxidizing solution for fear of losing the logo. That may be the only way to address the issue short of sanding the entire stem and losing the logo to that. This will be a personal pipe for the time being. Unless someone really wants it and makes me an offer I can’t refuse. The briar of the 606 is lovely, showing off Peterson’s Premier-grade and I was able to keep the original stain without altering it. Of the areas that I filled I think only one was a flaw in the briar and the others were dings from use. The very nature of the Dunmore non-System shape is a rarity and a pretty rarity at that. The dimensions of the Peterson Dunmore 606 Pot are:
Length: 6.21 in./ 157.73 mm.
Weight: 1.44 oz./ 41.00 g.
Bowl Height: 1.65 in./ 41.91 mm.
Chamber Depth: 1.36 in./ 34.54 mm.
Chamber Diameter: 0.82 in./ 20.83 mm.
Outside Diameter: 1.58 in./ 40.13 mm.
I do hope that you have found something here useful to your own pipe care, maintenance or restorations. If you like this sort of thing, please click the like and subscribe buttons. Thank you for reading the ramblings of an old pipe lover.
Below are some photos of the finished Peterson Dunmore 606 Pot.
Oops, there is a finished photo showing the white logo. Darn lazy, I say.
There’s another white logo. Why do you keep reading stuff by this guy?